We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
I need to refinish a 700sq foot redwood deck + about 100ft of railings. Deck is 20+ years old. Redone 3 years ago with Armstrong Rustic Brown. 1) What shade of RAD stain do you suggest to get a similar color? 2) Do I need to use the stripper? 3) Would it be easier to stick to Armstrong stain and use the RAD cleaner/brightener or same effort? 4) any other suggestions?
Strip and brighten for prep. Using the RAD or AC will give similar results. The closest color is the Dark Walnut in RAD.
Hi, I was planning on using dark walnut to stain the deck once we cleaned and brightened it. Will the color of the new wood compared to the old wood be significantly different once stained?
Yes, new wood is always going to be lighter as it is less absorbent.
Would it matter if I put an extra coat on the new wood? Would that make it much closer to the same color of the old wood?
No it will not darken it to blend.
What is your opinion on what was previously on this deck and the best means to remove it in order to go with a semi-transparent stain? The wood is cedar, and sq ft is 340. The pictures were taken while wood was still wet which shows much more contrast between the stain and the worn areas.
Looks like a solid stain. I do not believe you can strip this so sand will be required to get it all off.
Best means to sand, drum, belt, orbital? 60 grit?
60 to 80 grit. Any power sander will work.
Square Footage of Area to be Restored: our wraparound porch is 81 ft in total length and 6.5 ft wide; So total 571 + 81 feet (for a front fascia Baird). house faces southwest
• Type of wood if known: Unknown
• Approximate Age of Wood:20 years
• If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based): Unknown…it appears to be a semi stain covered with a Forrest green solid paint.
• If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained: maybe 18 years
• Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):Deck
• Do you have access to a pressure washer:Yes
• Miscellaneous Info: Deck is located in Missouri. Full sun a good majority of the day. We just stumbled upon your website and are interested in your products. Im realizing we have maybe been doing some things incorrectly….this is all new to us… We’ve been trying to prepare the wood for days and days. So far methods have included a hand scraper, a product called Citra Strip (only one one small area) a power washer, and my husband has sanded one complete side down with 60- 80 grit sand paper with a belt and/or palm sander. Since the deck is getting older, we would like to try to do a solid stain that will cover and repair the wood and provide more UV protection along with a long-lasting finish. We would like to go with the Coastal Gray solid stain you offer. How much do you suggest we get? Also, with regards to preparing the wood, please offer advice. Do we need to get the cleaner, stripper, brightener?? I’m not for sure now if we should continue the sanding process. AND, On the sanded part what treatment do you suggest we do to “open the pores” of the wood again? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
The stripper will not work on this. Best to power sand it all off. Clean and brighten for final prep. about 4-5 gallons of the solid stain for two coats.
Request guidance for wood fence restoration:
1. Square footage: 2,262 (377 linear feet x 6 feet tall)
2. Type wood: White Pine
3. Age of wood: 10 years ( installed fence in May 2010)
4. Previous stain: Treated with boiled linseed oil mostly yearly (approx. 8 times)
5. Last time stained: 2019 (April)
6. Wood type: Fence
7. Access to pressure washer: Yes
8. Photos – Fence in photos 3 and 4 have been pressure washed this past week. Other areas have not.
Thank you for your time and recommendations. I prefer a natural look for the wood so I would prefer no coloration in the stain, if possible.
The cleaning looks good. The stain must be tinted for protection from UV graying. The Natural would look similar to a clean wet look.
Thank you. Then it would be feasible to apply RAD this year to the fence despite the several applications of linseed oil?
As long as the wood is porous you should go okay.
Great. When do you anticipate you will be able to fulfill new orders?
Hopefully within a week.
Just a quick follow-up; photo Fence 3 is an area that was already pressure washed but still has a lot of blackened areas (there are other similar areas on the fence). The pressure washer would not clean it off. Will your cleaner do the trick or does this need to be stripped instead?
That discoloration is internal. Stripper will not help by the brightener may.
Is it safe to use OxiClean to clean my deck after using RAD 3 step stain on it 1 year ago without harming the stain
No, it may remove the stain.
I used your Light Walnut color stain two years ago. I need to rework part of the deck. I couldn’t find that color in what you sell now. What’s the closest you have to it?
