We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
How long after 4 days of rain can I stain my deck. Can I prep the deck days before staining.
Try to stain withing 2 weeks of prep.
can your RAD solid stain be used on patio pavers? it would match my deck that I just stained
No, it will not work for this.
I’ve just finished staining my deck and I’m very pleased with the results. I had to aggressively sand my deck and thus it’s a bit lighter than I would like. What is the absolute minimum I have to wait to put on a second coat? Thanks!
I have just finished staining my deck. I’m very pleased with the results. I had to strip and sand like a madwoman because I did not know what the original product on the deck was, and the two coats on top of that was the semi-transparent Behr. It’s very light though and a bit splotchy since the sanding was so aggressive. What is the absolute minimum time I need to wait to put on a second coat?
Thanks! Miriam
6-12 months. Clean with the RAD Cleaner first.
Thanks! Please ignore my second post. I somehow reloaded the page to August 3rd and since I didn’t see my question I asked it again. Yes. I’m tired.
Thanks again, Miriam
Sorry if posting twice. My deck area is approximately 600 Sq ft, 7 years old, treated lumber, last stained 5 years ago with I believe a solid acrylic stain. Please confirm that I understand the steps if I decide to use solid stain: lightly power wash, apply cleaner, rinse, apply brightener, rinse, let dry. Apply 2 coats of solid stain, letting dry between coats. If I decide to use semitransparent, then I need to strip and/or sand? First step? And apply wet? Thanks! Would you recommend solid or semi-transparent based on the picture?
You cannot strip off a solid stain fully so that means you would have to sand it off if you want the semi-transparent. For using the RAD Solid Stain, your prep is correct.
Never got an answer to my question:
Sam · 08/15/2020
This is suppose to be eco friendly, but is it safe to use on a dock in a lake? Will washing this product or the brightener into the lake cause problems?
Yes, it safe for a lake.
In June 2018 I replaced my deck floor with mahogany, but not the spindles or rails. I let it weather until September 2018 and then used cleaner and brightener before putting on a RAD stain. I plan to use a RAD stain again this coming September. Do I need to use both cleaner and brightener before using the RAD stain. Should I use only one coat, or wet-on-wet coat, or two coats. What about on the very weathered top rails–one coat or two.
Use both for prep and just one coat for Mahogany wood. Other wood types can get two coats.
I just cleaned, brightened and stained my 1 year old deck for the first time. How long do I wait to put furniture back and walk/sit on it as normal?
24 hours.
1) I used the RAD stripper with the RAD booster on 50% of my 2 year old deck. I used the stripper instead of the cleaner as I couldn’t find out from the contractor who built my deck whether they used an oil based or water based product. I am a bit concerned that with only using a brush, in the shade, that a lot of the top layer of the wood was partially removed leaving very “fury” planks that I am now going to have to sand. Is this normal?
2) I have not applied the brightener as of yet opting to wait until after sanding. Is this advisable? How long can I wait to use the brightener after stripping a deck?
3) Given the problem that I had using the stripper is it advisable to just use the cleaner?
1. It does not look like it was stained or sealed ever. You were too aggressive with the products and should have not used the stripper but the cleaner. You will need to sand this off.
2. Brighten after the sanding.
3. Yes and also pressure wash after applying the cleaner.
Hi–just wanted to know if the ‘natural’ stain is basically clear, or does it have a tint
Thanks
The Natural is tinted. It has to be tinted for UV protection from graying.
Hello,
We have two ages of cedar wood , the deck and a newly built bench.
cedar deck is 4 years old, original stain behr semi transparent. We stripped the deck two years ago with defy stripper and brightener. Got about 90% of the old stain off before applying RAD semi transparent cedar color. We can tell where the Behr didn’t peel off.
Our question now is the best order to go in to get the newly built and old deck to match up with the same RAD stain.
Also, the cleaner we have is bullfrog and says to not clean new cedar or redwood due to reddening.
My guess is we sand deck and clean and brighten both in 3 months, although I really don’t want to sand. The plus is the deck will now be covered from rain. It’s 90-100 right now so staining the new bench seems less than Ideal.
youre help is very appreciated
See here about the new wood and how to prep and stain: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
For the older wood, strip and brighten for the prep: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/order-restore-a-deck/rad-kits-best-price/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/flypage.tpl.html
This will get the wood to match as close as possible but the new wood will stain lighter since it is less absorbent.
