We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
Is RAD water based stain recommended for a deck around an above ground pool? Just wondering if pool water affects the duration of stain 2-3 yrs. Thanks
It can be used around a pool but chlorine can have some effect on any deck stain. It will not matter what brand of stain.
My Deck has composite decking on the surface.And the rails and side /frame are wood.I wanted to know with the cleaner / brightner hard the composite ?
No it will not harm the composite.
I have an approximately 350 square foot deck made of pressure treated southern yellow pine which I built last summer. I’m ready to stain it and would appreciate your advice on what I need to do in terms of prep and type of stain to get the best results. It gets sun in the morning and is shaded mid-day to late afternoon and then gets low angle sun until sunset. Thanks, Tom.
See this for tips: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
I have a large, three level, deck that has suffered from 20 years of wear and tear. The deck has a dark brown deck “stain” which was applied four years ago. I want to remove the current stain and have the deck power washed, sanded and re-stained with a natural wood colored transparent stain or a light gray stain. However, someone, who isn’t a professional but whose opinion I respect, advised me that just sanding the deck would probably remove the current dark brown stain. I would appreciate your advice.
The best way to prep depends on the current stain brand and the type that it is. Sanding is not the best way to prep but in some cases, it is the only way to remove.
I ordered the light walnut…..I put it on a couple of planks of my deck and it is redder than I had hoped. If I mix it half-and-half with natural would it come out lighter?
You can mix colors together. As for how much lighter, that would really depend on your color preference.
Just what would be the best way to remove the color that I just put on the first three planks?
Sand or strip it off.
I plan to clean and brighten my 7 month old deck today and then stain it tomorrow with your water-based Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain. The deck will be dry tomorrow morning, and I am thinking I read on your site that the dry deck needs to be lightly sprayed with water prior to applying the stain. I have looked and looked and can’t find the answer. Should the dry deck be lightly sprayed with water prior to staining, or should the deck be dry before applying the stain? Thank you in advance for your help and wish me luck!
The RAD stain can be applied to damp wood or dry wood.
We live in Central Indiana and had a Cedar fence installed late Sept 2018. We We have let it weather over the winter months and plan to clean, brighten and stain with the RAD cedar stain. The fence is 1440 sq ft total for both sides. We plan to spray on the stain (with a pump sprayer) and back brush it with the stain brush you sell. My questions are: Does the fence need one coat or two? And how much cleaner, brightener and stain should I order?
Is the wood smooth or rough sawn? 1 coat for smooth. 2 coats wet on wet if rough sawn. How much stain needed is determined on the coats being applied. For prep, you will need 2 RAD Cleaners and 2 RAD Brighteners.
It is smooth wood
About 10 gallons for the 1 coat.
We have a deck, 1,200 sq. ft. of surface – The wood is redwood – Installed 2011- Used Olympic deck cleaner, water based, Olympic redwood transparent stain – We have a pressure washer – This will be the second restoration – The previous 2016 was applied with garden spray and roller
You will need to remove the Olympic. That will require stripping and possibly some sanding, as well as the pictures, show a “thick” coating of old stain in spots. After full removal, use the RAD wood brightener. You will need 2 RAD Stripper and 2 RAD Brighteners. About 10-12 gallons of the RAD Stain.
We have a redwood deck 8ft x 150ft linier – Want to clean some of the old stain and apply new stain
The deck is in good shape all is covered this is just for maintaining Please advise products and application process This is a Cabin in the woods of Oklahoma. Will try to send pictures Thanks, Hays & Suzanne Gilstrap
You will need to remove the current stain first. Please post a picture.
Hello! We are anxiously excited while planning our deck redo. It is almost 20 yrs. old, but still very solid and sturdy! We have already started sanding all the surfaces to take off old surface and smooth floor boards. Because we are sanding to strip and resurface the wood, would you recommend just doing the brightener before the stain? I didn’t see the point in the stripper if we have sanded.
We have ordered the color samples and are looking forward to choosing a color!
Thanks for the help!
Susan
If you sanded, you will need to clean and brighten the wood for the final prep and open the pores of the wood. Do not sand with grit finer than 60-80.
Installed new pressure treated deck November 2018. This week I followed the RAD three step process. The stain in Natural looks blotchy and darker in places on the decking and handrail. Also the handrail is very rough and parts of the decking when running your hand along the wood. What happened? Did I apply the stain too thick? What do I do to rectify?
