We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
I have had my deck professional stained twice and I have stained it myself every year for the past 6 years with Sherwin Williams Superdeck semi transparent stain (cans pictured). Each year the stain peals off in areas exposed directly to the weather (see picture). What products should I use to strip the stain and restain?
What is on the wood now is not a semi-transparent anymore. It is applied to the point that is 100% opaque and this cannot be stripped. To remove you would have to sand it off.
This appears to be a solid stain, not sure. Will stripper work? If not what type of stain do I need to recoat ? Pictures show sun exposed, and covered section under roof on dock on intracoastal salt water environment.
The stripper will not remove this fully.
I understand. I have since photos taken tried your stripper and booster with little success esp. the covered area. My question is how to prepare surface for stain AND what type of stain, solid, semi etc. should I order.
If you cannot get it off then you will need to cover this with a solid stain: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-solid-stain.html
Last year we stripped our old deck of Behr stain, went through all your prep, cleaning and staining directions. We used the Light Walnut stain, turned out beautiful, BUT the wife would like it darker now. What do steps need to be taken to apply the Dark Walnut stain?
Just use the cleaner for prep and recoat with one coat.
So do I also need to order the Brightener to neutralize the Cleaner? Or can I Use the Cleaner rinse complete then apply RAD stain?
Just use the Cleaner and rinse well since you have a base coat.
I have a massive deck around a 36′ x 18′ pool. Plus a 21 x 30 upper deck coming off the house. New it is $10K to replace all boards – so I am mixing in older sanded boards with new cedar boards. I will sand everything just b4 applying cleaner, brightener, then stain. The challenge is – how do I wait 3-6 months to stain the new cedar when it is surrounded by (mixed in with) older “reclaimed” cedar? What should I do? Just stain the older boards and hold off on the newer boards – they are literally mixed together.
Best to just wait and do it all in 3-4 months.
Hello. I have a 4 level deck the top level is under roof. The other levels have to cover. I last stained with a water based stain in cedar tone I can’t remember the brand but purchased at Lowe’s. Most all of the stain is worn off the sub decks but was pretty think on the main covered deck. I power washed and rented a sander and sanded the entire floor surfaces and stairs of the deck after sanding with 36 grit paper the deck looked bare. I power washed to clean After power washing the main covered deck still has traces of stain. The sub decks do not. I want to stain my deck two tone. The floors a semi transparent lighter color and the rails a darker color maybe a semi solid. I have put a lot of prep work in and I want to do it right so it will last. My questions. :
1- What stain do you recommend
2- can I stain over the traces of stain on the upper deck floor?
3-I power washed the rails, but did not strip. Can I paint a semi solid darker color over without stripping the rails? If not what can I use with out stripping them?
4- should I spray or brush on?
5- deck measurements main deck 29×12
sub deck 10×12
sub deck 9×7
sub deck 6×7
22 steps in total
how much product will I need to strip main deck fully (if needed) ; to stain all deck floors and stairs (1color) and yo stain all rails (darker color)?
6- if I order everything I need from
you today to ship to WV (26301) would I be able to get it within a week?
thank you so much for answering all my questions. I look forward to doing business with you!
Mariea
1. The RAD in semi-transparent.
2. No, you have to remove all of the old stain to be able to use the RAD semi-trans.
3. RAD does not come in a semi-solid. It does come in a solid stain and that could be applied over what is on there now.
4. Stain pads or brush.
5. We need a total of all wood added up including the rails, steps, etc.
6. We are not taking any new orders for about a week.
Hello. Very interested in your product(s). I’m n Canada but understand I will have to order online for shipping from the U.S. My question: I have two decks in two different locations. One had an oil-based semi-transparent stain which has pretty much worn off, and black mold has set in in several spots, but not throughout, which I need to clean before re-staining. The other deck has never been stained and has a problem with algae which I have cleaned in the past with a pressure washer. BOTH decks are made from pressure-treated. Does using pressure-treated wood have an impact on your your products perform?
No issues with PTP decks.
Hi, I bought the RAD Kit 3 years ago, and it has been sitting in the garage since then. We live in Toronto, so it can get pretty cold, but the garage never reaches freezing point. We have a five year old PT wood deck and fence that has never been stained. We bought the Armstrong Clark ber semi-transparent stain as well – this has also been sitting in the garage for three years.
Can you please address the following concerns?
Is the RAD kit still effective after so many years?
