We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
I stripped, brightened and applied the semi transparent stain in early spring. It turned out fantastic, but the winters here in Ohio are rough on outdoor furniture and decks. If i understand correctly, i can apply the cleaner product, lightly pressure wash and apply a maintenance coat. Is that correct? When i apply the maintenance coat, do i do 2 coats wet on wet like i originally did in the spring?
Just one coat if you have a base coat.
I’ll be staining my 600 square foot redwood deck tomorrow with your natural color semi-transparent stain after cleaning and brightening it today with your Restore-A-Deck products. The stain container states “do not apply in direct sunlight or if the boards feel hot to the touch”. However, your website states “If applying the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain in full sun we suggest that you apply to a damp deck. Either 1-2 hours after prep or if the wood is already dry, lightly mist the deck with water prior to applying”. My other option is to wait for the deck to be in the shade and stain it while it’s dry, although, I may only have a 1.5-2 hour window to do that. I live on the California coast and the temperature is forecast to be anywhere from 65-75 degrees throughout the day. What is my best option in light of the fact that your website also states that “the stain will be much easier to apply to damp wood as it will help avoid “flash” drying of the stain in full sun”. Thank you and my apologies for the long-winded question!!!
Wet the deck down with water and apply about an hour later or when not soaking wet. It can be visibly damp.
Thank you for your prompt reply – take care and stay safe!!!
What is the best way to remove Thompson’s WaterSeal Stain and Sealer? It was applied earlier this season by someone else and the client does not like the color (plus walked on it while wet) and would like it to go back the natural wood color.
Picture of the stain on the deck?
It did not upload before, apologies.
To strip, use the RAD Stripper/Brightener Kits with both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Cleaner and brightener for the rest of the deck.
We have an Ipe deck at the house we bought last year. it appears that the previous owner just put red stain on it (most likely didn’t prep, or use appropriate stain for Ipe). I can see where our flip flops have pulled the stain right off. I would like to remove that, and just let the Ipe patina, and be natural. I have access to a pressure washer. I do not know the type of stain they used. The deck was built in 2011, and I do not know what type of stain they used, and I would guess they did it about 18 months ago.
For prep, use the RAD Stripper/Brightener Kits with both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Area: 240 sq ft.
Wood: Believe it’s pine
Approximate Age: Unknown (Probably <5 years)
Previous Product: Thompson’s WaterSeal (but do not know if it’s semi-transparent or solid)
Last Stained: Unknown
Wood to be Stained: Deck
Pressure Washer Access: Yes
I used the stripper and the brightener. As you can see, the floor looks pretty good, but there are some areas of concern. I have a brush, but I just used the pressure washer everywhere. There are areas of the deck floor and spindles that proved more difficult to strip and brighten.
Should I sand those areas? After sanding, do I need to strip and brighten, or just brighten, or nothing? I plan to use ReadySeal for my staining.
Thanks!
Sand off the spots and then brighten all wood again.
Yeehaw. Now that’s RAD.
I’m looking forward in the forecast. I hope to get my deck stained this weekend; there is rain in the forecast for Monday. What is the recommended best drying/curing time to plan out for when I need to get this finished if it will rain Monday (semi-transparent stain, two coats)
Thank you!
4-8 hours before rain is best.
i stained my deck in the summer i replaced railings with new wood didnt stain them at that time wanted to wait for the wood to dry out. I am ready to stain them if i clean the rails with the cleaner and brightener and it gets onto the already stained deck is that going to be an issue
Yes, you may harm the coating.
All pressure treated pine, south of Nashville, TN. We have a an upper deck that is about 14×16 and it’s 8 years old. I am sure it has never had a stain on it, I cleaned it once earlier this year. I would clean it again as well. We just added on a bigger part (some of the wood has been outside over a month, the last pieces just a week or so and are still drying out), 6 steps down to join the 2 decks. It’s about 26×10 plus turns a corner around the house for another 7×10 or so. Is the solid stain our best bet for these looking the same or should I clean/brighten first to see if the old part looks closer to the new? I’m thinking they will take the stain differently anyway even if both are clean. Thanks!
See here about the new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
As for blending, the solid stain would be best. Prep and stain in the Spring.
Is there any reason not to stain part of the old deck now (the support beams and outer frame, all parts below floor decking that are outward facing). It’s a big job, just trying to piece it up a little. For the new part, if we get a warm week in November would I be saving time not having to clean as deeply as when spring comes and there might be some green spots from winter (north side of house)?
Also, I already have some Behr all-in-one deck cleaner. It’s acidic, I believe. Spray on, scrub, spray off. I’m open to the RAD products but if I have one that will do fine already I’ll roll with it.
The Behr prep may have a reaction with the RAD stains. Easier to stain it all at once. But if you want to stain the frame, there would be no issues.
