Question: What type of wood is Restore-A-Deck used on?
Answer: Restore-A-Deck is safe for all wood types including pressure-treated pine, cedar, redwood, ipe, and mahogany.
Question: What is in Restore-A-Deck?
Answer: The majority ingredient in the cleaning formula is sodium percarbonate. This is the one recommended by the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association. There is also a blend of proprietary detergents that makes the cleaner work faster and more powerful than just straight sodium percarbonate cleaners. The Restore-A-Deck brightener is a blend of mild acids that is much less harsh on your wood than the straight oxalic acid. These formulas are the exact formulas we use professionally to clean and maintain decks every day. There is nothing comparable on the homeowner market.
Question: Is your product just for wood that has already been stained? My deck was just built.
Answer: Restore-A-Deck can be used for maintenance cleaning, mild stripping, or to prepare new wood for sealer. For general cleaning, you would not allow the product to sit (dwell) for a long time before rinsing. For a more aggressive action, you would let the product dwell for a longer period.
Question: How does the cost of your product compare to what I can get at my home center?
Answer: Here is the best part, it’s not only of much higher quality and more effective but in terms of time invested and harshness it’s cheaper. By focusing on product development, we are able to offer a product that works effectively and does not cause the long term damage of bleach and soap cleaners. We are not shy in saying our product is the best out there for the money. Our smallest kit makes 5 gallons of cleaner and another 5 gallons of brightener. Your cost is about 5 cents per square foot.
Question: Is your product safe for the environment? I don’t like the idea of chemicals on my deck or in my soil.
Answer: Restore-A-Deck is less abrasive to the wood than most of the products on the consumer market. Its primary ingredient is also found in OxyClean™. There are other proprietary chemicals in the formula, but all of them, once diluted with rinsing, meet all E.P.A standards for disposal and will safely drain into the soil without affecting the soil pH balance. As with the use of any type of detergent, please read the safety precautions page.
Question: Can’t I just use bleach and dish liquid on my deck?
Answer: We do not recommend you use bleach (sodium hypochlorite) on your deck. Bleach attacks the lignin in wood. Lignin is the glue that binds wood fibers together. Without enough lignin in place, wood begins to break down more quickly. In addition, bleach imparts an unnatural whitening to the wood. This shows up very prominently when you apply a pigmented sealer as blotchiness. Every lumber association recommends against the using of bleach yet 90% of cleaning products available at your local home center contain bleach.
Question: Why use any chemicals at all? Isn’t using a pressure washer by itself good enough to do the job?
Answer: In order for a pressure washer to adequately clean wood, you would need to use extreme pressure at the surface. This causes the wood to split and the grain to raise, both causing the surface to become unpleasant to walk upon. Using a proper detergent like Restore-A-Deck eliminates the need for highly pressurized water hitting the deck. You wouldn’t take a shower without using soap or shampoo, nor would you wash your dishes with just water. The detergent does the cleaning, the water acts as the rinse.
Question: Do I need to use a pressure washer if I’m using Restore-A-Deck?
Answer: While initially, we wanted a product that would not need the added scrubbing action of a pressure washer, we feel it is safer to recommend one be used but with proper technique. In many cases, Restore-A-Deck will work it’s magic and can be rinsed using some brushing and garden hose pressure. We have included a more detailed explanation page on proper pressure washer usage here.
Question: What is included in the kit. What additional tools do I need?
Answer: Your kit will include a container of the cleaning agent, a container of the brightening agent and detailed instructions. You will also need at least one pump up 3-gallon sprayer (we recommend two), safety goggles, and PVC gloves. Optional equipment may include a pressure washer and moisture meter.
Question: I used Restore-A-Deck, and it looks great! Now I want to protect the beauty and protect it from the elements. What do you recommend?
Answer: Use the Restore-A-Deck stain in a semi-transparent color for UV protection and to enhance the natural grain of the wood.
Question: I have leftover materials from your kit, should I throw them away?
Answer: No way. Restore-A-Deck’s cleaner is excellent for cleaning vinyl patio furniture, garage floors, house washing, you name it. The only time we recommend caution is around colorfast material. The brightener in your kit is also excellent for removing rust stains from concrete. Restore-A-Deck’s materials have a shelf life of one year if kept sealed and dry.
We are currently cleaning, brightening and staining our new deck round #2. The first time around (October 2020) we followed this process after letting our kiln-dried cedar weather for a month. We were pressed for time because nights were already getting down in the 30s. The stain did not hold up well. In round #2 the cleaner is removing the original stain. Is it supposed to? If not, what do you think happened?
Removing it is fine. This will allow the new coating to soak in deeper. Make sure to not over apply the stain.
