We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
We got some stain on our siding which we missed when cleaning up. It will not come off with soap and water. Any suggestions how to remove.
A graffiti remover cleaner from your local paint store.
I am refinishing grey weathered boat tables. Can’t tell if any stain or other finish is present. They are just a very weathered full on grey! Which prep product do you recommend prior to staining? There are plastic and metal parts on the table. If I can’t remove them can I just carefully tape them prior to prep work and staining. I have used your products many times and they work great!! Best regards, Kevin G.
Prep with the RAD Cleaner and then Brightener. It should not harm the parts.
I have an older deck probably 30 years old made from Douglas fur. The previous owners used behr deck over on the main decking which lasted one year before it started to peel. We have started the long process of trying to strip and sand it all off. We have been successful in most areas. However there are some spots that we can’t get of all the stain. Honestly I think what is left is mostly the product that was on the wood before they applied the behr deckover. We plan to stain it with Flood solid stain. My question are:1. for prep, should we use stripper and brightener OR the cleaner and brightener?2. How do you apply the RAD cleaner (or stripper) and brightener to the handrails and balusters? (These were only ever stained with a solid stain and now we have sanded them). Thanks for any tips and answers.
Use the stripper and the brightener. Apply with a pump sprayer and then pressure wash off.
Quick question, have a 1 yr old deck. used the RAD cleaned and about to apply the brightened and stain. After rinsing the cleaner with pressure washer, many areas have a fuzz remaining. Do I need to sand this or is there another way to remove? Do this before or after applying the brightener?
Thanks in advance.
You can sand if needed. Do it prior to brightener.
Hello, I am preparing to clean and stain a building that has three types of wood and has never been stained. There is cedar siding on three sides and a rough cut 1×6 wood facade on the other. We do uotknow act type of wood the rough cut facade is, but it appears to be a soft wood. There are so two decks. Will Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain work well on all of these surfaces? Also, would prep generally be the same for all surfaces? (We have already ordered samples for testing and looking at colors.) Thanks for your input.
Yes, the stain will work well on all surfaces. Prep would be the same.
Two years ago we replaced our deck floor with Cedar. After cleaning/brightening in the fall (after the new deck had weathered for 3 months) I applied the Cedar stain using a pad when the deck was dry. Gotta say, the results were passable, but not great.
Yesterday I cleaned the deck with the Restore-A-Deck cleaner and before I went to bed I hosed down the deck. Got up this morning and the deck was just slightly damp. Applied the Cedar stain with the Restore-A-Deck staining brush and it went on like a dream and it looks great! I highly recommend applying stain to damp wood and the staining brush is a must!!
Pictures?
Here are some pics of the finished deck floor.
I just cleaned and brightened my deck. I do not have time to stain today. When I do stain next week using RAD stain should I spray my deck down prior to staining. And then wait 2-4 hrs for the deck to be damp when I stain?
Yes, you can do this. See here for more tips: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
Thank you! I’ll send pics when I’m done!
So I’m about to stain my deck after I have stripped, sanded, cleaned, and brightened. My question is the application of staining while the wood is damp. I have always waited for the wood to dry using oil based. I’m using RAD light walnut this time.Why is it better to stain while the wood is damp as opposed to it being dry? I’m having a hard time getting that concept.
You can apply to damp or dry wood but it is easier to apply to damp. It spreads better and does not dry out quickly if in the hot sun. See these articles for more info:https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-hot-sun-application.html
Bought 5 gallons of semi-transparent stain with a RESTORE A DECK WOOD DSTAINING BRUSH. I can’t really find a video for this brushes use. Most are either hand brush, roller, or pad to apply the stain. Did I buy this for nothing? Should I apply using something different?
It is very easy to use the floor brush. Just dip into the stain and apply evenly, making sure the stain soaks into the wood.
From a user who just finished his 800sf deck with the brush and one who has used pads and rollers in the past, the brush is far and away better. As RAD reply states, dip, apply, and be pleased with the ease of application.