Yes, you applied too thick on those areas. There is not really a way to rectify outside of removing all and starting over. I assume you only applied the one coat as instructed for new wood?
Yes, only one coat was applied. To start all over would that require using the stripper as opposed to the cleaner?
Yes. I am not sure it is really worth it though. Give it a month and it might “even” out some.
We used RAD for our 60 sq ft deck 8 months ago, it was an old deck that had never been stained. We read all the instructions and all the tips here on your site. But now, less than a year later, it looks awful. What could have gone wrong? Pictures attached.
Hello Kim,
More than likely what went wrong is that during the process of applying the stain, it was applied too thick or possibly the second coat was not applied wet on wet within 20-40 minutes of the first coat. The RAD stain is a penetrating semi-transparent stain. The directions state to apply only as much as the wood can absorb and if doing a second coat, the second coat is to be applied wet on wet.
See the attached picture for the application instructions in more detail.
Your pictures do show an over application to the point that the stain was unable to fully soak in and it dried on top of the wood surface in the areas of wear.
At this point, it is best to prep with the RAD products and apply one light coat. Just do the horizontals. If you would like some materials, let us know.
Thank you! So we tried to follow directions, but it was July and I think the heat made it dry too fast. Does that make sense? So then the second coat didn’t absorb? Which prep steps do we need to do before applying the coat? We would like to fix it before it gets too much hotter and it is Texas! Thanks again.
Yes, that is correct. If you apply the second coat to the stain after it starts to harden/cure, then the second coat will end up drying on top of the wood instead of in the wood. Prep with the RAD Stripper would be best. Brighten after and apply 1 coat this time so you do not have the same issues.
I have 1000 sq. Ft. of deck with semi-transparent cedar tone stain on it. I am hesitant to sand again and may try your stripper this time. I do have some heavier spots of stain in places. I want to get the sanding or stripping done soon but won’t be able to stain until about mid May when the temps get to 50+. I am thinking of trying the TWP 1501. If I sand/strip now, would I just be using the brightener again in 6 or 8 weeks before staining?
You cannot wait 6-8 weeks between prep and staining. If you do, you will need to clean and brighten for prep. A Brightener alone will not work.
Feel free to post a picture to ensure the proper way to prep.
I think I have 2 pics on the web site.
We are not seeing anything here.
Try these.
Using the Restore A Deck Stripper and then the Brightener would be the correct prep.
I purchased 2- 5 gallon containers last year of the Restore a Deck stain. The deck was installed in 2017 and I stained the deck in April 2018. I only used one of the 5 gallon containers. Do you recommend staining it again in April/May? And would I just use the Restore a Deck cleaner before staining? And how long does the Restore a Deck stain last in the unopened container that I have?
It will last a few years if unopened and stored in a climate controlled room. As for redoing this spring, that would depend on the condition and it could use a light coat or not. If it looks good then leave alone until next Spring.
Hello. I have 312 lf x 6 ft high new rough cedar fence. Some replies regarding new fencing have stated 2 coats stain, others say 1 coat for new wood. If 2 coats required and you need wet on wet application, what is the time window for starting 2nd coat? Or do I apply 1 coat now and then a maintenance coat later down the road? Will 1 coat prevent graying for 2-3 years? What is the best method of application for rough cedar fence? Thanks
If rough sawn, you can do the two coats. See this for applying: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
Thanks. What is the reason for 2 coats, as these instructions also state skip the 2nd on new wood, you won’t need it?
Only 1 coat on new smooth wood. Rough sawn is much more absorbent and will need the two coats applied wet on wet for best results.
I have a new cedar deck – installed 7 months ago. Can you provide instructions for application of stain? Should I apply with a sprayer and then brush or use a pad? If applying directly with a brush or pad, how is that done? Also, one coat or two? Thanks!
See this about new wood tips: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Use a stain pad or brush.
Hi. I have a 400 sq foot 20 year old ipe deck. I’ve treated with Penofin hardwood stain each year but am thinking of changing to Restore a Deck. My question is does RAD require you to wipe off the excess stain before it dries like the penofin does? That was always the biggest pain of the process and I’m hoping that RAD doesn’t require it since it is water based. And, if not, is there any chance the surface will be sticky? Thanks!
