We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
one last question. with a 710sf deck, how much of the solid stain and how many coats? Thanks!
2 coats about 5 gallons but that does vary.
thank you
Also, What do you recommend to use to apply the solid stain? as all your tools say “Does not work with solid stain”. Thanks!
Hand brush and roller.
DO you guys have a 5 gal of your solid stain? I have a 710sf treated pine deck built June 2018, and she’s ready 🙂 Thank you
We do not sell the Solid in 5-gallons.
Thank you
I have approximately 450sqft of old what looks to be never stained wood. Either pressure treated pine or cedar. I also have another 60sqft balcony that’s new pressure treated pine weathered for 4 months now. There is 60-70 linear feet of 4 month old pressure treated pine railing with aluminum balusters. How much cleaner, brightener and stain will I need? Will I need to sand any of the wood, especially as the old deck had a couple boards replaced 4 months ago? Would light or dark walnut or cedar RAD semi-transparent stain hide the differences in wood color better?
Hi, what is the total sq footage of all wood that is being stained? Sanding is not needed. Darker typically blends better.
450 old wood and 200-250 new wood including railing. So 650-700sqft total.
One of the Cleaner/Brightener Kits and about 6-7 gallons of stain.
If I order more than I actually use, can I return unopened containers?
See here about our policy: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Store-Policies/refund.html
The total area of the deck(s) is 432 sf. The decks surround the cabin, but are not contiguous.
Probably have never been treated, stained, etc – and only swept clean for 12 years or so. There may be some borate spray residue from some preventative dry rot treatments in years past.
I will only be staining the floor of deck, railings/stairs are already stained and look good.
Want the natural semi-transparent stain.
Planning on 6 gallons of stain, 1 container each of cleaner and brightener.
These decks are primarily redwood. Some small patching may be Douglas Fir, not sure.
Will have a 1700PSI 1.7GPM pressure washer.
Exterior walls of the cabin are cedar shingles, most stained.
Should I mask along the house/deck border?
Sliding glass doors (aluminum, and some wood trim) .
Should I mask along the door/deck border(s)?
We live under the redwoods, and the summer/fall transition mean pounds and pounds of tiny redwood “duff” — needles, small branches, squirrel “treated” seed cones (ground up).
Should I clean all the duff from between the deck boards before applying any cleaner product? (all decks have boards spaced at about 1/4 inches)
thanks
steve
Mask the surrounding areas as needed and clean between the boards as best as you can to remove the “duff”.
My deck is very weathered pine. It’s grey, splintered and cracked. We recently power washed it with water and plan to revive it in the spring.
I think my deck needs sanding in addition to cleaning and brightening. What order should I proceed? I’m thinking…Sand clean brighten stain. Is that correct? If not, what order should I use?
Yes, that is correct.
Here is the pic
Those will not come out with any of the products we sell as it is deep in the wood. Might need to replace those boards.
How do I remove these oil stains from the deck before staining?
I have a 25-year old PT deck. A few days ago I used a mix of oxygen bleach and Borax to clean off the mildew and rinsed with a power washer. Is it still necessary to use the RAD Brightener before using RAD solid color stain?
No need.
Moved into this house almost exactly a year ago. Deck looked worn but it is only 3 years old, had the deck power washed and stained last fall at this time. It began to wear again pretty quickly. The neighbor says when it was built, they stained it right away which may be part of the problem. What do you suggest based off of these pics? Can I get it looking nice again?
That stain cannot be stripped fully so you may want to look at a solid stain. https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-solid-stain.html
Strip what you can while pressure washing for the prep. Brighten and then cover the rest of the stain with the new solid stain.
Good afternoon. We stained our deck about a week ago. It just rained last night and we are seeing this brown residue streaking all over the deck and will it will not rub off. What can fix this, did we do something wrong? Please advise … thank you!!!