How quick is shipping to PA?
About 3-5 days.
(Apologies the previous post did not get uploaded correctly)
We are trying to refinish a deck which we don’t have much history about – we don’t know how old it is or what kind of applications (stain, solid stain, deck paint) might have been applied before.
We tried using a Behr stripper but that didn’t help much. We then used Citristrip which helped get most of the previous stain/paint off – but we aren’t sure if that’s enough or we should also plan to sand. Please advise what would be best next steps and which of your products we should use.
Please see a couple of pictures of before and after using the using the stripper.
Hello, we responded below already.
We are trying to refinish a deck which we don’t have much history about – we don’t know how old it is or what kind of applications (stain, solid stain, deck paint) might have been applied before.
We tried using a Behr stripper but that didn’t help much. We then used Citristrip which helped get most of the previous stain/paint off – but we aren’t sure if that’s enough or we should also plan to sand. Please advise what would be best next steps and which of your products we should use.
Please see a couple of pictures of before and after using the using the stripper.
You have a solid stain so it cannot be stripped off fully and you will need to reapply another solid stain: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-solid-stain.html
For final prep, just make sure you sand off any loose stain. You can cover the intact stain with the new solid stain.
Thank you, couple of additional questions.
After sanding any loose stain do we go straight to applying solid stain or should we plan to clean, brighten before applying solid stain? Also is a primer required before applying your solid stain?
Hello, you cannot use a primer first. You should be able to stain right after as long as the deck is free of sand dust, etc.
My deck and stairs (3 flights and 5 landings) are 20+ years old. Solid stain was last applied 5 years ago. I scraped, powerwashed and sanded with a belt sander and orbital sander. About 40% of stain was removed.
I have just finished with the stripper(powerwashed prior to brightener) Perhaps another 10% of stain was removed. Here are my questions:
1.Brightener mixed as directed and left on for 20 minutes never sudsed as I flooded with water. Why not?
2. Some loose stain still remains. I plan to scrape again once the wood lis dry. Is there anything else I should do to ensure good stain adhesion.
This had been an exhausting job for a 78 year old woman and I still have a deck which thankfully had only a transparent stain in the past
1. It is small suds, not heavy.
2. No, just make sure all loose stain is removed.
Used the RAD stripper and brightener on cedar garage doors. Afterwards there was quite a bit of furring that I hand sanded with 80 grit to get rid of furring. Do I have to clean and brighten again or just move on to the semi-transparent Armstrong-Clark stain.
You can stain now.
I’m ready to strip my deck and purchased stripper, gel and booster additives. After I mix them together can I still apply with a pump sprayer?
Yes.
Hello,
I’m about to undertake a much postponed job. To refinish a series of Mahogany Decks, Stairs and Porches. The wood is approximately 10 years old, although they have been washed and finished with reputable(?) semi-transparent oil based stain several times. Nothing has been done over the last couple of years. Each has unique requirements; the principle Deck (exterior), landing and stairs require stripping, sanding?, brightening and finally staining. The surface is somewhat rough, perhaps the grain is raised and needs sanding. Should it be sanded before stripping and brightening or after? Of the original staining only patches remain. There’s a small deck on the opposite side of the house, also exterior, requiring the same attention as the main deck. There remains quite a bit more residual stain…as this is subjected to much less Sun… therefore requiring less sanding. The last…a Porch is under a roof, the finish has stood up quite well but it needs a refreshing coat, I plan to pressure wash this floor and re-stain it.
The original overall finish is/was a honey brown, actually it is exactly that shade on the flooring which is shown on your site in the, “section specifically designated for IPE or exotic hardwoods.” All Floors to be stained using the same Oil Based Stain.
First, does my process for the job seem correct? If I use the same stain shade on all surfaces will the results appear somewhat similar, that is, on a stripped and brightened surface and on the washed surface? The Porch and the Main Deck are adjacent and interface at the Porch door way. The available light, natural is not the same for the Porch is roof covered and the Deck not.
All surfaces to be finished are floors (horizontal). Square areas (ft): to be stripped and brightened = 265, the area to be pressure washed and just re-stained = 180. Total area to be stained ~ 445
Strip and brighten all wood is the correct way to do this. No need to sand.