Most importantly, how safe is product with vegetation? We have some done landscaping along the fence including some pricey trees. We don’t want to kill the trees.
Thank you
The RAD Kit should be fine. The kit is eco-safe, just rinse all vegetation with water when done.
Thanks for the confirmation-I had a few questions regarding the application of the product:
How do apply the product on vertical boards? For example, fence boards, I also have some large privacy panels on both sides of the decks.
Do I spray , brush and rinse? Most of the videos I have seen shows the application on flat deck boards, which seems pretty straight forward.
Thank you
You can spray on and then back wipe with a pad or brush for the fence. You do not rinse a stain.
Hello!
I believe it’s time to seal/stain my deck
Deck is ~34’ x 12’ (including stairs and landing)
Wood is: 2×6 #1 SYP-CLR- KD19.
installed March 2019
It has never been stained/sealed.
yes I have P. Washer
looking to use RAD cleaning kit
and use a RAD semi transparent natural sealer
Questions:
should I use my P Washer to clean or just brush and hose
and do I need two coats or just one since it’s the first time sealing.
And when will I be able to order? I have my shopping cart ready, but I need to add my payment information.
look forward to hearing back from you.
Best regards!
Dave Kenney
8016731148
david@thekenneysonline.com.
Hello,
Use the pressure washer while using the prep products. Two coats since it has been over a year.
I probably should have mentioned, too, our siding is cedar, deck is pressurized lumber. We do not have a pressure washer and have been told to avoid using one on the cedar.
We are looking to re-stain our siding and deck, approximately 3000 sq ft. We last stained the siding 6 years ago with a semi-transparent Olympic Maximum stain; we thoroughly cleaned all the wood before application in accordance with their directions. We were very unhappy with how quickly it started showing wear (some bare spots on the vertical surfaces after the first year and the railings lost 30-50% of their stain after the first year). We’re finally able to devote most of our summer to cleaning/staining again and are really hopeful your products will keep us happy with the results for several years to come. So, my question – is there any reason to use the stripper in our situation, or should we just use the cleaner? (We’re planning for a similar color – dark) I know you recommend the brightener after either one, so we’ll do that, as well. Do you recommend the wet-on-wet application (2 coats) for our situation? Is there anything else we should know or do to get results that will last? As you can imagine, cleaning and then staining 3000 sq ft by hand (it’s too windy where we live to spray the stain on) takes a long time, so we want to do this right!
The Olympic must be removed prior to applying the RAD stains. Strip and or sand. Brighten after.
I want to remove this grey in the cleaning process right?
Use the prep kits while pressure washing.
But that should come off during the process with the cleaner and the pressure washer right?
Yep.
It will Frank…I just did mine today and it looks good. Remember to let it sit for at least 15 min to do its job. I’m going to stain tommorrow. Will post some pictures if you like
Would these products be available in any stores in Ontario Canada?
No, they are not.
I recently purchased your solid stain and have replaced some of my old deck boards that were in bad shape. I replaced the boards with pressure treated pine. How long should I wait for the new boards to dry before I am able to apply your product?
See here: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Our wraparound deck encloses both entrances to our home. Is very light traffic (walking out maybe once) ok at some point before 24 hours? Or should we delay access to one entrance until the other is accessible?
You can walk on it after 3-5 hours.
Looking to stain 5 yr old fence. Roughly 1500 sqft. Can I buy just the stain itself? I saw on your website it says you give double the amount we order? Is that right? How many gallons do I need and should it be one or two coats? Fence has been pressure washed and never had a stain on it.
I am sorry but we have no idea as to what you mean by “saw on your website it says you give double the amount we order”. Thre is nothing that states this.
For 1500 Sq feet you would need about 15 gallons for 2 coats.
Ok and I can order the stain only and not buy and cleaner or anything in a kit?
Yes. https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain.html
When can orders be placed again? I’m currently trying to order 10 gallons of light walnut semi transparent
By the end of the week, possibly sooner.
Great!I assume you’ll let everyone know. Looking forward to trying your product
Make sure to sign up for alerts on the checkout page.
I just built a new deck back in the fall and applied your stain. It looked great but now this is happening (see pics) Any suggestions?
I am not sure you followed new wood directions? https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Yes, I followed those instructions. I built the deck in July and did not stain it until October. Followed
all the procedures, cleaned it with your product, then brightened it with your product and then applied the stain. I am just wondering what I can do to try and correct the issue, I think you products are outstanding other than these two small areas. Just looking for suggestions.