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-5-gallon/flypage.tpl.html
• Square Footage of Area to be Restored: 511
• Type of wood if known: Unknown
• Approximate Age of Wood:16 years
• If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based): PPG Transparent Penetrating Wood Oil PPG1130V
• If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:3 years
• Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):Deck
• Do you have access to a pressure washer:Yes
• Miscellaneous Info: Deck is located in Indiana. Full sun a good majority of the day. We pressure washed and stained this deck 3 years ago with the above listed stain. However, at that time we did not fully strip the old stain and the new was applied with a sprayer on a hot sunny day. We did not back brush or roll the stain in further after spraying. Since the deck is getting older, we would like to try to do a solid stain that will cover the wood and provide more UV protection along with hopefully a long-lasting finish. We would ideally like to change the color to something lighter as well such as the Coastal Gray solid stain you offer. So far we have pressure washed with an all-purpose deck and house cleaner and you can see the results in the pictures (unfortunately it was raining today when I went to take the pictures). None of the previous stain seems to be peeling, but the pressure washer did not remove nearly as much as we hoped. Would love to not have to apply stripper, but not sure if that is an option for us. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
It would be best to strip this so the new coating adheres better.
Thank you. Are there any other options as far as types of stain we could use or will we need to strip no matter what? How much of your stripper/brightener would you recommend?
Strip no matter what. One kit.
Thank you again! After stripping, how do you think the horizontal planks would do with a semi-transparent stain and the railings solid like you have shown in your two-tone photo?
Yes.
I stained my PTP deck last June (2019) for the first time using a combination RAD Dark Walnut Semi + Solid White on the stair railing after 9 months of weathering on new wood as it was installed Oct. 2018. I want to do a maintenance coat this year and I assume I need to Clean+Brighten first? How much of each do I need for a 396 sq.ft. deck + 21 sq.ft. pad+4 steps? For staining – I have 3.5 gallons of Semi stain + 1.5 gallons of solid from last year. Will that be OK to use this year and will it be enough to cover? One or two coats on horizontal for maintenance coat? Thank you for your advice.
Clean and brighten first. Just one coat of stain. You should have enough stain. I would not worry about coating the verticals, they are fine.
Thank you for your advice. One question wasn’t answered. How much of the Cleaner & Brightner will I need to purchase this year for the project?
One kit.
We just cleaned our deck and have only used transparent sealers in the past. Is the deck ready for the transparent sealer or should I do more? It has turned grey in the area where the sun hits afternoon (Iowa). I hope your product will protect this.
Ann
Post a picture of the prep.
Can I apply the solid stain (white) over FlexGlue? Some areas have been repaired with FlexGlue that cannot be removed.
It would probably be fine.
I put one coat of RAD Solid Stain on my deck last summer. Looks great but now it’s time for a second coat. Deck is lightly power washed clean and ready to apply. Can I roll the RAD SS on as is or do I need to dampen or otherwise prep it first?
It should be ready to stain if cleaned.
Hi, I have a 26 ft long x 14 ft wide treated lumber deck that is 40 years old and still in decent shape. The deck boards are a combination of 2″ x 4″ and 2″ x 6″ treated lumber placed every other board. The deck has always been stained using Olympic Maximum Acrylic/Oil formula (I believe this is a water based product as it cleans up with water) in a dark brown shade. I will probably replace the deck boards in the next couple of years, but I would like to re-stain one more time. Should I use deck stripper followed by a high pressure wash and then a brightener (is that needed) and then apply your semi transparent deck stain? I would like to go with a lighter shade of brown if that is possible. Your thoughts? Thanks!
Post a picture or two.
Hello neighbor! My deck: worked on it 2014; clean/stain 2015, 2017, 2018 and 2019. My fences: worked on it 2018; hasn’t used for clean/stain. See photos #1, #2 and #3.
(A) – roof, floor, basement = 197 sf; (B) – floor, basement = 86 sf; C – stair floor = 14 sf
Roof – 40 rise 76 run = 85 diag x 16′ x 2
Stairs – (a) 3′-6″ x 3′ = 10/5 sf; (b) 3′-6″ x 8′ = 28 sf
Railing – 3′ x 92′
Fences – (a) 5′ x 13′-6″; (b) 5′ x 11′-6″; (c) 5′ x 7′-6″
Should I use a pressure washer throw-out the whole area (or which area(s) should I use?)? From Restore-a-deck, should I use #1, #2 and/or #3? I have 3 1-gallon for #3 (see photo #4). For fences, should I use #1, #2 and/or #3 and use Armstrong-Clark (see photo #4).
Thanks a lot for the help!
I am not understanding what you are explaining. Please be more specific as to what stain is on the deck currently and what stain you planing on using next. Same with the fence.
Sorry, I’m wondering what the best to re-clean the deck areas. Should I use power washer first? Do I need #1, #2 and/or #3? Then, do I need to use the Armstrong-Clark stain after? Based on the size of the deck, how much should I buy? Thanks
What stain is on the wood currently? AC? What is the total sq footage added up?