What specific oil based stain do you recommend? Will I be able to apply it over the just P washed surface? Will it look much different compared to the stripped, brightened surface?
The Main Deck is rough, it seems the grain has risen as the wood weathered.
We suggest our stain which is water-based: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-on-exotic-hardwoods-ipe.html
Once you strip and remove all and then brighten it will all look the same.
Thanks for the Quick reply. I live in the Northeast. Do you think water based stain will protect and stand up to the weather on the Mahogany as well as oil based? As mentioned, part of the job will be covering an area that will only be pressure washed, it presently it is coated with a penetrating oil based stain.
Total area to be treated is approx. 450 square feet. What is the coverage per gallon for whichever stain I use. What shade of stain should I use…currently what was there was a warm Honey brown.
For the remainder of the job I will be stripping/brightening approximately 300 square feet are your Kits sold by area to be treated?
My original communication contains photos to assist your recommendations.
Thanks for your help.
Yes, water-based will work as well as long as they are penetrating like the RAD semi-transparent. You cannot just pressure wash, you have to strip/brighten all when switching brands. No way around this and it does not matter if using oil or water-based, it has to come off all areas to be coated. Once all 450 sq feet is stripped and brightened, you can then switch. One kit will cover this. Most use the RAD in Light Walnut.
I’m preparing to order the necessary supplies to;Strip, Brighten and Stain (water based) approx. 300 sq ft of exterior Mahogany decking and stairs. Please let me know how much of each product to order.
Thank you for your help In preparing for this job.
BW
One Stripper/Brightener kit and about 2 gallons of the stain for the one coat: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-1-gallon/flypage.tpl.html
Will your RAD solid stain stick to caulk? I replaced several side boards that meet up with a patio edge and there is a large gap I need to fill.
Should I prime the caulk first?
A primer will not work for a solid stain. It should cover the caulk.
I just used your RAD stripper to one level of my multi level cedar deck. I have another level to do strip next weekend. Can I apply the RAD brightener to both levels when I’m done stripping? One level will be wet, the other will be dry. Is one method preferred? I can not find any information on applying the brightener to a wet or dry surface.
It is best to apply the brightener the same day and as soon as you are done with the stripping. If you did not do this, then do it as soon as you are able. Does not matter if wet or dry.
Pouring from the large stain container to a smaller container resulted in large spill. Anyway to remove the RAD stain from our concrete?
Try the RAD stripper and pressure washing.
Can RAD semi-transparent stain be applied to a new cedar fence as one coat or wet on wet?
Depends if rough sawn to smooth wood. See this for tips: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Hello! I have ordered to stripper, brightener, gel and booster and only need to make a small quantity for a section of a door. Do you have the ratios for me?
Thanks
To make one gallon of the stripper, use 8 oz of powder. Add 1/5 of the bottle for both booster and gel. The same amount of powder for the brightener.
do i need to use the brightner immediately after stripping or can I wait a few days?
Right away is best.
How do I mix the step 1 cleaner for use in a power washer?
It cannot be applied through a power washer.
I applied RAD semi Transparent, should rain water pool after its applied, I have 2 coats on 1 section, if it should can I apply a 3rd coat? It’s been 2 days since the 2 coat was applied.
No, you cannot apply a third coat. Rain sheds off the stain.
We have use the RAD cleaner and brighter to prepare our deck yesterday. However in one section of the deck, which is in the shade most of the time, it seems like the green which seems like moss was not fully remove (see picture). Should we redo the cleaner and brighter?
Yes try to but if the green is deep in the wood grain, it will not come out.
Good morning,
I’ve used your RAD products in the past on my deck with great success.
My next project is to restore my cedar fence. I used Penofin on it about 12 years ago and it has turned orange over the years. There is still some finish (obviously) on the boards.
What products would you suggest I use to prepare it for restraining?
Thanks,
Steve
The RAD stripper and brightener kits for prep and then the RAD semi-transparent stain.
I am planning to prep and apply solid stain to my PT deck. However, I have had to replace several deck boards with new wood on the perimeter of the deck. The question is can I first stain the deck in two passes: first pass, prep and stain the old wood, second pass, the new wood on the perimeter after the new wood has weathered? Will prepping the perimeter wood damage the deck that has already been stained?