Just touch up these two small areas with another coat to the bare wood.
Hi peoples. I have a deck that is several years old, 2 x 4 so close together that can hardly get a saw blade between. Wood is showing its’ age, replaced those necessary, old wood some cracking, pressure washed carefully, came nice and clean
Do you guys still make the cleaner for previously stained wood? I am unable to find it listed. Also when you click on the stripper the picture shows the package for the previously stained wood product. Thanks.
I am not sure what you mean? We never had a different cleaner for sale.
My bad, I was confused while trying to find products for this year. Any idea when we will be able to order again, I have never used anything other than your products and am now looking for substitute products as I already people asking about decks.
Hopefully next week!
I have a deck that I stained with your product, a semi-transparent stain, one year ago. The time has come to re-stain it as the high usage areas have seen the stain wear off of the old wood. Which product do you recommend for stripping the seal so I can re-apply the stain? Thanks.
The RAD Stripper/Brightener kit.
I have a roughly 750 square foot deck (pressure treated pine, I’m guessing 20-30 years old) in a house I have lived in her in Michigan for almost 4 years now. 2 years ago we had a contractor put down Flood Pro Series solid stain (in stucco) and as you can see it is coming up all over the place. The previous owners I believe used an oil based semi transparent stain as I found a can in the garage and I’m guessing that was what they used before. My wife dealt with the guy that stained the deck, so I’m not exactly sure what he did prior to putting down the solid stain.
I lightly power washed the deck and the pictures were from after that where you can see a lot of the stain coming up. My question is, would it be possible to power sand the deck and put back down a semi transparent stain? I would really love to get away from the solid stain as I don’t particularly like the way it looks and shows dirt, especially the lighter color that is on there currently. My plan would be to sand the horizontal portion of the deck and put a stain down there, but maintain the solid stain on the vertical portions and railings (mostly for ease).
Does this seem reasonable? Would I still need to use a stripper after sanding or could I just sand, clean, brighten, and then stain?
Power sand off the floor and try a two-toned deck: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/two-toned-decks-with-restore-a-deck-wood-stains.html
No need to strip, just sand it all off.
Perfect, that is exactly what I wanted to try and do. I just wanted to make sure before I got too far in.
I see that you are only about 30mins from me, do you allow local pickup at all right now?
Yes, curbside starting Monday.
I have an old PT deck roughly 300 sq ft. I don’t know how old it is or what type of stain is on it, but if I had to venture a guess I’d say the deck is more than 10 years old and the stain is probably some kind of oil based semi-transparent stain. I just ordered new decking to replace the floorboards and handrail because they are in particularly rough shape. However, I’d like to re-use the existing PT balusters and exposed foundation (i.e., the outside 2 x 12s that are seen on the front of the deck) if possible because they look ok. I am hoping to use one of your semi-transparent stains (cedar?) on both the old wood and the new wood, but I have several questions about the process:
1) Would I need stripper (for the old wood) and cleaner (for the new wood), as well as brightener (for the old wood)? That seems like a lot of work considering I was already planning on sanding the exposed portions of the old wood.
2) Should I replace the floorboards first and then strip/clean/brighten the balusters and exposed foundation? Or strip/clean/brighten the balusters and exposed foundation first, and then replace the floor boards and handrail?
Or, lastly, will I never get the old and new wood to match, so I should just go ahead and replace the balusters and exposed foundation to achieve a uniform look?
Thanks
1. Yes you have to strip and clean as needed. Brighten all wood.
2. Doesn’t matter but see here about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
No, the wood will not match now. Down the road it will when you redo.
I have about 2000sqft of covered porch pine untreated, was stained 4 years ago when it was new using Cabot solid black oil based, in most places it has held up well but not where there is the most sun and hottest sun(west side) After I use your products to strip, clean and brighten, how many gallons do you recommend I purchase to start with and what is the closest color you have to black.
any idea of when you will reopen for shipping
You cannot fully strip a solid stain so you will need to use a solid stain again. Espresso is a dark brown. You will need about 15-20 gallons for the two coats.
Considering solid for rails, but trying to switch to semi trans or semi solid on deck. Would do solid on deck also if that is much easier.
I am ok renting an orbital floor sander and/or pressure washer if needed.
About 380 sf deck and 63 linear ft/3 ft railing.
Thanks.