Used the cleaner and brightener last Wednesday. Haven’t had the chance to stain yet due to rain every day. Yesterday, this black spot started to show up on the wood. Any idea what it is?
Looks like rust in the wood. Something metal sitting there? Brightener should help to remove it.
Hey last summer I refinished our 10 yr old desk, I stripped and power washed, sanded, then cleaned and stained…it looked better than new
A year later it faded, but their is a drip line from the rook that went to bare wood..
What should I do this summer, I dont want to get it two toned raw to old stained if I re-stain it ..
I am not sanding again for 5 years BURNT OUT..
Do I clean and stain…
Maine winters are tough on deck
PIX
Is that IPE or Mohonay wood? Hardwood decking will quire annual reapplication. Since you have that drip line going from the roof, it would probably be best to strip and brighten for another coat to ensure it is applied evenly.
yes its a hardwood…so strip…clean….stain ?
Strip, brighten, then stain. No cleaner is needed.
I have several 2.5 year old redwood decks and A LOT of horizontal redwood railing that has not been treated or stained previously. I have read through your website forums over several days, and I’m still nervous.
Topic 1:Where to start? I think I should do the railings first, while protecting the decking. Then tackle the deck while protecting the railings. I believe the steps would be: clean, sand with 60 grit, brighten, then one coat of natural semi-transparent for UV protection because I sanded. Is that right?
Topic 2:One deck has Torrey Pine sap -ughhhh… I think I’m supposed to gently scrape and clean with Murphy’s Oil Soap before I do my RAD cleaning. How does that sound?
Thanks so much!!
1. Clean and brighen all wood. Only light sand if needed to remove splinters, etc. You can do this between the steps. When staining, do the rails first and then the floors. If you are moving slow (which is okay), then tarp the floors from drips while doing the rails.2. Sap is a pain to remove but yes, this typically does work.
I have a new deck, which I let weather for one year. Now ready to use RAD cleaner, brightener and semi-transparent stain. Next year do I just apply the stain only or do I complete the entire process again?
You always have to prep when reapplying.
I have a two part question. First is for our deck and second is for our fence. I have included a lot of pictures to help you determine what is best.
1. Our deck is made of Bangkirai wood. I’m not sure on the exact age but it is at least 10 years old. The majority of the deck is covered with an aluminum type of roof and that part of the stain is still in great condition as it does not get sun or other weather. The portions that do get the sun and weather are in need of re-staining. I believe the previous owners used a Sikkens Proluxe Cetol SRD stain (not 100% sure) and topped that with some kind of clearcoat (see railing picture for good visual of the clearcoat peeling) as it is very shiny and slippery when wet. There is no way for me to try and preserve the good area and only prep and stain the weathered areas so I will be doing the whole deck. It is kind of an odd shape as you can see by the picture (please ignore the renovating mess!). It’s approximately 288 sq ft using your calculator. Will your stripper strip what is on this Bangkirai deck? I’m thinking if it will that I will purchase the boosters as well just to be sure. I hope it will because I do not want to use a belt sander on this deck! Will the brightener work on Bangkirai?
2. Our fence is made of cedar. Again, not sure on the exact age but it is at least 10 years old. I am guessing that it has a semi translucent stain on it. I have sanded the majority of it already but the lattice areas (not sure if they are cedar as well) have staples that just eat up the sand paper so I was hoping to use stripper on them. It also has pergola type toppers along it that I have sanded the tops and flat fronts of but was hoping to use stripper on the rest of them as well otherwise I will have to dismantle them and sand them individually which will be painful! The fence is 30’x7′ or approximately 210 sq ft plus the pergola toppers. I will only be doing the one side as the other side has large lilac’s. Will your stripper work on the lattice and pergola’s? What can I do to protect the lilac’s when using the stripper as it will be hard to tarp them.
Thank you so much!
1. No, it is not possible to strip this. It will have to be power sanded. Clean and brighten after for final prep.2. This looks like a solid stain or semi-solid stain. Will not be an easy strip and probably will not come off completely when stripping. You would need both additives. If you cannot get it all off, then you will need the RAD Solid Stain to cover it.
