We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
Hello, I am looking for your input to restore this backyard deck.Looking ideally for a more brownish semi transparent stain if possible. Ideally you can give me a full package? Details below.
What you have is a solid opaque stain, not semi-transparent. Your options are to use another solid opaque stain over the top of what you have after prep or remove all and use a true semi-transparent stain. Removing all will be challenging and will need our heavy RAD PaintStrip and possibly sanding.
OK, will go with the solid stain then. Means restore/strip, re-stain? Do you think one coat is sufficient?
You strip off what is loose or peeling and then you can cover over the current intact stain that is not peeling. It will also remove all the dirt and mildew. You will need 2 coats of our solid stain.
I used your stripper and brightener and then sanded the deck.
Do you think it’s good enough for your semi transparent stain or would your rather recommend to use your solid stain anyway?
Thanks a lot!
You will need the solid stain as you still have some of the old solid stain coating on the wood.
Thanks so much, great product, great service!
You are welcome!
Our deck has a slimy green film (algae?) on it. It’s been several years since we’ve done the cleaning and brightening and it’s due. Is there a temperature below which you would recommend NOT treating? We are currently in the mid-40’s (Fahrenheit) and will be cooling as the week goes on. Thanks.
It should be above 50. Maybe wait until Spring to prep and stain. It will be okay to wait.
I have a covered deck that is ( years old. It was stained as soon as it was installed using RAD transparent stain but it didn’t take well so this month I used the RAD stripper and brighter to clean and restained using the same transparent color but it needs a second color because it looks faded in some areas. I planning on staining again in march and wanted to know if I just use the cleaner and brighter or will I have to use the stripper. I’m using the same transparent color.
Clean and brighten for prep. The goal would be to just lightly clean off any dirt.
Is the solid stain Espresso color a very dark brown or is it essentially black?
Very dark brown.
What is the best applicator option for staining square lattice? Would a pump sprayer work? Can it be applied with an airless Greco sprayer?
You can use a pump sprayer or airless sprayer. Back brush to catch any drips or runs.
Forgot to add I had to replace a number of boards with pressure treated white pine. Should I just wait until spring to do it all at once or what steps should I take?
Replacee the wood now and then prep and stain in Spring.
So since it’s already stripped and brightened, does that mean in the spring I need to
In that order?
Correct.
About 10-12 Gallons for 2 coats applied wet on wet.
Hello! I just completed my deck project, some of which will need to be revisited in 6 months.
Due to the condition of some of the wood, I needed to get 7 boards replaced, but didn’t want to wait to strip/brighten/stain the rest, so I have a partially finished deck. The new boards are spread out and are not all together.
After the new wood seasons over the next 5-6 months, I would like to go back and complete those boards to be stained like the rest.
From my reading your responses to other comments regarding new wood, it sounds like I will need to clean and brighten those new boards first before staining.
My question is, do I need to protect the boards I’ve already stained? (E.g. Covering them or being careful not to splash them too much?) Or, should I go ahead and also clean/brighten the boards I just stained, then put a maintenance coat on them at the same time I put the one-coat stain on the new boards.
I’ve provided a picture of the partially finished deck to give you an idea of what I’ll be working with next April/May.
Thanks!
You cannot get the prep on the stained boards unless you plan or recoating them.
Given that it will only be 6 months, is it OK to recoat that soon? (If I go ahead and clean and bleach all the boards.) Thanks!
You can. Note that no matter what, the new boards will be lighter in color since they are less absorbent.
Hi,
I need advice about staining a fence.
What are your questions?
Dear RAD folks,
I finished the three-step process my 19-year-old deck this past weekend after first using your products four years ago. I have a couple of questions about the job, upkeep, and re-staining my fence:
– We had our first significant rain since the job last night, and the photo shows the difference between water standing on edge boards (which received extra coats) and interior boards (which got 2 coats). Is this a problem and should I apply an additional coat to the less “beady” horizontal surfaces?
-Is it possible to do a light, water-only cleaning and an annual re-stain / “refresh” of the deck rather than the full three-step process? If not, what do y’all advise for routine upkeep?
-The fence was last stained (professionally) about 12 years ago. Would it be best to clean-brighten-stain or strip-brighten-stain? This will probably wait till next year either way.
-Most of the fence is shadow-box with smaller stretches of open pickets. Do you have suggestions on effective cleaning and staining of the shadow-box panels? I plan to apply the same dark walnut semi-transparent stain but with a pump sprayer.
Thanks for your help and for providing great products!
