Note: The RAD stain can be applied to damp or dry wood but is best applied to damp wood. Easier and will avoid potential Hot Sun Application Issues.
Today we will outline some things you need to know about how to apply Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain to damp wood for best results. Recent advancements in wood stain technology have allowed for a number of benefits, including better UV protection against the sun’s rays, excellent penetration into the wood grain for long-lasting results, and the ability to apply the stain to damp wood the same day as completing the prep steps. Since staining damp wood may be a new concept to some of you, as it has not been a possibility before, we have some tips and things to take into account so you can achieve the best-finished product.
New Wood Note: New wood is not the same as “damp” wood and needs to weather and be prepped before staining. Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
Before you start your wood stain project, ensure your temperature conditions are optimal for best results. The surface temperature should be between 45 degrees F and 90 degrees F. Check the weather forecast and do not start the staining process if the temperature is expected to drop below 45 degrees or if rain is a possibility in the next 12 hours.
If the weather is on your side, first, complete steps 1 and 2 of the Restore-a-Deck in a day process by applying either the Restore-A-Deck Cleaner or Restore-A-Deck Stripper depending on whether there is already stain on the wood surface, followed by the Restore-A-Deck Brightener. Allow the wood surface to dry for 2-4 hours before tackling the staining process.
Make sure you mix Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain well initially and periodically throughout the staining project. Protect all non-target surfaces with cardboard or drop cloths. For equipment, you can use the Restore-A-Deck Stain Brush (if using the RAD Semi-Transparent Stains), hand brushes, or staining pads to apply. Apply the stain to vertical surfaces such as railings or posts first, and protect the horizontal surfaces from the excess stain. Apply stain to the full length of the board, making sure to not break in the middle of the board. Apply 2 coats wet on wet for older wood and 1 coat only for newer wood.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
And there you have it. We recommend allowing the surface to dry for 24 hours before walking or placing furniture on the surface.
Have you completed the Restore-A-Deck 3 step process in one day? Any tips we are missing? We want to hear your reviews. Be sure to comment with any photos and let us know how the project is holding up over time.
Restoring kid’s swing set / play house. Currently red solid stain–unsure of brand. Want to use RAD solid. Can I pressure wash and apply, or do I need to clean / brighten first? Does the RAD cypress look red? (My deck is TWP redwood; I apply new coat each year; hoping to get something on swing set I don’t need to do re apply each year).
When prepping for recoating with a solid stain, see this article for advice and tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Color varies on the sunlight. The Cypress does have some red tint.
After reading your information links it appears (reading between the lines) that the 2-4 hour drying period between the brightening step and staining step can be eliminated by using a leaf blower to remove any standing water puddles/drops. Is this correct? If yes, this fact should be added to your instructions. For larger decks, eliminating the drying period greatly increases the probability of finishing your project in 1 day.
As long as there is no standing or puddling water, you can stain after the prep, on the same day. Visibly damp is okay.
Forgive me if you’ve answered this in the comments below. I have some very old decking that I have stripped and brightened. In addition to the power washing I did, it has rained extensively. I’m pretty sure the boards are quite damp/soaked. I know the technology is different, and you can do same day applications, but is there a moisture meter rating I should aim for? It rained 6 hours ago and I woke up with the wood still damp. Today and tomorrow have no rain. I was planning on using the first day to dry the wood a bit and applying this evening. Does that sound like a sound plan or do I not have to actually wait this long? Or, given the age and moisture, should I wait longer? It’s a huge deck and I’ve been at it for many days so I just want to get it right. Thank you for your help!
Give it a day or two to dry our if it has rained a lot. Moisture % less than 20.
I am planning to stain today. There will be 12 hours between finishing and when it is supposed to rain tomorrow. When it says I should wait 24 hours to walk on the deck, how does rain play into that?
It can take a rain 12 hours after applying.
And I should still be able to walk on it after 24 hours if those 24 hours include rain?
Yes.
Thank you!
Last question (probably not 😉
If we brighten and stain the same day, we should wait 2 hours after brightening, before staining , correct ? We’re using the semi-transparent stain.
Correct.
If we brighten one day, and stain the next day…
1. Is it okay to stain the day after brightening?
2. confirming the stain can go on damp or dry wood, but you recommend damp for better stain application.