Sorry for the multi-post – I also meant to ask if you have a recommendation for protecting a deck with a smoker on it. I cook with real wood, average twice a week. The smoker will be on the deck. I have a grill pad that is decent at keeping hot coals off the wood and drips under control, but I still make a little mess. Have you come across any innovative ideas for putting under a smoker or maybe can RAD take a beating better than other stains for that type of thing?
Outside of using a pad or rug, there is not much else you can do.
Applied Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain on deck past spring. My dog has scratched away the stain in some areas where he jumps on deck and exits the patio door. How to I repair this?
Try to touch up the spots with more stain.
Just stained my deck using all of your products. I’m having trouble with the deck still feeling tacky after 48hrs. This was a new pine wood deck (weather for 4-5 months). I cleaned, brightened, then stained using the semi-transparent and your yellow bristled brush. I don’t believe I used too much because on our 500sqft deck I didn’t even use a complete 2.5 gallon. Is there a way to remedy this tackiness or should I just wait it out? Thank you.
It will cure on its own. Not a way to speed it up.
If I have leftover stain, would I be able to use it to stain something like an outdoor wood table or picnic bench?
Yes.
What is the normal speed for shipping within the US? (5 gal of stain and deck finishing products) I have a fairly tight window of time for getting this done once I finish sanding, so I want to make sure I have everything I need ready to go. Thank you.
Depends on where you live. Normally 2-5 business days.
shipping time
I have a question concerning the shelf life of the stain we purchased, we have 10 gallons of semi transparent still in jugs unopened, we would like to know what is the shelf life of this product? we have heard so diffrent times on Google..thanks
Our stain has a shelf life of about 3 years if unopened. Has to be stored where it cannot freeze.
What is the lowest temperature that you can apply RAD?
50.
URGENT!
I still want to strip and stain my deck but added a new section. I WAS going to just let it season for a year (winter is here in about 2-4 weeks) and then do the entire deck at once, but then a friend said he would definitely not let the deck sit that long because (other than the new part) the deck is already looking dry and we get a ton of snow in the NE.
Two questions:
1) Should I:
A) strip the entire deck, stain the entire deck
B) Strip the entire deck and stain only the seasoned part
C) Strip and stain only the old/seasoned portion?
2) Weather conditions below are not ideal and just barely on the boundary of their recommendations (45-90 degrees surface temperature, “do not apply when deaily low is below 45 degrees or when rain is expected within 12 hours”). Do you think I should:
A) Strip, brighten and stain on Saturday
B) Strip and brighten on Saturday, stain on Sunday at 9-10am as soon as it reaches 45?
TODAY: Raining
SAT: 55 HI, 40LOW 0% chance of rain, 50% humidity at 1pm increasing to 70% humidity over night
SUN: 60 HI, 46LOW 0% chance rain until 8pm, then increasing from 5% at 8pm, then increasing slowly until 47% at 11pm. Humidity starts at 70% early sunday morning, dropping to 50% and staying around 50% until early Monday morning
Do it all next Spring. Your friend is incorrect.
Thank you!
Hello, upon moving into our home I cleaned and stained our weathered deck (apx 6 years old) with Olympic Semi-transparent stain and it has failed within two years. First, would this be a good fit for RAD? Second, would I start with the cleaner or stripper before the brightener? Thanks!
Yes the RAD would work well. Strip and brighten for prep.
I live in the hot, dry desert of Northern Nevada. Applied RAD last fall, and the wood started showing through in several spots over the summer so I thought it needed to be restained. I thought all I’d need to do is apply the cleaner scrub it with a deck brush and then restain, but the cleaner and the deck brush took off most (about 80%) of the stain completely off the wood, but left a lot of patches of stain behind. After consulting with you guys, you recommended cleaning with a pressure washer to remove the rest of the stain, brightening and then re-staining. Would it be ideal to clean / brighten, say, Friday afternoon and then stain early Saturday morning before the sun heats the deck up? I just don’t want to have to deal with the whole “misting / damp deck” thing here in Nevada where everything dries so quickly so I’m hoping I can avoid all that by just staining early in the morning when the deck is cool and dry. Pic of my deck after the 1st round of cleaning attached.
Yes, that will work for you.
I have two decks Eugene OR. 1. new cedar installed last year, 2. very old VG WR cedar. I bought the kit with semi transparent stain. Last week I cleaned, brightened, rinsed very well. This morning it was overcast I stained deck #1 which went well and looks good. I then started on #2 which also went well until the sun came out. I did not moisten the deck as a. it was cool b. there was dew on the deck when I started and as the temperature only got up to 50 by the time I finished the second deck I did not think it would be necessary. Non-the-less flash drying definitely became a problem and all attempts to keep the stain moist failed. I now have a deck with shoe prints, uneven areas and even sticky stain build up in places. I still have some days before the weather turns too wet and cold to redo. How can I fix this? And would it be better to just wait until spring?
