We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
I sanded the deck itself but could not get between the copper spindles so now plan to use stripper on the deck and rails together. As i do that, should i expect the stripper to affect the tarnish on the copper spindles or the weathered creosote on the cedar siding? I’m not sure what the last finish was, but know that it was not TWP which i plan to use this time. The finish on the beams and posts, which are not exposed, is is still in good shape and is very close to the color i plan to use. Is there a compelling reason to strip and recoat those as well or would it be ok to wait until the finish deteriorates in the future before stripping and refinishing? Lastly, is there a maximum time between stripping, brightening and recoating?
You do have to remove any previous coatings first. It should not harm the copper but test spot first. it will remove the oxidation from the siding if you get the stripper and or brightener on it. You must brighten after using the stripper. Stain within two weeks of prep.
Can your solid stain be used on a previously painted porch?
It will not work over a paint but it will work over another solid stain.
Hi, we cleaned and brightened our cedar posts this past weekend. We were planning on staining this coming weekend but our schedule has changed. Is it ok to wait until the following weekend to stain – so it will be 2 weekends after cleaning and brightening. This is for our front and back porch cedar posts. (We don’t have a wood deck)
Yes, that is fine.
I applied one coat of your semi trans to my newly sanded deck last Fall. It made it through the year and look pretty good with a little fading. My plan was to clean, brighten and add another coat before this winter.
However today I applied the cleaner with a backpack sprayer and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Then I went to pressure wash it off much of the stain started to peel off leaving large splotchy areas all over the deck. What is left of the stain is soft and peels off with a little rubbing. Somehow the cleaner acted more as a stripper. I assume that I will have to purchase a stripper and apply that to the remaining stain. Thoughts?
Any idea why it dissolved such big areas of stain? Thanks
If the older coating starts to deteriorate then the cleaner acts appropriately and removes it. At this point, it would be best to remove, brighten, and then stain.
Is this going to happen every time I need to apply a new coat of stain? The original coat was still in decent shape, I don’t want to have to strip the whole deck every time I need to add a coat of stain
That will vary based on how it weathers. Stripping is not any harder than cleaning and it many cases is easier. Gives a better foundation and overall better performance for the stain.
Frankly, that’s a bit frustrating. I bought the cleaner because I didn’t want to strip the deck with caustic chemicals. If it is just going to strip it off why sell a cleaner or call it something different? That means I wasted $50ish on cleaner and now need to buy a stripper and wait the week plus it’s going to take to get here. Is there a way to apply the cleaner without it dissolving the previous coat? Also there are some areas that aren’t terrible but are splochy as in the picture. Will I be able to apply a coat or two of stain over this and have it turn out uniform? Thanks for your help
This is normal. Our cleaner is designed for reapplication, not for general cleaning. All deck cleaners will remove a previous coating if it has deteriorated. None will just clean without having some effect on the previous coating. Honestly, you are blaming the product for doing what it is intended to do. Prep the surface for reapplication by cleaning dirt, grime, mildew, and deteriorated coatings if applicable.
You could just reclean with the cleaner and use a little more pressure with the washer and it will get the wood even in appearance as well instead of stripping. This would help even it out in appearance when stained.
Ok, I’m in the exact same boat here. I stained my freshly sanded redwood deck last fall with RAD. (cleaned, brightened and stained). It started peeling up in a few spots over the summer so I figured it was time to re-apply. I just applied the cleaner to my deck but didn’t use the brightener as you guys told me, a few weeks ago, on this forum, that using brightener was not necessary. Just apply cleaner and restain. I even confirmed and asked specifically if brightener was necessary and was told it was not. I was reading through this FAQ to find out of it was better to apply one coat or two on a re-application while I waited for my deck to dry and I stumbled across this thread…
So I had the exact same results. The cleaner stripped off some of the stain completely, but left the stain almost completely intact in other areas. Should I strip and/or pressure wash the deck to completely remove the old coat? I was not under the impression when I bought this product that that was not necessary. I read quite a bit that all you had to do was clean and re-apply?? I didn’t use a pressure washer, just a deck brush.
Easier would be to reclean using a pressure washer and the cleaner. This will it will even out.
