We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
Last year I had a new cedar deck built. I bought your starter kit that included the cleaner, brightener and stain. I allowed my deck to cure during the summer months before applying your product. When I cleaned and brightened my deck, I couldn’t get all the brightener off my deck, even after repeated scrubbing and power washing efforts. My wood was chalky white after it dried. I ultimately had to apply the stain to protect my deck through the rainy winter months. I wasn’t happy with the results.
Fast forward to yesterday, where I spent 90 minutes pressure washing my deck to prep it for a maintenance coat of stain, hoping it would even out the deck color. The stain on my deck came right off, but it turns out the brightener was stuck fast. The chalky whiteness on the left side of my photo illustrates my problem.
I’m afraid my deck is ruined at this point. Is there even any point in trying to stain it again?
That is not brightener but oxidized wood cells from the sun. Rent a floor buffer and they will have some sanding pads. Buff off the wood cells that are white.
I have a deck with fencing. the was stained many years ago and is peeling in most places. I have replaced several of the deck boards two years ago. the remaining boards are also peeling. what do you recommend to clean and stain the deck and fencing? I don’t have a pressure washer.
You will need to prep correctly and that will require removing the peeling stain by sanding and or pressure washing. Once prepped, you can then use the RAD stains.
hand sanding? or would your cleaning products work for stain removal?
Send some pictures.
here is the deck post power washing
You will have to power sand this off.
but do I use a a stain stripper first or at all? or just sanding. I’m sorry. just confused on wear to start the process.
Stripper will not remove this red paint so you are better off just sanding to remove it.
ok. it’s all mostly sanded off. what should I do next?
Clean and brighten after fully sanded and then stain.
We have a deck that is over 20 years old. pine with some wolminized mixed in. Replacing a number of boards. Sandblasting everything and was thinking of using your product. Is this a good match
Yes but you will need to weather the new boards: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Hello! I’d like to refinish a weathered, outdoor cedar chair and sidetable. Your Semi-transparent cedar wood stain looks perfect for that project, but I don’t need much, a quart at most. Do you sell quantities smaller than 1 gallon? Thank you,
Ted Shapas
36 Lisa Ct, Alamo, CA 94507
925.330.1950
tshapas@gmail.com
Sorry but no.
We have a 10 year old deck, never stained. It has old and new boards from a hot tub that was removed. Would a semi-transparent stain or solid stain work best to make all boards more uniform?
Solid stain.
Is it ok to use a paint sprayer to apply RAD?
Yes but you will need to back wipe to ensure an even application.
your web site will not allow me to place this order. what next?
Our website is working correctly as we have had many 100s of orders in the last 24 hours. If you are having an issue then it is computer or browser-related. Try a different device to see if it works. Thanks
i meant what is the “shelf” life…..
oops – one more question – that is the help life of your semi trans stain ? will it last unopened for 3 yrs? i am just wonder this, because i don’t want to run short so i rather order more right off the bat. unless you have any suggestions. thanks
Unopened and stored in a temperature-controlled room and you will be good.
thanks !!
one other question please, between the colors, cedar and the light walnut semi-t, on PT wood, which color is closest to TWP 1501 cedar tone ? hard to tell from the RAD pictures, and there are only those 4 colors.
thanks for your help !!!
Probably the Light Walnut.
If I add Outlast NBS30, which is an additive to prevent carpenter bees from drilling holes in my deck, will the stain color color get altered? any advice on this ?
No issues.
Is there a retail outlet near Three Rivers, Mi 49093? Thanks
Metro Detroit would be the closest area.
320 square feet, pressure treated lumber, Behr semi transparent stain and sealer oil based, age of wood is 9 years old. Originally stained with Behr oil based semi transparent stain and sealer and replied 3 years ago. I sanded the deck down yesterday but the pickets and railing have yet to be touched. Have a pressure washer if needed.
Looks like you still have remnants of the old stain. Strip and brighten for final prep to remove move and open up the wood for the stain. One kit of that. 3-4 gallons of the RAD stain for two coats.