To fix you will need to strip and brighten. Much easier to do this in the Spring.
Question on stain type and timing of staining for our fence. We have access to pressure washer. Already planning on cleaner and brightener. New cedar fence, rough cut, installed late July of this year. Live in MN. Not yet stained. ~125ft of fencing, with 95% of it at 4.5ft high (5 panels at 6ft). 3 gates. 2 arbors. I notice you have Armstrong Clark stain on this site as well. We are trying to decide for our new wood in MN: Restore A Deck stain (cedar) or Armstrong Clark stain (semi-cedar) – essentially is water based or oil based better for us? And with oil vs water, temperatures are starting to drop here. Can we stain our fence yet this fall if temperatures are in the low 40’s? Thanks for your advice.
You can stain as long as the application temp when applying is 50 or more.
With either brand.
Thanks! And any difference or benefit for using either water or oil based for my fence – new, cedar, harsh winters? Trying to figure out the deciding factor to choose, order, and stain ASAP.
No benefit or difference.
How long does it take once order is completed to arrive in USA state of Georgia?
About 3-4 business days.
Just completed cleaning and staining deck using RAD cleaner and RAD Light Walnut stain. After staining and allowing to dry I noticed some areas that were lighter. Can I go over those areas again even if it has dried?
Sorry but no, once dried and cured another coat will not be able to soak in. More than likely this will even out after a week anyhow.
I used RAD cleaner / brightener on an exterior cedar wall that is 1 year aged without any treatment prior. Wood was smooth to start, but after treating and pressure washing it now is rough and has blemishes. Should I sand or is this normal?
You are fine to stain.
I recently ordered and received some of your stain. I thought I ordered black walnut, but as I look back at my order, it shows “natural”, which is what I received and have put on the top horizontal portion of my deck. It is lighter that what we were really looking for, thought it is still pretty.
My question is this…would I be able to put the darker stain over it now that there are two coats on?
Also….we are using the solid stain for the rest of the vertical…spindles, etc. We ran out of time this weekend, and got the first coat on. Will it hurt to wait a week or two to put the second coat on? Time is just not on our side.
Also…do you think it would look weird if we did the deck in a different semi-solid than the top of the rail that is done in natural now? Maybe not go as dark as black walnut? I just think the natural is a little orangy for the whole deck….it looks ok on the railing if I cant stain over it.
You cannot add another coating at this point as it will not take. You can switch to it down the road as needed after proper prep.
You are okay to add another coat of solid a week or so after but not with the semi-transparent.
The only way to do another coat where the natural is is to remove it fully first.
It is acceptable/recommended to apply semi transparent and solid stain to damp wood if I understand correctly. Is application to dry wood unacceptable?
While I have successfully used your product to stain both my house decks the past several years, my 30 year old garage deck was in rough shape. After power washing, cleaning and waiting until dry, I was only able to put on one thin coat before running out of stain as the boards are super dry and absorbed the stain rapidly. Since I still have 20% of the porch to do, and need to order more, is possible to also now recoat the 80% I have already done?
Sorry, but no. It will not take another coat once cured. You can do another coat in about 6 months. Lightly clean first.
I received your TWP 1500 5G with cleaner and brightener. Can I apply the TWP stain while wood is wet after applying brightener or need to let it dry?
Needs to be fully dry with TWP. 48 hours after prep.
I used RAD stripper/brightener and then stained with TWP 1500. I ran out of stain before completing second coat. I ordered another gallon, not sure how long it takes to get to MD. When it arrives can I just stain directly over the part that has only one coat even though it will be several days later? -Quinn
No, wait until spring, lightly clean and recoat then.
The bag with the stripper has a large hole it it. It is covered in dry product. What are the mixing instructions? How much product to make 1 gallon of stripper?.
8 oz per gallon.
And I forgot to ask how much stripper?
Hi, our deck is 22 yrs old. We had some boards replaced and had to wait until now to stain them
I am hoping to stain the second to last week of Oct as the temp is predicted to be 64degrees during the day and 42 at night for three days. We have approximately 860 sq ft of wood deck .We have an area around our pool that is composite approximately 464sq feet.
Can I use a transparent stain? How much cleaner should I order, how much brightner and how much stain?Thank you in advance.
Strip and brighten for prep. Two strippers and two brighteners. Then you can use the RAD Stain. About 8-10 gallons. It cannot be used for the composite wood.
thank you
How much time does it take to ship to Canada?
It depends on where in Canada?
I have a 2yr old treated pine deck, with a polycarbonate roof. We are going to be cleaning the deck with the RAD Cleaner and Brightener Question is, do we need to clean the rafters and stringers under roof? We like the color of the rafters after 2 yrs. and would like to keep them looking the same. We are using RAD clear semi transparent stain. Can I just rinse and stain the rafters? I’m worried the cleaner and brightener might affect the polycarbonate roof. We are located in northern Ohio.