Yes, AC. Total sq ft = 658 sf
Use the Cleaner and Brightener for prep. Use the AC after. Just one coat. 3-4 gallons should be enough.
How much semi transparent stain do I need for a 1300 square foot new deck with some steps. No railing. Thanks. And are you still shipping at this time?
See here about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
About 8-10 gallons for the one coat.
hi, what are the recommended temperatures for application of the stain? Should the temperature be above a certain level during the curing process? In Indiana here, days in the 60’s but evening temps falling into the 40’s. Thanks!
Applying temps of 55-90. Cannot drop below freezing the first night.
Help! We bought a house with a sad deck. We power washed the other day and a lot of flakes came off but not nearly enough. I don’t know anything about this deck! I don’t know if it’s paint or stain or what type of wood. The woods gross and dirty and probably just needs to be ripped out completely but not in the budget right now so I’m trying to figure out what we need to do to refresh it a bit and get a few more years out of it. Attached are pics. It’s about 550 sqft. Any advice would be great!! Beginner DIYers here. Can’t find a company here that will replace boards, strip, and stain it. So gotta try to do it ourselves.
This is a solid stain and it cannot be stripped. You would have to sand it all off if you want to go semi-transparent. The other option is to pro by removing all the loose stain and then apply the RAD Solid Stain over this: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-solid-stain.html
Thank you for your reply! Okay, good to know. We will try sanding it and see how much we can get off. Solid stain sounds fine to me! If we don’t get it all off, just the loose stain, will any color of the solid stain cover it up or do I need a darker one so it goes on evenly over the bare boards and the remaining red stain?
Any color should work but you will need two coats.
Okay so how many of your solid stain jugs will I need to buy?
About 4-5 gallons.
Alright! Thank you! I can do this! If it turns out decent, I’ll make sure to post a review. But no guarantees ?
I will be using the RAD products by your directions, this year. Can I do touch up in following years, if and when needed, and not have to go through the cleaning, stripping, sanding process? How long will this product last without having to do this process again?
You always have to prep when you reapply a deck stain. Typically every 2-3 years.
Urgent– I have cleaned and brightened my deck. I started to stain with unopened stain which I purchased last year. Although the same color, the stain appears much darker and without the reddish tint of last year’s application. Is the stain bad or will it change color as it dries?
It should be fine as long as you did not open it and stored it in a temperature-controlled room. Also, stains do fade after sitting since last year application and yes, it does dry lighter as it cures.
It was stored in the garage but did not freeze. Could this damage the stain?
Only if it froze and even then, it would not change color. It would be clumpy.
Will this remove deck paint?
No. No stripper will remove paint. You will have to sand.
I used a rustic brown colored oil based stain on my PTP deck about 4 years ago. We didn’t love the color and now want to switch to something lighter (maybe the light walnut). I pressure washed a lot of it off, and now plan to strip & brighten as my next steps. I live in SW Ohio and the deck faces southwest with no shade. It gets pounded by afternoon sun and humid summers. It is better to go with oil based again (like TWP), or RAD water based? Which is best for this application? Thank you!
Either would work very well fo you.
Stain initially applied was semi-transparent. Thanks!
My 4 year old 650 square foot cedar deck was previously treated with linseed oil-but no stain. It has been power washed 2 x since the last application.
1) I now plan to stain the deck with RAD semi-transparent stain. Do I prep with cleanser/brightener or with stripper/brightener?
2) Can the brightener to applied by hand with a brush or rag rather than a sprayer
3) Will these products damage the painted wood siding of my house?
4) how much of each product will I need?
1. Cleaner and brightener should work.
2. Spray it on.
3. No.
4. One RAD Cleaner/Brightener Kit. About 5-7 gallons of stain.
How soon can a second coat of semi transparent stain be applied? I messed up and have overlaps.
It has to be applied wet on wet otherwise you cannot apply another coat if it the first has already dried: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
Regarding @Diana’s question
1.The info on the semi-transparent stain states;
“Easy to reapply as needed”. Could you explain what is meant by that if you are not able to apply another coat?
2. I don’t see anything regarding how long you recommend before re-coating, specifically this would apply to New England weather conditions, in direct sun.
1. You cannot apply another coat right after the first has cured. It has to be applied wet on wet if doing two coats. After 6-12 months (or longer) you can clean and reapply another coat.
2. As needed. Every 2-3 years is normal.
Our deck is two yrs old and I do have a pressure washer
That cannot be stripped fully. You will have to sand this to remove it.
Pic
First 3 pics
Thanks, here are some pics.
