We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
we are planning on staining our deck tomorrow(saturday). they are now calling for rain most of sunday starting in the morning. the temps will fall in the low 40’s during the evening(60’s during day). Will it be ok to do it tomorrow or should we wait. its starting to get colder & want to get it over with. thanks
You can stain tomorrow.
I have a huge deck reno project started. I have no idea when it was last stained, maintained, but I’ve replaced a wall and some boards due to rotting. I believe it will measure between 1800-2000 sq. ft. What other prep would you recommend other than the stripping/cleaning/brightening? Also, I would really like to stain it gray, but you do not offer that option. Can I use your prep then another product to stain it? I’m attaching pictures of the entire deck plus cans of stain I found that were left by the prior owner of the property. I’m planning on buying a sprayer as this job is so big. Any advice as to preferred types also welcome. Thanks.
Yes, strip, clean, and brighten for prep. For a gray option, try Armstrong Clark in Driftwood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Armstrong-Clark-Stain-5-Gallon.html
Thanks for the recommendation!
You will have no issues using the AC Driftwood on this deck. If you want to exchange, you would have to call the office on Monday. Our exchange policy can be found here: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Store-Policies/refund.html
So, while scrolling through your page to gather instructions on how to use your product I stumbled across the page that has RAD solid stains, and that you do have on in gray. I have already ordered and received the Armstrong clark driftwood stain, but as my deck is in the shade and always damp, the RAD solid stain would actually be the better option for my deck. I really wish this would have been recommended instead. How can I go about returning the unopened box with the gray armstrong stain and ordering the solid gray instead?
Sorry, one more question…. the deck is actually 309 SqFt. I had measured the bench and the sides of the deck to be another 57 sq ft. I noticed your note in the Stain coverage and it seems that you have added enough to cover the edges, rails and bench. Does that mean if I want to do two coats, that I should get three gallons? I was looking at the kits you sell, thinking I would get the stripper/brightener and 2 stain gallons, then I would add an additonal gallon stain. Would that be enough?
Thanks!!
You will need about 3 gallons for two coats applied wet on wet.
I lied…a few More questions. I live in SW Michigan. Getting a warm day is gonna be tough, but I need to complete this project this fall. I just received my order (the whole stripping kit & stain) from you.
1.Can I strip and brighten in one day and then wait another day, hopefully within a week, to go straight to the staining step? Will do two coats. Do I need to do anything to the deck right before I stain if I do it this way? Rinse/pressurewash/just sweep…..?
2. I see there is a note in my box that says do not start staining if weather is expected to drop below 45. Our forecast looks like 50-57 as highs and at lows at night, down to 30-40s.
Can I do the strip and brighten during day….assuming it will go down to 30-40 at nite, then go to the staining…again the daytime of mid 50s with it reaching low again at nite?
3. I ordered your stain brush to apply stain. Can I use it on both coats? Will take the stain down into the gaps btwn the boards? If not, how do I best get those covered?
I appreciate your help!
Thanks
1. Yes, you can do this. Just blow it off first with a leaf blower.
2. Yes, but cannot drop below freezing the first night after staining.
3. You can use it for both coats. Not sure if it will get between the boards fully but usually will get down at least a 1/4 inch.
We were planning on using a airless sprayer to apply stain then immediately go over with brush to blend in evenly(or is that a waste of time?) Also do you all recommend to rub stain off with rags after 2nd coat
to make sure no excess? if so, how long after 2nd coat is applied before you do that? Thank you for your time.
You can spray and back brush. Only remove excess if does not soak in after an hour or so. Make sure to saturate all oily rags in water and lay flat to dry outside when done.
We put in a deck with treated wood about a year ago. We power-washed it last week with Restore-a-Deck cleaner (worked great!) and today applied Restore-A-Deck Natural Semi-transparent stain/sealer. It looks gorgeous! But I under-shopped. We only had enough for one coat on half the deck. I need 3 more gallons to finish and to do 2nd coat. I would love to be able to do by Thursday of this week when the weather will still be perfect. I don’t see an option to pay an upcharge to get it here by Wednesday. Might that be possible?