We have a 15 year-old 300 square foot deck that has never been stained or painted. The wood is pressure treated pine, and I’ve ordered the suite of Restore-a-Deck products so I can restore the deck over the upcoming 4th of July weekend.
Those of us who walk barefooted occasionally get splinters from the deck, so I’m planning to use a palm sander with 60 grit sandpaper on most of the deck.
When in the refinishing process should I do the sanding? First thing, before using any of the Restore-a-Deck products? Or someplace else in the process?
Thanks!
If you sand, do this after the cleaning and then brightener last.
I applied the Armstrong Clarke Natural Oak stain today (6/24/2021). The weather forecast is for temperatures over 100 degrees the next few days. Will the high temperatures shorten the drying time for heavy use? About 400 square feet of my deck is fully exposed to the sun and another 400 square feet is under a roof.
No, not really. The under roof will take a little longer.
We are currently having a brand new cedar deck installed in the Pacific Northwest. Can the crew stain the deck right away? If they stain it right away, what are the issues? Is it a huge deal if they stain it right away? Also the deck will be 25’x15’. How much stain will we need to buy and how fast can we get it?
No they cannot. See here about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
It will stain unevenly and fail quicker if they do not follow new wood directions.
The previous stain on my deck steps is peeling. After cleaning and brightening, there is even more peeling. Can I apply a solid stain without stripping the old finish?
You can cover the intact stain with the RAD Solid Stains but you have to remove any stain that is peeling.
Can I just sand off the areas that are peeling and if so, do I need to apply brightener after sanding?
Yes, use 60 grit. No need to brighten this after in your scenario.
We have a second floor wooden porch. Will the cleaner and brightener cause issues for the downstairs porch? Will we need to try and cover everything and redirect the rinsewater?
What is the porch of made below?
floor is composite decking, rails are plastic, posts are wrapped in MDF of something similar.
They will not harm the composite or plastic but make sure to rinse well when done to remove soap, grime, etc.
I also have a few small holes to fill. Would it be best to do that before or after the cleaner/brightener?
Wood fillers will not work on outside wood and they will not stain to blend.
We have a 27-year-old deck that had been stained with semi-transparent stain about every two to three years. Last Tuesday (June 15th) I used the stripper along with the two additives and the brightener and removed most of the darker red stain. On Monday (June 21st), I completed sanding the deck (it looks great!)and was ready to apply your light walnut stain on Tuesday (June 22nd) until I learned we were getting rain on Tuesday night/Wednesday morning. The weather forecast shows periodic rain for the next 7 days. How long can the sanded wood remain unstained and how long of a drying window do I need for the stain to dry?
Stain within 2 weeks of the prep. No rain for 4-8 hours after applying.
I have a deck that was built in 2012. I think it was stained and a poly applied back then however I don’t know that for certain. Only looking at it to assuming.
Please advise what I should use to get those boards to where I can apply a stain that looks similar to the 3 replacement boards in the last picture.
Thank you!
Yes, it is thick like a poly so it will be a difficult strip and will probably not come off completely. Strip with both additives and the stripper: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Let the mixed product dwell for 45 minutes (mist to keep from drying out if needed) and then pressure wash off. If it does not come off fully, then let dry and sand off the rest. Brightener would be last.
Should I be concerned about the surrounding bushes (Spirea)? Should they be covered during the application of the stripper, additives, rinsing it off or the brightener?
Cover them from over-spray when applying and washing and then remove the tarps as soon as you are done.
For both the stripper process as well as for the brightener process?
Correct.
Do you match stains
No, we do not.
Referring to Pete’s deck, he would then use stripper, cleaner and then brightener to prepare for re-staining?
Strip and then brighten. No need for the cleaner.
I’m planning to use your solid white stain for the posts and railings of a brand-new deck, to match the trim of the house. The new deck floor has just been stained. Do I need to tape off every individual metal bannister, or will I be able to wipe them clean after applying ?
