We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
After picture
I stripped the old solid stain, sanded and brightened and then put on two coats of solid stain. I am happy with the look and it seems like it will hold up to weather better than the product I used last year.
I have noticed that I can see bare wood in between some of the planks (on the vertical sides). Is this ok? Did I fail to put enough solid stain on to seep between boards?
No issues.
2016 I installed approximately 400sf of knotty red cedar, waited a year and used RAD with PW then TWP semi. 2019 I repeated the process. Very happy with the process. However, the floor seemed to have developed some ridges in the wood, maybe from using a stiff brush and the RAD cleaner last time around. Yesterday, I used 50/50 bleach/water to remove any green mildew and any dripping from the grill, lightly brushed and heavily rinsed. I’m considering belt sanding the entire deck to remove ridges. What would the process be after sanding the deck with 80 grit? or is this overkill? thanks
It is normal to have this and decking should not be overly smooth. We would not sand it.
1 coat on the verticals wet on wet on the floor. Looks great. love the product
What stain brand and type of stain are you removing? Also, can you send a picture of the wood when dry?
Do not use a wire brush.
I’m not sure what type or brand. Please see attached for dry pics of both areas, as well as the condition of the wood before stripping.
You have a varnish type (probably Sikkens DEK) coating on top of your wood, which is why it is having a hard time removing it. When a coating has a shine like yours, the stripper has difficulty penetrating through so it can work. You will probably need to sand it off to remove it.
Great, thanks! Do you recommend I use stripper before, during, or after sanding or not at all?
If you strip as much as you can first, it will make your sanding easier. Brightener would be last.
I have a five year old 20 x 17 ft redwood deck that was originally stained with a Thompson product that peeled pretty quickly. It was sanded and a Preserva oil based transparent product was used. Am looking to try the Restore-A-Deck product and was wondering whether the stripper or cleaner product should be used and whether any sanding/pressure washing will be needed for the semi-transparent stain? Also would 2-3 gallons of the stain be sufficient? Thank you!
Strip and brighten for prep. About 3-4 gallons for two coats applied wet on wet.
Our contractor and helper stained our deck/pergola yesterday with RAD ST Light Walnut. The helper was heavy handed with the stain and it’s dark and shiny on the deck floor. I think that he kept rolling until the wood couldn’t soak up any more. Looks more like a dark walnut than a Semi Transparent Light Walnut. There are drips and uneven areas all over and the vertical areas are inconsistent and they ran out of stain (5 gallons) The top of the pergola and posts aren’t even done yet
There are also splatters on the siding (they tried cleaning some up yesterday) and glass doors even though they were covered also have splatters.
I contacted the dealer for help and the rep on the phone told me to take a dry rag and it would take the shine off. My concern is that it will peel and that also won’t do anything with the drips in the various areas or the dark color. She said the cleaner may help remove some of the over staining.
I tried cleaning the glass doors and siding with 409 and Windex and the splatters are not coming off.
I have notified the contractor (emailed this AM). Any help/advise on how to fix this mess is greatly appreciated.
Use Goof off to remove from the glass. You cannot remove just the over applied stain that has dried. You would have to strip it all off and start over to fix it.
Sorry but this will be a long one. I have three projects for which I am only using your products and have questions on all three projects.
1. I installed a PT pine vertical fence two years ago. I waited one year for it to weather and then pressure treated it, used your cleaner and brightener and then two coats of your semi transparent stain (wet on wet). It came out fantastic and now one year after the staining it still looks great. When should I do a maintenance coat and when I do, should I just lightly pressure wash it and then apply another single coat of the same stain?
2. On my second project which I finished one year ago, I pressure washed, then used your cleaner, and brightener and then applied two coats (wet on wet) of your solid stain (also came out really nice) however I had to add three new steps (PT pine – six boards) which have now weathered for one year. I’m now ready to stain these steps with the same solid stain. Do I now use the same system – pressure wash, cleaner, brightener and then two (wet on wet) coats of the same solid stain?
3. My final project is a five hundred square foot deck of new wood PT pine that has weathered for one year. The spindles and handrails are not new wood and were never stained. I plan to lightly sand them, then pressure wash, then the cleaner then brightener and now my question – should I use one or two coats (wet on wet) of semi transparent stain on these spindles and top rails? And lastly, for the floor of the deck I have new wood PT pine that has weathered for one year and I plan to pressure wash, use the brightener and cleaner and then semi transparent stain – should I do one coat or can I do two coats (wet on wet) of the semi transparent stain.
Thanks much and thanks for making such great products. I have already recommended you guys to many friends.