Looks like something from or in the rain is running down the sides as it dries. It does not have anything to do with the stain as it is on top of the stain. Try cleaning it off with a water-based Goof off.
Do you think applying some type of clear sealer over the white stain might help? If so, what kind would you suggest
No, it is not possible to add a clear sealer over a stain nor ould it do anything anyhow to prevent the stains from running or dripping on top.
Do you have any other suggestions?
Since it is coming from above, there is nothing that can stop it. Try touching up the stain and hopefully it does not happen again.
Do you have retailers in the Denver CO area? Thanks!
We do not but we can ship directly to you.
what is the manufacturers warranty
It is on the back label.
We have a 20 year old deck. Pressured washed 2 days ago and ready to apply RAD solid stain. 2-3 boards will need to be replaced because of rotting. Will those new boards accept the solid stain?
The new boards should weather for 3+ months and then prepped prior to applying.
This might be a silly question, but should I prep and stain the underneath side of our deck and stairs? Not for aesthetic reasons, but just to keep the wood in good shape?
No reason.
Hi,
I’d like to avoid using the chemicals of the cleaner and brightener. Can I just sand my two-year-old cedar deck and then apply your stain?
The water-based stain that was used by the contractor wore off in many places just from rain and snow in about four months. Wood that was protected by an overhang still has some stain but it’s quite faded. Will there be poor stain penetration if I just sand it? I assume I should use a pressure washer before sanding.
Thanks.
Mike
Sanding actually reduces the stains ability to soak in. You can sand but do not sand finer than 60-80 grit. When done, thoroughly pressure wash the deck with water to remove any sand dust.
After waiting a few months for my new pressure-treated pine deck to cure, last summer I applied RAD light walnut following the 3 step directions. It has faded in spots and I want to restain. Do I need to strip it, or can I clean-brighten-stain the same as last year?
Just clean, brighten, one coat of stain.
Hi, I’ve ordered one of your kits, but before I start this project, I need to know what to do about some cosmetic deformities in the wood. I’ve included pics.
1. Should I just sand and not worry about using wood putty?
2. For the printed label on the wood and the trial stain applications, do I sand it off?
3. What type of sandpaper?
4. If I use wood putty, will the stain look different on it?
thanks!
1. Wood filler will not work with outside wood.
2. Sand with 60-80 grit.
3. 60-80.
4. It will not stain the putty to blend and will look very bad.
I have a redwood deck installed 12 months ago, never been stained. It is 700 sq ft. including rail and backstop.
I purchased the 5 gallon kit cleaner/restorer.
Do you think this is enough product.
I will have a pressure washer available.
Should I lightly pressure wash first then apply cleaner or just wet it down with a hose.
Apply Cleaner and let solution stand for 20 mins then lightly pressure wash.
Complete the step 1 cleaning before starting step 2.
Apply Brightener with a sprayer leave on for 15 mins and then lightly pressure wash and rinse thoroughly.
I was going to wait till the next morning before applying stain with a brush as it can get hot in the afternoon here.
Do the railing and back stop one day and then the deck the next.
Should I apply to a damp or dry deck ?
You should have enough prep but probably not enough stain.
Wet down first, apply the cleaner, let sit for 10-20 minutes, pressure wash off.
Apply brightener and rinse after 20 minutes.
Damp deck is easier.
One coat of stain or two.
2 light coats applied wet on wet. Make sure stain fully soaks into the wood.
Finally staring my deck project, a couple of questions.
Should I do step 1 and clean the entire deck and railing before step 2 using the brightner.
The instructions say apply the brightner right after cleaning, it may take a couple of hours to complete the cleaning stage.
Then stain the next day. Also if applying a second light coat, how long after the 1st coat, can I walk on it.
Clean all first and then brighten all after. See here about wet on wet application: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
I completed staining the deck last week, still no rain so that”s good. there was a section, a long step that I ran out of brightener so left to complete later. (today). anyway I noticed the instructions on the new brightener are different that the first one I used. This one says to wait 48 hrs + before applying stain, the first one just said 2-4 hours or longer before applying stain. Which is it, because I would like to complete tomorrow.