You cannot wipe clean a solid stain from the metal spindles to remove, tarp, or paint around them.
He would have to remove and start over if desired.
I finished with the RAD stripper and brightener and 2 coats of RAD semi-transparent wood stain yesterday afternoon. When I finished up, I spilled stain on the deck steps. I did try to wipe up the spilled stain at the time of the spill.
The deck looks great today. But, after 24 hours of drying, the steps are sticky.
Will the sticky steps stay that way, or wear away after a while? Or is there something I can do to minimize the stickiness?
Thanks.
Sticky means it was over applied. It should cure out and it has only been 24 hours. Give it more time.
Yesterday I used the RAD Stripper and Brightener to remove Penofin Red Label Clear Rosewood Oil. The cedar deck is approximately 5 years old. Prior to installing the Penofin, we sanded the deck down and oiled. The Penofin looked terrible after 3 weeks. I believe local wildfire smoke caused the oil to take in the ash. Anyway, after the stripping, there are some areas where fuzzies showed up. I was thinking of just taking a pole sander with 80 grit to these areas. Once done, I plan to stain with RAD cedar. Before I do that, I wanted your recommendation.
Yes, you can do this.
I applied restore a deck solid stain on my prepped and dry cedar 24 hours ago. Now some parts of the deck have little droplets of moisture sweating on to of the stain. Is this a problem? There has been no rain and about 88 degree sunny weather
It should not be an issue.
* Type of wood if known: Mahogany
* Approximate Age of Wood:13 years
* If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type: Australian Timber Oil 19459 and/or 19430 (I think it is water-based semi-transparent).
* If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained: Approx. 12/2019.
* Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):Deck
* Do you have access to a pressure washer: that’s my question – will a 1800 psi electric cold water PW be sufficient?
* Miscellaneous Info: The deck looked beautiful when we bought the place one year ago, now looks bad (see photos).
Questions: 1 – I plan to use RAD stripper and brightener. I would prefer to buy an 1800 PSI electric cold water pressure washer for $100 than rent a more powerful machine for $42 a day, but would the 1800 PSI machine be able be able to remove the stripper?2 – The job is 660 sq ft of deck plus 185 sq ft for the covered porch. If we split the main deck into two days, would it be impossible to match the two halves? Any suggestions for breaking up the project, or is 660 feasible in one day?
No, the electric pressure washers are not adequate. It is not about the PSI, but the GPM or gallons per minute. Use the RAD Stripper with both additives for this one. We would not split this staining in half. Do it all in one day.
Thanks for the explanation. So I plan to do the whole 537 sq ft deck in one day, as you suggest. But the steps will need different prep to protect the white verticals, so it might be a second day before I can do them. Steps are about 125 sq ft. How much of the additives do I need in total? If I do the steps another day, do I need to reserve a portion of the additives and mix them on that day? Also, should 5 gallons of stain cover the 537 + 125 = 660 sq ft?
One of each additive for the Stripper. You can mix all at once and use as needed. It will be close with the stain amount. you may need more.
If I need more, I’d like to buy one of the 2.5 gallon and keep the excess for next year. Do you sell 2.5 gallons or is 1 gallon the only choice?
We sell only 1 gallons and the 5 gallons. We do not sell the 2.5-gallons.
What can I do to improve the brush marks/uneven application look of the semi-transparent stain I just applied? I used a pad to apply but it’s hard to apply the same amount of stain everywhere. Short of a total redo, can I 1)feather in around the worst areas with more stain, or 2) sand off heavier stained areas?
It is not possible to spot fix and feather it in. It would end up looking much worse.
I am getting ready to install a pine pressure treated picket fence. I also have a deck that is a couple of years old that has never been stained or sealed. What products should I use for these?
Prep with the RAD Cleaner/Brightener kits and stain with the RAD Stain in a semi-transparent color.