Michael
1. As needed. About 3-4 years for a fence. Clean and brighten for prep.
2. Yes, correct.
3. 2 coats applied wet on wet.
can i darken the stain i ordered
Sorry but it cannot be tinted.
If a cedar deck (5 years old) has been stripped of old finish then sanded with 80 grit sandpaper, will it need one or 2 coats of RAD semi-transparent stain after cleaning/brightening?
One coat since it was sanded.
Hello – wondering if I should use cleaner + brightener or stripper + brightener?
Details: 2 barn doors. Not sure about wood, looks like pine. Semi-transparent natural stain, but unsure of brand. Prob about 5 years old. I have access to a pressure washer. Roughly 450 sq. ft (front/back)
Strip and brighten will be easier.
Thanks – is the clean basically best reserved for existing RAD stain? I just used RAD products for my deck, so trying to plan ahead (hopefully far ahead) :).
You clean and recoat when using the same brand and color of deck stain otherwise you should strip.
Did the first strip/brighten and results pretty good. Noticed that there are some “fibers” appearing now. I’m not concerned about the texture, but will this impact the RAD stain? Any additional steps I need to take?
Looks a little rough from the prep/pressure washing. Might want to buff the floors. See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
This is on a barn door, so raising a large orbital will be challenging. Do you suggest using a palm sander with buffing pad? (If if even exists)
How does it look when wet? If good, then it should be fine when stained. It seems your barn door is rough sawn wood anyhow so it just might be the way it is.
I’m at 2.5 weeks since doing the strip and brighten on these barn doors. Repeat the process or give it a pressure was, then stain?
Pressure wash and stain should be okay as long as it has not grayed.
My question is about applying a different color over an existing one— coastal gray over cedar. Because the stain is semi-transparent, I realize the gray will not cover completely. But could it tone down the cedar color? Is that a possible result?!
No, you cannot tone down the cedar color. You can mix the cedar with another color prior to applying. We do not have ratios on this so you would have to test it on your own.
After i clean and brighten a deck previously stained RAD cedar, can I apply coastal gray to tone the color down?
You would have to strip and brighten if you want to switch to the gray.
Just give it time to cure and it should be fine. Could take a week or two. Stripping in many cases is easier than cleaning. The same amount of work but removes the coating so you have an easy surface to stain.
Should we stay off the deck during this time? What about placing outdoor rugs and furniture back on the deck?
Also, can you please explain the goal of the cleaner? It is consistently functioning very much like a stripper for us but it’s not removing all of the stain without a serious amount of scrubbing. What ideally should happen when we clean the deck with the plan to reapply the same color of stain?
Yes, stay off until dried and cured. The goal is to prep the deck so it has proper penetration and adhesion. It is normal for some stain to come off during cleaning.
Can previous restore-a deck stain be recoated (with restore-a deck stain) without being stripped off?
Yes, but use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener kit for prep.
I think it’s important to note that the cleaner will remove a lot of the existing stain. I was not expecting that. Still not sure if the goal is to remove all of the stain or just what comes off easily.
How much it removes or does not remove depends on how many years between coatings and how much the stain has deteriorated through those years.
How often would you say a deck should be restained (by cleaning and staining over the existing stain)? I am in the process of stripping old stain (not restore-a-deck) and then restaining with your product. Im trying to avoid the stripping process in the future.
Every 2-3 years for a deck.
A year ago I built a new house (Minnesota) with some accent cedar siding and wanted to keep the cedar appearance. Painters recommended Sherwin Williams SuperDeck (waterborne) clear sealer which we went with. The siding has direct sunlight and is definitely turning gray. I would like to refinish it ourselves and transition to RAD cedar semi-transparent stain. Would the stripper work for removing the SuperDeck and do I need the booster and thickener? Thank you
Can you post a couple of pictures?
It is rough sawn tongue and groove cedar siding. Reference sample was kept in the garage without light exposure the past year. 1 gallon can is the sealer that was applied.
No need for the Stripper additives. Apply the Stripper and pressure wash off. Brightener is last.
Great, thank you!
what to do about raised grain after cleaning and brightening
If desired you can buff it off but not always needed. See some tips in this article: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck
Hi, We moved into a house and the previous owner stained the fence and deck with the CANADIAN FORMULATION OF Behr Premium semi-transparent stain and sealer. The deck is peeling but the fence is not.
1. Will the RAD stripper and brightener work on this product.
2. Do we need to strip the fence – the stain is not peeling so we are hoping it is possible to simply go over it with a solid stain.
