We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
I am located in central Iowa and have a 780sf cedar deck that was rebuilt around 2013. Last treated in 2017 with Olympic Maximum semi-transparent stain. I have a power washer which I used to prep in 2017. Deck is low to the ground (8-18 inches above grade), with parts in damp shade and full sun. A few small spots are soft and will be replaced, and there are a few raw boards that have been patched in but not treated for about a year. I’m thinking it might be time for a solid stain in order to blend old and new boards, but am willing to try a semi-transparent stain again if I can get it prepped correctly. Any recommendations for prep and final product are appreciated.
Use both stripper additives with the stripper and brightener kit. You should be able to then use the Semi-Transparent stain.
Is the Stain Stripper safe to use around pets?
Not while using it. Once dry and neutralized with brightener it is fine n
I want to order RAD cedar (I received a sample of) however, I cannot find cedar in a larger size. Please advise.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain.html
Hello,
We have a 7 years deck with pressured treated wood. We are currently preparing the deck for staining. We want to change a few board that have been damaged. Wondering if we just do the steps for those board (cleaner, brighter and two coats of semi-transparent stain? Thanks!
See this for tips: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Got 20 year old deck, refinished it in 2016 with Behr semi-transparent weather proofing all in one stain and sealer. Not worried about seeing the woodgrain. Would like to use your solid color. Will your solid color work?
Yes, but make sure to prep by pressure washing and removing any loose or peeling stain.
we have a 25-year-old original cedar deck with various boards replaced with pressure-treated wood over time. It is 950 sq ft. It has peeling and lifting solid Sherwin Williams stain as it’s the previous coating. We have Stripped it, power washed it, Brightened, and then sanded the whole deck. Approximately 12 hours ago we finished the second coat of solid Restore a Deck stain on the stairs. 3 Questions:
1. from the picture you can see the previous color is bleeding through on the steps, can we do a 3rd coat? 2. the steps were brushed on – will this cover better if it is rolled on? and 3. With the solid Stain, it says to wait for it to dry completely before the next coat – is this 1-2 hour dry? Do we need to do the second coat BEFORE it fully cures? We are trying to complete this weekend as the weather is cooperating as a quick reply would be awesome!! Thank you so much in advance!
Yes, you can another coat as needed. Rolling might give better results. It typically dries in 1-2 hours for another coat.
Thanks for the quick reply! Just to clarify – what’s the LONGEST period you can wait between an additional coat -1-2 days?
Correct.
I’ve prepared my deck for staining, using RAD stripper/brightener. How critical is it to ensure that all of the old semi-solid stain visible in between the deck boards (which have rounded/beveled edges) is removed before applying new semi-transparent (non-RAD) stain? Stripping/sanding the top surface of a large deck was tough enough – I’m a bit reticent to aggressively attack the cracks if failing to do so won’t result in failure of the new stain to adhere properly.
Post a picture.
Sorry, here is the picture!!
Added a picture to comment below….the pergola is very simple….
Hi, we have built a 12′ x 8′ x 8′ high pergola in June and plan to stain it in the Fall. We used eastern white cedar. I expect we will only need 1 gallon of semi transparent stain. My question is whether or not it is essential to do both the cleaning brightening process? We do not have access to a pressure washer. Thanks in advance!
Yes, you have to prep new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Just one coat and one gallon of stain.
We have a 25+ Recycled material (composite?) deck floor. Will the RAD solid stain work?
Sorry but it has not been tested for composite wood. In theory, it should work as long as it is porous.
My order was shipped 7/25. Do you have have a tracking number since I still have not received it?
Do you have an order number or last name?
1BE4032049 Susan Parker
We replied to your order email with the tracking info. Arrives today.
Our deck is 2 years old and made from IPE wood. I want to confirm that your cleaner and brightener products are safe for this wood. Also is your semi-transparent wood stain similar to an IPE oil? And is that what you would recommend for an IPE deck or do you have other suggestions that work better?
Thanks
Yes, they are safe for IPE. The RAD Stain works excellent for IPE: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-on-exotic-hardwoods-ipe.html
I have 10+ year old composite wood deck that is losing its color. I tested a interior polyurethane on a scrap piece and it brought the color back. I know poly will not work in outdoor applications however. Do you have a product that work to bring the color back and withstand Minnesota climate? Thinking of trying your semi transparent natural stain. Thoughts?
I am sorry but no, we do not have a stain for composite decks.
Okay thank you. Would there be negative
affects on my decking if I did apply it to the composite boards?
It may work fine and others have used it but we have not actually tested it.
for your solid RAD stain what type of roller should I get? the stores have so many to choose from. fabric, polyester/knit high or low density?
nap size?
thanks.