Also there were some foot prints (see picture) that I didn’t notice after staining, anything I can do about this. This was done about 2 weeks ago.
Also I noticed on the stained deck completed 2 weeks ago, if it’s wet and I wipe off the water some brown stain appears on the rag. see picture.Is this a problem.
I’m using RAD semitransparent cedar stain.
Thanks
48 hours if using a different brand of stain. RAD stain can be applied the same day. Not really possible to fix the footprints once the stain has dried and cured. The brown rub off is not the stain. Not sure what it is. Maybe dirt or grime.
We restored our deck last year. It still looks good but has a few areas of wear. Should we clean and stain it again this year? Will we need to use a brightener? What do you recommend we do yearly to keep it in good shape?
You can clean and recoat now or wait and it in next year. Brighten after to neutralize.
You state prep and stain in the same day but brightener instructions say wait 48 hours before staining please clarify
Wait 48 hours if using a different brand of deck stain. If using the RAD stains, you can stain the same day.
I have stripped and brightened my PT pine deck and plan to stain it with TWP 100 tomorrow. The directions say not to apply it if rain is predicted in the next 48 hours. Finding four days in a row with zero chance of precipitation is a rarity here in Minnesota. What happens if there is a passing shower within the two days after staining?
No issues.
The RAD brightener says to apply the stain within two weeks. The weather may prevent this. If it does, will I have to brighten it again? This is enough to give one ulcers.
Lightly wash with water and brighten the wood again.
Not sure if you’re saying the water brightens it, or I need to use a brightener again.
Wash with water and then apply the brightener again.
Can leftover Brightener that has been mixed be saved to use the next day?
Yes.
can I restore this white cedar playset to its original color?
The cleaner and brightener will remove the gray and then you should stain it with the Restore A Deck Stains.
Last year I stripped the TWP oil-based stain and converted to the semi-transparent water-based dark walnut stain. Everything came out great. Now I want to do a maintenance re-staining with the same dark walnut stain. Do I use a full-strength or weaker cleaning mixture? If weaker, how many oz. to a gallon? Do I need to use a brightener? Finally, do I do one coat or a second wet on wet coat? Thank you.
Just one coat and no need for the brightener this time. Mix cleaner at 1/2 strength (3-4 oz per gallon of water) and light pressure rinse.
What if you need a second coat and the first is already dry?
Best to wait until spring to do this so it can properly soak in and adhere. Light cleaning first,
Hi! I’m trying to figure out what color to paint our treated pine deck. It’s a new deck that’s been sitting for over a year, and is now ready for stain. I’m leaning towards cedar because our house color is a tan with a lot of gray in it, and natural and light walnut seem too yellow. Are my thoughts accurate? 1st pic is house color with light walnut. 2nd pic is house color with cedar. Lighting isn’t good. Third pic is another question. What should I do with the ceiling to our covered deck? I like the color, and it doesn’t get weathered by precipitation. Only by temperatures. Thanks!
Best to get samples as colors will vary based on wood type and age: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-samples/flypage.tpl.html
I did get samples. Pics show light walnut and cedar. Then I have an additional question about the ceiling also listed above
Cedar is a little more “brown” in color if you like that better then yellow. The ceiling will most likely not gray so you can leave it as is if you want.
I already applied the Thompson’s Sealer & Protector product to the steps & rails but not the rest of the deck. I didn’t like the results so started researching & discovered this information & like this better. I want to start over. Can I remove the Thompson’s with just power washing it off? Also, how long will it take to receive this after ordering it? I am in western MI.
You will need a stripper while pressure washing. Brightener after. Shipping takes 1-3 days.
Where is RAD made?
Michigan.