How often does the stain need to be maintained?
Every two years or so.
1. 180 sq ft 2. Pressure Treated 3.Deckover by Behr, 2 years worth of coatings to try and fix it. 4. Stained last year. 5. Deck 6. I have a pressure washer. I thought I installed this wrong 2 years ago and tried to fix it last year, used Behr stripper, it hardly took anything off, used a scrapper, and also bought a grinder attachment and power washed. Then, and this is hard to say, I redid the deck over, and it peeled up again! I think I should just turn the boards over and use a stain. What Can I do? I also have this stuff on the railings, it is peeling in places but mostly stayed on the railings. I would like to take every little bit off. It is so frustrating.
You cannot strip this sod you will have to sand it off or replace the wood. Flipping should work too.
Ok, I think flipping then. What products do I use once I flip them? Cleaner, Brightener, and Stain?
Thanks
After flipping, let the wood weather for a few months then clean and brighten for prep before staining.
I just placed my order2 pm Thurs May 7. I see your note about 2 – 5 bus. day delay. Can you give me an estimate of when my order wlll arrive in SC zip code 29672? I have no idea where you are or how you ship…. would be helpful to plan …. thanks very much
2-5 business days before it leaves. 2-3 days after that to arrive.
Our deck has a 100% acrylic Solid Stain on it and some of the boards have peeled. Why do I need to do the cleaner and brightener before I apply the stain since it already has a Solid on it? I live in Oregon so how long should the wood need to dry out from all the rain from the winter? Thx
You always have to clean the wood before prepping. You did into need the brightener though if you have a solid stain already.
Did you mean to say I do not need to use the brightener? I pressure washed the deck, I still need to use the cleaner? Can I apply these now since its nice out or wait till June July when its had a chance to dry for weeks instead of day?
Not need the brightener. Sorry, typo. Clean and pressure wash. Whenever the weather works.
My kids got splinters on the deck so i want to sand it before i stain it. It’s my first time using your product and staining my deck. Do i sand before i use your deck cleaner? Do i sand in between the cleaning and brightening process? Do i sand before even cleaning the deck? First timer and i don’t want to mess it up. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Clean first, lightly sand splinters, and the brightener.
do you have dealers in Toronto Canada?
No, we do not.
ok what do you think the delivery time might be to get it to toronto after order was placed
3-6 business days.
I’m stripping off about 800 sq ft of Sherwin Williams Superdeck semi-solid. Would the using the stripper, booster, thickening gel, and brightener be the best option for this?
Post a picture.
3 years old, 2 coats were applied. I power washed it a few days ago. What’s peeled off primarily came off during the power wash.
That is a solid stain. It cannot be stripped. You will have to power sand this to remove it.
The can says semi-solid, does that matter?
It may say that but what is on your deck is a solid stain and nothing will strip this.
Dealers near 49341
Metro Detroit area is the closest.
Just received my products and had plans to clean/brighten as well as stain this weekend on new porch and deck, both previously untreated. The weather here in NC has been warm but is forecasted to be in the 50’s during the day of cleaning and staining but drop down to 35 over night. Should I wait for warmer overnight temperatures for best results?
Yes.
Can I buy your product in Canada somewhere so I can avoid paying the huge shipping and duty on this and the shipping delay?
I live near Toronto.
Sorry but no dealers in Canada.
We have ~2,500 sq ft of siding, previously stained with a water-based, semi-transparent 5-6 years ago, and a 280 sq ft deck stained with the same, most recently last year. Both are about 18 years old. We also have a medium-sized play structure (three-swing beam, “playhouse,” rock wall, etc) that was last stained 4 years ago, I think. No idea on square footage, or (honestly) how to measure it.
1) We need to strip, brighten, then stain, correct? Or clean, brighten, stain?
2) We should rent a power washer for the strip step, right, to avoid having to scrub every square inch of our siding? Any ideas on how many hours it would take two people to complete with a power washer? (I’m trying to figure out if renting is feasible, or if it’s cheaper to buy one)
3) How much of each (strip/clean, brightener, semi-transparent stain) do you think we need for the siding and deck? Do we need any of the additives?
