Restore A Deck Cleaner Instructions and How To Tips
Keeping your wooden deck in good condition is without a doubt crucial to both its appearance and lifespan. Nothing looks worse and deteriorates more quickly than a neglected deck. Many deck owners have opted to do their own deck maintenance.
Restore A Deck cleaner is a specifically designed two-part system that is best used to clean and prep a wood deck prior to resealing it. The Restore A Deck cleaner system consists of a wood cleaner that will remove dirt, grime, mold, mildew, and grayed wood fibers. Step 2 of RAD Cleaner is a wood brightener that corrects the pH of the wood and brightens it up prior to applying a wood stain or sealer.
To clean a deck using the Restore A Deck system follow these easy step-by-step instructions.
1. Be sure air temperatures or between 45-90 degrees. Remove all furnishings from the deck and the surrounding area.
2. Though Restore A Deck is Eco-Friendly it is still a good idea to cover sensitive plants and shrubbery or pre-wet them with fresh water. Use plastic to cover doors and windows in the surrounding area.
3. Follow the Restore A Deck instructions to mix the Step 1 Cleaner in a clean bucket until all crystals are dissolved and transfer to sprayer to avoid clogging of sprayer inlet tube.
4. Lightly spray the wood deck with water. Use a pump sprayer or scrub brush to apply RAD Cleaner to the wood. Allow the cleaner to dwell for 5-15 minutes. Keep the deck wet by misting with water during the dwell time. If using a pump sprayer please make sure that no undissolved powder is poured into the sprayer. It will get clogged!
5. Hand scrub or use a pressure wash to remove dirt, grime, and graying from the wood surface. Do not use excessive pressure. Pressure washing at 1500 PSI is much more effective and easier.
6. Once cleaned, rinse the wood deck and the surrounding plants, windows, house siding, etc.
7. While the deck is still wet from rinsing, apply the Restore A Deck Wood Brightener (Step 2).
8. Blend the RAD Wood Brightener by following the product’s instructions and apply with a pump sprayer. Allow the brightener to dwell for 10 minutes then rinse off. No need to having scrub or pressure wash the RAD Brightener. Make sure to rinse the RAD Brightener thoroughly for 20 minutes until all soap suds are removed after the 10 minutes dwell time.
Note that the RAD cleaner is not intended for removing old deck stains or sealers. Please see Restore A Deck Stain Stripper when dealing with existing stains.
If you have any specific questions about your project or just need some help, please ask below!
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What if you splash this cleaner or brightener in vinyl siding? Does it stain this siding?
No but it may clean the vinyl if it is dirty.
I used restore 1o times I have some algae. What should use to clean? Can use Jomax mildew cleaner?
I am not understanding your issue. Can you post a picture?
What should my deck look like after cleaning and brightening? What if there are some white parts (like chalk)?
Please post a picture. It might be oxidation of the wood cells that might not have been fully removed. Does it show when wet with water or just when wood is dry?
Just when the wood is dry. Reading more, I think these are wood fuzzies and we will need to buff.
It will not show when stained if it does not show when wet.
how soon after rain can I use restore-a-deck cleaner
As soon as the rain stops.
Planning on using you system this fall to clean my deck. Was told pressure washing would damage wood but noticed you said a PW could be used. Although much more work, is it better to scrub by hand to avoid tearing up wood surface? Also, when misting to keep deck wet during wait period, should the solution or plain water be used?
No issues with pressure washing as long as you use it with the prep products. the prep products allow you to “back off” on the pressure so you do not damage the wood.
Mist with plain water.
The instructions above say to wait 1-2 days before applying stain ? I thought the system allowed for it all to be done in one day?
If using the RAD Wood stain you can do it the same day. If using a different brand of stain, you will need a couple days of drying.
I used RAD 3-step process this year. i want to stain again next y ear. Should I use the cleaner or the stripper?
Cleaner.
What is the wood brightener for?
Neutralizes the deck cleaner leaving the wood at a natural pH balance of 7 and brightens the wood.
So we just stained our deck with the TWP. Do we need to strip this in 2 years and reapply or clean brighten and restain?
Clean and brighten for the reapplication prep.
