We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
we are having someone redo our deck at our small cabin and he has used the stripper on the steps but says it has only come 90% off. Can he sand the remainder of what will not come off before doing the brightener step? I don’t have pics since we are not there…
Yes. Sand remaining and then brightener.
Sorry one last question – I was planning on using your cleaner (I used it last year but did not follow with the brightener), brightening, and san ding. What order should I do them in?
If sanding, do the cleaner first, sand no finer than 60-80 grit, and brighten after.
How long can you wait between each stage and from brightening to staining?
You clean and brighten on the same day. Stain same day or within 2 weeks.
Do I sand then use the brightener or brightener first?
If you sand, do that first and then brighten after.
Sand or buff the wood to remove the fuzzies and then use the Brightener after.
I purchased a 1-2-3 kit. Have yet to use the stain. stain that was recommended was clear. The old homeowner used penofin IPE wood stain. The new stain won’t match.
Wondering if I can return the stain?
FYI, a clear offers no UV protection. You can return per our policy: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-100-series
My Deck IPE.
I called someone recommended semi transparent stain. But I need it to protect. If I return this stain what other stain do you recommend? Should I go with the Armstrong ?
Not sure what you mean? The RAD semi-transparent stain does protect the wood.
Just finished one coat of Restore A deck SOLID STAIN and I ran out – have to order more have to wait about 7 days will that be ok— I’m going to just rinse or blow off any dust?
Yes, just make sure the wood is clean and free of dirt and debris.
I have stripped and sanded my 30 year old deck which was previously treated with Arborcoat. There still remains traces of previous stain (pictures attached). Do you think this will be OK after cleaning and brightening or do I need to sand even deeper in order for the semitransparent stain to be able to penatrate adequately?
We would give it one more pass with the stripper and pressure washing. Brightener last.
Hi! I recently moved into a house with a very old deck. No idea what the wood or prior stain was. I stripped, brightened, and stained it with the “Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain and Stripper/Brightener Combo Kit” and the “RAD Stripper Booster.” Did it all according to instructions.
All of this was done over a couple weeks in November before it got too cold here just outside Washington DC. It looks great! Honestly saved the deck. Well… most of it anyways.
In April of this year I decided some boards had taken too much of a beating . I replaced them and some of the trim while I was at it.
What is a good schedule and method to get the color of new boards to tie-in to the rest of the deck?
Sorry but you cannot get new wood to match older wood with a semi-transparent stain. No matter what, the new wood will stain lighter as it is less absorbent. FYI, you cannot stain new wood right away. See this for tips: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
I’m hoping you can give me some feedback about what to do with our deck. We plan to clean, brighten and stain a ‘new’ (2 year old) deck, but there is another part of the deck (mostly covered, faces west) that is older and we aren’t sure if it was stained before. Suggestions? Thanks!
Hi,
For prep on the stained deck, you should use the Stripper and Brightener kit: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/order-restore-a-deck/rad-kits-best-price/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/flypage.tpl.html
And then stain with the RAD Stain: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-5-gallon/flypage.tpl.html
I have a High Volume, Low Pressure (HVLP) paint sprayer — can I use this to apply stain?
Yes, you can.
The directions on the RAD Semi-Transparent Light Walnut Deck Stain that I have purchased say “Mix Well: Stir well and periodically during use.” The stain is in a jug. Can I just shake it?
Yes, shaking works the best.
what is the recommended technique to apply the stripper & brightener to deck ballasts? I’ve seen pump sprayer is best, which makes sense for deck floor and support structures. But concerned about waste/overspray with a pump on the rails.
Spraying the railings is the correct way.
I need to use some wood filler on a couple deck boards, Do I prep first then patch, or patch then prep for staining
Thanks
Wood filler will not work for exterior decking and will not “stain” to blend with an exterior semi-transparent stain. We do not advise using it.
I used wood filler on two boards. Then stained with the solid stain. It lasted well but now after three years it is showing. But since I still have to stain my deck anyway, I will cover it over again. Good luck.
A solid stain will cover wood filler. Semi transparent stains will not and will not blend.