1/2″ to 5/8′ nap and any material will work as long as it says for latex coatings. We would not suggest a foam roller though.
We have a 3 year old Cypress/yellow cedar deck. We live in Washington state and the deck faces west. First year we used a clear sealer, by the next summer I had to sand it because it was so grey. Then used a tinted sealer, same result. Does your product work with this kind of wood? and if so will it be grey again in a year?
You can use our products on Cypress and Cedar. Strip and brighter for prep and then stain. Typically redo every 2-3 years.
I’d like to repaint my deck and am trying to figure out exactly what I need to do to prep it. There is mold/mildew on the decking and the boards are kind of rough. What exactly do I need to do to prepare it for painting? I’m thinking of using a RAD cleaner first. Do I need a brightener too if I’m just painting after? After the cleaner and brightener (if needed) I was planning on sanding with 80 grit paper to remove the roughness. Then I planned to prime and paint. Are there any other products I need or do I need to change the order of the steps? Thanks!
Use the Cleaner and pressure washer first and then you can sand after. No need for the brightener.
We have inherited a classic Maine “camp” built just after WWII and like other structures of its kind, it features open framing throughout the interior. The original knotty pine is much darkened and also shows areas of gray and water damage. I am wondering whether we might be able to bring it back to something like original condition using restore-a-deck cleaner and Brightener. Can they be used inside with ample ventilation? Will they work? I have already ordered stain samples to try on the deck, so I may be ordering these products anyhow.
When using the prep products you also will need to pressure wash and that typically will not work indoors due to the large volume of water being used.
What is the best method for staining a rough cedar fence with RAD semi-transparent? Can I use a pump sprayer and back brush?
Yes, that would be the easiest.
I’m trying to restore a 25 year old pressure treated deck with a railing. Approximately 500 square feet and stained with a solid stain 2-3 years ago. I’m replacing some boards (when pressure treated wood becomes available, there’s a little flaking but mostly just a worn out color with old boards. Which of the cleaner/stripper combinations would work? I’m planning on restaining with a new solid color.
Thanks!
Use this kit to remove as much as the loose or peeling solid stain as you can while pressure washing.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/order-restore-a-deck/rad-kits-best-price/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/flypage.tpl.html
I have tried pressure washing my deck (untreated cedar – and just using water) and it turns out I’m not great at doing it evenly. So, now the wood varies in color based on how evenly I cleaned it. If I use your cleaner and brightener on the whole deck before your semi- transparent stain, would I have a good chance of it evening out? Or, do I need to go back and ensure the pressure-wash job is perfectly even before proceeding? Or, would some light sanding work? Thanks!!
Post some pictures here.
Ah, okay, this represents the most stark contrast – as bad as it gets. thanks!
It would be best to go over this again with the RAD Cleaner/Brightener Kits while pressure washing again.
Okay, that’s what I thought! I did make a couple of grooves in the wood (not too deep – you can kind of see it in the 2nd picture, top step). Should I: 1. Sand it down before the entire cleaning/brightening process? 2. Sand it down after cleaning but before brightening? 3. Not worry too much about it?
I have read various pieces of advice about the “fuzzies.” I don’t really mind them too much… if I see them, could I leave them alone or do I need to sand? Final question about sanding: can I just sand in spots or do I need to sand the entire thing?
3. Not worry about it as spot sanding could make it worse as it will take the stain lighter. You do not have to worry about the fuzzies.
Hello,
We just installed two ~170sqft decks on our home with pressure treated supports, Moso bamboo deck surfaces, and Ipe railings. We are planning on applying your dark walnut semi-transparent stain on all surfaces after 3-4 months of weathering. Any concerns with the stain application on the bamboo or pressure treated surfaces?
Thanks,
Dominic
The RAD stain will not work on bamboo. Sorry.
Thanks for the reply. Do you know if the Armstrong Clark stains will work on bamboo?
No, they will not. No penetrating stain will work on bamboo as they cannot soak in.
Do you sell a 5 gallon bucket solid stain (instead of buying five 1-gallon)? I can’t see it offered in your product list.
Thanks
We only sell the solid in gallon sizes.
I have a new 3 month old Ponderosa treated wood deck. Should I sand the deck first? 60 grit with orbital sander? If I use your cleaner do I still need to use brightener? It’s 400 sq/ft so I assume I need 3 gal. gallons of sealer? Thx Pat
See this for tips on new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
No need to sand. Clean and brighten the wood. 3 gallons for the one coat is about right.