It’s done now but I would like to figure out what happened for next time. My husband showed me where the cleaner was removing the old stain prior to hitting it with the pressure washer. Because of this he felt he needed to get really aggressive with the pressure washer, even though I told him not to, and really did a number on our brand new cedar. So we know next time, is the cleaner supposed to remove the original stain? Are you saying that it was peeling off with the cleaner because it was applied too heavy the first time?
It can remove the old stain if the older stain was over applied.
I have to laugh because he said I applied it too light this time yet apparently he over-applied it the first time. It does make me nervous to use the cleaner again. It was removing the old stain in strips and would have looked terrible if we didn’t remove it all. Not sure if we should used the stripper at that point.
I am in question as to what I need to do my deck. It has been previously done with Semi Transparent cedar natural tome Olympic fence snd deck treatment. I did not get it done last year. What kit would you recommend to use to strip,clean and stain with your product and additives if needed. The deck is 12 x 12 and six steps total. We are doing just the deck and steps not the railings. I would like to use your Semi Transparent Cedar Tone Natural. I am not sure what size kit to use. I will include pictures of my deck. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.
The RAD Stripper with both additives for prep and then the RAD Brightener. One of all 4 of these: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Stain-Stripper.html
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Brightener-Only.html
Hello, In reference to the FAQ above .. “I used Restore-A-Deck …..Now I want to seal in the beauty…what do you recommend?” The answer states “pick a quality sealer from a reputable dealer….we suggest Woodrich Timber Oil….” My questions: sealers and semi trans stains are two different things correct? I don’t see just a “Sealer” on Woodrich.. they do make mention of a page with stains and sealers… it seems to be the same thing , a stain and sealer. Isn’t Restore-A-Deck trans stain a stain and sealer? Bottom line while I did purchase a trans stain cedar color my preference is a “clear” product so I get nothing but the natural beauty of the wood. I do not see such a product “clear” on your site or Woodrich. Thank you in advance for your assistance.
All deck stains are sealers as well. Clear will not give UV protection. You must use a stain. We will update this part of the article.
I have a deck that has old semi transparent stains on parts of it, grey areas in other parts. I want to clean it up in the next week, but will not be able to put your semi transparent stain on it until possibly June.I am planning to use your stripper but am not sure if I use the brightener since it will be about 1-2 months before I can stain it.
You will have to redo the prep if you wait 1-2 months to stain with the cleaner and the brightener. Brightener after the stripping is done now.
Before I wash and strip my deck using your product, do I need to protect the pained metal railing? What about limestone around pool?
It should not harm either but always do a test spot first.
I used the restore a deck system (semi-transparent walnut latex) on my dock and front stairs in Central Florida about a year ago. PT Pine construction. I have green algae on some shaded parts of the dock decking and drip line of front steps. I need to safely clean algae and re-coat deck boards and horizontal steps from use. Please advise.
Prep with this and then apply one coat: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Cleaner-Only.html
Since we have had unseasonably warm weather I made the mistake of getting eager and stripped and sealed the steps going up to my deck. They look great. I now realize there is going to be a big problem with ruining the stairs when I deal with the deck itself and have to rinse off the Restore-A-Deck. The obvious answer would be to cover everything with heavy plastic, but it still seems to me unlikely that I can avoid run-off on the steps. Is there any professional trick for this situation? (Probably not, since a professional wouldn’t be so dumb!) Thanks.
No tricks will work, sorry.
Close-up of droplets
Not sure what that is but it is not coming from the stain. There is nothing in the stain that would cause this to happen. Looks like something is leaching out of the wood? Does it wipe or scrub off?
On the upper deck I hosed it off which caused the stain to appear blotchy. I put a second coat on that deck and it looks fine. I started the lower deck (the photo with the blue droplets) yesterday and did not get to finish. This morning the droplets were on the lower deck but I just left them alone and they seem to have evaporated and the boards look fine. New question; can I put a second coat on if the stain has dried overnight?
No, once cured and dried you cannot apply a second coat as it will not take.
Again one did not post. This one shows some of the blotchy area.
Some of the photos did not post.
I have a question concerning the finished stained boards. The cedar boards on this top deck were put down in late April and May. They had been purchased two years prior but had been covered and protected. I used the RAD cleaner according to package directions using a sprayer and a stiff broom. Waited the appropriate time, then rinsed well. I applied the brightner according to the package directions, waiting approx. 15+ minutes. Rinsed until I no longer saw any bubbles. It was late in the day by then so I waited until the next day to stain. As you can see by the photos I have a lot of block wall along the deck so I chose to use a 3″ brush to stain with. Took about 3 hours but it went well. The next morning there was dew on the decks ( our days in the Portland, OR area have been mid-70’s & night mid-50’s ). The stained deck also had droplets of a blueish nature on portions of the deck. I rinsed the deck down but as you can see from the photos it has left patchy areas. I am now going to do the lower deck. Yesterday I cleaned, used brightner, and rinsed very well. This morning I rinsed the deck again very well. I am waiting about three hours until I start staining the damp deck. Any suggestions.