Sorry, but our products will not work to remove this or cover this. You have no choice but to scrape or sand off this failed coating of Rust_oleum Deck Revive.
How long after using your restore a deck SOLID stain can it rain on it without harming it?
4-8 hours.
Hi. I live in Minnesota. 2.5 years ago, after considerable research and after having my cedar deck professionally sanded, I stained with RAD Solid. It turned out very nice. Now I would like to re-coat without stripping or sanding. Most of it is in decent shape except for approximately 1/5 to 1/4 that never gets sun. Some of those boards are darkened (I’m assuming with mold due to the conditions). There are also a few areas that are peeling a bit (which I intend to sand first).
If I hadn’t read all the cautionary tales, I would’ve scrubbed the dark areas with vinegar and water or bleach but guess that is not a good idea.
Before I order more product, please tell me…can I simply use the Brightener then Stain (using RAD Solid in the same color)? Or do I need to do something else?
You have to use the RAD Deck Cleaner and pressure wash for prep.
I already stripped the deck but not happy with the cleaner I used from Home Depot. Can I still use your cleaner before I do the Armstrong Clark stain? Deck is 10 plus years old and over 700 square ft
It was still a little wet when the pic was taken. It has brightened up some
What are the advantages with the rad stain vs Armstrong Clark? It was my understanding that the oil is better for old decks
That is not true about oil being better. Advantages would be less chance of mildew and can be applied to damp wood. The AC is a very good stain though so it would work well.
Ok i think I’ll go with the rad stain. Semi trans or solid for my deck? Does the solid peel eventually?
Semi-transparent.
It looks like you may need to redo the stripping as there is still old stain on the floors and rails?
There is some I was hoping I could sand those spots. I will never use the big box store junk again. Do you recommend doing the strip brighten kit? Here is a pic of the steps after it dried a little more
Can you post it again? No pics.
Ok
Would you recommend the rad water based or Armstrong oil for my deck? I’m planning on stripping and brightening again with the rad kit
RAD Stain.
I just went through the 3 step process and have product left over – stripper and additives (all opened), brightener (opened), 2 gals of stain (1 opened / 1 never opened). What will be the shelf live for these? I keep all in my utility room, always stays about 75 degrees.
Unopened about 3 years. Opened about 12 months but could be longer.
Can you mix coastal gray semitransparent and dark walnut semitransparent to get a light brien that us similar to a taupe?
You can mix the RAD Stain colors.
is RAD dark walnut solid stain available in 5 gal container?
Sold stains only come in gallons sizes.
I have a 30yr old 20′ x 30′ deck. last yr I used Thompson solid color stain-this yr it is so faded it doesn ‘t look like I stained it. deck surface are 2″ x 6″ board. some boards have been replaced-rest of surface in solid shape. looking for a solid color stain and your product among best reviewed . any suggestions on prep-ie power washing?
thx
Is it peeling at all or just dirty?
Hello, I’m trying to figure out what product I need to use on my deck prior to staining. I have a 375sq deck (including railings, steps, and walls) that is four years old. It was stained once before, probably about three years ago.
Do I need to use the Restore-A-Deck Cleaner or the Stripper (I will then use the RAD Brightener) before staining. I do have a power washer. Some photos are attached. Thank you.
Stripper and then brightener for the prep.
Perfect. Thanks for the response!
Use the Cleaner for prep and then apply one coat. You can probably just do the horizontals only.
I’ve just built a small (65sqft) cedar deck for a playhouse in BC, Canada. Brand new cedar boards – presumed to be untreated currently. I’d like a sealer that will hold up well to moderate winters. Half the deck will be sheltered from rain and half will be exposed to sun and rain.
1. How can I tell whether I can seal the cedar immediately or whether I need to wait? The lumber yard stored it out in the open with a little shelter from rain. No idea when it was originally processed though.
2. Should I protect it from sun and rain until it can be sealed, or should I deliberately expose it to sun and rain before sealing?
3. Can you advise on a hardwearing sealer for this? RAD?
4. The boards are quite smooth. Will they require any prep prior to sealing? Any sanding etc? Presumably no stripping or brightening this first time round? Thanks!