4) Can you give me a best guess for the play structure? I know it’ll be a guess…but yours is likely much more accurate than mine!
5) I’ve been reading about the wet-on-wet, 2 coats, but then just read in a comment that you only need one coat for vertical surfaces. Is that correct? So 2 coats on the deck floor and handrails, and anything horizontal on the play structure, but one coat for the siding?
THANK YOU! Wish we still lived in Michigan and we could just leave this to you guys 🙂
1. Strip and brighten but possibly even sand based on the brand of stain. Pictures would help.
2. Without seeing a picture, there is no way to answer this.
3. Need pictures.
4. Same
5. Depends on the wood and how porous it is.
Here are some photos – not sure what you’re looking for, exactly, so if you need some closer, let me know.
This is not an easy strip. Use the RAD Stripper and Brightener Kits with both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Roughly 4 of each kit and 4 of each of the two additives. You will need two coats for all wood except the play structure. Just one coat there. Two coats for the roof of the playset.
As for stain, roughly 30 gallons for two coats on all.
Thanks for the feedback, that’s really helpful. Can I ask what makes it “not an easy strip”? Not because I don’t believe you, just because I’m trying to understand 🙂 Will the power washer make it any easier?
Also, in the future, how often should we be expect to be cleaning and staining from here on out?
Water-based filming stain that is very thick in many areas is the issue. You have to pressure wash while using the stripper. Every 4-7 years for the house. Every 2-3 for the deck.
I’ve got a black locust deck that had been finished with a penetrating oil. The finish did not hold up well in the sun and mold. I cleaned it with bleach based cleaner and power washer. It took 2 days and still left of a lot of black stains, but I think the finish is gone. Here are a few questions: 1. Should I clean again? If so with what kind of cleaner? 2. Given that the penetrating oil recommended by the decking company didn’t hold up well, what kind of finish do you recommend?
Post a picture.
Here you go.
For prep you would need the RAD Stripper/Brightener kit. use the RAD Semi-Transparent Stain after.
I have 900 square feet of deck including railings and stairs. do I really need 10 gallons of stain? seems like a lot.
You only need one coat for Black Locust. so about 5-7 gallons.
So of course my wife is not pleased with the result after my 12 hours of labor! This is one coat of cottage gray after sanding the whole deck. Can I still do another coat 12 hours later If not what do you recommend?
No, it will not take now. Did you clean and brighten the wood after sanding? It looks like you sanded the wood too smooth and if so, this should have been treated like new wood and let the wood to weather for a few months and then prep. You may have to redo this in the Fall.
I followed directions given to me on this forum. I used both your stripper and brightner and had a remaining stain. I was told to sand deck afterwards with 60 or 80 grit paper.
Okay but did you clean and or brighten after the sanding? This helps to open up the pores. Either way, it is best to leave as-is for now. You can clean and recoat with a light coat in late Fall.
Ok thanks for the information
Do you have a any pictures of Decks with Natural, Light Walnut, and Cedar, trying to figure out the look so that we can place an order soon. Thank you (using Pressure treated Yellow pIne)
Look at our contest pictures at bottom of these links:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-prep-stain-contest-2019.html
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-prep-wood-stain-contest-2018.html
Hello, we purchased our home last year. The deck needs serious work and my friend recommended your company. 825 feet of decking. In attached picture two outside boards were replaced in the August 2019. Two inside boards a few weeks ago.
Questions:
1. How much and what product to order? I’ll order today.
2. How do we deal with the older new boards vs brand new boards?
3. How long for delivery?
Thanks in advance! Teresa Beaird
No picture.
1. About 8-10 gallons
2. You cannot get the new wood to match the old wood with a semi-trans stain.
3. 3-10 business days.
Trying to load the picture again. Is it 8-10 gallons of each product?
8-10 gallons of stain. One Stripper/Brightener Kit.