Cleaner not dissolving. I am using the 1 cup to 1 gallon of cleaner, making about 2 gallons per batch. At least half the cleaner not dissolving and plugging up pump sprayer. Poured into separate tub and mixing by hand, but still cannot get it to dissolve. Went ahead and cleaned with what did dissolve and brushed like crazy, and then used brighter, but something left white residue on boards that does not wash off. Any thoughts on how to correct or how much mixing/time is needed to dissolve granules?
When mixing the cleaner it is best to mix in a separate bucket first and not directly in the sprayer. It never 100% dissolves so mix first and then pour into the sprayer making sure that last inch or two of water with the undissolved powder does not get into the sprayer. About 90% or more dissolves properly.
We have used RAD cleaner & brightener on our 2-3 year old, never before stained redwood walkway. There is an area by the door that has been covered with a doormat that has protected the wood, you can see the semi-circle where it has not faded from the sun. Suggestions on evening that out before we apply AC semi-solid Sierra stain? Also, a few boards have a small amount of furring, not sure if from the pressure washer. If we spot sand those areas do we need to do more than a quick rinse?
Sorry, but it will not be possible to “even” out where the rug was and have it match the rest of the wood. If you need to sand a few areas, lightly sand by hand and not a power tool. Spot sanding with a power tool could result in uneven application of the stain.
Rinse all with water when done.
Okay, it’s been over 24 hours since yesterday and since I haven’t heard back from you either here or on telephone messages. so we redid some sections holding the pressure washer about 6 inches from the wood. It’s working better, now I have a question about brightener. In one post you tell someone to use it and then leave the brightener on. On the package it says to rinse it off after 10 minutes. Which is correct? Also, can I wait and do the brighten, say 24 hours after cleaning since I’m doing the back of a panel and it will get oversprayed with cleaner? I kinda of need to know now… Thanks!
I am sorry but we did not see this messages yesterday.
The main issue is you have a lot of oxidation of the wood to remove and you were not using enough pressure for the first time. Glad it is working better for your after the second pass.
As for the brightener. Typically we suggest that you brighten right away to reduce the chance of fuzzies but if you have to keep cleaning the next day, just brighten all when done.
I’m a little discouraged. My husband and I spent about 4 hours doing cleaning/brightening yesterday on 11 month old new cedar. We were only able to complete two 6’x6′ areas (vertical panels consisting of solid planks with 2 ft. of privacy fence above). We scrubbed with deck brushes and used a 1600 psi pressure washer with the fan-style wand at the 12- 18″ distance (most of the time.) We kept going back over it even after the pressure wash, you could scrape off a gummy goo with a fingernail. Since it was getting dark we did the brightener and hoped for the best. In the sun today, the wood is still covered with grey spots. Not sure what we did wrong but I assume we have to start over. Any tips or advice on what to do next, much appreciated. I still have a 16′ x 15′ deck and some stairs and railing and underskirting after I do the privacy panels. Thank!
Would your CLEANER work on my Grandmothers old diningroom table and chairs to remove the old built-up grime? Or would you not recommend that?
No, this would not work.
My 2-year old deck looks wonderful and like new after applying the cleaner and brightener. Thank you for a great product! The one board I’ve replaced does not seem to absorb water even after scrubbing with cleaner and brightener. Should it be left unstained and for how long while I stain the rest of the deck tomorrow? Kindly advise and thank you in advance!!
Ellen
See this about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
What happens if it starts to rain during the cleaning/brightening process? Will you have to start over or can you continue? Is it best to wait for a completely dry day?
Rain will not harm the prep.
Hello: cedar porch built/stained 6 years ago, no maintenance since in central MN. I want to clean up to remove graying and restain. Do I need to completely strip all the weathered stain off, then apply cleaner and brightener, or could I just clean and/or brighten before staining?
Strip and brighten for the prep is correct way.
I’ve cleaned and brightened. What would happen to my project if I don’t stain. I know it’s recommended, but what will happen if I don’t? Will my wood turn grey again this year? Next?
it will oxidize and gray within months.
pressure treated deck in good shape but algae is still visible, at least the color, after using Restor #1. Can I just go forward with the #2 then stain in two days or do I need to do more with the green tint?