No, it does not have to be back wiped. Make sure to remove the Penofinf first with the Restore A Deck Stripper and Wood Brightener.
Great and thanks for the fast response!
OK So it sounds to me like I should wait a few months to let the sanded areas weather then stain with one coat on old and newer wood then restain the following year if needed with one coat. What do you think? i am using dark walnut, so will that maybe blend the old and new wood a little better? When you restain with the same color do you still use cleaner and brightner?
Yes, that sounds correct. Just the cleaner and brightener when you prep for reapplication.
Also, I spot sanded some areas and joints, will those blend in color wise or should I stain those areas first then coat entire deck as a second coat?
No. Spot sanding causes many issues with stain uniformity as the stain will take less on the areas you sanded, staining less in color. There is not a way to blend this outside of letting the wood weather for a few more months before doing the stripping and brightener.
I’m wanting to order now but need a few questions answered first please. it seems like i’m ordering alot of stain for the size deck I have, as I used only 1 gallon of Behrs semi transparent natural oil stain last year for deck and railing, deck is 400 sf with railing, calculator says I need 4 gallons with 2 coats. Is that accurate? I also put a few new boards down recently, will that be an issue getting final color to match? There is not alot of the behr stain left on the older boards. I just did deck 1 year ago. But should I use stripper anyway instead of cleaner? and use brightner after that either way? Finally, is it better to do all steps in one day while the wood is still moist (with no standing water), I read that might be better because the wood will pull stain deeper as it dries. Or can I do the final stain the next day when dry? Temp will be in fifties here occasionally now, but will get in low 30’s at night, suggestions?
Yes, for 400 sq. feet you will need 3-4 gallons for the 2 coats. The Behr must be removed fully, 100 before using the RAD stain. A cleaner will not remove it. Brightener after. New wood will be lighter in color due to less absorption into the wood with the stain. Only one coat for the new wood.
Best to do same day as it is easier to apply. It can be done the next day though.
Sorry. Major typos. The second sentence should read “soap and water would not remove it.”
Try a water-based graffiti remover from your local paint store.
I have some dried stain splatter. Sips and water is. Or removing it? Will anything else remove it?
I am using Restore-a-Deck products to stain and protect the treated southern pine decking on my dock, on a fresh water lake in Central Texas. The new decking on the dock was installed last March. I meant to wait 6 months on the new wood and treat but I let September go by, and we flooded in October, including the house. I am just now getting to treating the dock after focusing on repairing the house. In August/September, we had a bumper crop of “lake bugs” and the spiders residing on my dock went into a feeding frenzy. My dock deck boards are covered with spider poop stains that the Restore-a-Deck wood cleaner does not seem to budge, even with washing with a 1600-psi pressure washer.
Any ideas how to remove the spider poop? I use Scrubbing Bubbles to clean it off of my boat upholstery, but I am hesitant to use that on the treated wood. Thanks.
Sorry but no idea what would clean it off. It sounds like it permanently stained the wood internally. Have you tried the brightener yet?
I meant other way around! The pics loaded opposite.
Natural would not give the look. Closest would be Light Walnut. You can order samples here to test: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-samples/flypage.tpl.html
Our porch is on the left. We want the color no darker than the image on the right.
Would you recommend we use Semi-transparent stain in Natural to get a color similar to the 2nd image?
Porch details: redwood, 6.5 months old, never been stained, 250-300 sq ft.
Can you apply restore a deck cleaner with a pressure washer?
Sorry but no.
How does the RAD stain compare to the TWP 1500 product? I have TWP on my deck now and need to strip and restain soon.
The RAD stain has the ability to be applied to damp wood and will provide as well or better UV protection. The RAD will also prevent mildew better.
Started applying a solid water based stain (Behr Weatherproofing) to an old fence and don’t like the color (and regretting usthis product). Looking for a dark brown/walnut color. What product should I use to cover the recently stained section?
You cannot strip a solid color stain effectively. Best way to remove is to sand it all off.
We have a 2500 sq ft. redwood deck with full SW exposure every day and are at 7500′ in the foothills of Denver, CO, receiving about 200″ per year of snow. In June of 2018 we stripped, sanded and stained with 3 coats of a RAD stain. We loved the way our 2006 deck looked back to new with the RAD product. We had researched and your stain appeared to be the best for UV protection. Previously we had about 10 coats of clear Penofin on the deck so the sanding was substantial but found perfect wood underneath as it was so protected, albeit very dark.