You would have to call the office to do this. BTW, second coats need to be wet on wet, not wet on dry. Best to not do another coat now since it dried. Just finish the one coat. You can do another coat if needed next year.
Have a ~300 sq foot deck that probably hasn’t been stained in 10 years and do not know the wood type. No access to power washer, see pictures for current condition of wood. Water does not bead in any spots. What do you recommend to weather-proof and make nice again? Any specific tools?
Use the RAD Stripper/Brightener kit for the prep. Stain with the RAD semi-transparent stain.
I’m trying to redo my deck this fall, I live in SW Michigan. I need your guidance. Exact measurements added up to be 364 sq ft (to include bench, floor and side). I do not know how old or what kind of wood, or what is already on it. I could not find any stain stripper locally (won’t use behr), so I used Olympic deck cleaner and pressure washed (I used too much pressure). Do I need stripper, brightner, then stain? Do I need to pressure wash again or sand? Do you have any other ideas? I also have a bottle of Defy Brightener that is unopened. Thanks!
Strip and brighten this for prep. You can pick up products at our Bloomfield Hills location.
1. So I will need to order online, as I live over 2 hours away from that location. From the looks of this photo, do you expect I will need the additive and the gel added when I strip? Can you please help me figure out EXACTLY what to order from you guys? Again it is a total of about 364 sqft.
2. Will I ever need to pressure wash again during this process, or will a hose with a light pressure attachment work? Will the regular RAD strip work, or do I need to get the RAD additive and gel?
3. Can you please give me a step by step? with the look of those pics, do you expect I can just strip, brighten and immediately stain? Will there be any sanding involved for this restoration?
Thank you so much for your help!!!! Your site is so informative and helpful.
1. 1 RAD Stripper/Brightener Kit plus both additives.
2. You need a pressure washer.
3. No need to sand. Strip, brighten and the stain same day or next day.
15 yr. cedar deck in Atlanta, full afternoon sun. We have used SW deck cleaner and Revive brightener. Sanded last year, all previous finish removed. It was grey, so we cleaned and brightened. When the wood is wet it is the perfect color. Can we now use a RAD natural on it or do we have to use your cleaner/brightener? It is still pretty grey. Like other wood…will the light color just bring out the way it looks wet?
love your site!
You should prep with our products to be safe and make sure it is done correctly. The Natural color is similar to a wet look.
Thank you. One more (I hope) question.
AFTER staining with semi transparent RAD what is the maintenance? I read that when first sign of grey appears you need to clean and reapply. Does that mean cleaner and brightener or just cleaner…no neutralizing?
Clean and recoat as needed. Brightener as well to neutralize.
We have a deck (pressure treated pine) installed in January 2019 – Athens, Texas area.
The deck has never been stained. Do we need the cleaner and brightener prior to staining or just power wash prior to staining?
Cleaner and brightener while pressure washing.
I sanded my 8 year old redwood deck, used the RAD cleaner, brightener and light walnut semi-transparent stain. I am happy with the results. I will do a second coat next year.
Hi I just finish installing a new Red Wood Cedar 300 sq.ft. Deck ( Sept.30th ). The cedar was kiln dry to less than 10% of humidity. I live in Quebec Canada so very rough winter climate.
Q1 : For staining with RAD semi-transparent what should I do ?? Should I left the deck cure/weather during fall & winter and prep/stain it in May next year or Can I already do it in 2-3 weeks ? What would you recommend for best results knowing that winter here is very hard ?
Q2 : Either way, does the Prep ( RAD Cleaber followed by Brightner ) is the same ?
Thanks in advance
Addl pics
1. See this about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Do in Spring.
2. Yes.
Help! Just finished staining half of our deck today… followed all the directions using stripper and brightened before staining. Dark Walnut. Wet on wet application. The deck is now dry to the touch but is very blotchy. Some places it did not adhere properly. Not new wood. 5 year old pine previously stained with I don’t know what…
Did we apply too heavily with the sprayer? Waited about 45 minutes between coats.
Should we wait till Spring to apply another coat of Semi Transparent or should we re-coat with your solid stain to even it out? Should we try to spot sand the places not adhering? Just read here today this stain will not stick to “stainable wood filler”… UGH…
It looks like you did not remove all of the previous stain fully. Can you send pictures of the unstained areas?