I do have access to pressure washer
I need to remove Thompsons semi transparent deck stain and selaer that was just applied last year. What do you recommend?
Beginning necessary duties on 1200 sq ft of pressure treated cedar deck/stairs. “New” 7 year old deck/home for us. Previous owner had only used Cabot wood protector product on the decking/stairs. Wood appears to be in good shape, but starting to show age and wear. Can you review sequencing of cleaner, sanding, brightener, and stain application. Would a semi transparent stain be a good idea after having only wood protector ever applied to these decks? Does age of wood/deck affect selection of products?
Post pictures, thanks.
Fro prep, use the RAD Stripper/Brightener Kits. No need to sand unless removing some splinters, etc. Stain with the RAD Semi-Transparent stain. About 10-12 gallons for the 2 coats.
Hi. We recently replaced two sides of our fence and the 3rd side (approx 80’) needs that red coating gone. We bought the house last year and I have no idea when the fence was put up, what type of coating is on it, but I could sure use advice on how to remove the red paint/stain???
That is an opaque/solid stain. You cannot strip this so you would have to recoat with another solid stain color: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-solid-stain.html
I am confused by the instructions on the Brighten container. It says one container makes five gallons and then one cup per gallon. Two containers I used so far had less than four cups.
It is 6-8 oz per gallon. One container for a 5-gallons or you can use about 6-8 oz per gallon.
Hi. We have an older deck. Some of the spindles were replaced, (two days ago),and a new wooden top put on. The older spindles desperately need cleaning. Should we wait three months to clean, Brighten, then stain? Will the spindles match in color since some are brand new wood, and the others have an old stain color on them? Thank you.
Yes. Wait then prep and stain.
…looks like this picture showing partially sanded area did not upload.
…looks like this pic did not go through showing partially sanded area
I am refinishing a deck using repurposed cedar decking. I am unsure of the previous treatment, but a lot of it has worn off and some boards were flipped to underside use, due to cupping or visual defects. My intention is to sand the deck to bring it to a more uniform color, remove the majority of any previous treatment, and some or most of the gray/aging. Once sanded, what is the recommended process for treating this decking with your products? I would like to use semi-transparent Natural or Cedar to finish. Also, with the UV protection in those products, how long can one expect the darkening/graying to be put off in a New England environment with direct sunlight for most of the year? The pictures reflect the current state of the deck, with one corner that has been sanded in 2 of the pictures
You are sanding this too smooth. After done you will need to treat this like new wood. See here for tips: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Wait until late Summer to do the final prep and stain.
I’m little confused by your reply. Is your recommendation not to sand the previous finish, or just to use a rougher grit than the 80 that was used for this corner? I don’t mind treating as new wood, but if there is a better suggestion, please let me know what that is. As far as the timing, late summer, is that related to the particular weather here, or letting the “new wood” age/acclimate?
Also, if you have answers regarding the UV protection from the earlier post, that would be much appreciated.
Sanding is not the proper way to prep exterior wood. At this point, you have sanded the wood too smooth and a penetrating stain will not soak in correctly. You will have to weather the wood now and then do a final prep. Late summer to let the wood season.
I have only sanded a small corner to see how easily the previous finish would come off. Since I have not sanded more that 2 sq ft, perhaps you could advise on the proper way to treat this exterior salvaged wood?
Use this kit while pressure washing: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/order-restore-a-deck/rad-kits-best-price/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/flypage.tpl.html
I have a follow up question to Chris caj string – what grit do you recommend to sand a deck that has existing solid stain/paint and then what prep do you recommend for solid RAD stain?
Do you have to wait for the deck to weather (1-3 months) before prep and stain when sanding? Does a coarser grit of sand allow for same weekend prep and staining?
Thanks.
60 – 80 Grit. Final prep after removal would be RAD Cleaner and Brightener. If you stain the same weekend then only one coat of stain.
how long after sanding until the wood would accept two coats?
A year. Sanded wood is treated like new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Does the same go for RAD solid stain? The online directions for new wood call for: “For the RAD Solid Color Stain, apply 2 coats. Reapply as needed down the road”.
Thanks
The solid stain is different. You can apply another coat after the first coat is dry.
I HAVE SHERWIN WILLIAMS SOLID DECKSCAPES ON MY DECK. WILL YOUR STRIPPER REMOVE THIS STAIN OR SHOULD I LOOK ELSEWHERE FOR STRIPPER .
No stain stripper will remove a solid stain. You will have to sand it off.
Do you sell the solid stain in 5 gallon containers?
We do not.