PT pine?? 10 plus years (owned house for 2 yr)
Unknown type, brand. Looks like Solid
Stain is old and peeling on deck, faded but in good shape on railings. Has some knot holes but very little cracking.
Much easier to use a solid on all wood. Stripping will not remove form floor so you would have to power sand if you want a semi-transparent there but not sure if you will be able to sand it all off.
Thank you. Will go with solid.
What’s the best prep routine? How much of each product do I need?
Strip off as much as you can. One Stripper/Brightener kit. About 3-4 gallons of stain for 2 coats.
Do you recommend 1 coat or 2? If 2 coats, should it be wet on wet?
My new deck (pressure treated pine) was cleaned and brightened with RAD and got its 1 coat this past October with TWP Honeytone 1515. I plan to coat it again this late Spring or early summer. After I clean and brighten with RAD, should I just use 1 coat? I plan on doing this each year as it gets sunshine all day. Please advise. Thanks for your help!
Just one coat since you will have a base coat.
I’ve seen reference to doing “a maintenance coat” of stain. Do you mean to just wash off, dry and apply a coat of stain or clean, brighten, let dry and re-stain? What exactly do you mean by a maintenance coat?
Clean, brighten, then stain.
How soon can you ship the stripper and brightener? I live in Georgia. Is there anywhere to buy it locally?
Sorry but only online. We hope to resume normal operations next week.
I have a deck around a fire pit that was neglected by the previous homeowners. It doesn’t look like it has been maintained for probably 10 years (if ever), so I am needing to clean and stain/seal the deck very soon in order to preserve it. There are several boards already showing rot that will need to be replaced. I plan on replacing the rotted boards before using your cleaner/brightener on the entire deck with pressure washer. I have a couple of questions on the next steps:
1. If I also used your stain, could I apply it to all boards (old and new) even though the new pressure treated pine boards would not be weathered?
2. If wood preservation is of more importance than color/appearance, is a sealant a better option than your stain? I don’t see in the stain description where it says it also seals the wood.
Nevermind, I just saw the notice online about orders. I will respond to email about my previous order as instructed. Thanks! 🙂
1. No, the new wood should weather and be prepped.
2. All deck stains seal the wood. Clear sealers that are not a tinted stain will not provide any UV protection.
I’m not sure I understand….
1. Do you mean I should use restore-a-deck cleaner, then stain it, or should I clean it again with just soapy water then stain it?
2. I think your instructions say for virgin wood to apply one coat the first year, then 2 coats the following year. Are you saying because the stain looks pretty good, I should only apply one coat this year? I am hoping to not have to reapply next year.
1. Lightly wash with soap and a pressure wash rinse.
2. Just one coat this year, you have a base coat. More is not better! It needs to soak in.
I had new deck flooring installed last year that I aged 6 months, then stripped, cleaned, and brightened with your products, then applied one coat of light walnut stain. The stain looked great. Over the year the stain faded somewhat, but I expected this as part of the process. This year I plan to apply 2 coats of stain. However, this week I mistakenly added chlorine bleach to the soapy water with chlorine bleach I added. I have white painted railing that gets black from a tree next to it, and the stain is faded a little more where I spent time cleaning the railing. Otherwise, The stain looks about the same as before I cleaned, ebut I noticed some residue in the bottom of my bucket when I cleaned up. It will rain, and I won’t be able to apply stain for several weeks.
Should I apply a brightener, then apply stain, or can I just apply stain.
Just clean, no need for a brightener. I would suggest one coat since you already have a base coat.
1. Square footage: 100 SF
2. Type wood: Redwood
3. Age of wood: 50 years
4. Previous stain: Oil-based redwood color
5. Last time stained: 2000/2003
6. Wood type: Furniture
7. Access to pressure washer: Yes
8. Photos: Included
9. Background: Inherited my family’s redwood picnic bench set made by my Dad. It’s in excellent shape; kept outside, under a patio roof in the southeastern Pennsylvania climate for 50 years.
I’m not a fan of the red color and am considering changing to gray. Found your product while researching solid stains for outside furniture. Yours is the only product that claims it can be used for furniture.
I plan to sand, clean and stain the furniture, which leads me to a few questions:
1. In addition to the Brightener, which product do you recommend I use—your Cleaner or Stripper?
2. I am leaning towards your Coastal Gray product. Considering the age and condition of the furniture, what is the likelihood of tannin bleed-through?