We have two Mahogany decks with stairs (285 sq ft) that badly need refinishing. The wood is approximately six (6) years old. Previously finished with oil based products both transparent and semi trans. such as Thompson, Sikkens’ products, a C2 Fusion product and another recommended finish. Finished two summers ago. I used my Pressure Washer with a Deck cleaning concentrate before finishing also some light sanding.
None of the finishes have stood up to the elements.
Included are a few pictures.
I don’t want to sand the remaining patches of finish off, I would prefer stripping and brightening.
I would appreciate your advice on the best method of restoring the wood. Thank you
Use the stripper with both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Brightener after. Once prepped, use the RAD semi-transparent stain.
Can I order 1- 2.5 gallon jug of RAD stain?
Can Armstrong Clark oil-based stain be applied to damp wood? If not, how long should deck dry before application?
No, it cannot. 48 hours to dry after prep.
I am somewhat confused with the steps to restore an old cedar deck. There is an old old stain on it which I intend to chemically strip and then sand to remove what the stripper did not. My goal is to get the cedar wood restored as close as possible to its light bright original color and then apply a transparent or semi-transparent stain.
My questions:
1. The chemical stripper will presumably raise the PH of the wood which could cause any applied stain to be darker than desired.
Do I need to apply a Brightener, and if so exactly when?
Should I apply it immediately after chemically stripping, but before sanding …. or apply it after the full chemically strip/sanding step is done, or perhaps at both stages? The sanding will take days so if I leave the Brightener application until after it is done, some of the stripper chemicals would presumably remain in the wood for that time.
2. Is there any need to use a Cleaner given that I am restoring the wood by stripping/sanding? If so, when would it be applied?
3. I’m guessing I may need 60-grit sandpaper, perhaps even 40-grit, after the chemical stripping to remove the more difficult remaining stain spots. If I apply the Brightener at some point (before sanding, after sanding, ??perhaps both) do I need to re-sand, and what grit, before applying my stain?
Thanks for your assistance.
1. Yes, you have to apply brightener and as soon as you are done with all the stripping. If you sand, then do the brightener after the sanding instead.
2. No need if stripping.
3. Do not sand after the brightener.
Tony F I just finished cleaning and brightening my new cedar deck (3 months old). It was done in the sun. Did I do it correctly judging from the photos? I will be applying RAD semi-trans natural. I wanted to know if I can proceed or do I have to redo cleaning and brightening. thanks
Looks good to stain.
I just finished stripping my PT pine deck (for the second time), finishing in the dark. Now I need to apply the brightener, but there are some fuzzy areas that I want to lightly sand. Which should I do first?
One other question: both times with the stripper, I spent many hours stripping and pressure washing my not-very-large deck, yet the soapy-looking stripper never appeared to be completely removed. What’s with that? I mean, at some point you’ve got to call it a day!
Lightly sand first. Are you asking about the old stain was not removed or the soap suds from the stripper? If the suds, the brightener neutralizes that.
The latter–suds from the stripper. I didn’t understand that the brightener would take care of this.
Thank you for your help!
Hello,
I plan on staining a new PT pine deck that’s about 4 months old but need to split the work up into multiple days. Can I clean/pressure wash on a Friday and then brighten/stain on Sunday? Or should I do the cleaning and brightening on the same day? I can’t find anything saying how long the brightener neutralizes the deck for.
Thanks!
Jason
You can do either. Brightener neutrlize it permanently so that does not matter.
Excellent. Thanks for the ridiculously fast response!
Do I need to apply Brightener on a newly sanded pressure treated deck? The wood itself is 2 months old and is copper pressure treated wood from Home Depot.
Clean and brighten. See here about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
I have a potential project on old barn wood. The customer wants to keep the “gray” look. I realize there is no way of doing so if it is going to be cleaned. Does RAD have a “gray” transparent stain to match the old barn wood look?
Thank you. Steve
Sorry but no.
