We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
Solid Stain only comes in 1 gallon size? That’s all I see available online.
1 Gallons only.
Will overspray from deck stripper harm powder coated above ground swimming pool walls?
It should not but always test first.
What other tools would you recommend for applying the dark walnut stain?
Stain pads and brushes are best for applying.https://www.restore-a-deck.com/decktools.html
We have 3 deck projects and would love help calculating supply needs and any tips you can offer.
Dorm Deck – 17’x13′, railings approx 3′ tallMain Deck – 54’x21′, we will not work on railings this yearWedding Deck – 36’x24′, we will not work on railings this year
Dorm Deck: Commonly used deck wood, 15 years old, never been stained or treated
Main Deck: Commonly used deck wood, 25 years old, cleaned, brightened and stained with Restore-a-Deck products in 2018.
Wedding Deck: Commonly used deck wood, 5 years old, cleaned, brightened and stained with Restore-a-Deck products in 2018.
We have a power washer.
When we worked in 2018 we had to get on our hands and knees with a stiff scrub brush to get as much of the mold out as possible. Can we avoid that this year?
I just noticed the Deck Stain Calculator. I’d still love help calculating all the supplies needed. We have a stain brush from you, and we have 3 pump sprayers.
Thank you!
Best to use the calculator for total as that takes in all the wood to be stained. Using a pressure washer while prepping is the easiest and fastest.
The reason we got on our hands and knees with a scrub brush is because the combination of stripper and brightener using a power washer didnt get it all. Is there a product that will help with stubborn mold?
Also, is this your final comment to my first question? If so why did you request the details of wood type, age, size and pictures
When you apply the stripper it will raise the pH balance of the wood internally, causing it to darken in color. You then use the brightener after to neutralize and restore the color. I am guessing that this internal darkening caused you to mistakenly think it is mold or mildew and you thought you had to scrub it out? No need to do this as the stripper will kill any mildew or mold.
One other question. What is the best way to keep mold under control?
You can try a product called Wet and Forget after staining.
have an enclosed porch ..solid 3 wall, one wall screen. floor is cedar decking…I would assume you would recommend the cedar be cleaned/brightened/stained no differently than outdoor decking. the cedar is about 9 mos since install. need to determine how much product to order from youthank you
Correct, see here for some new wood tips: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
is water based or oil base stain better for deck flooring
Use the RAD Stains for best results. They are water based.
I have an unopened 2.5 gal of semi transparent stain. How do I tell if it’s still good to use. Is there a expiration date. There is just a sticker with 19 04 17 on it.How many square feet would it cover.
It is good for about 3 years after you purchased it as long as it did not freeze. About 200-300 sq feet for two coats.
I already stained my decks once with RAD last year. It came out great! I’m ready to put on a second coat. What do I need? Great product! Thank you
Use the Deck Cleaner for prep and do a light wash. https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Cleaner-Only.html
Just want to confirm to just use the cleaner and no brightener for the second coat? Thank you
If the current stain is intact, then no need to brighten but you still can use it.
My deck measures 10×16 and consists of 50% solid stained pressure treated boards and 50% new pressure treated boards that were installed to replace rotten boards last summer. The new boards are interspersed with the old boards, almost every other board is new. Can I use the stripper and booster on both the new and old boards or do I need to use the cleaner on new boards and stripper on old boards?
You can use the Stripper on all, Brighten after, and then use the RAD Solid Stain to have it all blend. The stripper should not damage the vinyl or PVC, but test the aluminum to make sure there is not any reaction.
Gary, we already responded to you via email. Check your email or spam folder.
Looking for advice on what is recommended to stain our new deck for the first time. 400 sq/ft pressure treated pine built in Nov 2020. I do have a pressure washer if needed. I’ve attached one photo from November 2020 when the deck was built and one from today. Thanks.