Our neighbor just stained their side of our shared fence with an oil-based stain. I want to use Restore-A-Deck on our side, but figure any cleaning/brightening we do will splatter onto their side and remove portions of their stain. What are the consequences of just sticking on a coat of water-based RAD on our side without the prep. Will it peel? Fence is UV damaged with a faded remnant of whatever stain was on there in the first place. We moved in 2 years ago, suspect oil-based was used prior. Just trying to be good neighbors while attending to the wood, and I hate the oil-based fumes and headache that goes with them.
No prep could result in a very uneven appearance and you cannot apply the RAD over a different brand of stain.
A few years ago I used BEHR products to stain our deck. In the past winter the stain was lifting. In the spring I started to redo the deck I used the BEHR remover and the cleaner in while in progress I did a lot of searching “How To” and came across your product. I followed all the directions and “how tos” to get the deck to stainability. I sanded the deck 80 grit hand sander put down one coat of stain as recomended.
I don’t know if I uas too light on the amount I used or if the wood asorbed more but there are areas that seem to be too light like the stain didn’t sink all the way. Question can I or should I put on a second coat??
Thank You
It will not be able to take another coating right now as the first has cured. You can lightly clean in the Spring of next year and add a coat then.
I got the restore a deck natural stain and it’s too yellow for my liking on my redwood deck. . Can I put a second coat on of the cedar to even out the color?
No, not after the coating has dried and cured as it will not be able to soak in. You would have to strip it off and then brighten the wood.
I am a bit confused. My back porch was done with Duck Back semi transparent oil stain. It looked good for about 6 months, after about a 1 1/2 it turned all black with mold…I used Mold Eraser and it did take most of it off…now 6 months later the surface in some spots is still a bit oily to the feel and a little black mold still is on a few areas. Would you suggest I sand with 60 to 80 grit sand paper to remove the oily areas and the left over black mold??? Please advise. Thank you.
Strip and brighten all the wood for the prep: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/order-restore-a-deck/rad-kits-best-price/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/flypage.tpl.html
Can I use other brands of semi transparent stain after using your cleaner and brightened? We are looking for other color choices you offer in semi transparent stain. Thanks.
Yes.
I am planning to apply your solid stain only to my railing. Do I need to strip it first? If not, what prep is necessary before applying the stain? Thanks for your help! Kris
Strip off what you can and then you can cover the rest with the RAD solid stain.
Will the RAD stripper harm the latex paint on my house?
It should not as long as it not peeling.
I think I have ruined my cedar deck and railing. I used the stripper with the Booster and the Gel additive yesterday and followed the directions. I powerwashed the stripper and not everything came off. I have 4-sided deck spindles and not all the finish is off there, either (the outside and sides of the spindles is pretty much intact.) I ran out of daylight last night and didn’t get the Brightener on it. The deck just kept foaming up the stripper and the deck was very slippery. I plan to spray the brightener on it after work today. Not sure what to do about the spindles. My deck is up high with no stairs off the deck, so whatever I do I will have to do it from an extension ladder. Can I still use the brightener on the deck?
Yes, brighten as soon as you can.
Hi, I have a 26 year old treated 5/4 deck, 228 s.f., that’s held up fairly well, was solid stained about 3 years ago and is in need of a refresh. I power-washed it, and am in the process of removing broken screws (most of them). For may boards I have been flipping them over and they look better. There seems to be a shortage of replacement boards at the big box stores.
My questions:
– Since it’s such an old deck, will it soak up all the stain?
– I have a mix of old boards with residual solid stain that didn’t all come off with power-wash, some boards flipped, and a couple new replaced boards. This leads me to a solid stain, but do I need to strip the boards where the previous stain wouldn’t power-wash off?
– Have new granddaughter, worried about splinters, so I’ve been sanding as I go with a hand sander 80 grit paper. I plan on a bigger sander with screen once I get the screws all figured out. Is it the brightener that opens up the wood to take stain, or do I need something else?
Thank you, you guys are great!
-it should
-You do not have to fully strip off the previous solid stain when using the RAD Solid Stain.
-Sand with 60 grit for better adhesion. Do a pressure wash with the brightener after.
Deck is 800 sq ft. pressure treated pine. 20 years old. Previous Behr semi-solid water-based stain applied 7 years ago, now stripped with Behr stripper . Pressure washed. Sanded with orbital upright sander-60 grit. Sanded again with small plane sander-60 grit. Frequent changing of sandpaper.
I intend to use RAD semi transparent cedar-tone.
I am confused about the number of coats recommended on sanded wood and whether the deck should go unstained for a month or 2 due to sanding process.
Should i delay staining for 1-2 months?