Greetings,
I have a 170 sq.ft. covered porch. It is T&G douglas fir, likely about 10 years old. It had a stain and sealer on it. I plan to sand the old finish off completely, to 80 grit. Right now I’m about half done the 50 grit pass. The sanded wood looks like new, it is very bright. I would like to stain with the semi-transparent stain in light walnut.
Questions:
How many coats should I apply, 1 or 2 ‘wet on wet’?
Depending on your answer above, how much product should I buy?
Do I need to clean and brighten with RAD products, or can I rinse with water and then go straight to stain (considering how bright it appears already)?
Is the 80-grit enough, or should I consider 100 grit?
Thank you for your help.
Just one coat after sanding. 1-2 gallons of the stain. Need to clean and brighten the wood to open the pores of the wood after sanding. Do not sand finer than 80.
I placed an order yesterday. Any chance of getting faster shipping? Like, 2-3 days?
Can you store the mixed Stripper/Booster/Thickening gel in a 5 gal container overnight in the event I don’t finish the stripping in one day? Also, can the brightening wait until the next day or should I brighten what I strip immediately?
Yes, you can store it mixed. Best to apply the brightener as soon as you can.
What’s the shelf life for RAD cleaner and brightener? Also for semi transparent stain?
Unmixed, the prep products are good for many years if stored correctly. Same with the stain. Cannot freeze.
3600 sq. ft. of fence (this is total both sides)
Eastern White Cedar
Fence was installed October 2018
Nothing has been used on the fence yet. Was told to let it weather and dry out and to stain in about a year.
Looking to use a sprayer. This will be done in Rhode Island during the month of September 2019 which is typically 70-75F highs and 50-55F lows.
I’m a complete beginner at staining and looking for a product that is durable (ideally 3+ years before I need to reapply) and a product that will need limited steps for reapplication.
Hello,
Prep first with our RAD Cleaner/ Brightener Kits and then stain with the RAD Semi-transparent stain. It will last 3-6 years for a fence. Easy to reapply as needed down the road.
Thank you for the reply. It is recommended to only apply one coat to new wood and a second coat 12-18 months after. Do I need to clean and brighten again?
Are there any quantity discounts? I saw that you had recommended to someone doing 3800 sq. ft. of fencing 30-35 gal but that was 2 coats.
Is this fence wood rough sawn or smooth cut?
Smooth cut
Could you post a picture?
can you apply with a HVLP sprayer, such as a wagner flexio 3000?
The Semi-transparent stain, yes.
Well my wife read this and noticed “taupe” in the 2nd sentence. I have no idea why except embarrassment, damn’! CYPRESS please. If you need me to call, please let me me know.
Call office in the am for an exchange and see here for the policy: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Store-Policies/refund.html
I receive my order for six (6) gallons of solid stain. However I received white rather than the taupe I intended. I checked the order and it does specify classic white. So I went back and checked the entering process and again got white even though I checked cypress. When I entered and doubled checked cypress, cypress was entered correctly. Long story short I need cypress and to return the white. I’m reasonably sure the mistake was due to my error. Can you arrange for me to return the white stain and send me the cypress and bill me as you deem fair.
The reason for my delay lay in informing you is due to my waiting on the weather appropriate for staining and had stored ( in A/C controlled space) without checking. Again, my error.
ASAP
Can you store the mixed Stripper/Booster/Thickening gel in a 5 gal container overnight in the event I don’t finish the stripping in one day? Also, can the brightening wait until the next day or should I brighten what I strip immediately?
I didn’t get a response to my questions
I am re-staining a 7 year old deck 200 sq ft. that has had various water-based transparent stains applied over the years; Flood, Sikkens, PPG. 2 years ago the entire deck was sanded down to the bare wood and the PPG stain was applied. I would now like to try RAD products. I want to order Stripper (plus both additives), 1 gal of Brightener and 1 gal of semi-transparent stain. I do not need the cleaner, correct?
No, you do not need the Cleaner.