1. Yes.
2. Damp or dry.
I just refinished my deck. It was new three years ago, with RAD semi transparent applied. It’s been three weeks, and looks good, however, it seems dry, and looks like it needs a second coat. You say wet, on wet, but can I treat it as a refinish since it’s been three weeks? Thx, “Kritter”
No, you cannot add additional stain now that it has cured and more stain is not better. You want it to fully soak in, not sit on top of the wood.
Hello – just finished pressure washing and sanding 700 sf of my cypress deck. It had been treated with oil based stain and was covered in mildew. I have purchased 4 gallons of your semitransparent RAD and brightener.
I need to know how to proceed…. After using the brightener, can I apply the stain while the deck is still damp , or should I wait a few days until the deck is dry? Also, do I need to apply a 2nd coat. If so how long should I wait before applying the 2nd coat?
Also to let you know, I used 60 grit sander this last time…. This deck is almost 15 years old and has been sanded and treated with oil based stain every 2-3 years. I would think it has weathered long enough!?! That said, since I sanded the deck, do I need to let it weather till spring before I do anything to it?? I am afraid without any stain the deck will be in worse shape if I wait until next spring.
Anthony, we already replied to these questions earlier.
Thanks!
I just finished all three steps including semi transparent cedar stain.
within an hour had a pop up thunderstorm. I realize I have to strip /brighten
again Question is should I let it completely dry first and can I start stripping?
Assess the situation after the rain dries off. Send some pics. It may be fine.
The weather in the northeast has been challenging for staining this summer, I live close to Lake Ontario and it’s been raining quite frequently. I have two projects I need to complete. I will be using semi transparent on both, first is a deck second is a new fence that was installed in April and has to be stained by late September or the installer won’t honor the warranty. What would be an acceptable moisture content level for both projects? I have a moisture meter, thank you
It is not about moisture % but porosity. Are both new? Is the fence smooth wood or rough cut?
The deck is not new, been stained 2 times previously, last time failed within 5 months, bad product because it was properly prepped and stained in a nice dry spell. I realize I will have to strip the remaining stain in order to use Restore A Deck. The fence is brand new and rough cut.
The fence you can stain now as long as it is clean. Make sure to remove any old stain for the deck as prep. For prep tips on the deck, post some pics in the comments.
I have a 20+ year old deck, and I believe it’s never been stained before. I would like to use a RAD semi-transparent stain on it. Please let me know if this is the correct sequence, thank you!
RAD Cleaner and Brightener for prep. You do not need the stripper. Staining is correct.
Thanks! In your opinion, how many gallons of semi-transparent stain would I need to go over my 12×12′ deck twice?
2-3 gallons.
I have one area of my deck that gets heavy traffic from my dogs. Would a solid stain hold up better in this area?
Possibly but no deck stain is 100% immune to heavy traffic from dogs.
just checked my brightener instruction, it says “wait at least 48 hours before staining”, but RAD website says I can do it all in the same day. Which one is correct?
That varies if using the RAD stains or another brand of deck stain. Only the RAD stains can be used the same day as prep.
I used RAD semi about 4 years ago and will do it again. It’s in a shaded area and temperature around 60 degree. Is it still better to apply stain the same day?
Either way is okay.
I will be using stripper and brightner on one day and solid stain applied the next day. Should wood be re-moistened before applying stain? How long to wait between first and second coat of stain?
You can apply the solid stain to dry wood or damp wood for the first coat. The second coat goes on as soon as the first coat is dry. 1-3 hours.
So if I use your stain irrespective of semi transparent or solid, how long will it last before having to do the prep n stain? Which stain has the highest UV protection?
Normal to recoat every 2-3 years. Solid stain will have better UV protection.
Based on reading your forum though frequently you state if we use a solid stain it won’t come off. I’m confused…what’s the difference between your solid stain product and others on the market? I don’t want to buy solid stain if I’m never going to be able to remove it…
You can remove a solid stain if you want down the road. It is more work than removing a semi-transparent but it can be done.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
OK. So why would you sell a solid stain product knowing it’s going to be harder on your customers to remove? From everything in your posts you advise against the solid stains.
Many people prefer the appearance of a solid stain or they already have a solid stain on their deck. You do not have to fully remove it when you recoat it.
We sell the semi-transparent stain 10:1 to the solid stain.
OHHHH. OK thanks I knew I was intrinsically missing something lol. Appreciate the response, wasn’t trying to be snarky just made no sense logicallu!