Now it appears that our high volume of sun is stripping the stain (see photos) and we want to restain with RAD product again in June of this year. Should we use the cleaner, brightener and then stain or because we sanded the entire deck last summer, should we only use the brightener and then stain. We would again put 3 coats on if needed.
Thank you, BigChiefMountain
Use the Cleaner for the prep and apply 1 coat of stain. You overapplied last year. More is not better. The RAD stain needs to soak into the wood and when you apply too much stain, it will not soak in fully buy dry on top of the wood. This can create issues down the road with wearing, etc.
I have an IPE deck and was looking to install ipe in the interior of my home (box floating fireplace mantel and wood cap for stair railing handle). Can I use RAD to stain and protect these interior applications (railing handle and fireplace mantel)?
Yes.
I want a stain with the least look of an orange tone. What would be the better choice? Light Walnut or Cedar tone. Thank you.
Hello,
This can vary based on your wood type and age. Please test some samples: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-samples/flypage.tpl.html
pictures failed to upload. Trying again
Oh! I do have a pressure washer.
Happy (almost) New Year! I have a two segment IPE deck (main deck and a catwalk) installed in 2012. When installed, I tried to treat with a “high tech” sealer that did not work. Sanded back to clean wood and sealed with Cabot Australian Timber oil. Through travel, procrastination and laziness, I have let the deck deteriorate. No maintenance since 2012. Have just completed getting most of the dirt and grime off (no mold) using two cups of Arm & Hammer OxiClean to two gallons of water. Got most of the bad stuff off. Still have dirt and grime under the lower deck rail that my scrubber did not get. I assume that the Cabot oil is long gone. There remains, however, a white film and spotty dirt and grime. Assume oxidation. My two deck areas, railings and steps total about 1,000 square feet. Intend to try the deck cleaner and brightener. Would like to continue cleaning through the winter and apply a natural stain when it warms up in the spring. Will the cleaner and brightener bring back the beautiful IPE color for me to view through the rest of the winter if I apply in mid-40s temp in Jan ’19 or should I wait to do everything in the spring? Now that I have started, would like to see the wonderful IPE color all the time – not just when it is wet. Thanks, Fred
The prep products while using a pressure washer will help to bring back the color. Staining with the RAD Wood Sain in light walnut would be the best choice of stain and color. Do it all in the Spring.
Thank you. Will do.
Have a new pressure treated pine fence. Will be applying stain after 5 months. will I get good results using the chapin sprayer?
Yes but always back wipe when spraying the stain to ensure an even application.
We have a 10 year old porch. Wood is sassafras, it has been stained the semi transparent sikkens srd. We have sanded with 60 grit sand paper and scrubbed with deck cleaner and brightener. It is now Nov. Can we use this product now or wait until spring. I don’t want the wood to suffer during the winter. What is my lowest temperature I can apply this product and how long does it need to be at that temperature? In Kentucky you never know when it will warm. It is also ting and groove flooring.
Temps need to be 50-55 degrees while applying and for 4-5 hours after. If you cannot get it done this Winter, it will be fine until Spring. Just clean and brighten again before staining.
Would like to use RAD Step 1&2 on a fence. Will either product kill our plants?
Is shouldn’t but always prewet and rinse any overspray to be certain.
What is the shelf life of an unopened can and an opened can of your Restore-a-deck wood stain. Thanks.
36 months unopened and 12 months opened. Must be stored in a temperature controlled room.
Hello, I have a deck that is 41 x 12. There are 11 stairs that are 4×1′. The calculator states I have 536 sq. ft. of surface area. I’m not sure how to enter the totals in the calculator for all my railings since there are 16- 3.5″ wide rails altogether totaling 117.4′. About three years ago, Cabot solid color acrylic deck stain was painted on it. I’m not sure how old the wood is, but at least 10 years. I have tried pressure washing it (with a Karcher pressure washer) to see what happens, and of course nothing. The wood is old pressure treated wood with mold. What product can I use to get the old Cabot stain off and the mold, and then what would be my next steps? Thanks so much for your time!