So are you saying that the entire previous coat of RAD should be removed with cleaner / pressure washer? The new coat will not cover the previous coat?
At this point, yes so it evens out.
Do I need to use brightener after? I was told before that was not necessary. Also, should I apply one coat or two?
We are in a drought here. I finished stripping and applied the brightener before I ran out of water. I could not rinse the brightener off. Any advice? Thanks!
You must rinse off the brightener or you will have a reaction with the stain. There is no way around it.
Will the dried-on brightener rinse off with just water and a light brushing? The peak of the house is 32ft high, so scrubbing won’t happen there.
You will need a pressure washer rinse.
Unfortunately, I don’t have enough water or water pressure for my 2100 psi pressure washer. If I was a professional, possibly I could solve that with a 12v pump? I am not opposed to buying technology if it would help. Late fall is approaching, and will soon bring freezing temperatures. I think the best I can do is hand wash the siding as best I can, let it dry for a few days and apply the stain. It looks gorgeous now, stripped. It has some wet splotches due to recent rain in this pic.
You can rent a water tank truck and then rinse well. You cannot hand scrub off a brightener. You need to rinse.
I’m staining a new wood cedar greenhouse and had a few questions:
1. The wood has some dark water stains. Should I use oxalic acid to clean these or will your cleaning product take care of them?
2. One of your descriptions seems to imply that any sanding should be done between cleaning and brightening. Is it okay to sand really rough spots before cleaning?
3. I have many wood glazing strips that I want to stain before nailing to the structure. Can I clean and brighten these in a bathtub and then stain? Any concerns about the cleaning or brightening products being rinsed into the septic system?
Thanks.
1. If the water stains are deep in the wood grain that you cannot get it out with any color.
2. Sure.
3. No, you cannot prestain or prep in a tub.
Please read this about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Not sure I’m following your response to my last question. What precludes doing the prep work in a tub.
Thanks.
Please read the article we sent. New wood has to be installed, weathered outside for 3+ months and then prepped after that.
Greetings,
I just completed step 3 of Restore-a-Deck on my deck, including sanding off the top layer of an old paint/stain and just now putting on a semi-transparent cedar stain. It looks pretty good now but I have a concern. It’s quite obvious that I applied slightly more stain on the first 10 or so planks because they are a shade darker than the rest. I was being careful not to put too much stain per your directions about “only what it readily soaks up”. I would like to go back a second time to even out the shading, but since this was sanded wood before application, your directions specifically say only one coat until a year passes. I am worried now that we will have a two-tone deck until a year passes. What do you recommend? A picture is added so you can see the difference.
You cannot add another coat now but you can in the Spring. Lightly clean first.
Live in Canada (across from Detroit). I have a 25 year old deck. Stained over 13 years ago. This past June I power washed and sanded. Looks great. 1. Can I still stain this time of year? 2. I believe I only need to clean and brighten (no stripping) Can you confirm? 3.Which stain & colour do you recommend if I want a natural colour? 4. How many coats required? 5. How long to ship to Canada?
As long as all old stain was removed, you can clean and brighten for prep. You can stain through October. Use the Restore A Deck Semi-Transparent stain. Two coats applied wet on wet. Shipping takes 2-3 days to Ontario.
Following up on my questions about my redwood deck…
I am unsure which stain to purchase, to enhance the natural redwood color.
Do you have a photo of what the newly stripped and brightened redwood will appear with your various stains?
Thanks again!
John in SF
Color varies based on age, wood type, how it is applied, etc. Best to test samples to see how it will look on your wood as not all will be the same in final color: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-stain-samples.html
I have an upper and lower deck. The lower deck is screened in and has already been cleaned and stained with a solid stain. Will your cleaning product hurt the stain on my lower deck when I clean the upper deck?
It is possible that you may get some discoloration.
i have a brand new deck (2 months old) pressure treated pine. Live in Louisiana so we have extreme heat and sun exposure, high humidity and rain. How to proceed? Do I need the cleaner? I do not want to stain the deck, so best product to proceed for best protection?