I stripped, cleaned, sanded and stained my deck last year. I did one coat with advice that because I sanded the deck I should treat it like new wood. I need to apply another coat now-should I use wet on wet technique to reapply the second coat for the best adherence after pressure washing?
Use our prep products while pressure washing and then apply one coat since you will already have a base coat.
Thank you. We on wet technique still?
One coat.
Do I apply the stain with the deck dry or damp? Not sure as it’s the second coat.
Either way works.
After reading the articles i have a clarification question .. new wood; weathered (8 months) and prepped ..
It is mentioned the stain is best applied to damp wood in this article; but another article says new wood either damp after cleaning or dry next day. Hot sun application mentions misting prior to staining..
What is the best method for the above?
thanks!
d
We like damp wood for ease of application.
I’m looking to repaint my deck with a solid stain over an older solid stain that is cracking/peeling. I was looking over the prep steps and have a question on prepping the deck. Do I need to remove 100% of the older paint with RAD Paint & Solid Stain Stripper? Or can I remove most of the loose paint before I repaint the deck?
Remove all the peeling solid stain and then you can cover the intact stain that is not peeling with the RAD solid stain.
After reading through all of the advice on your website I see that for solid stain it should be applied with a hand brush, roller or airless sprayer.
If using a roller what nap should be used.
Thank you
1/2″ to 5/8″ nap.
Going to stain our deck this weekend with semi transparent stain. We have a stain sprayer- should I use this or a pad? What would be best for the railings? Thanks!
Pads work best. If you spray, back brush to ensure an even application.
We got heavy rain last night, I’m planning on doing all 3 steps in one day to my fence. Obviously have no puddles since it’s all vertical surfaces. Can I do all 3 steps starting with a wet fence?
You prep with wet odd and you can apply the stain to damp wood, not soaking wet wood.
Is there any need to do anything to the underside of the deck and stairs? It doesn’t get any sun obviously and it would be very difficult to get under there and work. However, there is some mold/mildew. Maybe just use some hot soapy water and a scrub brush on a pole once in a while to clean?
No need to do anting but if you want to remove the mildew, your could try this:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-guard-mildew-cleaner-preventer-1-gallon.html
My 2019 Ipe deck had an area with deeper shades of the original stain (Ipe oil). That area was under an umbrella base.
I applied the stripper + brightener on that area, with the hope that it would align the wood color with the rest. It kind of worked (the color of the area is now aligned with the rest)…but when I applied the stripper+brightener, I overflowed a bit to surrounding areas…which have then become too bright!
Any recommendations for next steps? I was thinking of stripping + brightening the whole deck now, in the hope of getting the “bright” color everywhere. Or should I avoid re-stripping + brightening the area that is already bright, to avoid damaging it?
You cannot spot strip. Best to strip all and then brighen all so it gets as even as possible before restaining.
My only available weather window will have a daytime high around 50°F but will dip closer to 40°F overnight. I know the recommended temp range is not below 45°F within 12 hrs, but is there any acceptable variance in that at all?
Hard to say as it depends if the stains has enough time to fully dry before it dips into the 40s. No way to say for certain it will be okay.
We are restraining our deck with Restore a Deck 3 part system.We previously used RAD when deck was about 8 months old. We are staining with Restore a Deck Semitransparent stain wet on wet application, 2 coats.
I understand being able to walk on first damp coat and not on second coat. If stain is tracked by shoes onto unstained portion of deck after walking on first damp coat, would that not leave shoe print stains?
Or, would they be covered up by stain when applied?
Thank you.
It will probably shoe the prints if stepping on unstained wood. Best to stain all floors and then reapply to apply floors.
I am looking to stain my deck the day before we are scheduled to get rain for a couple of days. Would that present a problem?
Should be fine as long as it has 12 hours of drying.
Okay – I appreciate the answer.
So, my plans have changed and it looks like I won’t be able to stain until after we get rid of several days of rain. Assuming I am done with the sanding, after a quick pressure wash do I still need to use the brightener or can I go right to staining?
Use the brightener.
Will it work to use solid Restore-a-Deck stain over deck holes filled with Wood Expox or other exterior wood filler?
The solid stain will cover the wood fillers if that is what you are asking.
Finished prep yesterday and ready to stain new deck. Weather has been clear. For best results with RAD semi-transparent stain, do you recommend I mist the desk before staining or leave dry. Thanks!
Sorry, meant “deck”.
You can do either or. We think it spreads easier if wood is damp.