1. No, it is correct.
2. No, you always have to the full steps when recoating.
3. You have to strip/remove old coatings when switching stain brands.
4. Same steps as doing the deck. If spraying the stain, make sure to back brush to ensure an even application
Can you comment on the environmentally friendly nature of your cleaning and staining products? I am chemically sensitive and trying to find the most non-toxic alternative that will still do a quality job and be easy to maintain. A SDS or TDS link would be appreciated. Also, if you go with your semi-transparent stain, can it be reapplied when the time comes without stripping?
You can clean and reapply as needed. Attached SDS sheets.
I have a 7 year old pressure treated deck that previously had SIKKENS RUBBOL STAIN.I toke it apart board by board and ran it thru a 12 in planer to remove the stain.After putting it back together I sanded it down with 40 grit sanding disc.Can I skipped the cleaner and brighter and just apply the semi transparent stain?
No, the prep cleaner and brightener removes sand dust and opens the wood grain so the stain will absorb deeper into the wood. Only 1 coat of the stain.
I have around 20 year old 400 square foot pressure treated deck. I used oil based Cabot semi transparent stain first and then switched to water based Behr premium semi transparent stain. Many years of staining, but some of the stain started peeling off. I would like to remove all the stain and bring it back to the natural color of the wood to match the cedar shake siding. I was thinking about the rad paint strip to remove all the stain, but maybe the rad stain stripper with additives will do the job. I’m leaning toward the paint strip because of the Behr stain and also I wouldn’t have to scrub the deck with a brightener. Looking for the easiest solution. Any help would be appreciated.
It looks opaque like a solid stain so you would need the RAD PaintStrip to remove it.
I thought of trying to do this in October, but noticed it works best between 60 to 80 degrees. If I applied RAD PaintStrip during the day when it’s in the 60s would it be ok overnight when temperatures get down to the low 40s? Or should I wait until it’s warmer in the spring?
Warmer works better. In the meantime, we do have a small bottle to test to make sure all works well:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-paint-solid-stain-stripper-sample-size.html
I have a 500 square foot deck that is teak or similar. It has been 2 years since it was stained or treated actually with a teak oil. Is it ok to use your stripper and brightener on this type of wood? In the past I just used a cleaner like mean green and pressure washer before oiling.
Yes, use the Stripper and Brightener for the prep.
I have a new, unstained Ice 450 sf wood deck made of the Bison tile system. I mistakenly purchased the PREP and so I am now ordering the cleaner. I have on hand the Deckwise Ice oil. I plan to do the CLEANER and BRIGHTNER, then the Ice oil. Annually, I plan to re-apply the Ipe oil. Which of your products will I need to use in the future prior to re-applying the oil? If I do not need the Prep in future, then I will return it.
Whenever you recoat, you clean and brighten for prep.
My floor to back deck was sealed last yr. Want to stain and seal again now. It needs it! It doesn’t look like it has any seal on it now. Do I need to strip the wood before cleaning and staining?
Also put on new railing on back deck and new wood front deck this July of 2024. Can I wait till next yr to address doing these?
Just do both next Spring. It will be easier. As for how to prep, what sealer was used prior and pictures of the current condition would help. You can post them in the comments.
We have 600 sf deck area to be restored.
Use our Cleaner and then pressure wash all wood. Brightner when done. Apply the Restore A Deck Solid Stain after.
Would a Semi-Transparent stain work as well? Also How much stain will we need for this application
You can only use a semi-transparent if you remove the solid stain 100% from all spots.
I want to enter the contest today 9/28 because your site says enter by September 30th. But upon reading further it says deadline to enter is 9/20. Hmm… Biggest font and bold statement that jumps out to me is enter by September 30th which is why I waited until 9/28 to enter. See attachments. Id really like to enter the contest. Can I?
Yes.
Thanks. Tried resizing phone photos with an app. I’ll try again. 🤞. If you don’t mind how will I know if I’m entered into the contest?
I have an 800sqr foot deck that had Behr Deckover applied about four years ago. Significant peeling has led me to re-do the deck. It is pine (several boards recently replaced) I have mechanically and with a pressure washer chipped off most of the deckover but as you can see from the pics there is a lot left. I was planning on using a solid stain (not deckover) can I just feather the rest of the deckover and paint over it or do I have to remove every little bit of the deckover before staining? Also, if I do need to strip it, will the restore-a-deck stripper work on Deckover? Thanks for your help.
Sorry but no. You must remove all of the Deckover before using a solid stain. Deckover cannot be stripped.
Can restore a deck be used on fences?
Yes.