Here are photos of the blueish droplets.
It is Anne Again, The deck is so slick that you really cant walk on it without sliding. It is still wet.
I stripped and brightened the decking and cleaned and brightened the railings two weeks ago, but didn’t get to start the staining before leaving on a trip. Do I need to clean or brighten again or just rinse off and stain?
Just rinse off and then stain.
After I have scrubbed the cleaner and washed off the deck it still feels soapy. Will the brightener get the soapy feel off?
Power wash to rinse better and then apply the brightener.
When I get my solid deck stain it will be close to 3 weeks since I cleaned/brightened my deck. Do I need to do any additional steps? Would you recommend applying to a dry or wet deck? Thank you!
Lightly wash or rinse the wood with a pressure washer to remove any dirt. Damp or dry is fine. Cannot be visibly wet.
If I didn’t use a pressure washer, how would I go about cleaning and rinsing the deck? I am worried about having to possibly sand the wood down after pressure washing as well as the hassle of renting and and using it properly. This would be for a brand new deck with pressure treated pine.
See here about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
You will need the pressure washer to help prep after the wait.
Thanks for the quick reply. I am curious though as to how these things were done before pressure washers existed. Was it just an extraordinary amount of elbow grease and scrubbing?
No one prepped and stained decks prior to pressure washers 🙂
I used RAD cleaner a few weeks ago on my deck. It took off the old stain but still had the grey coating. You recommended that I strip it and then brighten. I ordered the stripper but just recently got it in the mail. I’m planning to use stripper and brightener later this week… before finally staining. It’s been 3 weeks cleaned but without any brightener… do you think the wood is ok?? 🙁
Yes, it is fine.
I have just finished stripping and sanding an 800 sq ft deck, pressure treated pine, 18 years old. I never want to do this again. Can RAD be maintained/reapplied by simply cleaning and washing? Forever? (I am 70, forever is not that long:))
Yes, clean and recoat as needed.
how should I prep this deck to be restained the same color?
Use the Restore A Deck Cleaner: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Cleaner-Only.html
Temp for application of solid stain says 70 degrees and i realize thats wood temp and not air temp. When doing wet on wer application does that keep the wood cooler and allow for higher air temp? If so how high or do i need to wait for fall to come in the great northeast?
70 is optimal but the range is 50-90 degrees. You do not do wet on wet application for the solid stain. The second coat is applied after the first coat fully dries.
I find that I did not order enough semi-transparent stain and have ordered more. The deck is ready, how long can I wait before staining?
2-3 weeks.
I have a porch that was stained with oil based before . What do i need to do to prepare for your product?
Depends on the brand and type of stain? Pictures would help as well.
I used cabot semi-solid in a gray color. I’ll try and get some pictures of it this afternoon.
I used your solid stain costal gray on my deck today. We used the calculator but must have done something wrong because we didn’t have enough for a second coat on the horizontal part of deck or to do our stairs. I ordered more today. Will it be a problem to do a second coat when it arrives weather permitting without additional prep? Will I have to clean the stairs again since they didn’t get any stain?
Just clean off any dirt first and you will be okay.
I have 19 year old treated deck where I sanded, stripped & brightened as instructed. I applied one coat two days ago 105 cape cod gray. I was very pleased with the results, however day 3, the deck appears slight shades of rusty/yellowing tint. See attached. Could you explain why this transpired and would 2nd coat maybe next year correct this?
Looks like tannin bleed from inside the wood. This is something that cannot be prevented. Adding another coat should blend it better.
Thanks for your reply. I want to express my appreciation for all your support in directing me in the right direction for my Deck project. Your web site and comments was very helpful.
Keep up the good work!
Thank you
You are welcome!
Can I apply a semi-transparent stain with a spray gun and compressor. Does it work well to use this and will the spray orifice become clogged?
You can spray it but you will need to back brush to ensure it is evenly applied.
I have vinyl irrigation tubing attached to my deck. Will the caustic nature of the Stain Stripper harm my tubing?
No.
We are going to strip a deck and pergola that has a built in, painted stucco island. The pergola stripping will surely drop down onto the stucco structure. Will it damage the painted stucco??