1. Looks like a solid sain so no, it cannot be fully stripped.
2. Strip off what you can to remove the peeling stain and then you can apply the RAD Solid stain over it: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-solid-stain.html
Hi – we stained most of our deck after prepping with RAD stripper/brightener/power wash on June 26. Looks good but we ran out of time and were not able to finish a section before leaving town. (It is a separate section from what we finished so isn’t half-stained or anything.)
If we stain early next week do we need to prep the entire section all over again? Or can we just go right to staining? Thanks!
Give it a good pressure wash rinse prior and it should be okay.
Perfect. Thanks! These products have really done a nice job for us.
Last year I bought two five-gallon jugs of stain, but used less than one of the jugs. This year I restained the back porch with left-over stain, and it turned out well. Then I did the front entrance on another day, using the last of the left-over. But it ran out, and I did the bottom step with a new jug. The results on the bottom step are unsatisfactory – the light colored areas turn black when they get wet.
I think I did two things wrong:
1. I shook the new jug well, but it looked a lot lighter than last year’s. I suspect I needed to scrape the coloring from the bottom of the jug, or somehow get it to fully mix. How is the best way to do that?
2. The light areas look like they didn’t get stained, or were not properly prepared. However, I used the stripper with additive, scrubbed extensively. I even scrubbed after applying the whitener. I applied what looked like a lot of stain.
The bottom step clearly needs more work, but what should I do?
It did not take correctly. The easiest thing to do is sand that one step with 60-80 grit and apply one coat of stain.
I have a 2000 sqft wrap-around redwood deck that is 25+ yrs old. Cleaned with TSP and applied PreservaWood stain 3 times in past. Will your stripper/cleaner with extra additive and gel clean this mess up?
Please reply back in comments with some pictures.
Attached are five labeled pictures. Two that were TSP treated/power washed and three untreated
This is not an easy strip as what you have on the wood is way over applied and on the wood like a film-forming varnish type coating. You can try the RAD Stripper with both additives and pressure wash off as much as possible. Sand if needed to get the rest off. If you get it all off, then use the RAD Semi-Transparent stain after. If not, then use the RAD Solid Stain.
I have just purchased your stripper and brightener kit and intend to start by stripping all the vertical surfaces. Afterward, I will need to replace a few decking boards and strip the decking. My question is: Does it matter when I use the brightener? Can I use it say up to a week after I do the stripping; or do I need to use it immediately after stripping? My deck is about 360 square feet; so at my age, this is going to be a several day project.
Best to brighten as soon as you can.
Sorry, one last question. I read somewhere that the stripping material could be mixed for a stronger mix than the two pounds for five gallons. What is the max recommended mix for one gallon (ounces per gal)? Thanks
10-12 oz per gallon of water.
What is the shelf life of the stripper, cleaner and brightener once mixed? (I have used all three)
Only the cleaner has a shelf life after being mixed. It needs to be used within a few hours.
This is a follow up. I do have a pressure washer. Deck is approximately 400 sq and I have no idea the last time this was stained ==== based on old container and color, best guess is that they used a transparent cedar stain. I plan to go with your stripper and brightener and finish with one of your stains. I was not planning on refinishing the railings at this time as they are in good condition. I will protect the bottom of the railing so it doesn’t get discolored.
First would you still recommend the booster? Second, would you recommend the semi transparent or transparent cedar stain? And is it recommended to put plastic on the side of the house to protect against damage to paint when stripping and brightening? Thanks
Not sure if this can be fully stripped as it looks like a film-forming acrylic semi-solid. We would suggest using the RAD stripper and both additives to remove as much as possible. If needed sand any that cannot be stripped. Teh stripper will not remove the paint off the house. Just prewet and rinse any over-spray.
When using the stripper, is it necessary to use a power washer or will a hose with a nozzle on ‘jet’ setting work?
Pressure wash it off for best results.
Forgot to post pictures of actual deck after one round of step 1 cleaner and step 2 brightener.
Yes, it has some more oxidation that can be removed.
stained my deck last year with RAD semi transparent . what prep is needed to put another coat on this year
The RAD Cleaner and Brightener kit.
I have a deck which was pretty weathered, I don’t have any before pictures. I wanted to see should I do another cleaner and brighten step before staining?
Yes, if it needs it.
What’s the best method to clean brush after using RAD stain?
Cleans with water.
Can RAD stain be thickened so it’s not so watery?
No, and it needs to be thin in consistency as it is a penetrating stain.
Good morning – after going through all of the prep steps, I stained part of my deck yesterday morning using a mix of the dark and light walnut. I brushed the stain on and did 2 coats using the wet on wet method. Unfortunately, when I walked on the deck today it was very tacky. Not sure what happened but I need to know what should I do now. There obviously is too much stain on the deck. Should I strip now and start over please advise.