After brightening my deck, rinsing it thoroughly (I thought – no suds and rinsed for a long time), and then staining with light walnut some of the boards have a white powdery look to them, which I assume is brightener that was not rinsed enough. Do I need to start over?
Add some pics.
Here you go. Weathered green treated pine stripped of weathered and peeling solid deck paint using Rad Paint and Solid Paint Stripper, sanded (power wahing raised grain) brightened with RAD brightener, stained with light walnut Rad semi-transparent stain.
I am not sure what that is, but it is not from the stain or lack of brightening. Does it wipe off with water? Trying to see if it is on top of the stain or under it.
Deck is rustic, green treated pine.
I am restoring a 12 year old deck with aging cedar decking. I used Penofin semi solid stain previously. Yesterday, I used the RAD stripper which worked VERY well. The wood is now clean, light colored, and free of stain. I plan to apply Solid stain in Coastal Gray. Do I need to use the Brightener? I did not order it. Also, I may not have enough stain after measuring to do the two coats. Can I apply the second coat a week later after receiving more stain in the mail?
Yes, you should neutralize after using the stripper. You can apply the second coat a week later but make sure the wood is clean and dry.
I previously had Sikkens Solid Rubbol Exterior Wood Finish on my deck .I sanded it off with 40 grit paper.I’m down to bear wood can I use your product on my PT Deck now thats its clean?
Clean and brighten for final prep and you are okay to stain.
Hello,
My deck is 520 square feet, rail is 213 sq feet (32″x80′)
Not sure of the wood type
Can’t tell if the previous stain is semi or solid – can you tell from the photos?
I have a 3000 psi pressure washer
Should I use RAD or the regular stripper?
How much stripper and brightener should I get?
Do you recommend spraying or rolling/brushing stripper and brightener?
Thank you!
It looks to be a filming semi-solid stain. The RAD PaintStrip is most likley your best option, especially in the shaded areas since it looks “thicker”. You could try a combo of the Regular Deck Stain Stripper (with both additives) on the weathered areas and then the PainStrip in the shaded area. Brighten all when done.
Do you have pics of the railings? Verticals are the hardest to strip, so you may want to try a two-toned deck:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/two-toned-decks-with-restore-a-deck-wood-stains
OK, so I will go with the RAD paint strip. Attached is a pic of the rail…I was able to get 95%+ of the stain off with the pressure washer. I’m thinking of brushing the RAD onto the rails for the tough spots, and spraying the decking. Thoughts?
If you are getting most off the pressure washing, then we would suggest the regular deck stain stripper with both additives:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
You would have to airless spray the RAD PaintStrip. Always test spot when using the RAD PaintStrip:
Test Patch:
Before general use, test on a small area to determine compatibility, required dwell time, and coverage for desired results. For an estimated 5 or less coats, scrape a section of the area with a stripping tool after one hour of dwell time. If not easily down to wood after one hour, leave on longer and test again hourly.
Thank you very much, I appreciate all of your guidance.
One last question – I read that the brightener is not used after the RAD PaintStrip. So just a good rinsing before stain?
You do not have to brighten after the RAD PaintStrip but it does not hurt to.
Sorry if this is a repeat, but I do not see my reply here.
I think I will go with RAD all around for the railing and the deck just to be sure. I was able to get most of the stain off the railing with just a pressure washer, so perhaps I will brush on the RAD on the tough spots for the rail and spray the decking. Also thinking I should get the thickener for the rails. Do you agree with this approach?
Thanks!
Finished prepping for solid stain. Thought it was a one coat application; however, directions on bottle says two. I will order more How long may I wait to apply second coat. Ok to wait a week for second coat?
If ok what prep before second coat?
Thanks again!
Best to do both coats back to back, as soon as the first coat dries in 1-2 hours. Much easier as well.
I have a Chapin 2 Gallon metal sprayer. Can I use or do I need to buy a plastic sprayer. Does the RAD Stripper and additives react negatively with the metal.
You can use your metail sprayer.
I only need about 2-3 gal of RAD stripper and additives. Can The RAD Stripper and additives be proportioned and the remainder saved for future use.
Yes, just use about half the powder in the bag and mix with 2-3 gallons of water.
I am interested in a material estimate for the following deck. Most if it is treated southern pine, the post are cedar. Last stained with TWP 100 about 4 years ago. 986 sq ft of horizontal surface and 639 sq ft of vert surface. I will be using your water based semitransparent stain this time. I need stripper, brightener, and stain.
2 of these kits:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
12-15 Gallons of the stain for the 2 coats applied wet on wet.