Hello…….
Our deck railings and balusters (63!) were all sanded last fall to remove old unknown brand solid stain.
I replaced all decking last year with new wood during late Summer/early Fall.
We let the deck and railings set unstained for approx 10 months. The deck and all railing remained untreated until now.
This past weekend we used RAD cleaner and brightener on the complete deck and railing.
Unbelievable how fantastic it all looked…so clean and bright!
We used RAD Solid Stain on all the railing and balusters – Classic white….two coats and it looks great.
We used the RAD Semi-Transparent Cottage Gray on the deck.
The color is perfect but it is a bit blotchy looking.
Some areas are darker than others.
I am so tempted to put a 2nd coat on the deck…….is that something I can do now or do I have to wait for maintenance coating next year?
Please let me know the best approach to this.
Thank you so much for your assistance….you all have a fantastic customer service business!
You cannot add another coat now after the first coat has cured. You can lightly clean and add a coat next year.
OK…..thank you.
Will doing the cleaning and adding one coat next year make the decking look uniform in stain color? If not, please let me know how to proceed to get a uniform looking stain.
Images attached as to how it looks now after one day of dry time.
Thank you….really appreciate your time and knowledge!
It will even out over the next month. Next year just lightly clean and add a coat if needed.
If I cannot start staining until two weeks after I apply stripper and brightener, will that be ok, or would additional prep work be needed?
the deck is 15 yr old green (not any more) cedar, with a number of brand new boards patched in to replace old rotten ones.
Just make sure it is clean. If needed lightly pressure wash rinse prior.
My deck has been stripped and sanded. A little solid stain is still on the deck. If I use the Dark Walnut semi transparent stain will I need 1, 2 or 3 coats?
You cannot use a semi transparent stain unless you remove all of your old solid stain. Once all is removed you would need two coats.
Finished staining 2 coats on my old wood deck yesterday night and noticed I missed a few spots. It’s going to rain soon today, so I can’t stain today, but is it ok if I do a third coat a few days later after the stain has taken rain?
No, it will not take a third coat.
if i strip and brightened today but cannot wait the mandatory 2 hours, is it ok to stain tomorrow?
should I mist the deck before staining? will this make the process easier?
You can stain after to dry wood or mist the wood if you like first.
I have completed sanding off all of the solid stain that was on my 850sf deck.
1) Should I let it weather at all before cleaning and brightening? Will be applying the RAD light oak semi when process is complete.
2) Since it has been sanded down to the bare wood it sounds like I should only need one coat, correct?
1. No need unless you sanded finer than 80 grit.
2. Yes.
Pressure-treated pine about 1 1/2 years ago. I used the cleaner and brightener yesterday. All pressure washed and ready to go. I lightly dampened it, and started to use RAD Solid White. It looks like whitewash. Interestingly, a test on non-dampened wood about the same. And those darn spindles take forever as everyone knows. It is hot today, humidity near 55%
If I do get it finished, what’s my cutoff date to do another coat?
You have to do two coats with the solid stains. Apply the second 2-4 hours after the first coat. You can do the second coat the next day as well.
Just the darned railings and spindles. I finished maybe half with one coat, thunderstorms tomorrow night into Monday. So the 2-4 hours is out.
Do you have to do all steps in the same day? Is it ok to strip and brighten one day and stain the next? Or is it best to do it all in one day?
You can do either way!
My deck is about 14 months old, the main portion covered, but an attached grilling deck and stairs are uncovered. We bought the stripper/brightener/semi-transparent stain kit and used it correctly last weekend, but had to wait until this weekend to do the staining. Since it looked great last night when it was completely in shade, I decided to go with only one coat, but with the sun shining on it this morning, I see it’s very splotchy around the knotholes. Can we do a second coat this week? If so, do we need to mist it first?
Looks correct and it is normal for knots wot be lighter in color. The wood is much denser there.
We would not suggest another coat right now as it may not take.
Thank you.
Hi. I’m new to this entire process…I stripped with RAD stripper, power washed and got most of stain off then lightly sanded with 220 grit as not to destroy the floor boards. That removed almost all stain and removed fuzzies. I’ve brightened and am ready to stain. It’s about a 5 year old deck, wood looks great and am wondering if 1 or 2 coats for longest protection.
One coat since you sanded.
It looks like internally the wood is darker in areas. Let it cure out and if you want another coat do it next year.