The one picture is of the next part of the deck we have not cleaned the old stain off yet. The other is of the stripped and brightened side we completed yesterday. I can assure you there was NO old stain left in this area…We are not tackling the front edges yet. BTW, we live in central Florida. I want to fix this as soon as possible. I am so frustrated, I just want to end it all with the solid stain… ??♀️
At this point, you could pressye wash to remove the stain the did not adhere due to the over application. Just the loose stuff. Applying a solid stain will cover it all and make it look eve,
How soon could I cover with your solid stain?
You can do now or in Spring.
Thank you for all the help… Just a couple more questions…
1. Can I use my left over semi transparent stain over the solid in a couple of years when it is time to brighten? If so, what is the prep? Just clean, pressure wash then stain? (I hate to throw away 3.5 gallons of the Semi)
2. I have 750 sq. ft. of decking. How much solid stain should I purchase?
1. No, you cannot apply a semi-transparent over a solid stain.
2. Fro two coats about 5-7 gallons.
And how many coats?
2 coats.
Additional pics
Last week, before I found this site, I cleaned and power washed my 2-year-old, 400 SF, never stained cedar deck with Cabot Wood Cleaner. Here are some after cleaning pictures. Are the lighter/white areas furring? Do I need to sand the deck before staining, re-clean, brighten or am I OK to just go ahead and stain? Thanks.
Looks okay to stain.
Hi –
– restoring cedar floor within screened-in porch
– 340 sq ft
– 35yr old
– last stained 9yr ago with Cabot semi-transparent
– have access to pressure washer
– I assume use of RAD Stripper, Cleaner, &semi-transparent stain
– concerned about avoiding discoloration to screen walls/ posts during the stripping & brightening process
– special step to address wood filler to patch knot holes (pic)?
recommendation on process / products?
-Strip and brighten is correct.
-It will not harm the white paint.
-Wood filler does not work for exterior wood. Do not use it.
Update: Very happy with results!
1. Clean
2. Brighten
3. Stain – 2 coats semi-transparent
Porch floor has never looked better in 30 years!
My primary challenge was inability to rinse the cleaner as thoroughly as would have liked due to porch structure- tongue in grove & floor to ceiling screens reduced drainage effectiveness.
Ended up using only 50% of the purchased stain. Extra 2.5gal available for sale.
RAD products ???
Can color pigments be added to the deck stain product to make it darker, such as a dark gray?
Sorry, it cannot.
I had a new deck and applied 3 coats this spring. My deck is in full sun for spring and summer months. Half of my deck looks like it could use another application. I am wondering if I should power was and then apply or if I could just apply another coat of original application. I live in about an hour north of NYC
3 coats and new wood using the RAD Semi-transparent stain? You cannot do this to new wood. See this for tips: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Did you follow all the directions in the above article? Let it weather, prep, and only 1 coat of stain the first year? If not, you will probably have over application failure so best to not apply more now.
It rained quite a bit last night. Wood is still pretty wet. I know instruction say to mist deck before applying and keep it wet but should I wait a day or two before cleaning and brightening with RAD?
Also, if it were to rain the day for a day or two after cleaning and brightening, could I still apply oil base stain after the deck dries out or do I have to clean and brighten again?
No need to wait. You can prep now. Rain does not harm the prep. Just let it dry for 48 hours before staining.
Hey,where do I find the Product Data Sheet or Safety Data Sheet,thanks.
We have a roughly 400 SF deck that has all new pressure-treated pine deck boards and railings. We have already ordered a RAD semi-transparent stain kit and will be applying it soon. The majority of the wood has been weathering for 4 months. The balusters we are using are pre-finished powder coated aluminum from Deckorators. (description: Powder-coated with AAMA2604-compliant material, which provides five times the outdoor exposure and twice the humidity exposure as AAMA2603). Yes, we have access to a pressure washer.
Do we need to remove/ tape off these balusters prior to cleaning/ brightening/ staining?
The prep should not harm them but always test first. You cannot get the stain on the metal balusters.