1. You cannot do anyting yet: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
2. See article above.
3. You cannot apply a sealer before or after using the RAD Stains.
4. See article above.
We have a treated pine deck that’s 11 years old. Pervious owners used semi transparent darker brown stain from Lowes I’m guessing. I pressure washed it before deciding what we wanted to do & products etc. After much research & reviews I came across your products and think this is the way to go. Deck & most the the rails & pickets washed up ok but some have stain on them & the 4×4 posts seem to be holding on to the old stain more than everything else. Would like to change color to gray if we can. What would you recommend products wise & can we go to gray? Thanks
For prep, redo using the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener Kits. Once the old stain is fully removed, you can use the RAD Stain in the gray semi-transparent color.
I plan to use the solid white stain on previously painted pressure treated wood that has been sanded clean, except for a few areas where the paint has soaked into the wood to deep. Any additional prep work needed before staining and would two coats be recommended? Also can an anti-slip additive be used on the steps, they will be the coastal gray stain.
Prep should be okay as long as the wood is clean and free of peeling stain. Two coats. You cannot add anti-slip into a deck stain.
We have a 25-year-old 750sq ft deck that we plan on sanding off the peeling semi-transparent Behr stain that the prior owners applied who knows how long ago. What would be the appropriate steps/products after sanding if we plan to apply your semi-transparent stain? Rough guesstimate for how much stain we will need and if we should do one or two coats? Thanks so much! Looking forward to bringing our deck back to life!
Hi,
After sanding with no finer than 60-80 grit, it is best to use the cleaner and the brighener to open up the wood grain. Only one coat for sanded wood.
Does your 750 include all railings, steps, floors, etc?
No, after recalculating it’ll be closer to 900sqft. I’ve attached 3 photos showing the deck’s current stain condition. I was reading elsewhere that with a deck as old as ours we should only do an opaque finish. Is that true, or do you think the semi transparent stain will still look nice? Also, after looking at these photos, do you think we could get a good result using your stripper in lieu of sanding the entire deck? Thx!
As long as you can get off the old stain, your best option will be a penetrating semi-transparent stain. For prep, use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener Kit: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/order-restore-a-deck/rad-kits-best-price/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/flypage.tpl.html
with both stripper additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Let the stripper dwell for 45 minutes and pressure wash off. Might want to break it up into sections while stripping.
Ok, we are going to have to sand large, stubborn sections of our deck after doing 2 rounds of stripping. Does this change whether we need one or two coats of stain? If it’s dependent on our deck, what should we look out for when doing the first coat, to decide if we go ahead with a second coat? Are there drawbacks in overall appearance if we do 2 coats when it may only need one?
If you power sand the wood then yes, only apply one coat.
Ok, great. Next question, ha. Next steps would still be brighten, then stain, correct? Or do we need to clean the wood? With time being an issue now, how long can we go between sanding and brightening, then staining? And how long will brightener that has been mixed with water stay “good”? Thx!
Apply a brightener and giving the wood a good pressure wash rinse after sanding will work. Brightener when mixed does not go bad.
I’m a professional finisher in Vermont. I did these porch floors 3 years ago. The house was 5 years old at that time. I need to order products to redo them this year. I’ll be using Natural semitransparent. The first photo is the floor that gets significant sun exposure. Last time, the posts were mildewed, and we also did some orbital sanding on them. I don’t know what they were originally treated with. We stripped them, etc, before staining. They look better now, even after 3 years. I have 400 sq feet of flooring total. I could use help calculating quantity of products to order. Last time I brushed everything out with a stain brush by hand, but this time I’m thinking of using your stain brush and an extension pole. There is a total of 6 posts. How many coats should I do on the floors? I have to fend off 2 dogs, a cat, and chickens during this process. 🙂
We would just do one coat for this porch.
Should I strip it first? Thanks
Yes and brighten.
Use stripper with both addtives. Then Brightener.
How many coats of stain do you recommend once everything is ready to go?
2 light coats applied wet on wet.