See this about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
I was told in a previous thread that since I have aluminum balusters, it would be better for me to brush the stain in on damp wood. The brush you have your site looks to large for me to use in conjunction with my spindles. (plus i’d rather not pay 13.99 for shipping a 19.99 product). What kind of brush do you recommend that I use on the railings as well as the boards. I was going to purchase a good stain brush (but since you are water based, I’m not sure i need the typical stain brush) as well as a corner brush for tight angles, but figured I would check here first.
Any quality stain brush will work. Here is an example: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Brushes-Stain-Pads-Sprayers-and-Tools/Wooster-4-Pro-Stain-Brush/flypage.tpl.html
I used your deck cleaner, brightener and stain in 2018 on a brand new deck. It looked great, and I even entered the contest. This year I am prepping the exposed portion of the deck with all the spindles. I cleaned, brightened, but it looks awful. The transparent stain is peeling and it will not take any stain. Tell me what to do. I followed all your instructions. Last time it turned out nicely on a brand new deck . The deck is only 5 years old.
Strip and brighten to get it even. https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Kits-Best-Prices.html
1. How do you remove the restor-a-deck solid stain from vinyl siding?
2. How many coats should I put on using your solid stain? And how long before re applying the second coat if needed?
1. Paint stripper.
2. Two coats. Apply the second as soon as the first dries.
Thank you all very much for your quick responses and advice! Excellent company!!!
Is it ok to stain if the night time temperature will drop below 40? Daytime highs in the 69s.
Yes.
If the shipping address is Canada, at the checkout, the amount shown…is that USD or CAD?
USD.
I used the RAD system two years ago on newly installed Port Orford Cedar (porch deck) and it needs to be refreshed. I over bought and have plenty of cleaner, brightner, and stain to do this. Since it was new wood two years ago, I didn’t buy any stripper. Since it’s only had one coat of RAD before, do I need to do the stripping step as if the existing finish was another brand or unknown? Thanks.
No need to strip.
Did my order go through a few minutes ago? I have no confirmation. Thanks
There is not an order in your email or name.
couple of followup questions-
1) Do we need a sealer or RAD prevents further water damage?
2) Would you advise solid stain or semi-transperent?
3) How many gallons needed for a 450 sqft deck?
Thank you
1. You cannot use a sealer when you are using a deck stain.
2. Up to you.
3. 4-5 gallons.
Gazebo, 30 yr old Red Cedar, using oil based stain, stripped and brighten with Restore-a-deck (Used pressure washer)
We are hoping to start staining the spindles today since they are labor intensive. We have had cloudy weather with lows of 60s and highs 80s with humidity of 85%. They are reading 16-18% moisture level. It will be 48 hours at noon. Can we start at noon with this moisture level?
We have rain coming on Monday.
If we are unable to complete before rain, we will not be able to stain again until Thursday next week. Do we have to use the Brightner again before waiting 48 hours after rain?
Hello, we moved into this house and has an old deck which is not cared for very well. i dont think it has been stained for atleast 5 yrs. For now, i did a power wash and deep clean and able to get most of it back. but it still has some cracks and knots in the wood. Should i be using a sealer to prevent further damage? and then stain? … please help with what would be the best approach to prevent further damage and restore some life into the deck. thank you
You will need to redo the prep with the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kits. Stain after with the RAD Stains. You cannot apply a sealer prior to applying a deck stain.
Thank you for your quick response. Do we even need a sealer? or will RAD be enough to prevent further water damage?
Thank you
I was told by you a while back I had to RAD strip, brighten, buff, and use semi transparent stain on my 4 month old cedar deck which I cleaned with oxyclean, scrubbed with brush & used Thompson water sealer on. The deck had gray spots that the water sealer didn’t soak into and they looked like wood fuzzies. I’m doing the deck tomorrow and my question is what do I use to “buff” the wood fuzzies off after stripping?
Rent a floor buffer with sanding pads.
Is this tool compatible with your solid color stains?
No, not solid stains. You will need a brush and or roller.
Can solid stain be applied with an airless paint gun?
Yes.
I have a new deck 3 1/2 months old in IL. it is new pressure treated pine. 440 sq feet. we have a pressure washer. what should I buy to protect my deck.
Prep with the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kits. Stain with the Restore A Deck Stain in a semi-transparent color.