Go ahead and brighten the wood. Leave the brightener on and do not rinse. The “green” you are seeing is internal and the brightener should help as it dries into the wood.
Great, thank you. Just to be clear, I spray on the brightener, no rinsing,
then I can stain in 48 hrs. Correct?
Yes, correct.
I have used Olympic cleaning it has bleach in it its had left my deck blotchy I was instructed not to use pressure washer, I just rinse with with water hose.what do I need to do
Redo all with the RAD Cleaner/Brightener kits while using the pressure washer to fix this.
We also used Olympic and it left a white fuzzy residue all over our deck. The website says the only way to get it off is to sand it. We have a 1000 sq ft deck and dont have the time for that. Any suggestions? Such a waist of money. Thanks
FYI, a cleaner or prep product is not the fault or cause of this. It is the heavy oxidation of the wood or needed stripping of the wood that creates the fuzzies. Best to lightly buff off this to fix with a sanding pad and buffer.
new deck…pressure treated pine-untouched for 2 years…I have tried all kinds of cleaners, power washer, etc…Will this product really work? Taking off the black-and evening out the wood? I am so frustrated now-found your product and it seems wonderful…have put in a lot of labor so far-with very little effect…..
It will definitely help to prep the top side but you did create an issue with the bleach-based cleaner on the floors that shows the splatter marks. It should even it out. For mildew on the bottom, it will clean it but it will be a messy job since you are washing below. You will need a pressure washer with the RAD prep products.
thanks for such a prompt reply…I do have a pressure washer-and I really hope your product can help me…the product I used is sold by sherwin williams as ’30 second painter’s prep.” I have wasted a lot of time and money so far…Hope your product works as I have seen in the reviews!
What’s the consequence of leaving the cleaner on for longer than 15 minutes? I might hire someone to do my pressure washing and I’m not sure we’ll be coordinated enough for me to get cleaner down and do any necessary scrubbing and then someone else to pressure wash a given section within 15 minutes.
It will dry if you wait too long. It only takes a few minutes to apply it with a pump sprayer.
Thanks for the reply. Is there any reason I couldn’t apply the cleaner, scrub, and rinse with a regular hose myself then have it pressure washed a few days later? Or is it imperative to have it pressure washed at the time I use the cleaner?
You always use the cleaner with the pressure washing so the pressure washing does not damage the wood by just washing with water only.
Hello, I am looking to stain my new cedar siding. The wood is about 5 months old, in southern California. I am planning to use your cleaner and brightener before applying the stain. Since this is vertical siding rather than a horizontal deck, do you still recommend the same application method of using a pump sprayer and power washer? Thanks.
Yes, that is correct for the prep.
My deck was stained one year ago, (not sure what product), and still looks good but would like to clean it. Can I just use your cleaner and not use the brighter?
Thanks, Victoria
Hello, our products are designed to prep for reapplication of the stain.
Just finished stripping cedar deck with RestoreaDeck stripper. Left a white residue. What is it, and what can I do about? Thought I followed directions.
Thanks.
Did you brighten as well? Please post a picture.
Thanks for the quick reply.
Yes, I used brightener.
Don’t think it’s chemical residue but the fuzzies (wood threads) mentioned in another post below. I sent the post day-of stripping when the deck was only partly dry. I used a pressure washer (trying to be gentle) and it took off almost all the old stain.
So what to do now?
Sand off the remaining few spots of stain?
Spot sand down the fuzzies? or the entire deck?
(Brighten after sanding? I don’t quite understand why that’s recommended.)
Not worry about the—the stain will take care of it?
(I’ll try to post a pic or two, but for some reason haven’t had much luck.)
Thanks in advance.
Wood fuzzies can easily be removed if using a floor buffer. You can rent them at HD or local rental yard. They also carry 3M sanding pads. About 15″ in diameter and 1″ thick. You lightly “buff” the floor with this. There will be no need to brighten after. Just stain.
Thanks. To lightly buff cedar, what grit do you recommend?
They are pads, not sandpaper. Red or white in color.
Ok. Tried the buffer idea. Didn ‘t work for me. Pad grabbed the wood too much and walked buffer across the deck. Uncontrollable, and I’ve used buffers a little before. Or maybe you know some trick?