Can I use the semi-transparent stain on top of a wood hardener such as PC-Petrifier from PC-products – what about on top of a wood filler (and what is the best kind? latex or something else?)
if none of the above is good – what do you suggest to harden the wood before applying the semi transparent sstain?
No, you cannot use it o top of a wood hardener and it will not work with wood filler. You cannot harden the wood first and then stain over it.
Instead of semi-transparent, could you use a RAD solid-stain for this application, and would the tone show consistently between areas of wood vs wood filler?
It should show consistent in color.
should I use a paint sprayer to apply the stain. Or what is the best way to apply the stain.
You can spray, use a deck stain pad, or a brush when applying.
We have 1-yr-old cedar tone pressure treated deck (950 sq feet) around semi buried swimming pool and hot tub. We used SW semi-transparent oil-based stain in redwood last May. Our contractors applied 2 coats and it never dried. They stripped it but a few places need more stripper. Will your solid stain product work on this and what kind of prep is needed? Also can an anti-slip additive be added to your solid stain product? The deck is very slick when wet.
You can apply the solid stain over this as long as you remove any peeling stain. You cannot add an anti-slip grip.
Just posted a couple of pics. The lighter areas are just the sun—the deck itself is uniform color.
You would need the stripper than the brightener. About 3 gallons of stain.
I have a deck, 256 Sq Ft., last stained with semi-transparent oil-based stain 4 years ago. It has worn very evenly. I also have a power washer. Could I use the restore-a-deck cleaner and brightener, or do I need the stripper? Also, would 2.5 gallons of your semi-transparent natural stain be about right? Thanks.
We have a 15 year old cedar deck…some replaced boards so uneven color. It was stripped, sanded with power sander last year. Currently grey. We plan to clean and brighten then stain with semitransparent RAD. Can we mix colors? I’m afraid dark walnut will be too dark. Light walnut on pine looks great…but my cedar tends to go a little too red. Any suggestions for mixing? Will the natural make the wood turn grey again? Why do I need 2 coats? I’m afraid the cedar tone will be quite yellow. I’m looking for a color similar to light walnut but not red. It’s been in the high 90s here for weeks…can I stain when leaves start falling?
Yes, you can mix colors. Mixing ratios would be up to you though. Natural is tinted, not clear. Best to get some samples to test: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-samples/flypage.tpl.html
Leaves will not harm the stain.
Yea. One more question. The natural does have some degree of UV protection? If I mix it with dark walnut it won’t grey quickly. That was my concern. The two clear has no UV protection. Thank you.
The Natural is tinted and will have UV protection.
I have a deck to do in the Adirondacks, the temps are getting down in the 40s at night now. my question is what are the temp specs for your products and would it be a better Idea to just wait for spring at this point?
50-90 degrees is the temp range. Spring may be better.
20 y/o redwood deck. Previous product last placed 3 years ago. Sanded down to bare wood 1 month ago. What type of preparation needed before staining with RAD Cedar stain. Thanks.
Prep with the Cleaner and Brightener kits.
Do I need to seal the deck after using RAD as per this question and answer on your FAQs? FYI – I live in New England with harsh winters and hot summers. If I don’t need to seal it I’d rather not.
“I used Restore-A-Deck and it looks great! Now I want to seal in the beauty and protect it from the elements. What do you recommend?
Answer: Allow the wood to dry for three to four days in direct sunlight (75+degrees F) Pick a quality sealer from a reputable dealer. We suggest the Woodrich Timber Oil, Hardwood Wiping Stain or Amstrong Clark. “
No, it is not even possible to apply a sealer over a deck stain.
How dry to boards need to be before they can be stained? The impression given (if you can clean and stain in the same day) is that stain can be applied to damp boards. Yes, or no?
The stain can be applied to damp wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
Do you solid stains repel water? Thank you.
Yes, they shed water.
I have two decks;1.) 1600 sf w/built in benches on 4×4 posts and no railings.
2.) 710 sf and no railings.
The figures include the benches and supports and 6 inch perimeter boards.