Looking at doing some work on my deck of a house I just purchased.
Can you help me identify what I am dealing with? Solid stain?
Yes, looks like a solid stain.
Ok. Thanks.
My understanding is I have two choices.
1. Try to remove it with stripper and pressure washer and likely sanding.
or
2. Apply cleaner then put a solid stain over it again.
Is this correct? Any other thoughts?
Yes, correct.
Is your product available at retailers? Or only on-line?
Online mostly unless in Michigan.
Wood type unknown: southern pine??
2. age: 20 years
3, previous stain was Cabot clear sealer
4. not sure when last stained–within 3 years I think
5. working on deck, no rails
6. no pressure washer
I have 2 decks: 15. x 32 and 9 x 5
11 steps that are 4 ft wide
Plan to strip brighten and use semi transp stain. Question: WHICH KIT SIZE DO NEED? WOULD RATHER OVER BUY THAN UNDERBUY
Send a picture of the current condition and what is the total sq footage of all wood that includes, floor, steps, railings, etc added up?
This my sq footage and thinking. Do you agree with the waste factor?
Square footage: 640 sq ft plus 20 % waste = 800
One Stripper/Brightener Kit and about 6-8 gallons of the stain for two coats applied wet on wet is correct.
We used your cleaner, brightened, and semi-transparent stain on cumaru and pressure treated pine. Do we need to apply a sealer? We are wondering because it does not repel water.
No, do not add a sealer. It is designed to shed water, not bead water,
It’s been about 4 weeks since pressure washing my fence. Ordering semi transparent stain once orders open back up. Has it been too long since cleaning? Do I need to pressure wash again or use any other of your products to prep before applying the stain?
If a little dirty then just lightly pressure wash rinse again.
Can new orders be placed at all?
By Friday.
I tried ordering stripper and brightener and it’s already shut down?
By Friday it will be up, if not sooner.
Do you recommend solid stain on rough sawn wood? What are the specific instructions for applying solid stain? I saw this and it confused me a bit, “Solid stains are not wet on wet. The second coat goes on after the first is dry but typically the same day is the best way.” Does that mean the first coat can go on wet or not?
You can apply the first coat to damp or dry wood. Second coat is applied after first coat is fully dry. You can use it on rough sawn wood.
My rough sawn wood is new. Do I need to let it weather or not? I use the clean and brighten on the new wood, right?
If rough-sawn it does not have the weather.
Also, I ordered the Chapin sprayer. Can I used that to apply the solid stain or just the stripper, cleaner and brightener.
Not the solid stain.
Prior to applying the second coat, when you say “fully dry” is that the “dry to the touch” in 1 to 2 hours or fully cured in 24 to 48 hours?
This is for the solid stains only. Dry to the touch.
I have a lawn and garden sprayer. Will this spray the RAD stripper, or do I need something different?
As long as it is a quality sprayer, you should be okay.
I had to replace 15-16 deck boards about a month ago. I am going to use RAD solid stain on the deck, is the 30 day seasoning enough since I will be using the solid stain product? I know that longer would be best, but is it do able now?
No, you will need the 3 months and prep: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Planning on applying the solid stain this weekend. Highs of 55-60, lows will be around 30 according to the forecast. Will the temp drop too low overnight to allow the stain to adhere properly?
It cannot drop below freezing temps the first night.
Hi,
I stripped and brightened my deck with your RAD products. I was planning on staining in cottage grey semi transparent tomorrow. Will it still work out if I rent an orbital sander with 60 grit to remove the stubborn stain that remains?
Thanks
Yes, sand that off.
And its ok if I don’t have any cleaner or brighter to apply after sanding?
Brightener after would be best. 60-80 grit for the sand paper.
This is the only brightner available at HD Canada. Will this be good enough or should I just skip the brightner all together?
That is not a true brightener but a bleach-based cleaner. Don’t use it.
Ok, so I’m going to skip the brightner I guess should I mist deck before applying stain?
Yes, just one coat of stain since you sanded.