Used Restore-a-Deck to stain a new deck in 2019. It needs to be restained. What kind of prep do I need before I restain it?
Use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener.
How many gallons of semi-transparent natural stain for a new, 175 sq ft deck (no rails, steps included), treated pine, never been stained, drying for about a year in Colorado?
2 Gallons.
I used the RAD stripper to remove most of the Arborcoat but in order to remove the remainder I had to sand the entire deck with 60 grit sandpaper. I have the RAD brightener but was wondering if I need to use a cleaner before the brighteneer because of all of the sanding. Thanks
It would not hurt and can help the stain to soak in deeper.
Last week your Coastal Gray stain was on sale for $40 a gal. I was going to order it and now I dont see the sale. Is it over??
The price has not changed.
I was wondering – should I use the cleaner or the stripper for my deck (~700 sq ft, unknown wood, ~5 years old)? I stripped and put clear stain on about two years ago, but it has become apparent to me during cleaning that it did not sufficiently protect the deck from UV – lots of greying that’s been coming up through power washing and detergent.
I’m planning on restarting the prep at this point and switching over to RAD products – I just want to make sure I’m going to be using the right materials. I was hoping to get this done now, but with the extra prep and the seasons turning I’m wondering if I should wait until the fall.
If you have a clear sealer on the wood then you should remove it and that would be the Stripper and Brightener.
Photos did not post before
See the pics not. We do think you need the additives.
Calculator results: 1090 sq ft, 2 jars stripper, 2 jars brightener, 11 gal stain. I don’t see jars for sale.
Should I order:
2 kits with containers of stripper, brightener, 5 gal stain,
1 additional gal stain
2 ea booster
2 ea thickener
How long can left overs be stored?
Yes on products. Unopened and stored where it cannot freeze, they can last about 3 years.
My PTP deck is 10 years old. It was stained with Thompson Water Seal semi transparent about 3 years ago. the finish failed and there was a lot of green and black algae. It was a little overzealously power washed and treated with Wet and Forget last fall. Most but not all of the stain is off. The deck, stairs, skirting total 640 sq ft. I am not sure how to calculate for the 3.5 ft tall 100 ft railing with aluminum balusters. I have a pressure washer and am planning to use RADl stripper, brightener, semitransparent stain and additives if recommended. How much of each product do I need? I don’t want to run out. Thanks
There is a calculator to the right on this page on desktop and the bottom on mobile. Use this to help determine the amount needed.
We would need to see pics to help determine if you need the additives.
You have furring and that happened from over stripping. Just finish the pressure washing and then let dry. Take a palm sander and to a pass over the wood with 60 grit paper. Brighten the wood last and then sain.
Thanks for the quick response. So continue to pressure wash this morning until all the white stuff is out as my first step. What if it doesn’t fully come out? Then, is the palm sander over the whole playset a must? Seems to be a massive undertaking. Also, how long do I have to wait to dry before brightening?
It is fine, as the brightener will neutralize the suds of the stripper. You can spot sand the furring areas only. should not take that long. Less than an hour.
Thanks very much. So just to confirm as I don’t want to mess this up further. 1. Pressure wash the whole thing over again as best I can to remove the stripper even if it all doesn’t come out. 2. Wait to dry and spot sand. (How long should I wait to dry? Few hrs, 1 day, 2-3 days? Can I use sand blocks instead of an orbital sander?). 3 Brighten and wash again. (How long after sanding to do this step? Given I over applied the stripper, any tips to not make that mistake again?)
1. Yes
2. Yes, until visibly not wet or damp. Sanding blocks can work as well.
3. Brighten and rinse.
Hard to say as we did not see a pic prior to stripping. It may have needed the additives. Or maybe it just needed the cleaner, etc?
Hi RAD, I spent another 2 hrs powerwashing and rinsing the stripper. I’m left with furring across the entire playset. I’m planning to do a quick block sand this afternoon and then brighten tomorrow morning. Is that OK to leave the brightening till tomorrow? I will run out of time today. what will happen if I don’t get the furring out? With the stain ultimately adhere and take to the wood??