Give it more time to cure. A week or so.
Ok. The other issue is that the stain (2 coats) dried much darker than I expected. So its tacky and darker than I wanted. Can I strip the stain today and start over?
It is not easy to strip off a newly and over applied stain. You can do it but it will take some effort and you would need both stripper additives as well: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Ok thank you.
Last question – will rubbing mineral spirits on the stained part even out the stain at all?
It will not.
Hi. Hoping for some help. New house (for me) with a really old deck that I need to get a few more years out of. Want to use your solid stain. Do I need to use the cleaner if it’s been thoroughly power washed? Can you help me figure out how much solid stain I will need? Measures the 3 sections as follows: 1: 22’7” x 18’4”; 2: 15’9” x 7’; 3: 14’ x 32’. That doesn’t include the benches & railings so figuring adding 2 more gallons for that. Also saw you recommend NOT using wood filler on holes & damaged areas, correct? Including photos and any guidance you can hide would be hugely appreciated.
Prep by removing any loose or peeling stain by stripping and or sanding. You can cover the intact stain that is not peeling with the RAD Solid Stain. About 10 Gallons for two coats. You can use a filler if rated for exterior if using the solid stains.
Hi. Do you have a wood filler that you recommend? Also, I’m concerned that some existing paint may peel. If I want to clean it with your product first, what product do you recommend and how much? (Purchased your solid stain already but haven’t started the project. Looking to do so next week.). Thanks for your help!
Any exterior wood filler will work. Use the RAD Stripper and pressure washing to remove any loose or peeling stain.
What should I use to remove cuprinol from my deck
Post some pics in the comments of the deck.
We just finished cleaning our deck (not using the RAD Cleaner); it is nice and clean. We have not stained or treated our deck in Rhode Island for many years. We plan on using the RESTORE-A-DECK WOOD STAIN, Semi-transparent. Do we really need to apply the RAD Brightener before we apply the RAD Semi-Transparent Stain?
Yes, to neutralize the Cleaner.
Thanks for the quick response, even on a holiday. Happy Independence Day!
And, thanks for the education. I’ll be ordering shortly.
Used Cleaner, Brighter and Semi-transparent stain on new redwood deck 1 year ago. I am now prepping deck to stained again. After using cleaner “some” of the previous stain was removed. If I apply same semi-transparent stain, will the color look lighter where stain was removed compared to rest of the wood?? If so, what is the best remedy??
Post a picture.
Hi RAD Products. Here is a picture of the deck. Left side is the exposed area. Right side is area under the deck overhang. This is after the deck was completely cleaned.
Looks good to stain.
Back to original question – will the color look lighter where stain was removed compared to re-staining over stained wood??
It should all blend in when done.
Do you accept returns of unopened stain? I ordered way too much and have a 2 1/2 gallon unopened.
See here: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Store-Policies/refund.html
Do you have a video on how to apply the semi-transparent stain using a brush? Also, is it necessary to wipe any excess stain with a clean cloth to avoid tackiness?
See here for customer videos: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-customer-videos.html
In 2020 I sanded my 30 year old cedar deck to bare wood. I applied Restore-A-Deck cleaner and brightener before staining with TWP 1515. Results were excellent. In 2020 I had surgery on my foot which required a long recovery period and I did not clean the deck resulting in a significant accumulation of dirt. I just pressure washed a section which removed the dirt but revealed a spotty stain coating. Do you suggest I use the cleaner and brightener again before applying a new coat of stain? Would staining require two coats wet on wet?
Yes. Use the prep and then apply one coat of you have a base coat.
Sanding of deck almost complete. Cleaning and brightening next followed by semi transparent RAD stain. This is old wood (some portions older than others). Do I need to power wash after the brightening step or just rinse?
Pressure wash after the cleaner, pressure “rinse” after the brightener.
Got it – thanks. I read a few posts indicating that since I am sanding a single
coat of semi transparent stain should suffice. Is that correct?
Yes, if power sanding.
where can i get these products in canada?
We sell online only with shipping to Canada.
I have an 800 ft2 deck that is 25 years old and last stained about 2 years ago. I have always used Behr or Cabot semi-transparent cape cod gray water-based stain. I have no photos but it is obviously time to re-stain it. The stain never lasts more than 2 years anyway but the deck is still quite serviceable. I don’t care how pretty it looks – just want to preserve it so I don’t have to replace it. I am not picky. My thought is to power wash it, then use either your semi transparent stain (gray) or just do the same old Cabot stain again. Your opinion?
You cannot use our semi-transparent stain unless you remove all of the old stain first. Once this is done, the RAD Stains would be much better than the Cabot.