Hello, I have an older deck that everyone is starting to get splinters in their feet/hands when playing on deck therefore I want to redo it in two tone. Solid stain on floorboards & stairs and semi-transparent on rails/underdeck sidings.
Here are the stats:
Two level deck: Upper level 16ft x 20ft, elevated 5ft. Lower level 12ft x 15ft, elevated 6 inches. 6 stairs connect both decks.
Age of wood: About 20-25 years
Type of wood: Unknown
Stain: No stain (but I did power wash and spray clear oil sealer [Thompson] about 2 years ago )
Powerwasher: Yes I have one
Sanding: I intend to sand everything
What would be the best procedure, powerwash first, SAND rails and floor then use cleaner/brightner then stain?
Is the solid stain good for holding in splinters? Splinters are mostly on the edges of the floorboards so not sure how well I’ll be able to sand in-between boards.
How much semi transparent do I need for rails and underdeck siding? How much solid do I need for floorboards and stairs? How much cleaner/brightener do I need. Any other advice/recommendations?
Big question. What is the shipping lead-time to get to New Jersey? As I plan on tackling this project Memorial Day weekend. (May 23- 25 )
Pressure wash first with the cleaner and then sand. Brightener after. A solid stain will help with the splinters. We would need a total sq footage for each area that is being stained with each stain type to help with amount needed. About a week to NJ.
Solid Stain [solid horizontal surface = floorboards] = 500 sq ft
Semi Transparent Stain [non-solid vertical surface = hand rails, under deck lattice] = 490 sq ft
Thanks!
About 4 gallons for the two coats of solid stain. Only one coat is needed for vertical wood. About 3-4 gallons.
Thank you for the help. Can’t wait to try your product!
How do we check on an order ? I got a PayPal confirmation but didn’t get an email confirmation from the site.
We forwarded a copy of the order to you. If you did not get it, maybe check your spam.
I got it! Thank you. Do you know when it will be shipping?
Hello –
I am getting ready to re-stain an older deck, as well as stain new stairs that were added. I plan to use RAD products and would love some advice. Deck (180 sq ft) and stairs (25 sq ft) are both doug fir. I am a new owner of this home and have no idea when the deck was last stained or with what. Of course, it would be nice if the deck and the stairs matched fairly well once I am done. Please see attached photos. I am guessing I need to use a stripper on the deck, but some sources say just a cleaner and a brightener. What would you recommend? It sounds as if I will also clean and brighten the new wood before staining. I am not in love with the darker brown of the current stain – if possible I would love for the deck to look a bit more reddish or yellowish – but it is more important that the stairs and deck are at least a near match. The climate here is high desert, so there is no mold and not all that much rain, but in the winter there is snow and in the summer pretty intense sun. Can you recommend a stain from your line that would be most suitable? Also, I am not very keen on waiting 2 months with the stairs so mis-matched; How important is it that I wait? Finally, I don’t have a power washer but could have access to one if it is of significant advantage. First time home owner – any advice and recommendations you can provide would be much appreciated! While I am at it, the fence you see in the photos is cedar and was built in the fall; The fence and the deck do not have to match, but if you could recommend stains that would look nice together, staining the fence will be a project for later this summer!
Thank you,
Jess
See here about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
As for the older wood, you would have to strip and brighten this for prep. Once the new wood has weathered and all wood is prepped, you can use the RAD semi-transparent stain but no matter what, the new wood will be lighter in color.
Thank you! I saw the recommendations about new wood, but I am impatient to get my backyard looking good for summer. Can you tell me the consequences of staining the new wood before it is weathered? If it just means I would have to re-stain in a few months, that’s no biggie, but if there are permanent issues I can suffer the mis-match for a while!
It will fail and will need to be fully redone in months.
Can I just put the brighter on after cleaning and not stain my deck
Yes but the UV from the sun will gray the wood in a matter of months. That is the main reason for a stain.
I went through steps 1 (strip) and step 2 (brighten) with no issue. However, I ran out of daylight on the staining process, and I have about 80 Sq Ft left to stain.