HD didn’t have 3M. Used white pad from local rental place.
Hand sanding makes fibers come off like duck fluff, but it’d take awhile. (Could be I ran the p.washer too hard.)
So do I now need to rent a square sander, or hand sand? 80 grit? Or…?
Need to get it done in the good weather window we have right now.
When you use a buffer you have to balance it. If you tip it forward it will go to the right. Tips it backward it will go to the right. If it does not work, just hand sand lightly. 80 grit.
I have used Rad cleaner and brightener on my cedar deck that is 1 year old and will be staining for the first time. The two products have worked really well but now I have sections of the wood that have the “furries” or “fuzzies” as they are called. What is the best way to deal with this, or can I just leave it and stain? Thanks.
Fuzzies are not a result of the cleaner but a result of the oxidation (graying) that occurred since the deck was installed last year. Does it show when wet with water? If so, it typically will not show once stained.
They only appear when dried for the most part. When the deck is newly wet you really don’t see them. It seems staining then will make them disappear. I appreciate the advice.
Here is its current state.
We are trying to bring back a very old and neglected deck. We pressure washed, then used a drum sander. We have small children and are trying to prevent splinters. We want to go over it with a palm sander with a finer grit. What grit would you use? Should we sand then clean and brighten (or vise versa)?
60-80 at most with the grit. Clean and brighten after the sanding. This will help to stain to soak in better.
Hi, I cleaned and brightened a sanded, 20 year old pressure treated pine deck with RAD and finished it with one coat of Armstrong Clark oil based semi-transparent dark brown stain in 2017. It workred and looked great. After the winter snow pack, it now has significant green surface mildew/mold(?) on the shady end of the deck. I would like to be able to clean it without pulling the stain to give me one more year of this finish. I know that a through pressure washed RAD cleaning will pull the stain.
1) Can you recommend a lighter dose of cleaner that should clean the green and leave the stain intact? And would I also use brightener (or is that just for pre-staining)? or,
2) Do I have to bite the bullet and refinish the deck using RAD Stripper and Brightener, and restain with RAD Stain. If So, what color would you recomend, given the present appearance as a guide?
Thank you for your help,
Peter
Try 2-3 oz of RAD Cleaner to one gallon of water. Apply and lightly rinse (not heavy wash) with a pressure washer after 10 minutes.
We plan on stripping our deck and then waiting several weeks before staining. Can we wait to apply the brightener just before we stain, or does it need to be applied right after stripping.
Hello, the brightener would need to go right on after the stripping. Wating several weeks is not the best idea. Always try to stain within 1-2 weeks after the prep.
Because of weather delays, how long can I wait after using your product before I really should apply a sealer? Great product by the way.
Wait 48 hours after prep for it to dry and stain within 2 weeks.
After using your product I waited 24 hours before sealing. In hindsight I recalled that I forgot to rinse off the brightener after application. Will this have a deleterious effect on the sealer that was subsequently applied?
You will not have any issues.
I just used the restore-a-deck on my Teak Ski Platform for my boat. I kept the surface wet with new product, not just water, and even scrubbed it midway with a deck brush then reapplied fresh product. It continued to bubble. I then used the brightener. However, the platform still has a significant amount of gray areas on it. What did I do wrong? I know Teak is a hard wood. Do I need to use a power washer? I was hoping to avoid that if at all possible but maybe I need to do it.
Hello,
Most likely the use of a pressure washer while using the Step 1 will remove the gray. Teak wood is extremely dense/hard so it will require more pressure.
Hi… two questions… I used RAD cleaner and brightener on my cedar porch, then it was sunny for two days, then rained the next three… I’m going to stain with TWP 1500 but I’m trying to gauge my application window… the stain-can says to wait 48 hours after it rains before applying, but how long does the TWP 1500 have to sit BEFORE it can be exposed to more rain?
Also, the can says to use a rag to absorb excess stain after the second coat, should I use a rag to absorb excess stain after the first coat also? Many thanks!
1. About 12-24 hours after applying, before a rain.
2. No. Only if needed after the first coat.
I used the Restore a Deck cleaner and then Brightener on cedar posts and wrap around boards. (I can’t remember if the wrap around is cedar or pine.) Some of the cedar looks beautiful. Some of it turned a little white. The wrap around boards turned a lot white. What should I do?