Should i apply 1 coat or 2 wet on wet?
How much stain should i purchase?
Thanks, Pat from Pennsylvania
Site for 1-2 months, clean and brighten for final prep. Just one coat of the RAD. 5-6 gallons of stain. One Cleaner/Brightener Kit.
I have a question about Heather’s post. I’m getting ready to put on a coat of you’t dessert Taupe solid stain. what do u mean by don’t back brush. when I put on the first coat last year I rolled it on and then smoothed it down with a brush. was I not supposed to do that?
No need to do this and if you back brush a solid stain after it starts to dry, it can cause streaking. Just apply evenly and let dry.
Hi Lin
I back brush only when solid stain is put on immediately. For instance, i have done in the past 2 deck board pieces by roller then immediately back brush them. I haven’t used RAD brand before so I’m not sure about streaking. Maybe they can clarify.
I stained my deck two years ago, using your natural semi-transparent stain. At the time, I put on two coats, and it turned out beautiful. I was very happy with it. It still looks okay, but there are spots where the stain is wearing thin and the deck wood is showing through. I would like to restain it this year, putting on just one additional coat. What do you think? Would that be appropriate to do so now? At the time, I bought 6 gallons to cover about 950 square feet. I only need to restain about 800 square (the remaining 150 square feet is not being hit by the sun and still looks like new). I have about 2 gallons of stain left over (I’m guessing that I may not have put it on as thickly as I could have). Is that 2-year-old stain still usable? And how much if any additional stain do you think I need to recover the 800 square feet with one coat? Also I am assuming that I will need to put on the deck cleaner and brightener before I restain. Am I correct about that. Thank you
Use, clean, and brighten for prep. The coverage for 1 coat is about 150-200 sq feet per gallon. The older stain should be okay but open it up and test spot first.
do you color match solid stain if I provide a brand and color code?
We do not.
Assuming I follow all instructions, use 2 coats of solid stain how long can I expect the stain etc to last under winter/sun conditions in Vermont
2-3 years.
1100 sq ft
previously used Valspar semi-trans applied extreme heat July 2019, peeling from flash dry?
1. Use stripper/brightner with power washer?
2. Want to use Solid Stain-Espresso seems closest to pic. Is 2 coats applied by roller with back brush (church- high traffic area) going to peel again?
3. Confused by forum/instructions/answers= wet on wet application is for semi? Solid color, wait till 1st coat is dried completely?
10 gallons?
That is not semi-transparent but solid opaque in appearance. The main reason it failed is due to Valspar making poor stains and selling products that are not true semi-transparent stains but rather filming opaque stains.
1. Strip off as much as you can as it cannot be fully stripped. Let dry and spot sand any more loose stain. You can over the stain that is not peeling with the RAD Solid stain.
2. Two coats. It is not back brushed. Let the first coat dry fully first before applying the 2nd. The RAD will not peel but that would depend on the Valspar staying intact to your wood under the RAD. The only way to know for sure would be to 100% sand off the Valspar.
3. With the solid stains. Let the first coat dry fully first before applying the 2nd.
4. Sound correct.
Thank you. Seeing your product page…another water based RAD solid or would you go with AC oil based?
You cannot use the Armstrong stains or any stain that is not a solid stain unless you want to fully sand off the Valspar?
Re–the solid stains: the white is too bright, coast grey is too dark. Can I mix them and get a shade in between?
Yes, you can mix them.
I have an 8×14 covered deck.. Treated pine. 112 square feet. Elevated off ground. 3 steps with rails. Two side rails all around. 7 foot tall with ceiling covered with galvanized metal roofing. It is one year old Had no prior treatment. Pressure washed once because it is under trees and has started to mildew in several places due to humidity and no sunlight. I have a pressure washer. What do I need to have done to it to stop the mildew and what products to protect it with application do I need? Do you recommend treating the ceiling and if you recommend spraying what effect will it have on the underside of the metal. I am elderly so I will have to hire it done and would appreciate as much info as possible to pass along. Thank you.
There is not a way to “stop” mildew from growing on top of the wood. For the prep, use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener kits: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Restore-A-Deck-Packages/Restore-A-Deck-Package-300/flypage.tpl.html
For the stain, use the RAD Stain: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-1-gallon/flypage.tpl.html
Spray or roll? Treating ceiling boards? Effect Galvalume roof and will it come off metal ?
Prep would not harm the roof but keep the stain off it. Use stain pads or brushes for the stain.
Deck after stripper and pressure washing
Just finished using the RAD stripper. Some stain still remains. The stain was sherwin Williams. Do I brighten then sand off rest or let it dry for a day then sand followed by the brighter?