Hello, see here about new wood as it should answer your questions: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Stripped and stained deck last summer using your system with semi transparent stain. Had new windows Installed and the contractors left some scratches on the deck. Can we use just the cleaner and then apply another coat of stain to help hide where the stain has been scratched off?
It will probably not blend unless you do a full prep and recoat.
I am hoping you can direct me to the best products to restore and prepare our deck for re-staining? We have 800 sq. ft., plus lattice, 1-6 step staircase and 1-3 step stair case and railing with black metal spindles. It was built with cedar, is approximately 7 years old along with the stain, we used Sikken. We also built out the deck last fall where we removed a pool so there is new cedar that has never been stained. We do have a pressure washer. I have attached pictures. I look forward to hearing from you.
For prep, use the Restore A Deck Stripper Kits:
Can you be more specific on which kits you recommend for our sq. footage? When I look at the choices there are several. Will 2 – 5 gallon containers of the Armstrong stain be enough to cover everything listed?
Yes, on the AC Stain. 2 of these kits:
Just Moved in to a home with IPE deck. What products do I need?
Prep with this kit: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/order-restore-a-deck/rad-kits-best-price/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/flypage.tpl.html
I see you do not have any redwood colored stains. Do they all look okay on redwood? Is there a preferred stain color for redwood? Thanks
Any of the colors will work on redwood. Preference as to which color would depend on how you want to tint it. Samples are always the best way to test for your wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-stain-samples.html
I just want to clean my already stained deck. Do I just use the the cleaner or do I need to use the brightener as well?
Our preop products are only designed for when you plan to reapply, not general cleaning of dirt.
can u explain how to just clean a deck when not prepping? how and what product to use. thanks
I have RAD solid stain on deck
Try warm water with a little bit of dish soap.
I’m about to order 1 gallon of the semi transparent deck stain but not clear if I’ll be charged freight. If so how much it will the freight will cost and when I can expect delivery as your order form doesn’t provide that information
Our Restore A Deck Stain ships free. Shipping time depends on where you live.
I’ve decided not to attempt to strip my solid stain and just sand it instead. How do I return the stripper and booster (order # 9NKV035721)? I will also need more of the RAD300 (cleaner and brightener) but I need to confirm how much more (I have one RAD300 now). The fence is 1,740 sq. ft (both sides). I only plan to clean and brighten the fence (assuming that this does the trick). The deck is 1,075 sq. ft and I plan to sand and re-stain with a new solid stain. How much cleaner and brightener would you recommend? Thanks
See here of returns: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Store-Policies/refund.html
Two years ago I refinished my deck using Restore-A-Deck cleaner, brightener and semi-transparent stain. Turned out well, but a year ago the finish started flaking off. Apparently I applied the stain too thick with a paint brush. I am now ready to try it again. This time I have your staining brush, your applicator pad or I have a pump sprayer. In order to achieve that thin uniform coat, which device would best give me the desired result? Thanking you in advance: – Lanny
The floor staining brush works best. Make sure to prep well first.
I have an unopened restore a deck semi transparent cedar stain with a sticker 19 04 17
The unopened stain is good for about 3 years if stored where it cannot freeze. The opened stain is 12 months. That is not a date, but a batch number.
So what does that batch number tell me19 04 17
It does not tell the customer anything. It is an internal # to track batches for quality control.
Hi, I need some advice. I have a cedar pergola that I used Armstrong Clark semi transparent oil based stain on 2 years ago. It it pretty faded, southern exposure, I want to re-stain a little lighter. Do I use stripper or just cleaner and prep? Also what would be best Armstrong Clark or TWP?
Strip and brighten for prep. Use TWP in Honeytone or Restore A Deck Stain in Natural. Same for the deck.
so Just to verify…..I have Armstrong rustic Brown that has faded from 2 years ago. I can strip and brighten for prep. Then use TWP or RAD products? Is TWP an oil base? If not is it really ok to use over Armstrong since I’m sure 100% of the old will not be removed. Also is honey tone or natural a shade or 2 lighter than rustic brown. Rustic is too dark once a second coat is applied even after a year between coats
Yes, that is correct. TWP is oil-based. You cannot apply TWP over the AC but the Stripper will remove the AC. Honeytone and Natural are very light colors. Like a wet look.