A stain stripper will not remove a solid stain. The only way to remove this is to power sand it all off. Once it is 100% sanded off, your final prep would be with a Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener Kit. After that, you can apply the 2 coats of the RAD Wood stain.
For railings, measure the length of all rails and the height and enter that into the calculator.
I just used the cleaner and then the brightener, scrubbed with brush as required with the cleaner. after the deck dried i have some white spots or cloudy looking wood. what causes this and what is needed to be done?
That is oxidation of the wood fibers that you did not fully remove with the Step 1 Cleaning. Redo the Step one and heavy scrub or pressure wash to remove. Pressure washing is easier. Brighten again when done.
I re-did as instructed, and still have some of those whitish areas. Not as much as before, but I also used the pressure washer. Can I sand lightly or just increase the nozzle tip angle? I don’t want to tear the wood up with too harsh of a nozzle.
Post a picture.
up close picture. they are like fibers almost of the wood?
Looks much better. Lightly hand sand with a pole sanded before staining.
any particular grit sand paper?
80 grit.
am i ok to stain at 45f, and a low temperature of below that tonight?
Best to do above 50 when applying.
When will I receive my order?
Takes 2-3 business days to Georgia.
I have a new deck that was completed 4 months ago. I applied your light walnut semi-transparent stain yesterday after I cleaned and brightened it the day before. I have streaks and overlap marks from the stain. Can I re-apply stain to allow it to blend in better or do I need to redo the whole deck and how long do I wait to do that..thanks
The easiest thing to do is leave it alone for the Winter. In the Spring, do a light cleaning to remove any dirt and then apply another coat to help even this out.
Our deck underneath has electric wiring underneath that has a light bulb protected by glass globe. The deck is also next to aluminum siding wall. Will this product affect the electrical wiring (gauge 12) and the aluminum siding.
The products should not but hard to say if the water will or not.
Hi, I received my order of semi transparent cedar stain yesterday and noticed on the instruction sheet on the back of the container that you recommend a 12 month weathering period for cedar wood. I thought it was 3 to 6 months. I have a red cedar fence that is 6 months old. Should I wait till spring to apply your product?
You will be fine for cedar wood on a fence to stain after the 3-6 months.
Is it okay to use your product to stain a wooden deck and fence in 50 to 60 degree weather (i.e. high of 60 and low of 50 degrees) with humidity of 79%. This is in the Washington DC area. Would it be better to wait until spring with warmer temperatures?
You can do it now in these temps.
I have a new cedar fence. I’ve read that water based is better than oil for cedar. What is the best product? I want to retain the natural color.
Use the Restore A Deck Wood Stain in Natural. it will enhance the natural grain similar to as if wet with water: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain.html
I prepped my fence with your kit (cleaner and brightener) and then started applying your dark walnut RAD stain. The stain went on much darker than we want so we are going to switch to the cedar stain — but I already stained a small (1 foot square) section dark walnut. What’s the easiest way to undo the dark walnut and switch to cedar?
Since only a foot, try sanding it off with 60 grit paper. Another option is to use the RAD stripper, pressure wash off, and then brighten the wood.
I have a 1000 sq ft pine deck 18 years old. It has been cleaned every year and stained every 2 yrs.I have used various stains and the last 3 times I used Cabot Australian Timber Oil. Is the RAD products a better choice?
Yes, but you will need to remove the Cabot first using the RAD Stripper and then the RAD Brightener. If you would like further assistance, post some pictures.
Square Footage of Area to be Restored: 400
Type of wood if known: Treated Pine I think
Approximate Age of Wood: 6 years
If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type: TWP Honeytone
If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained: 2 years ago
Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.): Deck
Do you have access to a pressure washer: Yes
Miscellaneous Info: Want to redo this Fall and switch to the RAD Stain
Good news is the TWP is easily removed.
You will need:
4-5 gallons of RAD Stain for the two coats applied wet on wet
1 Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kit
Use the Stripper while pressure washing to remove the TWP. Once done, apply the Step 2 Brightener right away to neutralize and leave on for about 10 minutes. Rinse the brightener for 20 minutes untill all soap suds are removed. RAD Stain can be applied 2-4 hours later as long as the wood is not visibly wet or apply the next day.
See this for a RAD Stain Kit: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-5-gallons-and-stripper-brightener-combo-kit/flypage.tpl.html