I couldn’t do the second coat today. should I wet the first one with water tomorrow afternoon to do the second coat. What do you suggest. I am restoring and old (20-30?? y/o) deck. It turns out I am using the transparent Cedar stain. I had ordered Natural and didn’t notice until I had done a few boards and thought it was darker due to being wet. then I looked at the label! I think the darker cedar may be better for the old deck. Will doing the second coat tomorrow be okay? Thank you
You cannot do the second coat once the first coat dries. The second coat has to be applied wet on wet. You can do another coat in 6-12 months (or longer) and you will have to clean again for prep.
Thank you for the quick response. And thank you for having this service. It is great!!
I apologize if this has been asked already.
I have the stripper and both additives. How long is the stripper and additives good for after being mixed together. I have to work with Mother Nature and lack of any shade on the deck. I’m considering breaking the task up to accomplish that.
Thank you!
A few weeks, maybe longer.
I have had two occasions where stripper and both additives were mixed and held in a backpack sprayer for over a month………when finally used the sprayer had to be shaken for several minutes but when applied and pressure washed the mix worked as well as if it had been mixed same day. Obviously, the sprayer/mix was stored away from temp extremes……about 65 degrees.
Hi. I just finished stripping sanding, cleaning, and brightening my deck. It is 12 years old and covered. I just put light walnut down today. I had planned on doing two coats but the stain said one coat if it has been sanded. The wood sucked the stain in, you can see in the pics. Question: Can I put a second coat down or should I wait till next year. And if I can put a second coat down is it ok if it’s not wet on wet?Thank you,Jim
You cannot do another coat once the first coat has fully cured. Wait until Spring or late Fall. Lightly clean and apply another coat then.
Ok thanks! If I do it late fall do I need to use the cleaner and brightner again?
Yes, you always have to prep when reapplying.
Gotcha, Last question. Can I apply two coats wet on wet if I had sanded the deck?
Only one coat if you sand.
In the fall when I clean and reapply the stain should I do two coats or one? And really in general whenever I do clean a stained deck is it one or two applications.
Typically, one coat.
In reapplying wet on wet it says 20-40 after the first coat. It took me about 1 1/2 hours to stain. Do I finish staining and then reapply? I remember seeing this question before I forgot what you recommended.
No, you would need to break it up if it is taking that long to apply the first coat.
I had an old thick coating on my pressure treated deck, most peeled off but some required a floor sander. I gave the entire deck a light sand and other areas required aggressive sanding. I used stripper and neutralizer after. Can I stain with RAD solid or should I wait some time period?
You can use the solid stain now.
I am going to sand and brighten and I understand that stain should be applied within 14 days of this prep. What would I need to do if it goes longer than 14 days (weather issues mainly)?
Redo the prep of cleaning and brightening.
Hello,
I plan to purchase your Coastal Gray solid stain, and I also want to use an anti-skid additive such as Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield. Will the traction granules affect the stain’s durability or require any modification to the stain’s application instructions?
I was thinking I would add the anti-skid stuff only to the first coat, then apply the standard second coat.
Thank you.
It should be fine but you may want to apply it in the second coat, it will be easier.
we have a wood treated deck 15 years , we used Bear stain lasted 2 years . i want to redo the deck . i live in southern alberta canada . what can i use ?
You will have to remove the Behr first. For help with this, post some pictures.
Hi, I have a 20 year old farmer’s porch-deck is mahogany as well as stairs and railings. What do you suggest for stain color?
Light Walnut. Make sure to prep well first. Post pictures if you need help with this.
Hi. I just received your deck cleaner and brightener and am excited to use it. Is there a problem if I do the cleaner/brightener and then wait a week to stain (re-stain using the same previous stain). There is a small chance of rain in the forecast next week. And always the chance of dust/pollen accumulating on the deck. Thank you
Best to stain within 14 days of prep. Make sure to blow off any debris if needed with a leaf blower.
I have 9 month old new p/t deck and now looking to stain it. we prefer the natural semi transparent. given there is no pigment in the natural colour stain, and to prevent it from silvering, will i need to reapply a 2nd/3rd coat of natural stain quicker than a 2nd/3rd coat of the light walnut semi transparent stain for example?