Ok I’m a little confused. I have old Oil based Armstrong, I can not use TWP oil base unless all the Armstrong is removed ? But I can not use RAD either because it is water based, correct? Should I just prep and use AC again? I’m not sure I loved the fading in the west exposure. Which is the best to use and I will go that route.
Whenever switching brands you have to remove the old coating first. Does not matter if it is oil or water-based. It is easy to switch, just use the RAD stripper instead of cleaner for prep and then Brightener. Same amount of work.
Ok understand. So option 1 is I clean and reapply Armstrong same as what is on there. Option 2 is to strip and stain with any of them. If I go this route which stain is best for my West exposure. AC, RAD or TWP?
We like the RAD best.
Last summer I sanded down my cedar deck to get all the former stain off. I then used the RAD cleaner, brightner, and cedar stain. Seems to have held up pretty well over the winter. I’m just wondering what steps I need to go through this spring. I’d like to apply another coat to even it all out from winter. Thank you in advance!
Just lightly clean with the RAD Cleaner and then recoat.
I have a 20 year old pressure treated wood deck that was last treated with Flood product about 5 years ago. Do I need to use the stripper,cleaner, brightener or just cleaner and brightened at this point before applying semitransparent stain. We live in Central Illinois. How long should I expect a treated deck with your product to last? Southern sun exposure. Thank you!
Strip and brighten with both additives to remove the Flood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
more photos
You have a very old white/gray solid to semi-solid stain on the deck now. Best is to strip it all off now using the Stripper and both additives. https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Thank you so much! It’s so hard to tell. I will be sure to take photos of the progress and post them here once I start.
All of my photos did not attach.
Hello,
We have a 1080 square foot deck. Don’t know the type of wood; the unstained underside has a reddish color to it. Approximate age: don’t know; bought the house 5 years ago and the deck was already there so at least 5 years. Previous stain: Behr Deck Plus solid color waterproofing wood stain. Last stained about 2 years ago. I will purchase a pressure washer for this project. I’ve included two pictures of the failing stain on the surface of the deck and one picture of the bare underside.
Should a mask or respirator be worn when using the RAD strip, clean and brighten products? If so, what type is recommended?
Only needed if the minor fumes are affecting you. Any low odor mask would work.
Half of my deck (the floor) is new wood, the other half is “old”. If I put 2 coats on the “old” part, it will be slightly darker in color than the new wood with one coat. I would like to 2-coat the entire deck so everything looks the same. I read in your literature to apply only one coat to new wood. If I apply a second coat to the new wood will there be a problem?
New and old wood will not match no matter how many coats are applied as the new wood will stain lighter. You cannot apply 2 coats to new wood as it will not fully soak into the wood. Just one coat.
We are planning to use the brown oak solid stain for our pressure treated wood deck and railings. We have only lived here 3.5 years, but the previous owners used a solid stain 4-5 years ago. I’m guessing the deck itself is 20+ years old, with various boards replaced over the years. Do we need to Strip and Brighten, or Clean and Brighten, prior to staining? Will it be beneficial to sand before or after prepping the deck….or is sanding not necessary?
Use the RAD Cleaner for prep (no need for brightener here) while pressure washing. Let dry and then spot sand as needed to remove any loose or peeling stain. You can then cover the rest with a new coating of the RAD Solid Stain.
We have a huge womanized deck, treated wood, 2165 s.f. It is around a 20 X 40 concrete swimming pool. For the last 20 years we have used Sikkens semi-transparent stain. We had numerous boards replaced last summer and would like to use a solid stain in a color so color is even throughout. It has been 3 years since it was last stained. It does take a beating from the sun, so we normally stained it every 3-4 years. Will RAD work on removing the Sikkens? This is a huge under taking and expense so we want to waste neither time nor money and prep it correctly. Please advise.