I did one deck the first day and it turned out perfect. I am applying with a stain pad. The next day, I did the other deck and I have some color variations apparently due to some overlaps. I also think part of the issue is that I was nearer the bottom of the container on the second day and perhaps did not agitate the stain well enough-hense, darker pigments from the bottom of the bottle. What is the best solution? Can I add more stain to the lighter areas or lightly sand off the darker areas and reapply—-what to do? I am using the RAD natural semi-transparent stain.
You cannot spot apply to fix nor can you spot sand and touch up. It will make it look worse. Either strip it off and start over or wait about 6 months and lightly clean and apply another coat to all and to try and even it out.
I have a gallon of TWP 1500 left from last year. I also have a gallon from 2016, can I combine them? In other words, does stain go bad after time?
That would depend on how they were stored and if opened or not?
I have 850 sq ft of unfinished cedar (aged one year). How much stain do I need for one coat? Will also need two of each – cleaner and brightener
About 5-7 gallons for one coat.
Another picture
We have an approx. 600 sq ft deck (including deck, steps and top of railing) consisting of super select and select KDAT Yellowwood. The deck was completed in 2011. A product, ReadySeal stain was applied and has been reapplied, the last time in May,2017. Right or wrong the deck was pressure washed before the last re-staining. I intend to re-stain again. For whatever reasons, several deck areas exhibit a hard shell like surface that I don’t think can be cleaned by normal means. As a test, about 20 sq ft of deck was sanded. Before and after pictures, and a general deck picture are attached. Will your stripper and additives remove the hard shell or is sanding the only recourse? Whatever the solution, can I use your stain or is painting the only option? Thank you for your valuable service. Please advise
Ready Seal is strippable so that should come off but never seen a “hard” shell come from RS. I would suggest stripping it first. Much or all should come off. Sand if needed after. Brightener last. Use the additives.
I live in Minnesota. two years ago a cedar deck was installed and I let the cedar rest for one year before staining. I have only used your product to clean, brighten, and stain(2 applications of stain each time). During the summer it looks great, but after a winter of snow and cold it lifts and peals off. any helpful suggestions
Strip it down to the bare wood and only apply one coat.
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I am sure this has been answered somewhere but i am having difficulty finding an answer. I am going to be staining a fence with the Dark Walnut. Its the basic type of fence from home depot/lowes. Whats the best way to apply it to the fence? Can I use a sprayer?
You can spray but you will need to back brush to ensure it is applied evenly and there are not any drips.
Color does not matter. It is the quantity of orders and the movement not allowing us to have a full workforce.
Thanks. How to you get a Promo Code mentioned on the order page?
Do you have any advice for cleaning/brightening/staining a deck made of kebony? We live in Seattle and there is mold on the underside of the decking but it is low to the ground so we can’t get underneath it to clean it from below. Will your product help minimize mold on the underside of the deck if we apply it to the top of the deck?
We have never used the RAD on this wood type so not sure. It will not stop mold from the underside if applied on top. No product will
I have stripped and brightened the decking. Do I also need to strip the railings or is just brightening OK? I plan to use Espresso solid stain.
Strip and brighten. Brightener alone will not do anything.
I just learned that the original coating was actually deck paint (over pressure treated wood). I was planning on using your solid stain. What do I need to do to prepare the deck? Do I need to remove all the old covering? If I need 2 coats of solid stain, can I put each coat on at a different time?
Cannot tell much from this picture. Can you send a couple of more?
Here are some closer up shots. It looks like I will have to remove the remnants of the deck paint but what is the best way to do that?
Strip off what you can using the Stripper with both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Sand off the rest. RAD Brightener last.
Some of the paint is in grooves. Not sure the Stripper will get that out. What about powerwashing it? Or is there some kind of a stripping tool with a drill I could use? Also, we are planning on using your grey solid stain – do I need a brightener in that case?
You use the pressure washer while stripping. If you are using the solid stain then you do not have to remove all. You can leave the paint that is intact and does not come off with the stripping. The solid stain will cover it.
OK. So use the stripper and power wash loose paint off. Does the solid stain come in 5 gallon buckets or just the one gallon? I can’t find 5 gallons on the website but want to make sure since I have a big deck. Also, can I apply the second coat the next day or does it have to go on while the first coat is not completely dry?
Only come in single gallons. The second coat can go on the same day or next day with the solid stain. The first coat has to be fully dry.
We had to replace a few railings on our huge front porch with treated lumber. We are going to clean and stain the entire porch including railings. Can we go ahead and treat and stain the few boards we have replaced or should we wait until the wood is a few months old? Thanks.
Best to wait a few months and then prep all.