If you are staining then yes, you need to prep. It will not harm the roof.
I have a 200 sq ft deck. Is 1 gal enough to cover this?
Probably not. 2 gallons.
If I use either the Restore a Deck SemiT or Solid to stain a deck will your stripper remove either of them when the time comes a few years down the road.
Semi-transparent, yes. You cannot strip off a solid stain fully.
I am going to use RAD stripper then brightener on the same day. The stain is the oil based TWP 1500. How long must I wait to apply the stain since it is not water based. -q
48 hours.
Hi Again
It is Dahi again. Just wanted to post couple more pics.
Hi,
Thank you for a great website. Please advice me. I want to peel off all old paint. I want to stain it with RAD. The old paint is Behr premium wood coating Deckover. I tried to peel off with stripper , I bought from Home Depot. It worked but not satisfied. It is Behr wood stain and finish stripper. I want to make the process quicker. So I can stain my deck before weather gets cold. I also saw wood decay or wood rot on couple of boards and top of the railing. so please let me know how to take care of it. Is it possible to peel of paint from railing ? Which stain would work better?I have posted few pics. Image 118 and 119 are showing wood decay or rot fungi. I am not sure what you call it.
Thank you for your help.
You cannot strip this so you will have to fully sand it all off. Once removed, you can use the RAD Solid stains. We would replace the rotting wood.
Do I have to use brightener or cleaner after sanding?? Also do I need primer or sealer before or after the stain ??
You do not prime or seal. Clean and brighten after sanding.
Can I unsubscribe from daily posts and comments but still get periodic tips and info?
I cleaned, brightened, then put on one coat of RAD solid stain on a pressure treated fence with half old boards and half new. Looks great but I’d like to put on a second coat. Due to weather, etc. it will be about 10-14 days till I can get to putting on the second coat. Is that ok?
Yes but sure the wood is clean.
For solid stain, is a roller or pad best for application on flat surfaces? Thank you.
Roller and brushes.
If we buy a 5 gallon kit, can I buy an additional 2.5 gallon jug?
We do not sell the 2.5-gallons individually on our site.
question regarding temperature. if staining at 53 degrees and dropping to 38 overnight
is humidity a concern? will be at 80% during the night. ok to stain or hold off?
It should be okay as long as you have 4-6 hours of drying during the day after done applying.
I had great intentions of completing the entire project this fall but it seems like this won’t happen. Will the Stripper, Brightener and Stain all be as productive if I don’t complete it until next spring?
As long as they are stored in a temperature-controlled room, you are okay.
Hello, love your forum thank you very much in advance for being responsive. I bought your semi-transparent sample kit and think I made a very stupid rookie mistake by brushing samples on one board of the deck vs a scrap. I think we will be going with the Cedar.
Deck boards were replaced in early April, pressure treated pine.
Do I sand off the other samples before staining the whole thing or will that leave it lighter than the rest of the deck?
Should I replace that board? I have scrap of the same lumber and think i can replace it without too much trouble. It has been under the deck so not nearly as weathered however since April as the board it would be replacing so not sure if that would make it look different too
Thank you!
Do not replace boards or sand as neither will blend. Strip off those stops and then clean the rest. Brighten all wood when done.
I’m going to do my deck this weekend with your product. I bought the cleaner and brightner. how should I approach the rails and balisters when it comes to cleaning them. Should I just spray with my pump sprayer and srub is balister? Seems like it like it might be a lot of work. Maybe I can just hit them with the power washer. The deck is only a year old
Pump spray on cleaner and then pressure wash off is the correct way. Brightener after. Just rinse Brightener well when done.
Additional photo.
I am working on a 4 year old deck that was solid stained with an olympic product that looked terrible and did not last very long. I suspect the deck was painted by the house flipper right after building it. I found the can of Olympic in the basement, bought a new can, and repainted the deck after cleaning with TSP and bleach. Same results.
I have been stripping the deck and sanding the deck, and it is looking better. I still see the old paint in the wood. I would like to use a semi-transparent not a solid. Is there any chance that if I purchase the RAD products,Stripper, Brightner, Cleaner, that I will be able to use the semi-transparent?
You should be okay to Strip and brighten. Use both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
No need for Cleaner.
In terms of temperature, what are the guidelines? How long after finishing is it allowed to go below 45 degrees?
Apply between 50-90 for the best results. It can drop below 50 the first night but should not drop below freezing.
Just finished spraying a portion of fence with Resto-A-Deck using a Graco spray unit with a 313 tip. Stain seemed to come out gun in a little too fine mist. Any recommendations on tip sizes to use?
Wider tip with low volume.