We would need to see pictures. You can post them here.
Can I use a Dusichin foamer with my pressure washer to apply cleaner and/or stripper?
No, you cannot.
We have a prior stained deck. We have Step 1 and 2 RAD. We plan to sand the deck. When would we do that? Before application of either step or at a different time?
You will have to sand off all of the old stain first and then use the RAD prep after.
I have more a maintenance question than restoration question. I have a approximately 10×5 portion of a deck that was older than my new wood portion (added onto the deck by previous owners so we don’t know they age). The wood is in good shape so when we did the restore a deck finishes with new wood we also did the same to that portion. Two years in and it has quite a bit of green settling on it from over head trees. What is the best way to clean this without having to refinish it completely?
You cannot just clean without re-coating. The prep products are designed for reapplication. You also cannot spot treat the worn path and then have it blend. You have to to a full prep and recoat and it is normal to have to do this every 2-3 years.
I would try the wet and forget first
Just ordered the cleaner/brightener kits, based on good past results. But just realized that this 2-year old deck, having been stained with Cabot australian timber oil, probably needs stripper rather than cleaner. Any chance I can get away with just cleaner and brightener? Haven’t selected a new stain yet, since the Cabot didn’t hold up very well. Thanks.
You will need to strip and brighten.
Thanks, just ordered the stripper. For future reference, it sounds like if I use one of your stain products, I will be able to just use cleaner rather than stripper?
Yes, correct.
Last question – need to strip and brighten the horizontal deck surface, which was stained 2 years ago. The railings are all “new” unstained PT, so they just need cleaner and brightener. Any issues with overspray and rinsing of the railings causing any discoloration or staining of the horizontal deck surface before stripping it? Thanks.
Strip the floors first, clean the rails last. Brighten all when done. See this as well about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
I stained my deck 2 years ago with your products. In prep of restaining the deck do I need to use the stripper or just the cleaner?
Cleaner.
I have a call in to your sales dept. Here are pictures.
I’ve got approximately 150 square feet of cedar singles on the front gables of my house. The wood is 13 years old and has the original stain from that time of installation. It is an oil based stain, Rodda Rural Manor semi-transparent. If possible, I would like to re-stain the shingles with a lighter and/or more transparent color. I assume the existing stain would have to be stripped and I’m wondering if your product would be a good solution for that. I could rent a pressure washer if required.
Use the stripper and the brightener kit with both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
what is the shelf life of your stain
Unopened about 3 years. Opened about 12 months. Cannot freeze.
Not below 50.
What’s the recommendation re: deicers? I.e. avoid putting any on a deck finished with your stain? I assume so but wanted to ask …
Deicers will not work with deck stains. They will break down the coating.
That’s what I thought. Thanks for the quick response.
I have 40 year old cedar siding on my house with I think 20 plus year old stain ( possibly semitransparent) We are replacing some siding with new cedar. Old stain has totally worn off in some places, but in other places stain remains. How can I get consistent color stain on all my wood ? Would going with a darker semitransparent or solid stain be better? Thank you.
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener kits with both additives for prep: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
I cleaned, brightened and stained using a solid RAD stain. My deck is now covered with about 3 inches of snow, probably will get more before this NH winter is over. I have noticed outlines of leaves on my deck that must have resulted from leaves being trapped during one of the snow storms. My question is come spring what is the best way to clean the traces of leaves from my deck? I would hope that I would not have to restain.
Typically watered down bleach removes leave stains but it may also lighten the solid deck stain. If you try it, do a test spot first. 1 part bleach to 5 parts water. BTW, never attempt this with the RAD Semi-transparent stain, only the solid.
How long will it last on a pressure treated fence
3-6 years.