It would help to cover this to be certain you do not have any issues.
Hi! I contacted you guys about removing solid stain and you were awesome in being honest and telling me the only real way to remove solid stain is to flip the boards and sand. SO we just finished flipping and sanding the boards today. The deck itself is 4 years old, the surface of the boards now facing up were never sealed. There is some discoloration but no signs of mold. What would you recommend we do next in terms of prepping and cleaning for the application of a semi transparent stain?
Treat the wood like new: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Wait a few months and then clean and brighten the wood for prep.
I stripped, brightened and stained my deck in December. It’s looking good, but I’d like to try to keep it as clean as possible for walking around barefoot. What’s the smartest way to keep it clean between now and the next time I apply stain, most likely in another year or so.
Just rinse with water as needed.
I am getting ready to use the restore a deck cleaner and then the brightener, and want to make sure that is safe for the pool because I am sure some will make contact with the pool water
Yes, it is.
I washed, striped and brightened my deck. The colors are still very uneven. I think some is bleaching from the sun. There are also lots of fuzzies. I plan to rent a buffer tomorrow. After I buff will there be residue that has to be removed? If so, what is best way to do so
Rinse well with water when done.
Rental company doesn’t understand how the pads will “hold” on while being used on a deck. Can you tell me what tips if Pas- stripping or polishing or???
I stained my deck last year and have plenty of material left over to do it again this year. Is this recommended or should I wait? If so, do I need to do all 3 steps? Also, if I do steps 1 & 2, how long do I have before I stain the deck? Thanks
If it looks good then leave alone and redo next year. More is not always better.
Ok thanks, attached is a pic for your reference.
Looks good. Leave until next year.
I am doing a deck for a customer that was last treated before they moved into the home over 5 years ago. The previous stain is was a penetrating stain and they are going over the top with a hybrid solid stain.
Do you recommend stripping the deck or cleaning the deck for prep? I did not know if it going untreated for five years made any difference.
Just clean if using a solid stain.
I have this 16 year old deck that I haven’t maintained, because we wanted to tear it down and replace with a patio. This year we decided against the patio, so now I have a mish-mash of new and old wood. From perusing your site, I plan to fully redo the deck in the fall. However it is so ugly and dirty, I want to do something to make is presentable for the summer. What do you suggest?
Try just cleaning and brightening the wood so it looks better for the summer. Use the RAD Kits.
Great! Should I reclean, strip, and rebrighten in the fall, before I stain?
Yes.
That 2nd to last sentence should read “I fear that if I sand and then brighten, the fuzzies will show up again and then I’ll just have to SAND again”.
Buff off the fuzzies with a floor buffer and buffing pad. Doot this after cleaning and brightening. It will remove the fuzzies if there but will not sand the surface too smooth.
1. I’ve heard of using a floor buffer and buffing pad many times on this comment board. But there is never any detail. Just any buffing pad? I’ve obviously never used one before and would appreciate any help you can offer.
2. Also, there are times where people on this site have been instructed to clean, then sand/buff, then brighten. But you are encouraging me to clean, then brighten, then sand/buff. Just want to make sure I get this right…
You rent them and they sell the pads at the rental place. If you sand, then you clean and brighter after. Buffing is not really sanding so it does not close the pores like sanding can.
Thanks for the buffer info. I am reapplying the same RAD stain (type and color) to my deck for this job. I read another thread (of a cedar deck like mine that looked identical according to pics) that they should clean, then reapply stain. So that is what I planned to do. I cleaned the deck yesterday, now have the fuzzies. Can I buff and then just reapply stain? Or is it important to brighten first, then buff, then reapply stain?
No need to brighten if you have a base coat.
I have a cedar deck (installed in September 2018). I waited a year to clean and brighten using RAD product. The fuzzies were pretty bad, so I sanded them off after they dried using 80 grit sandpaper. Then used RAD natural stain. The stain did not adhere well and I just applied the RAD cleaner once again. As it is drying, the fuzzies are terrible again. Is this going to be my yearly struggle? Should I sand again, then just stain? Or should I sand, then brighten, then stain? I fear that if I sand and then brighten, the fuzzies will show up again and then I’ll just have to stain again. Any help is appreciated…
We are going to clean a cedar deck rail that has hog wire in the middle and is on top of an aluminum deck. Do we need to take any precautions for protecting either of those metal surfaces?
Possibly with the aluminum if painted. Do a test spot first.
Are the Cleaner and Brightener safe for use near bluestone flagstone? Our deck has steps down to a patio made of bluestone, and I’m wondering if it will stain.
Yes.