You will be fine if you don’t get it out and if you brighten tomorrow.
Hi RAD – after much research, it seems that furrying is quite common after pressure washing old, worn wood. I’m going to sand and then brighten first thing in the morning as you recommended. Given I’ll be spending all that time sanding, will rinsing with a normal garden hose or very low 40 degree tip pressure washer far from the wood be sufficient to rinse out all the brightener? I know rinsing the brightener is critical, but don’t want to go too hard on the wood as i did with stripping.
Rinsing with a pressure washer is the correct way. Doing it from a foot to two away does not have any issues.
BTW, furring happens when you over strip or is from oxidation removal. It is not related to the pressure washer.
Thanks RAD, I hand-sanded with 60 and 80 grit which removed a lot of the larger furrying areas, and brightened. The set looks nice (before/after pics attached). Few questions as I prepare to finally stain tomorrow morning: 1) Should I lightly mist the entire set right before staining, and make sure to mist sections that dry as I go so it’s always wet/damp? Certain spots will get direct sun as I go, others not. 2) I read somewhere that vertical surfaces or areas where sanding was done should only receive 1 coat. I hand-sanded throughout the entire set for the most part as needed. Is it OK to do 2 coats? 3) I tried to strip and brighten bottom areas under the picnic table and behind the rock wall, but it was super difficult to get the pressure washer there to take off the prior stain, which was in decent shape in those areas. Is it better to apply the RAD stain over them, or should i just leave alone? Stripping and brightening all over there would be too burdensome for the time I have tomorrow.
1. You can: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
2. One is typical after sanding but it really depends on how absorbent it is.
3. It may not take over your old stain so leave alone.
Thanks, so regarding #2, this is my first time staining, so I don’t have an appreciation to assess the absorbency. If I do 2 coats but it really doesn’t need it, what can happen? Would it be bad? Alternatively, if I only do 1 coat, but needs 2, will the stain fade? I really want to do it right to last for the next few years!
Over application can lead to premature failure. More is not always better. The stain needs to fully soak into the wood grain for best results.
The stain always fades through the years no matter how many coats you have.
OK, so if overapplication is worse, is your recommendation to only do the 1 coat then given I hand-sanded in areas?
Yes.
After much research, it seems thatcurryingis quite commonafter pressurewashingan old deck. For the brightening step, since I will be spending all the timesanding, will rinsing witha normal garden hose or verylow pressuretakecareof getting out all the brightener?
When done with the stripping, it is normal to have to rinse off the residue that comes off. This could be old stain, oxidation of wood fibers, etc. When done rinsing with the pressure washer, neutralize with the brightener.
This is what the porch floor looks like this morning. It is quite saturated with all of the rinsing I did yesterday. You can see the unstripped part in one of the photos (the will be today’s project). Does the stripped portion look good to you and ready for brightener or is more stripping necessary? The wood knots are quite dark but not sure if that is an issue but am more concerned about the rest. Thank in advance for all of your help.
The dark black is still old stain that should be removed. The middle pic looks good to brighten.
There are some spots where I cannot remove the stain with the stripper after several attempts.
1) Is sanding it off with 60-80 grit sandpaper my next option?
2) Although I’m still working on stripping some sections of the porch, other sections have been done for2 days. How do I handle the brightener? Can I just mist everything with water and apply the brightener? I’m hoping I didn’t miss my window of opportunity for the brightener.
Again, thank you for your help.
1. Yes.
2. Yes, mist first.
See here: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Store-Policies/refund.html
Hello,
I plan on installing this IPE wood deck product on my 413 sqft roof deck.
I would like to use the espresso solid stain to darken the wood significantly. I’ve already used a RAD sample to confirm the color on a piece of the IPE wood panelling. i have a few questions:
1.) It looks like I should follow the new wood instructions? (https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html)
2.) How many coats should I use?
3.) How should I apply the stain? All the applicators I saw under application tools say they do not work for solid stains?
Thank you!