Received RAD and now have a weather window. Want to get some feedback, tips due to wood type/condition.
1. No way to avoid it as it comes from the oxidation/graying removal but it really should not be a concern since it is rough sawn.
After stripping & brightening deck, I applied 1 coat of A/C semi-transparent Amber oil-based stain for hardwoods on my mahogany deck last July. 6 months later, the deck appears (looks) as though it has no stain on it whatsoever. When spring/summer arrives I hope to re-stain with something that retains color shade somewhat better. For the easiest solution, do you recommend using a A/C “semi-solid” oil-based stain to cover the visually “semi-transparent” failure, or something else? I’m not all that concerned now about highlighting the grain, but don’t want a totally solid-cover finish. Since I now have an oil-based stain, is oil-base the way to continue, or can a water-based semi-solid stain be applied successfully?
The AC semi-solid will not work on your wood type as it will not be able to soak in. The issue of fading is related to your Mahogany wood and the density of the wood and is why you need to recoat annually. Nothing will last longer. When recoating and switching brands or types of stain you will have to strip and brighten for prep.
Two Quick Questions. I stripped and stained my deck last fall with the products and was very pleased with the results. I had replaced some of the deck wood and only put one coat of Stain on the product per the recommendations. When I put another coat of stain on the new wood in the spring, do I need to prep it in any way?
You will need to clean the deck with the RAD Cleaner for prep. Shelf life is 3 years if unopened.
Overriding suggestion: keep your stripper moist & let it sit as long as you can.
My project details: Everything is 14 years old. Two Cedar garage doors, one L-shaped deck & one straight deck (all railings & post coverings are cedar, wood floors are Ipe) and front porch railings all cedar. In addition to the decks, I also have cedar railings between some of the decks. I had previously used Australian Timber Oil & used to be happy with results. Then the mfg changed composition and it didn’t work. Then I tried a Ben Moore semi-transparent stain (major disappointment). The before pics will show how bad, dull, ugly everything looked. Previously I tried a different brand of stripper and it did nothing.
Purchased three (3) full RAD stripper & brightener kits with the 2 additives (Thickening Gel & Booster). Used almost 100% of the purchased products. Applied product with backpack sprayer (1 for each stripper & brightener). In total, I spent about 28 hours applying and power washing the stripper and brightener. Obviously had to break into manageable pieces because holding a power washer for 5-8 hours straight is a PITA. Heads up – it’s a dirty job.
The end results are absolutely amazing. The stripper & brightener really brought the wood back to its original form.
The stripper & brightener work extremely well. However, and this is huge – you must keep the stripper moist the entire time before power washing. I found the longer I left the stripper on, the better it worked. As mentioned, the semi-transparent stain was pretty ugly, so I let stripper sit for anywhere from 1-2+ hours, but always keeping it very moist. The railings are time consuming when power washing each of the 4 sides, but the longer I let the stripper sit, while wet, the better it worked. I also applied the brightener immediately after I finished the stripper.
On a side note, I used the stripper & brightener on 2 horse stalls (white pine) that had not been cleaned for 22+ years. The bottom 6’ around the stalls were pretty disgusting. The RAD really worked well on the stalls. They look brand new.
Am attaching pics of our deck…second coat applied via wagner spray gun about 50 degrees out…stain pooled up in spots looks bad…please advise as how to correct!
No pics.
Hopefully pics come thru
You would have to remove the stain and start over using the RAD stripper and both additives. Brightener after: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
We have a walkway made out of Ash. It was sealed a year ago with an oil based sealer (Penofin), but it grayed out quickly. 2 questions: Do we need to sand prior to applying or is the stripper, brightner sufficient? Also, what color most closely matches the original color (photos)? Thank you.
Strip and Brighern for prep. No need to sand. Most use the Light Walnut color for hardwoods such as Ash but you could use the Natural if you want a lighter tint.