Hi,
1. Can your product be used over previous oil based stain?
2. Can your stains cover a polyurethane, waterproof sealant caulk to fill in any crevices in the wood and a wood filler?
3. how many gallons of stain would I need for two decks covering 12 x 16‘, and 16 x 16, and approximately 10 stairs at 3 and 1/2 feet long, and top railings of deck?
4. On the website I only saw about five color choices. Do you have more than these? And is clear an option as well?
5. How long to ship to South Carolina?
6. Would I use a sealer over top of the stain?
Thanks,
Kristin Miller
1. No, it would have to be removed.
2. No.
3. Use the calculator on this page to total up the amounts properly. To right on desktop or bottom on mobile.
4. We do not.
5. We are delayed during COVID-19.
6. You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain.
Do I need to use a sealer after I stain with RAD products? I’m in the PNW.
No, you cannot apply a sealer on top of a deck stain.
Thank you. Just used your products on new wood (seasoned) and followed the directions to a tee. A couple boards have some tannin bleed but the deck looks great. I have enough left to do another application next year. Great products!
Hello. Can you tell me if this deck is worth restoring? We’ve had it quite a few years and haven’t painted it yet. Thank you.
Yes. Prep with the RAD Cleaner and Brightener Kits. Stain with the RAD semi-transparent or Solid stain.
Hi, Deck has been stripped twice and then brightened. Is this enough? If we proceed to stain what kind of results can we expect?
These spots will show through slightly as they are almost 100% opaque in appearance. Otherwise you should be fine since 98% or more of the deck is stripped.
All done and it looks great. Thanks for your help!
Hello-I had a new cedar deck installed during the end of summer 2018 in northern nj. I waited til the spring of 2019 to stain the deck using your RAD clean/brighten/stain kit, doing one coat. I should have sanded first, after cleaning, as the brush I used was, in hindsight, too stiff and left a lot of raised cedar pulp fuzzies. I am going to stain again using the natural RAD stain again doing two coats wet on wet this year. I am going to sand after using the cleaner this time, and power washing rather than scrubbing. Would you recommend I sand with 60 grit afterwards, and rather than using a buffer, would it be ok to use a sanding pad on a pole such as used for drywall sanding a ceiling? Then use the brightener.
Yes, you can do this. Clean first, lightly pole sand after, then brightener is correct.
Hello
I have a 18 year old 450 sq/ft treated wood Deck in Mich. This Deck has about 3 coats of blotchy, peeling Buhr Deckover stain. Wood is still in great shape. Before applying “Restore A Deck” I would like to know the proper steps in applying this project.
In using the cleaner and stripper, will I still have to sand the entire deck?
I simply want to attain great lasting results.
Dennis
Hello,
Sorry, but it is not possible to strip off the Behr Deckover. This product must be removed by power sanding. Once sanded off, you would then use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener for final prep.
I like to know if you ship to New Brunswick, Canada
Yes. Just add to cart And enter shipping info to see costs.
My deck was stained with RAD a few weeks ago and now I’m having a roof placed over it and the deck looks dirty and dingy. What can I use to clean the deck once all the work is complete. It looks like some of the dirt is rubbed into the wood. I also posted a couple of weeks ago about the stain looking different in some areas and was asked to post a picture but I haven’t had time with the construction going on. Will post once its complete and I get the deck cleaned.
Use warm water with dish soap and a soft mop or car wash brush.
when staining my deck with the RAD step-by-step procedure some of the semi-transparent stain dripped onto the following surfaces; concrete patio, plastic and painted balusters. What is the easiest and quickest method to remove the stains from these areas? Thank you.
Try a water-based graffiti remover cleaner. Apply and pressure wash off.
My deck is not drying after 12 hours and is going grey in places
It looks like you excessively over-applied and or did not prep correctly. What stain did you use?
do I need to use the booster additive? the deck railing was stained by a semi transparent (behr) at least 6 years ago. it is gone from the top and still there on the sides. I only need to do the railing (the deck itself is not wood and does not need to be stained).
With Behr, you should use both the Booster and the Thickening Gel. Apply and let dwell for 45-60 minutes. Mist with water while dwelling so it does not dry out.
I have a 6-month old 15×15 screened in porch newly built w PT pine and kdat t&G decking. I’m ready clean and brighten then stain it natural semi trans w your products, but I’m concerned the cleaning/brightening agents will damage the screens or black metal balusters. Is this safe to get on the screens? and if so, how long should i leave the products on before rinsing off since its been covered and the framing has been only exposed for 6 months?
They should not harm screens or black metal balusters but no way to say for certain as those are not all made the same. Always best to test spot first. Apply and then pressure wash (not rinse) after 15 minutes or so.