So I sanded, recleaned, and brightened my deck which is mostly old wood with some newer planks mixed in. What I am noticing is that the newer wood still has some white patches on it. What should I do?
Also, I plan on using your semi-transparent stain mixing light walnut and dark walnut. I know the older and newer wood will never be exactly the same but is there any way to make the difference not as noticeable?
Thank you!
The prep looks fine to stain. There is not any more you can do to make new and old wood blend better.
Thank you. Do you think the semi-transparent will look good or would you lean towards a solid stain?
We think the semi-transparent will look good.
ty
CAN YOU MIX CLEANER OR BRIGHTNER IN 5 GAL. BUCKETS AND USE IT IN 2-3 DAYS LATER.
Not the cleaner. It has a shelf life of a few hours after being mixed with water.
This is my First time using RAD Stain.
i have an IPE Wood Deck.
I stained my Deck Yesterday. It has dried and looks good. my question is, Do I need to apply 2nd coat of Stain? If 2nd Coat is Recommended when can I apply 2nd Coat?
Looks like Rain is in the forecast tomorrow.
No, only one coat for IPE.
Finally finished our front porch with your stripper, brightener and antique walnut stain. I used up all the brightener and stripper but have a lot of stain left over. We have a very small deck at our vacation cottage and I would like to use some of the leftover stain on that deck. I also do not want to order more stripper or brightener. Can I just power wash the deck and use the leftover stain. The results don’t have to be as perfect as it is just a get-away kind of place. If I can just pressure wash and stain can I stain with the wood wet or do I have to wait for it to dry out?
If you have a prior stain on your cottage deck then that needs to come off before applying the RAD semi-transparent stain.
Ok. So if all the old stain comes off with the power wash can I go ahead with the RAD stain? Can I apply to wet wood it does it have to dry out first?
As long as the old coating is removed, then yes. Damp or dry wood for applying: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
You are not doing it correctly. After applying the cleaner or stripper you have to pressure wash off and then brighten. It will restore the color and remove the gray oxidation.
Thanks, I should have been more specific, I guess I didn’t mentioned I followed the instructions pretty close I thought, just like I did last year when it turned out ok. I did a few board at the time. Misted it first, I used a scrub brush to apply and let it soak in for 15min. making sure it stays wet, then I scrubbed like it states step 5 (it mentions scrub or power wash, I don’t have a pressure washer) and I fully rinsed, then I applied the brightener and let it soak and brushed it in a bit before I rinsed out fully…maybe that was the mistake? Anyway, so it’s ok if I try again right away or do I need to wait a while? Thanks again very much.
You can redo now and make sure to clean all first and then brighten all after and all at once. Lave on for 15-20 minutes with the brightener. Use a pump sprayer to apply the cleaner and the brightener, not a scrub brush to apply. Rinse with water when switching between prep products.
As a follow-up to my previous post – the existing stain is/was a solid color stain so appears my only recourse is to sand off all of the old stuff. Once that is done should I use the brightener or cleaner or both prior to staining?
Both for best results.
Strippers will not remove solid stains. You will have to sand and grind.
Yep – got it – after sanding/grinding should i follow up with cleaner/brightener before using RAD semi-transparent stain?
Correct.
I am staining a horizontal board cedar fence that I had installed in Nov 2020. I had to do the fence in sections for a variety of reasons and started with the side that faces my neighbors house. I used your cleaner and brightener and it worked wonders, now am staining using TWP 100 Cedartone. I’ve had to do this by hand via brush given the gaps in between the boards. So far so good (see photo).
Once I finish this, I’ll be starting on the other side that faces my house. I didn’t clean and brighten that side when I did the side facing my neighbors. If I clean and brighten the unfinished side, will that negatively impact the fully stained side given that liquid can (and will) easily get through the gaps in the boards? Don’t want to ruin any of the nicely stained side! Welcome any tips for how to mitigate.
You should clean and brighten both sides before staining as the soap and oxidation removal (graying) can get through to the other side and can create a mess that is unsightly. The prep products may even lighten the stain some.
Also, when staining, take care that the stain does not bleed through the gaps, leaving drips and runs on the opposite side. You may have to go back and forth to check while working.
Thanks for the response. That’s what I was afraid of. Given I’ve already stained the one side, is there anything you suggest to avoid ruining the side that is already stained? Maybe just do cleaner and skip brightener?
No, you have to do both prep. When done with the one side that is opposite where you stained, immediately go to the other side and rinse the stained wood to remove any grime and soap.
Great idea, thank you!
I ordered five gallons to much stain how long will it last unopened
About 3 years if stored where it cannot freeze.