See here about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
My goal is to show off the wood color and grain on this 1 year old fence
– 1 Year old Cedar Fence with pressure treated posts: 150′ X 6′ (1 side only) = 900 Total square footage
– No stain currently
– I have a pressure washer
Thanks again!
John
Prep with the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kits. Stain with the Restore A Deck Stain in a semi-transparent color.
Thanks for your product. We are happy with the result. Here are photos of our 300 sq. ft. cambara mahogany deck, first built 10 years ago and modified in late Fall 2019 with new boards that are quite obvious. We had made the error of treating the older deck with a paraffin-based sealer. With a combination of hand and reciprocating floor sander, we did manage to remove the sealer. We used RAD cleaner, then brightener on one day, waited two days because of rain, then applied RAD. We did color tests on lumber scraps, but changed our mind upon application. We tried the light walnut stain on a section, but it was too orange for us, so we mixed light walnut with dark walnut 50-50%. We also have a small 2 year old deck at the back of the house in cedar with cambara steps, installed this week (no cedar was available because of the lumber shortage). We will treat and stain the deck today, and I will post a photo as a comment here. We will wait to treat the cambara till it ages, per your suggestions. I am posting the photos because the FAQ helped our decision-making a great deal.
I have a standard deck made out of pressure treated pine. The boards are weathered and I replaced the rotten boards with new boards last summer in addition to all the railings. I am using an 80 grit drum sander to bring some of the deck boards back to life and remove some of the cupping. The deck boards have been stripped of all paint. The deck rails are 1 summer old and are pressure treated wood. I have them one season to dry out so they would accept the stain better.
I purchased the Restore a Deck Comb / Cleaner and Brightener (didn’t need th stripper because there is no stain or paint as I previously removed that last summer. My question is about my aluminum balusters. As I understand it, I do the cleaner and the brighter and then put two applications of the stain down. Since this is a wet application, I know It’s okay for me to walk on the first coat, but not the second.
My question is about my aluminum balusters.
1. Since I do have aluminum balusters, do I use a brush to put those two coats on the rails?
2. If I’m not suppose to use a brush but use the wet application (same as the deck boards) does the stain wipe off the the black aluminum balusters if I spray them at the same time I do the deck boards?
3. If it is suggested to to paint the rails with a brush and not the spray, what happens if I accidentally get stain on the wood railings when I’m spraying? Is that going to be blotchy as they will undoubtedly get more stain on the bottoms as I’m spraying the deck boards during the wet application.
Any guidance or tips would be appreciated. Just don’t want to screw it up.
Since you sanded you only apply one coat.
1. Just one coat is needed for the vertical wood. Use a brush or stain pad.
2. If you get any stain on the aluminum it should be wiped off right away.
3. We would not spray here. Just use a stain pad or brush for all.
So since I have aluminum balusters, you are saying I should go ahead and just paint everything with a brush and stainpad AND NOT USE a spray on application?
I’m assuming I shouldn’t walk on that one and only coat until it dries then since a second coat isn’t needed?
Do not spray, just one coat. No need to walk on it if only doing the coat.
One more question: Since I only need one coat, I bought way too much stain. How long does your stain stay good for? Does it expire if I keep it indoor in a dry place?
Unopened and indoors, it will last 2-3 years
Okay – so I have one more question (and thank you in advance for replying so quickly).
Since I am going to brush on the stain instead of using the sprayer (because of my aluminum balusters)
Can I still apply the paint the same day I do the Cleaner and brightener or will I need to wait for the deck boards / railings to dry.
Dry or damp is okay: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
I believe I over applied the deck semi transparent stain because the surface is slightly tacky even after 48hrs. What is the best way to resolve this? Everything else looks great. Thanks!
Just let it dry, there is not a way to speed it up. Most likely it was over applied.
Don’t know what happened to the other 2 pics? Oh well my deck was pretty beat up so we are very happy with the results
Pictures that are above 3mb will not load.
This is cypress solid color stain. Looks great. Before and after pics up close. Literally used the the absolute last drop on the last board 2nd coat. ? I recommend this product.
Looks great!
Another question from a long -unstained deck. If a full cleaning, brightening and light sanding are done, does all oxidation have to be removed in order to accept the stain properly or will it mainly create color variation?