The decks were made of redwood about 20 years ago and are in good condition. We just bought the house last November. No stain present and I don’t know what or when sealer was last applied. Just a nice grey patina. We’re in the California Sierra foothills at 2400 feet elevation, lots of sun, hot in the summer, some snow in the winter, pine and oak trees. I’m interested in the semi-transparent stain and cleaner (light walnut). What is your coverage rate? I’ll use a pressure washer prior to the application. Your products receive good reviews and I like that it’s water based.
Thanks for your help,
Terry
For prep, use both the RAD Cleaner and then the RAD Brightener. Coverage for two coats applied wet on wet is about 100-125 sq feet per gallon. Being it is old and dried out, it most likely needs the two coats.
I have ROD samples. Any tips to application on sanded old redwood
No tips needed. Just apply the samples with a rag or brush.
I recently purchased the RAD cleaner, brightener and stain. I initially pressure washed, then applied the cleaner cut in 1/2. It seemed to work fine. We cut the brightener in half, thinking the ratio would work fine since we cut the cleaner. Although it may have lightened a very little bit, we didn’t really see the magic. Do you have to use the brightener at full strength?
You should use at full strength. Also, the brightener is designed to neutralize and lower the pH balance after the cleaner raises it, darkening the wood. If you used the cleaner at half strength then the pH would have not darkened the wood that much.
We have a 3 year old cedar deck in a rainy part of the PNW. Half is covered by an upper floor deck and half open to the elements. It has never had a stain or coating on it. We need something to resist slipping as it gets like an ice rink when wet especially a long damp winter. Can we add a product to help with anti-slip properties and what is the best way to clean the green build-up? Is bleach a bad idea? We would like a semi transparent finish not a paint if possible.
You cannot add an anti-slip into a penetrating stain. No need. Never use bleach on a deck. Prep with our RAD Cleaner/Brightener Kits.
We had a contractor stain our new PT Pine deck and railings. We used the solid classic white stain on the railings. The deck is in full sun and two coats were applied. I notice today that there are spots and splotches of green on the top railing. What do you think the cause is? We did have a heavy dew last night and the splotches wipe off with a damp rag. Thanks
It is not from the stain but from something from your environment. Not sure what is causing it.
About to pull the trigger on this, but had one question. My PT pine deck is a little over 1 year old with direct sunlight all day. Would I still apply stain like new wood directions(1 coat) or will I need to do 2 coats?
2 light coats after prep.
So I started stripping our the deck at our new to us house because it seemed like the existing stain had become worn and was greyed. As I started stripping I started realizing that it might have been a solid grey toned stain that was supposed to be grey? I found evidence of old oil based semi-transparent stains in the garage and figured one of those had to be it and that it had just weathered and was old. However, as I started stripping I started seeing the evidence of other old stains that had been previously partially stripped and things started looking rather ugly. The flooring cleaned up alright however my railings have lots of blotches and strain colors/patterns from the years of previous stains. Also, so far I’ve had a difficult time getting the grey stain off of some of the verticals.
I’m considering doing a two tone if I cannot get the railing looking better. I have purchased more stripper and the booster and gel to try this weekend. Is that worth my effort or might I be better off just going with a solid stain on the verticals?
Planning to use Dark Walnut for the flooring. Was thinking white or desert taupe for the railing. Any inputs on which combo looks better?
I’ll have about 95 feet of railing to do. How many gallons would you estimate would be needed?
The pics of the deck are after having stripped and before brightening. Planning to brighten this weekend and then stain. I’m hoping the flooring will brighten up and look decent with a dark stain since it does have many imperfections. Am I on a good track here?
Thanks so much!
Go over all wood again with the Stripper and both additives and assess then if you want/need a two-toned deck or not. You will get more off. About 2-3 gallons for the solid stain if you end up doing this for the rails.
We would love to see the final pictures after staining.
I have pressure treated 1 yr. old. Some areas are green. Do these need additional prep before brightener and light walnut semi transparent stain? Thank you.
You will need to use the RAD Step 1 Cleaner and pressure washing for prep then the Step 2 Brightener.
Constructed in 2005 of redwood, my p0rch with 5 steps and railing is 83 sq. feet. It has been pressure washed, then stripped and cleaned using Behr’s Wood Stain and Fish Stripper and All-in-One Wood Cleaner.Do I need to also use the RAD Brightener before applying RAD Wood Deck Stain in Natural?