Ther is pigment in the Natural color and you must have pigment for UV protection from graying. Longevity is the same.
What was the suggestion regarding filling in cracks in the deck wood? It was in one of the videos. Thanks
Not to do it. It does not work well and does not blend.
I am staining with classic white solid and have done 2 coats on the handrails. Some rails are having a brown stain and drying that way. Some are fine. Any reason you know of? I did the first coat early in the morning when the sun comes up but behind our house. And the 2nd coat in the evening after the sun dies down. Thank for any info
That is tannin bleed coming from the wood. Tannin bleed is a tan or brownish discoloration on the paint surface. Tannins exist in all deck woods, most notably pine, cedar, and redwood, and can bleed through to the surface, leaving a yellowish-brown stain on the surface. Tannin bleed is an underlying wood problem, not a stain failure, and happens when in a very wet climate. Tannic acid can discolor the stain as the wet wood pushes the stains out towards the surface.
We would suggest letting the wood dry out for a few weeks or month and then touch up over those spots.
Okay thanks. That makes sense, the last morning it was misty. I may have to wait for it to be dry.
Hi!Location: Midwest (IL)Deck wood is either cedar or pine, not sureDeck is 16+ years oldDeck gets a bit of sun on one panel but the rest gets mostly shade. Mildew grows to the point that the deck gets slippery.
Deck has been power washed.
Please recommend what products to use to finish the prep of this deck.
I will be applying TWP 1503 once the deck is properly prepped.
Thank you for the guidance. Sarah
For prep, use the RAD Stripper with both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
RAD Brightener after to neutralize and restore color.
We installed a cedar fence with pressure treated pine posts last summer (maybe July). It has begun to fade some and I want to keep the natural color of the cedar (I like both your natural and cedar colored stain). Do I need to clean and brighten at this point or could I get away with just cleaning and then staining? Also, how much would I need for the fence? There is approximately 166 square feet of panels (front and back included) + the posts.
Yes, you do have to prep with the products. It will be an easy prep.
We would need a total sq footage. Length x Height x 2 =?
For 15 yr old Ipe. Never treated, PACNW Saltwater. Lt Walnut recommended but Cedar had less “yellow” tint. Would Cedar be acceptable? Semi-Transparent or Solid Stain? Second picture, Rained shortly after test stain. originally looked like areas where stain did not soak in but looks ok now. Any concerns?
Yes, you can use the Cedar color.
I need to strip stained shingle siding and pine soffits. Will stripper damage my stained/colored cement sidewalk and colored rock siding that lies below the treated areas?
No, it should not but do rinse well when you are done.
I want to apply semi transparent stain to my deck wet on wet application, 2 coats, after using the brightener. How would I determine “damp” surface? I could see the wood being soaked with water from the thorough rinsing after the brightener. Can I allow the deck to dry and come back next day and rewet to do the staining wet on wet application coats?
See this for tips. You want the wood damp, not soaking wet.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
Can SICO translucent stain be removed without sanding the deck
Please post a picture here in the comment area of the deck.
A couple years ago, we had a deck built and used Restore A Deck. It worked perfectly so we decided to use it again for the follow up coat after year one. This was last August (2020). It appeared to go down just fine and looked great until winter. Once the snow thawed in March of this year (2021) we started seeing a lot of places where the floor stain was peeling and flaking off. Based on researching the problem, our conclusion was that we might have applied the stain too thick on the horizontal surfaces. Vertical surfaces still seem ok. The original application on the floor was done with brushes but the latest job was done with a roller.
Now we have power washed the horizontal surfaces to remove nearly all the old stain. We are going to do another attempt at staining but don’t know if we need to do the cleaner/brightener steps again. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Can you post pictures of the floor and do not use a roller when applying the RAD Semi-Transparent stain. it does not apply it correctly.
First image is the floor after power washing. Second is the corner that was power washed, but also shows the vertical surface. Last image is the railing.
Best to strip and brighten the floor so you do not repeat the issue.