Thanks so much!
The cleaning will remove the oxidation.
Here are some pics
I am planning on using your system to prep and stain my 425 sq foot multi-color deck. The deck is about 18 years old, don’t know wood type. Last treated 3 years ago with Cabot semi-transparent. I hope to use the RAD Semi-Transparent on the deck and spindles and Solid white stain on the painted rails. My questions:
-How do I prep the white painted rails before applying the solid stain? Do I need to remove all of the white paint first? Is this even possible?
-I do have a pressure washer. Should I pressure wash first and then use the stripper? Or just use it after applying the stripper?
-There are some deep-ish trough areas where the wood splintered and came off. Is it possible to fill these first? If so, with what?
-How many gallons do you recommend for 425 sqf?
-Remove all the loose stain with power washing and stripping. You do not need to remove all, just what is loose
-Apply stripper and pressure wash off.
-Filler will not work on decks.
-About 4-5 gallons.
After applying RAD stripper and then brightener, I got the wood fuzzies or feathers. This is a common issue, I think. Tried to find previous posts about this. Can I just sand these then apply stain or should I clean and brighten again after sanding? Thank you.
Lightly clean if you power sand to remove any sand dust.
5 year old pressure treated pine, never stained deck. I used the cleaner and brightener. I was left with fuzzies all over the deck. What caused this? How do I resolve this? I believe I will have to allow to dry, then sand the entire deck. What grain sandpaper should I use in my random orbital sander? After sanding, do I need to use cleaner and brightener again or can i just sweep away dust and start staining?
When you leave wood unstained for many years the wood will heavily oxidize or the top layer will turn gray. When you clean you have to remove this oxidation and the longer you let the wood sit unstained, the deeper the oxidation. The results you are seeing are from the removal of the oxidation and cannot be avoided as it has to come off. It is not a result of the cleaner or the pressure washer but a result of having too much oxidation from the wood sitting for 2 years. At this point, you should sand or buff off the raised wood fibers. Final prep with a lightly cleaning to remove sand dust.
OK Thanks for the info. What do you mean by a light cleaning to remove sand dust? Should I just spray it with water or perhaps just wiping with a damp cloth? Also, is it OK to use Scotch Brite to buff off the fibers?
Use a deck cleaner and then lightly pressure wash off. Do not use Scotch Brite pads. You need a floor buffer and buffing pads.
I did everything as suggested, however, I didnt realize that since I sanded the wood, I would only need 1 coat of stain. I applied 2 coats of stain. What is the downside to this and is this going to create problems?
It is possible that if over applied it may not penetrate correctly and lead to issues with drying and or premature wearing since it cannot fully soak in and drying on top of the wood.
Darn, I wish I would have known that. I thought 1 coat was recommended only after a thorough power sanding or when using new wood. Since I only did a light sanding using 80 grit sandpaper with light duty palm sander. Just enough light sanding to remove the raised wood fibers I did the wet on wet application process. If I have issues with improper drying and premature wear over time, what will I need to do to remedy in the spring?
Strip and recoat if needed.
So to be clear. If I decide I need to recoat. What will I need to do. Use stripper, then brightener, then recoat with 1 coat only? Will I need to use additive with the stripper or will the stripper alone be enough to remove the 2 fresh coats of RAD transparent stain? Will I also need to sand again at any point in this process?
Strip and brighten for prep and most likely two coats applied wet on wet will be needed. You may need the booster and gel as well. We would not worry about it unless an issue.
Should deck board be replaced before or after the stripper is applied?
Before.
Additional pictures
I am requesting recommendations on cleaning product and type of stain best for deck. There are areas with stain that has maintained color and other areas where the stain has faded.
I am considering a darker stain.
Type of wood if known:
Approximate Age of Wood:12-15 years
If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based): TWP 100 series (purchased from restore a deck) semi transparent stain.
If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained: October 2015
Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.): Deck
Do you have access to a pressure washer: yes if necessary
Miscellaneous Info: Plan to complete deck project this fall.
*Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
Use the RAD Stripper and Brightener Kit for prep. Stain with a Darker color like Dark Walnut in the RAD Stains.