You cannot use a solid stain on IPE wood, you need the RAD Semi-transparent stain: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-on-exotic-hardwoods-ipe.html
1. Yes.
2. One coat.
3. Stain pads or brushes.
Oh – why is that? What wood can I use it with? I’m worried the transparent ones won’t be dark enough.
IPE is to dense for a solid stain to properly work to adhere and would lead the premature failure.
I see, thank you. Solid works with any non-hardwood?
Correct.
I have a side deck that is 6 ft wide by 24 ft long. On one side there is a railing while on the other side is the wall of the house. I am applyiny RAD solid stain to the deck. Do I have to worry about overlapping stain lines like with semi transparent stain or can I start at one end put on 2 coats as I go? Thanks
With the solid stain, do it all at once, let fully dry, then recoat.
From this response, do I assume that there is no issue with lap lines. Corrrect?
Not if staining each coat all at once.
Hello – restoring a deck in Massachusetts. Deck is about 450 sq. ft. and is about 8 years old. The deck is mostly PT Pine, but has a Mahogany ribbon around the outside. The PT Pine was stained with a semi-transparent PPG and the Mahogany with a transparent Thompson’s water seal. I am not sure when the last time the wood was stained. I do have a pressure washer and plan to use the Restore-A-Deck stripper + brightener.
My questions are about the stain. Is there a reason to Armstrong-Clark stain? Seems like the Restore-A-Deck product will be easier. Also, would you advise on using two types of stain for the different wood?
No reason to use the AC unless you want a certain color. Use the same type of stain for both woods.
Based on description + small pics, do I need the restore booster or additive? I do not have deck rails and the vertical face is limited to side of the deck/3 stairs in picture.
Use both stripper additives as the old stain looks thick on the steps and stair landing.
Realized that I will have to replace a few boards with new PT pine. Given status of deck, would prefer not to to wait to allow new boards to weather. Would I be able to tape/cover new board, complete the process on rest of deck, then come back to new board in 3-6 mo.?
Yes.
I have a small covered deck – I think it’s PT pine. After 2 short years, it is peeling & gray after using a big box brand all-in-one deck product (prior to that, I had 5 good years with what looked like just a clear sealant – the deck is 7 years old). That said – I purchased RAD stripper & the brightener and had planned to sand in between those applications to take care of any rough spots and/or stubborn remnants. Here are my questions:
1) I plan to use a RAD stain – best choice, since I can apply damp & the PNW will not. stop. raining. IF I sand, do I use 1 or 2 coats? If I don’t sand, 1 or 2 coats?
2) The original stain was natural or clear – the current nonsense that is masquerading as a stain is like an opaque pecan aka “80s Southwest brown.” I’d prefer to restore the deck to a natural wood look… is that possible on a 7yo deck or should I opt for a darker stain? I have dark walnut in my cart but would love something lighter without a red cast.
3) Once I do all the steps this summer – strip, sand, brighten, stain – can I just clean & reapply annually or do I have to do all the steps every time?
THANK YOU!!!
-One coat if you sand, two light coats applied wet on wet if you do not sand.
-The stain has to be tinted for UV protection so you cannot get a “natural” wood look and prevent graying.
-Clean and brighten in future when recoating.
I have previously used SW superdeck deck c k and dock. It is no longer available. So wondering if I can use restore a deck as a substitute.
You have to remove the SuperDeck first. Reply back with some pics for help with this.
I stained my deck about 3 years ago with solid RAD cypress solid stain. Can I just clean and apply one layer of cypress solid stain?
Yes.
What’s the shelf-life of an opened container of semi-transparent stain? Thank you.
12 months at most. Cannot freeze.
As seen in the attached image, I’ve halted after cleaning and brightening a few months ago. What should I do now?
Should I stain or start all over again? on the treated area?
Start over with prep.
is your product available in Canada?
We sell online for shipping to Canada.
Do you have a photo of a deck with light walnut stain on pressure treated wood?
You can find photos in our contests:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-prep-stain-contest-2022.html
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-prep-and-stain-contest-2020.html
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-prep-and-stain-contest-2020.html
What is the easiest way to prep balusters and hard to reach areas?
Apply prep products with a pump sprayer and then pressure wash off.