3. Do you have examples and/or testimonials of customers who used your solid stain product for redwood or cedar furniture? If yes, can you share those comments?
Just pressure was this for prep and then lightly sand if needed. No other products are needed. We do not have any examples on furniture.
Can you advise if you are shipping out your deck kits at this time or is shipping still on hold
On hold until next week.
We cleaned/brightened our deck, and stained the following weekend (4/26). Unfortunately, a pop up rain storm (that 1% chance) hit as I was finishing. It’s a large deck so parts were dry, but others are streaky and the last third seems completely washed away (foreground in image is what was mostly dry, to far part that got rained on as I was still staining). Before I reapply stain to the parts that got messed up, do I need to only strip, strip and brighten, or just brighten? For the last third that’s almost totally gone, vs the middle third that is streaky, could I get away with just reapplying on top of what’s there?
For it to adhere properly and be even you will have to strip all the flooring down and then brighten to start over.
Can you advise on how to strip without impacting adjacent boards? A third of the deck is fine so don’t want to redo those.
Also, are home Depot/Lowe’s strippers ok(I know you say RAD is best/ideal, but what about in a pinch?) I still have RAD brighter but we only bought the cleaner before. We have to get this done in the next few days.
Lowes and HD do not make quality strippers. No one has a stripper like ours. You could try them but not sure how well they will work.
I’m guessing there is no priority shipping right now given the high demand?
HI, just applied transparent stain,,, after cleaners and brighteners purchased from you. Deck looks great but some areas look like they need more of the stain. Can we apply a second coat without doing the cleaning and brightening again? Or should we wait until fall or next spring to reapply? Thanks, your help is awesome! Love your products!!!!!
No, wait until Fall or Spring to do a maintenance coat.
Hello. I’m glad I found your web site and products before I made a big mistake. I have a very large deck on the back of my house. It is about 50′ long and 12′ wide plus a 20′ x 5′ section down the side of the house to a set of stairs. I calculate about 1,000 sq ft. It was 20 years old and I wanted to replace some wood after a tree fell on a portion of it last Fall. I had new rough cut and smooth cut cedar put on it and ended up replacing all of the decking and some of the 6×6 vertical poles. My contractor completed it last November and wanted to immediately stain it with Sherwin Williams Superdeck. Even though he protested, I let it weather for the last 5-6 months. It was very nice looking when it rained and the cedar grain really popped. I decided to handle the project of staining it myself. I checked on the SuperDeck and was surprised with the reviews that were negative. Most had to do with it darkening and getting sticky and attracting dirt and mold. My neighbors recommended Sikkens Dek that is an oil base stain. I could not find it easy with the Covid-19 issues. I went to HD and found some Olympic Elite Stain made by PPG. They raged about how good it was and I needed to start with their Olympic Deck Cleaner. I put that on my deck with a power washer last weekend. I was not happy with the results. It bleached all the color out of the wood. In addition, it developed this white scum (I guess wood pulp) I had to keep power washing off and that stuff splattered all over everywhere. I was disappointed and finally went to the web and looked for help and found your company. I wish I would have found you guys before I went through the cleaner. I saw on the web that this while colors are called fuzzies and I need to buff them off with a powered nylon scrub pad. I know I shouldn’t sand based on my continued reading of your blogs and questions/answers. I was really impressed with the consistent message you guys project. Based on my readings. I could buff the fuzzies and rough it up a little. Then put your brightener on to make the wood pop and change the Ph, and then go with one of your water-based stains. I’m concerned that with a lack of oil, I may not get beading with your water based product. Can you clarify some of the differences? I ordered one of your kits with the Semi-Transparent Wood Stain Samples on Sun April 19, but have not received it yet. I dio want somewhat of a darker color because some of the poles and other braces were not changed out and are a bit darker than the new wood. Please provide some of your very expert and experienced advice. Thank you.
Yes buff off the fuzzies and then brighten the wood. The stain will bring back the color as well. it will look great when done.
I have a red cedar deck that has a peeling Benjamin Moore solid stain. I used the calculator to determine about 600 SF of surface area. Looking to use your solid Brown Oak stain. Would you recommend the cleaner or should I use the stripper to remove as much of the old stain as possible before using your solid stain? Would you also recommend I use the thickener and/or booster to the stripper? The deck is in the Midwest (Chicago area)
Stripper to remove what you can. No need for additives.
Thanks – Do I need the Brightener to neutralize the stripper? Also does the soild stain come in 5 gallon pails?