My deck is just about a year old and hasn’t been treated with anything. I just bought your kit that includes the 5 gallon stain, cleaner and brighter. Should I do a light sand?
Only if needed. After cleaning, prior to the brightener.
One additional question would be.
Since I’ll be waiting for my RAD cleaners and brighteners to be shipped, any reason why I can’t do a first cleaning and then some sanding work now and then apply RAD cleaners a couple of weeks later. Are they bad for bare wood? Thanks
No issues with this.
In Maryland we have a 30 year, 500 square foot deck that was cleaned but never re-stained years ago.
1.I prefer to do semi-transparent because of how it looks. Is that even possible with a deck of this age? I don’t mind color variation.
2. Since clearly we’re horrible with deck maintenance, I also care about ease of maintenance. For semi can you clean it an apply another coat in a few years or does it have to be stripped? (assuming we’d do it in a couple of years, not 10?)
The up close photo shows the deck with one power wash with a deck cleaner. The picture with the apple shows the deck in its uncleaned state.
Thanks!
1. Yes, you can use a semi-transparent.
2. Clean and recoat as needed.
RAD light walnut is very orange. I have an old deck, used RAD steps to clean and brighten. Very Orange, what are my options to re-stain?
Strip and brighten for prep then you can change color.
I saw in your FAQ that I should not hope to remove the dark stain I just applied to my brand new deck. It is awful looking. Looks thick, like a semi-solid even though it sells as a transparent. Would using your stripper with the booster at least remove some of the color? I can then wait six months. Now, it hurts my eyes every time I look at it. Do you recommend that I apply a clear stain after the stripper + booster + brightener if only to protect the wood (it is new) until I have better prospects to remove it completely in the spring? Thanks for any advice.
You will need to remove it 100% first before coating it with another product. You may have to power sand as well depending on the stain brand and type you used.
Thank you. Jus finished the removal. I will pass the sander once it dries for good measure. Your products rock!!
By the way, should I brighten or clean after the sanding?
thanks again,
Hi there,
A follow up question, please. It has been a week since stripping, and brightening and it has been raining buckets, so no sanding yet. It looks like I may be able to sand on Tuesday if the forecast gets it right. That will be 2 days of no rain and one and a half weeks after using the RAD products.
Should I brighten again after the sanding and wait another 2 days to stain (TWP)? Or can I sand, blow the deck clean and apply the stain? Since I screwed up once, I want to make sure I follow up all the steps to a great deck.
thanks very much!!
–Silvia
Just blow off debris and stain.
Thanks a lot!!
We had our front porch stained with Restore a Deck 2 years ago. Certain sections (stairs and landing) have worn/faded away and we would like to retouch them. We recently had our porch power washed (with water only). Can we just re-stain the worn portions with our leftover stain or do we have to do additional prep work. Trying to keep this as simple as possible. Thanks for your help.
You cannot just spot apply as it will not blend. Best to prep all with the RAD Cleaner and Brightener and then stain all.
When mixed how long does the wood brightener and stain stripper mixed with the thickening gel last? Asking as I want to know if I can restore my deck over a few days in sections or if I have to do it all at once. Thanks.
A couple of weeks or longer once mixed.
Can the RAD Cleaner be used with a scrub brush only? I’ll be prepping a small KDAT boardwalk that’s located on an island and would rather not have to lug a pressure washer to the site by boat.
Yes, scrub well and rinse well with water.
Here’s a better photo
So it’s been one year since I applied first coat on a new pressure treated deck
(waited six months to apply).
Here is the current condition. I would like to know if I sand again for the maintenance coat do I apply the one coat again or 2 coats? Pics below are 1 year apart..as you can see the wear and tear.
Do not sand. Clean and brighten for prep. Two light coats applied wet on wet.
Thank you so much! This was exactly one year ago! Any tips on how to stain the planter box? I built it last year and never stained it.
Prep the same way and use a stain pad or brush to apply.
Why don’t you recommend using a Chapin Clean and Seal sprayer for a semi-transparent stain application? It worked well for the stripper and brightener. (Correction of previous question)
You can use it to spray the RAD Semi-transparent but you will need to back brush it to ensure it applies evenly.