Did you apply and pressure wash off?
You should be fine after you stain all the wood. It will look the same.
Do I need to protect painted surfaces when using the brightener?
You do not.
[quote name=”Davefc9″]Will RAD work on IPE ?[/quote]
Yes it will.
Will RAD work on IPE ?
[quote name=”dford”]Hi, this is a deck cleaning and brightening product but will it work just as well on house cedar siding shakes? If yes, any tips? I want to clean off the grey, then brighten it, then pick an outstanding clear stain. Thx, Dan[/quote]
Yes, it works on cedar siding as well. Apply the Step 1 and pressure wash off. Rinse and apply the Step 2 Brightener.
Hi, this is a deck cleaning and brightening product but will it work just as well on house cedar siding shakes? If yes, any tips? I want to clean off the grey, then brighten it, then pick an outstanding clear stain. Thx, Dan
[quote name=”chaneyhd”]Should hardware on gates, etc be covered when using RAD?[/quote]
Best to test first to see if there is a reaction. Most likely it will be fine.
Should hardware on gates, etc be covered when using RAD?
[quote name=”Alec Doede”]I have a Cabot clear product on my deck currently. Very dissatisfied. Deck is cedar. My deck gets a lot of direct sun exposure, snow/ice, dog nails… a lot of abuse. The cabot is toast after 12 months. I’m going to take it off and put on Armstrong. A couple questions… 1. what is the difference between your stripper and cleaner? It appears I use only stripper then brightener… but I’m curious why there is a cleaner product too… why wouldn’t someone always just use the stripper? Also… curious your input on Armstrong product if you can make any recommendations. I’m thinking I’ll go as dense/dark as possible for longevity. Any input is appreciated. Thank you![/quote]
Cleaner is for decks that are unstained, dirty, graying, and when recoating with the same brand of stain as before.
2. Darker or more pigmented colors will offer longer UV protection.
I have a Cabot clear product on my deck currently. Very dissatisfied. Deck is cedar. My deck gets a lot of direct sun exposure, snow/ice, dog nails… a lot of abuse. The cabot is toast after 12 months. I’m going to take it off and put on Armstrong. A couple questions… 1. what is the difference between your stripper and cleaner? It appears I use only stripper then brightener… but I’m curious why there is a cleaner product too… why wouldn’t someone always just use the stripper? Also… curious your input on Armstrong product if you can make any recommendations. I’m thinking I’ll go as dense/dark as possible for longevity. Any input is appreciated. Thank you!
[quote name=”Matt Stanton”]Question – 30′ x 14′ cedar deck. Completely stripped and sanded (to get rid of Behr DeckOver), both horizontal and vertical services. Going to sand entire deck to 80 Grit. Will be using TWP 1500. Do you recommend using Cleaner & Brightener after sanding or just Brightener?[/quote]
Using both the cleaner and the brightener would be the best way to finalize the prep.
Question – 30′ x 14′ cedar deck. Completely stripped and sanded (to get rid of Behr DeckOver), both horizontal and vertical services. Going to sand entire deck to 80 Grit. Will be using TWP 1500. Do you recommend using Cleaner & Brightener after sanding or just Brightener?
[quote name=”John B”]Will RAD work well on cedar toned pressure treated wood? I have waited approx 2 years to allow drying.[/quote]
Yes, it should.
[quote name=”jade”]I have used the restore-a-deck 2 step process to prepare my cedar deck for staining…however, there are some grey spots on about 1/3 of the deck boards. And then where the deck is under the eves the wood has no greying at all but still retain some fading stain (TWP1500) in the same color I will be retaining with…
My question is:
Is it ok to just sand the boards that have greying and not sand the boards that have no greying? And then redo the 2 step prep process again ?
Thanks I appreciate your advise as I want this stain to last a few years again :-)[/quote]
It would be best to sand all. Spot sanding could lead to uneven application.
[quote name=”Angusc”]Must the #1 solution be used right away – or can I store the dissolved solution overnight for use next day.[/quote]
It should be used within a couple of hours of mixing for maximum effectiveness.