Yes, correct.
I just received my cleaning, brightener a a stain. The deck is sanded and I am ready to go but didn’t get the free brush. Can you please send me the brush?
Hello, the brush is not free. Under the brush order, it says it will ship free with no shipping charges if you order stain. That does not mean the brush is free completely.
We are getting ready to stain our deck. The deck and stairs total 660 square feet of cedar, a combination of new and 20 year old boards. The old boards have never been stained. The railing length is 84 feet, and is new pressure treated pine wood. The deck was recently pressure washed.
We wonder how it would look if we stained the flooring (either light walnut or cedar) and solid stained the railings, using coastal gray. Can you tell from the photos if that combination will work with the house color? Also your recommendation on quantity and application method( such as roller, brush, etc.)
Yes, a two-toned look would look nice. 6- 7 gallons for the floors. 2-3 gallons for the rails.
Hi, I’m interested in your RAD semi-transparent stain in light walnut color for my raised deck in Canada
The deck is about 500 sq feet, not including the underneath frame and tall posts
Q1: What is the best method to completely remove the old product?
Q2: Can the RAD product be easily re-applied every few years? – without having to completely remove?
Here is some data as posted to the deck stain help forum (with 2 pictures)
Deck Location State: Montreal, QC
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Snow/ice
Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: Only minor underneath deck
Reason for Previous Stain Failure: Peeled and turned LIGHT in color (only horizontal surfaces ever failed)
Previous Stain Brand and Type of stain: CIL Woodcare Distinction semi-transparent tan base
Raised deck, new June 2016
First application Summer 2017 with CIL Distinction
Failure after winter (see photo) – Contractor did apply in hot conditions
Failure only on horizontal surfaces (ice/snow/full sun)
Second application Fall 2018 with CIL Distinction
CIL rep told us we had to completely remove the product first
Extreme prep – deck wash, sanding, apply on cool cloudy day on dry deck
Failure after winter (see photo)
Failure only on horizontal surfaces (ice/snow/full sun)
For prep, use the RAD Stripper/Brightener Kit: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Kits-Best-Prices.html
RAD stain can be cleaned and recoated as needed.
Sorry if this is a duplicate post. I have a 25+ yr old deck. Don’t know what type of wood but I’ve used Sikkens Cetol Deck on it since 1998. I want to change to RAD. Recommended process? Thanks.
Post a picture of current condition.
Foto uploaded. Thanks.
Use the RAD stripper with both additives and then pressure wash off. RAD Before Brightener after.
What should the day and night temperatures be for restore a deck optimum results, as it is getting late in the year for our climate.
When applying the stain, 55-90 degrees. Night time temps do not matter.
This spring I used your deck cleaner
followed by deck brightner then coated
with your sealer. The covered portion still looks great but the area that gets sun
looks terrible (see attached photos).
What can I do to restore the deck?
Looks dirty. Clean the deck with the RAD Cleaner and then apply one coat of the stain. You can do this now or in Spring.
I have a 16×16 deck that is about 30 years old (Southern Pine PT). I recently pressure washed, wood is still in good shape, down to bare wood with no stain or paint. Railing on 2 sides is just top and bottom rail. I’m not interested in showing grain so I’m considering RAD solid Cypress. Was wondering if I need 2 coats or is one coat sufficient. Also, how much do I need, I live in Western NY, is this the right product for me. Thanks.
You will need 2 coats. We would need a total sq footage for all wood that is to be stained for help with amount needed?
Discrepancy?
The Instructions on the back of the 2# package state, “Wait 48+ hours after using Step 2 Brightener before applying stain.”
How can one do the complete process in one day as advertised, #1 Clean or Strip, #2 Brightener, #3 Stain if the package instructions state wait 48+ hours?
48 hours if using a different brand of stain that is not RAD stain.
We have cedar plank siding on our building. 3 years old. We have used Thompson Clear water seal. Re-sealed 16 months ago. We have a power washer. Im guessing its about 800 sqft.
Strip off the Thompsons and the brighten the wood. About 7-8 gallons of the stain.