I was hoping to do it today, but the weather is in the mid 40’s and will drop into the 30’s tonight, and all this week it wont be any warmer. Should I wait for the weather to warm up a bit, or can I just finish the stain job?
Wait to be warmer.
looking at the weather, its gonna be in the low 50s during the day and dip into the high 30s at night for about the next 10 days…and then when it does finally warm up, theres basically rain in the forecast everyday after that for the foreseeable future. I’m just trying to decide when to finish this job. If it ends up being 2 to 3 weeks after I’ve cleaned and brightened the deck before I can get to the rest of the stain, is it going to be a problem? Do I just gently hose wash the unfinished wood an hour or two before staining?
Just lightly pressure wash rinse if longer than 2 weeks. A few hours before staining will work.
Question 1. We used your Wood & Deck Stain 3 years ago and now it’s time to re-apply. Should we clean or strip? Do we need to brighten again before re-applying? Our deck is 380 SF (including steps).
Question 2. We have one unopened (still sealed) 2.5 gallon container of your stain. The container says “good for 36 months.” We’re roughly 3 years out today. Should we use what we have or buy new?
Question 3. Can we prep (clean or strip) while the deck is damp/wet?
1. If using the same stain and color, then clean and brighten for prep.
2. It should be fine as long as it did not freeze. Open and make sure the stain is fluid and does not have any skinning or clumping. If not, then you are okay.
3. Yes.
I previously have stained my deck with Cabot Jarrah Brown (dark) stain. I want to switch products to the RAD Walnut Brown. I last stained my deck last summer, so the deck is still brown. What do I need to do to switch to RAD? Can I apply the stain over the Cabot?
No, you will need to fully remove the Cabot first before using the RAD Dark Walnut.
What product is best for removing the Cabot?
We will need to see some pictures. You can post them here.
Here are pictures of the deck
That looks to be a semi-solid. It may not fully strip off. Best to strip as much as possible and then sand if needed the rest. Brightener last.
When its time to re stain a deck that has Restore a Deck product, do I need to strip, clean, and brighten? Or can I just clean brighten and re apply?
Clean and reapply.
I stained my deck using Natural Semi-Transparent back in December 2019, and I think I’d like to try Cedar or Light Walnut when I re-stain in a year and a half or so. Is it considerably more work to change the color at that time, as opposed to just going with Natural again?
The same amount of work.
We bought the 5 gallon set of stain and ended up only needed half of it (2.5 gallons). What is the shelf life of the unopened stain? Thanks!
Do not let it freeze and it should be good for a few years.
How long do I need to let the wood dry before I stain? I’m in northern Canada & our day temps are sitting around 8-14 degrees Celsius. Night temps 3-4 degrees Celsius. Thanks!
Dry after prep? New install?
Yes! & no! 7 yrs old; pressure wAshed & stained 2x; same product-TWP. This is my first time cleaning w RAD. It didn’t need it before. Now, I’ve been tardy on regular maintenance- the wood has a black residue – maybe sap left from an old maple tree passed its prime…(not sure) & some black/green Mold (& moss on stained but unmaintained section). Wood = Some PT & some white cedar.
So, I’m wondering after the RAD treatment (1clean & 2bright):
a) how long do I let the wood dry before staining to make sure I don’t trap moisture & create Mold.
b) does the brighter need to be applied the same day
c) what is the maximum length of time between the 1-2prep & staining for optimum appearance/performance?
d) I’m pressure washing first to remove some moss growing on top (limited RAD & can’t wait until u reopen) to ensure optimum effect of product on colour. Do I need to let the wood dry after this initial pressure wash or can I apply RAD 1clean to wet wood? What works better? Wet or dry application?
e) similarly does 2brightner need to go on wet or dry wood?
<<thanks so much for the time>>
a. 48 hours.
b. Yes
c. 2 weeks
d. You can apply the RAD to damper wood. Does not matter
e. As soon as you are done with the cleaning while wood is wet.