The SW was a solid stain. Are you using the RAD Solid stain or the Semi-transparent?
I’m going to use Armstrong-Clark semi transparent
You will need to sand to remove the rest of the SW stain and then Brightener.
Ok thanks
So I thought I sanded all old stain off. After Brightener I realize some still remains. If I sand it off what steps do I need to take before I can stain? Thanks.
Brighten again. Sand with 60-80 grit paper.
is it possible to order your wood stain for delivery to Halifax, Nova Scotia Canada? If yes what is the cost for product and shipping? I was amazed by the reviews on your product!
Yes. Just add to cart and enter your shipping info for the total cost.
How can I remove the stain drippings from my aluminum ladder?
I am sorry but do not know what you mean and what kind of “stain” a ladder would create?
I used your semi transparent wood stain to refinish the siding on my garage. The stain dripped on the aluminum ladder and I need to clean the ladder.
Use a graffiti remover cleaner from your local paint store.
Thank you!
Hello:
I previously contacted you regarding refinishing a Mahogany Deck a couple of years ago. The Deck(s) are comprised of three separate areas…two are located on both the East and West facing sky as well as, a covered segment. The East facing Deck should have been refinished a couple of years ago and really needs it now, in fact I’ve noticed the grain is raised. The West side needs it too but the Sun hasn’t done as much damage. The covered portion needs washing/cleaning and then refinishing. All areas are approximately 7 years old…all have been coated with allegedly quality semi-transparent, oil based penetrating stains several times, always pressure washed prior to coating. Photos are attached.
At the time you had recommended a stain that would match the original Honey Brown. Unfortunately all related data had been lost on a compromised memory drive!
Thank you,
Bob Wainwright
For the Prep, use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/order-restore-a-deck/rad-kits-best-price/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/flypage.tpl.html
For the Stain, try the Restore A Deck Stain in Natural. It will give a look that is similar to a clean “wet look”. For a little more color, try the Light Walnut. It will be a richer reddish/brown.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-5-gallon/flypage.tpl.html
Thanks for your prompt reply. I was perusing your Web Page and found this page “Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain on Exotic Hardwoods IPE” the color shown on this page is very, very close to that on the interior deck area. I don’t plan on stripping the interior portion and, the exterior that needs refinishing is directly adjacent.Therefore both will need to be very close in finish. Ideally, using the recommended Kit for IPE Hardwood, I’d like to strip, brighten and stain the exterior and just wash and re-coat the interior. As the exterior’s grain is raised would probably have to sand it?
What’s your opinion of the “TWP 1500” material for my application? Which color to achieve my goal of attaining that shown on the aforementioned “Hardwood IPE” page. Please refer to the attached photos.
Thank you for your help.
Bob Wainwright
The interior has to be stripped as well as you cannot apply a different stain brand like the RAD over a previous coating. If you cannot strip then you will have to sand it off with 60-80 grit and then clean and brighten for prep after. The color for the RAD stain on the picture of the page you mentioned is Light Walnut on IPE wood.
TWP 1500 is not designed for hardwoods.
Add to Pete.
900 sq feet deck. 30 year old pressure treated pine. underneath red oak forest. Various transparent stains thru the years. No stain in last 10 yrs. How to proceed? The rails are dismal. How long before covering new wood? Thanks.
Hello,
For the prep, use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener Kit. 2 of each.
For the stain, use the RAD in semi-transparent, about 10 gallons. Cobo kits are the best price: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-5-gallons-and-cleaner-brightener-combo-kit/flypage.tpl.html
See here about any new boards: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
I have a new deck. Pressure treated pine. It has aged 6 months. I have about 920 square feet. I will need Cleaner, Brightner and I’m going to use the solid Coastal Gray stain. How much of each of these products will I need?
2 each of the RAD Cleaner and Brightener. About 8-10 Gallons of the solid stain for two coats.
If I am using your stripper and brightener on a log home and then apply a borate coat to the entire home. What prep is required before using your stain?
You are already doing the prep with the stripper and brightener. You should use both additives as well when stripping: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Hi,
I used Restore-a-Deck stain (light walnut) on my deck a bit over a year ago and I would like to apply the same stain again in the near future. I’ve read on this website that before doing so, I should first do a light application of the cleaner and brightener. I’m wondering what is meant by a “light application” of the cleaner and brightener. Should I apply a smaller amount of the cleaner and brightener than usual? Should I not power wash to the same degree as usual? Or is there something else I should be aware of?
Thanks very much.
You can use the Cleaner and Brightener at 1/2 strength for maintenance coats.