Single gallons only. Yes you need the brightener.
Thanks – I see that you are not taking new orders? Do I place an order and wait in line? How will this work (understanding there will be a delay in fulfilling the order)?
Sign up for the alert at checkout and we will notify you when the site is accepting new orders.
do you have a money back guarantee?
The warranty can be found on the back label of all products and you can see that in the pictures for each label.
Wood: pressure treated pine
Age: 3yrs
Previous Stain Used: Sherman Williams Super Deck Stain Clear Sealer
Last stain: 3 yrs
Wood type: Deck
Pressure washer: Yes
Questions:
Recently pressure washed after brush scrubbing with bleach water to remove algae and mold.
Would you please advise on next steps. Can I move forward with a semi transparent stain or do I need to apply more prep to deck? If I need more prep, which items and why?
Living in the Atlanta GA area with high rain volumes and direct high heat on deck.
Which brown stain is not orange in color? Measures approximately 38′ x 15′. Picture attached.
Thank you!
Prep looks okay. Dark Walnut is the color you would want if no orange.
Thank you for the info. I attached a pic of my railing. They are a different color then the floor. Do I need to apply a brightener to them so they match the floor?
Thank you.
Look for a solid stain… one that fills small holes and/or cracks.. Also, do you do custom colors? Lastly, you ship to Toronto Ontario, or have a dealer in this area? Thanks in advance….
Hello,
Solid stains will not fill cracks or holes. We do not do custom colors, only stock colors. We do ship to Ontario.
customer has a wood deck that has acrylic solid stain which is peeling badly.I want to use your product to remove all or most of this stain. Will your product effectively work on a solid stain?
No. Deck stain strippers will not fully remove a solid stain.
How much warmer to the feet will the coastal grey solid stain get compared to bare wood??? I formerly had a dark-ish gray coating (not RAD) and bare feet would nearly burn it got so hot in the sun compared to before that was applied.
Not much different than bare wood as it is not a very darker color.
If I use stripper w/thickening and brightener and find that I need solid stain instead of semi-transparent. Will it be too long between stripper and stain if I wait to order stain?
No. You will be fine.
If I use a thickening agent, can I still use a regular garden sprayer. What is the method of clean up?
Yes, you can spray it. Water cleanup
Are you taking orders? Mine order was cancelled
Your second-order was not canceled. It will be shipping out
Hi-
I’m staining a new deck ( installed in June) and it’s never been stained before. I’m here in NY and we had a very mild winter. Do you recommend the cleaner and brighter or will the cleaner be good enough?
Thanks!
You need both.
I am planning on re-staining my deck in Ct. The previous owner used SW Superdeck solid stain. I have power washed the area and plan on using your solid stain as a finish. Do I need to strip the remaining stain off? What other steps should I use to make sure I don’t have issues?
As long as you removed the peeling stain you can cover the rest if it is fully intact to the wood.
Are you guys no longer accepting orders?
Temporarily suspended due to covid-19. For about a week.
ok great. Will I have to use the brightener to help with the stain adhering to the wood better?
No need.
I live in Edmonton, Alberta. Are there any vendors of your stain products in my area?
No, there are not.
You might want to strip the floor down to the bare wood so the stain fully penetrates. That way it will not wear unevenly.
I have a 1 year old redwood deck ( has No stain or anything on it has been weathering as advised) I have the same Colorado conditions full sun all day and very low humidity here). Reading @BigChiefMountain post am worried this is not the best stain for these conditions? Please advise.
In the pictures above it shows that the stain did not fully soak into the wood which means it was over applied and dried on the surface. RAD is designed to fully soak into the wood. If it fully soaks in then it is impossible to wear like this. If applied to the point where the stain was too thick and it dries on top of the wood you could potentially have an issue.
Approximately 300 sq. ft. of deck
Redwood is approximately 30 years old.
7 year ONE STEP was used about 7 years ago.
I have a pressure washer.
Will your stripper work?
The stripper should remove this but use both additives as well: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
HI. We recently bought a house in Maryland with a very sad deck, almost 450 sq ft. We have no idea what was used before, deck over? How do we remove this coating and what needs to be done prior to stain? Boards need to be replaced, do you know what type it is? Would semi transparent or solid be better choice? Excited to try your products.
This is an opaque solid stain. It cannot be fully stripped. You can use the solid stain after stripping off as much as you can.
How do we do that? Sander or your stripper?
Either.