Suggestions for applying a maintenance coat. Should I apply 2 coats? Prep work needed?
RAD Cleaner and Brigtehern for prep. Typically just one coat if you have a base coat.
We ran out of stain after our first coat of solid stain. Had to order more, so will be 5-6 days (hopefully) between coats. Should we use the cleaner again or just spray off the deck?
Just lightly wash with water should be okay.
Use the RAD Stripper and Brightener so it is down to the bare wood.
I managed to get my entire deck cleaned and brightened, and stained one half of it before we entered a rainy period here in Oregon. From your answers to other questions, it looks like I have two weeks to get the other half stained. Assuming it stops raining soon, how many dry days should I allow before staining the second half of the deck? Thanks.
RAD Stain can be applied to damp or dry wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
it looks like the Oregon weather may not give me a chance to finish staining within the two-week time period after cleaning and brightening. If it goes beyond the two weeks, what do I have to do to the wood before I can stain it. thanks,
Reclean lightly.
When you state “apply 2 coats to older wood and one coat only for newer wood;” what exactly is newer wood? Is two year old stained pine decking that has been stripped and brightened with no signs of aging and appears newer?
12 months or less is new wood.
My deck is 20×15 and I’ll be using solid stain expresso, what’s your recommended method of application? I noticed the brush was recommended only for the semi-transparent. Thanks.
Roller and brushes for the solid stain.
my deck is 30 years old and last painted with Behr over coat, which must be removed completely by sanding and using a paint removal tool. once it is down to the bare pressure treated wood, can I then begin prep. thanksjohn
Yes.
Deck is 10×16 pressure treated wood, 50 years old, central NY (snow & ice to 90’s & humid). Old deck paint is still mostly intact under deep eaves, but the sunny area is peeled off to about 2/3 bare wood with some splintering. The paint has some sort of non-slip grit. I scrubbed the deck until it glowed (sort of) with a stiff brush and deck cleaner w/bleach-smelling mildew remover. No pressure washer on hand, so I used the garden hose. A search for a reliable topcoat led me to this site. It appears RAD solid stain will cover the motley surface uniformly, but do I still need to pressure wash as prep? Wouldn’t that further rough up the aging wood surface? Do I need some sort of filler for cracks deeper than 1/4″, or replacement boards? Thanks.
You cannot apply a solid stain over a deck paint. Sory but our products will not work in this scenario.
What is considered damp wood? We sanded deck down to bare wood, it had Home Depots Deckover on it, will never use that again! It rained all night, no puddles but wood is wet.Should we wait until it dries more?
You can stain it when visibly damp, just not soaking wet with puddles.
We just used the Restore-A-Deck stripper and brightener on our three-year old deck. (We applied the Restore-A-Deck cleaner, brightener, and stain six-months after the deck was installed.) Most of the deck looks great and ready to be re-stained. But there are some splotches and some areas that are darker than the rest of the deck. Can we apply the stain or do we need to take some action to eliminate the splotches and the dark areas first?
Post a picture in comment area.
Here are two photographs that show some of the splotches and darker areas.
That is old stain that was applied unevenly. Best to strip and then brighten for prep so the new coating applies evenly.https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Stain-Stripper.html
The photographs that I sent to you show the deck after it was stripped and brightened. That’s why I’m wondering if I need to take any further steps. Thanks for your help.
Sorry, re-strip using both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Make sure you are pressure washing off after applying the stripper.
Okay. Do I need to sand the problem spots first? Do I need to re-strip the whole deck or just the problem areas?
We would strip all. No need to sand.
Thanks for your help. One final question: We have approximately 3.5 gallons of the original stain. (Only one container was opened when we applied the stain two years ago.) Do we have enough stain to put down two coats on a 480 square foot deck?
Opened stain only lasts 12 months. Unopened will last about 3 years as long as it has not frozen. You have enough for one coat, not two. One coat is enough this time.
Used a fast acting deck cleaner from HD to clean our old deck. I believe the previous owners applied a solid stain to the deck, which is now patchy. 1. If I use a RAD solid stain that is darker than the original solid stain, will the result be patchy or will it blend?2. Do I need to use RAD stripper and brightener if I use your solid stain?It’s my first time restoring a deck so need advice on best plan of action!
The RAD Solid stain will cover the old solid stain. Make sure that all peeling stain is removed first. We suggest using the RAD Stripper/Brightener to prep as best as possible for this deck.