Do it all at the same time is the correct way. Breaking it up will make it much harder and you could have some issues as well.
I applied RAD to my deck after a complete sanding off of a solid stain. I followed your recommendations and only applied one coat as it was a newly sanded deck. It turned out beautiful!!! The Midwest has tough winters and I’d like to apply another coat in late fall. In a small test area RAD seemed to adsorb very well. Questions- 1. Should I not be concerned that is has only one coat? 2. What would be the results if I applied a second coat in a few weeks? Thank you
You cannot apply another coat in a few weeks, it will not take. It is fine through the Winter. Clean in Spring and apply then.
I used RAD 2 years ago on my 300 sq ft deck (treated lumber) and it now needs a new coat. Do I need cleaner and brightener or what exactly. It is actually in pretty good shape . The most exposed areas are no longer repelling rain and I want to restain/waterproof
Just use the RAD Cleaner for prep.
i used a behr solid stain which is peeling. it’s basically a poor “acrylic/latex paint.” I scraped off about 98% of the coating, I want to use your water based solid wood stain. what do you recommend for further deck preparation?
Give it a good pressure wash and then you can stain
I wrote to you about a month ago about sanding my 20+ year old redwood deck and you advised me to clean and brighten it after sanding it prior staining it with the natural semi-transparent stain. Now, I may not be able to complete the sanding process due to health reasons and I wondering if the stain will look dramatically different on the sanded portion as opposed to the un-sanded area? I will still be using the RAD cleaner and brightener prior to staining the deck. Thank you in advance for your reply.
It will stain lighter in the sanded areas.
Our 20-25 year old deck is approximately 1100sq ft. It wraps around the west side of our walk out ranch, open to the wicked weather coming across the lake, the south side is covered. We have owned it for about 10 years. We do not know what stain nor how many times the former owner stained it. About 4 years ago my husband stained it with an oil semi transparent stain from Lowes or Home Depot. He does not remember the name. In one year, it did not look good. As you can in the see in the pictures, the railing/spindles still has a bit of color however the floorboards do not. You can also see where my husband started to pressure wash the floor. We have ordered 3, 5 gallon semi-transparent water based stain cans of RAD Dark Walnut and will use the Rad cleaner or stripper and brightener kits depending on your answers. We will be putting two coats on.
My questions please:
• Do we need to strip it all? I believe your cleaner is a light stripper. Will that be enough with the brightener even though 4 years ago oil was used – since we are going a little darker with the new stain?
• Staining the spindles on the railing – what is the best way to stain them? If spraying the front and then going around to spray the back, does the stain also adhere to the inner sides? If not spraying use a pad? Or stain it one way the first coat and the other for the second coat?
• If we clean/strip and brighten the day before instead of the same day should we hose down the deck before applying the stain?
We really appreciate your taking the time to answer our questions. Thank you!
Yes you need to strip this. Use a stain pad or brush for the spindles. You could get away with just one coat on the spindles. You can stain the next day to a dry or damp deck.
We are now stripping and applying brightener following all directions on the back of the item bags. When we apply the brightener and leave it on the directed time then rinse it off with the power-washer NO suds are being released. We kept rinsing for the appropriate time and still no suds appeared to be washing off. Why? And what to do advise please.
It is not heavy suds but small bubbles. Just rinse all wood well for 20-30 minutes and you will be fine.
I have a no.1 pine deck that was installed about 11 months ago. I let it sit over the winter and through the summer, until now and was planning on staining with your product. Yesterday I used the cleaner and brightener (used a scrub brush and power washer with the cleaner and alot of “pulpy” type material fluffed off). Now there is a considerable amount furries throughout the bench and bartop areas. Some on the deck surface, but not as bad as bench and bartop. The wood is still damp from the prep, so it seems that sanding is not helping remove them, using a floor buffer is not an option. Should I wait until it is completely dry or go ahead and stain over the furries?
That is from excessive oxidation/graying of the wood that had to come off. Best to let it fully dry and then buff them off. Very easy to do. Stain after.
Without being able to use a floor buffer, as mentioned in other comments, will sandpaper work? what grit? 80, 120?
Why can you not use a buffer? You can sand but easier to buff. 60-80 grit paper.
i dont think using a floor buffer on a bartop or bench would be practicle
Just sand then.
Here are some pics as it stands right now
1. I have 2 gallons of SOLID BODY RAD stain left over. Never opened. What is the “shelf life” if I keep it? 2. What is the ‘cure’ time frame? 3. What if it rains after 5 hours of finishing the second coat? 4. Please explain, in detail, the recommended maintenance after the two coats of your product. Exact procedure please, with approx. time frame. THANK YOU for all your help!!!!!
1. Couple of years or longer but it cannot freeze.
2. 1-2 days.
3. It should be fine.
4. Just clean and recoat as needed when it starts to show any wear. About every 2-3 years.
I have repurposed Ipe decking that I reversed because it was painted. The boards have discolored where they were in contact with the pressure treated frame. Will RAD help neutralize the stains?
The marks are most likely deep water stains. If so, nothing will remove them.
Can I use this product around bushes and plants?
All products are eco-safe but do take care to cover surrounding areas to protect from overspray.
What is the shelf life of mixed stripper in a pump up sprayer? In other words, can I leave it in the sprayer for a day or two, or must it all be used and then the sprayer cleaned? Thanks.
About a week or two but the stripper will not go bad, but the sprayer’s seals could be compromised.
how long is ground shipping to canada?
Depends on where in Canada?
b3g1b9. eastern passage, NS. Just looking for a ballpark as it doesn’t say in checkout. Is this a get it in a week kinda thing, or get it in October.
Timing is about 4-8 days to arrive.
I forgot to add this is for a Redwood rough-cut fence
I got the restore-a-deck stain and was going to use a Graco Magnum X7 sprayer to apply it and backbrush as I go. It says not to dilute it when using a pump sprayer – is there any recommendation on PSI or the tip I should use? Thanks
Do not dilute. Tip size does not matter.
Recently built a porch over a PT deck. I plan on using stripper with additives and a solid stain on the PT deck. Will the stripper damage fiberglass screening both on the sides of the porch as well as underneath the porch? Also, could the stripper damage a Trex railing system?
You do not need the stripper for new wood. Use the Cleaner and then the Brightener. Does not harm fiberglass or Trex.
What is the shipping cost for 2 gallons of stain to zip code 61073
Best to add to cart and enter shipping info for the total cost.
I plan on using RAD solid stain on a 25 year old previously stained deck. I recently replaced several boards with new pressure treated lumber. How long should I wait before staining the deck given that several boards are now new?
Thanks!
The new wood needs to weather for 3+ months and then be prepped: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
RAD 8/10/2020
We have purchased your Cleaner and Brightener, along with the stain for our new deck. We put the redwood deck in 6 months ago and were thinking about prepping and staining it this month. Upon inspection today, we noticed some of the boards still have that reddish hue to them, while others are starting to turn a silver-grey. Should we wait another month or longer for all the wood to further age, for better stain penetration?
Thank you
You should be okay to prep and stain: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
I rebuilt a 14′ x 28′ deck last summer using 2×6 PT Fir. I plan on using cleaner and then brightener. I may do this in stages depending on:
1) What is the maximum amount of time between brightener and applying a a solid stain?
2) Are there any issues with getting cleaner and/or brightener on freshly painted (dried) portions of the deck?
3) Coverage is advertised as “200 to 350” feet per gallon. That is quite a range and I will try and order plenty as I don’t want to run out in the middle of a project. What is the shelf life of your solid color stain?
4) Will any decent grade synthetic (nylon) brush be OK? Any preference of brush vs roller?
Thanks for any comments.
1. About 2 weeks.
2. You should prep all first before staining anything.
3. A couple of years if unopened.
4. Both rollers and brushes are best. Any quality one will work.
Thank You.
do you ship to Canada
Yes, we do.
I am getting ready to apply a maintenance coat of your stain on a deck that was stained using your product about 2 years ago. Instructions say to clean with the cleaner product and then apply maintenance coat. Before doing so, I want to verify if I skip the brighter step after cleaner and before stain?
No need to brighten when reapplying a maintenance coat.
Can dogs walk on the deck after the semi-transparent stain is dry to the touch?
Yes.