We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
I have three decks and multiple staircases. All are redwood. Two decks are completely covered by a roof and the third is partially covered and partially sun/rain/snow-exposed. The stairs are exposed as well. In total, there is about 1400 square feet of wood surface.
The three decks are 3 years old. The first year they were not treated and were allowed to weather and dry out. Then we applied your RAD water-based semi-transparent ‘natural’ stain. They were first cleaned and brightened, also with RAD products. The decks looked good and we were happy. First Winter they weathered well. Second Winter, they started showing wear in the areas not covered by a roof – an area jutting out from the front of the home plus steps going down to the river. I wanted to re-treat the decks last season but couldn’t find anyone. Then I wanted to get it done this Spring but couldn’t get anyone. I live in a small mountain community in southwest Idaho. I finally found someone with limited experience but who was guided by my contractor. I had been away from my home back east for an extended time so was not home when the work was started. So, I just let the guys commence work on the decks…power washing, stripping and brightening.
The guy chose to use Sherwin Williams Stripper and Sherwin Williams Reviver (brightener) – 5 gallons each for all the surfaces involved. He says he is now ready for me to provide the stain product. But I can clearly see there is still stain on many of the boards and a lot of blotchiness on most of the boards and/or graying in the sun-exposed areas. I say it isn’t ready for stain. I had hoped the redwood would be nice looking after cleaning, stripping and brightening and could have an oil-based transparent or semi-transparent natural stain applied. But to me, this deck is not ready for transparent nor semi-transparent stain. Would you agree? (Note: I do not want to put a water-based stain on again – our Winters and sun are too harsh here in the mountains of Idaho.)
Perhaps I should have insisted upon using your RAD stripper and brightener products. I would like to know what you think after looking at my photos. Do you think your RAD products would clean the decks up better and get the rest of the RAD stain out? Or, do I need to ask him to sand the entire surface of the decks to make the surfaces ready for transparent stain? Another alternative is to apply a semi-solid or solid oil stain but I am not feeling ready to accept that is the only option at this point for my 3 year old redwood deck.
Thank you.
Donna
Please see attached photos.
No, it is not prepped correctly. He did not remove the old stain fully and it does not look like it was brightened much or at all. You should redo using the RAD stripper and both stripper additives. Make sure he pressure washes it all off. Brightener after.
Thank you. I looked and found 1 stripper additive on your website – am I missing another? You said both stripper additives as if there are two kinds. Please confirm and direct me to them. Also, will you please confirm the steps for re-treating the wood – are they: cleaner?, stripper with additives, brightener, pressure wash?
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
No need for a cleaner first.
Stripper with additives and then pressure wash off. Brightener after and then pressure rinse off.
Directions are on products and website.
Thank you!
Stained with TWP 100 last year. Want to do a light cleaning for maintenance this year and will plan on restraining next year. What should I do for this years light cleaning? Should I use a cleaner and brightens or just some dish soap and water? (Will use RAD cleaner and brightener next year before restraining.)
The prep products should only be used when recoating. Try dish soap and water.
Thank you!
If needed, use a soft brush like the one you use to wash a car.
I have a ten year old deck, made with pressure treated wood, probably spruce, maybe pine. I used the cleaner and brightener and then we got two days of intermittent rain. Today looks clear. Can I stain once the deck is dry, or is there an issue due to the 2 day delay?
Thanks.
That depends on what stain brand you are using?
Yours of course! cottage grey
In the absence of a reply, I had to go ahead and stain while the conditions were good. This is me doing the first coat. I love the wide brush, the stain went on evenly and smoothly.
Sorry, we replied above to your prior question in the wrong spot: You can apply our stains to dry or damp wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
Deck looks good!
Thanks, that’s good to know. My question was more about the fact that I couldn’t clean, brighten and stain in the same day. It was two days later. I’m finished now, but still curious to know how long after cleaning /brightening is it ok to stain?
Stain within 2 weeks of prep.
You will not be able to strip your decking as what you have on there looks opaque and filming forming. You will have to sand it off to remove it. As for the siding, it is hard to tell if it can be stripped. It looks like it but you will need to use the RAD stripper with both additives, let dwell for an hour (keep from drying by misting) and then pressure wash off.
Thanks for your reply. Would it be best to clean the deck before sanding? And after sanding, do I clean? Or just brighten?
No need to clean prior. Clean and brighten after sanding for best results.
I took a deck board to SW to have them tell me what’s on it, they say it is a solid latex stain (I thought that was paint) and they recommended SuperDeck Deck and Dock. What, if anything, can I do to successfully apply your semi-solid stain? If nothing, will your solid stain go over it? Thanks!
You would have to sand off a solid stain if you want to use the semi-transparent. If you do not want to sand it all off then remove the peeling solid stain and cover the intact solid stain with the RAD Solid Stain.
I’ve watched a lot of videos and researched your site. You say that on a continuous deck board to apply the stain without a break. My project is a porch rather than a deck. About 6′ wide but then has a handrail that is 4″ off the surface then porch extends about 9″ underneath and outside the handrail. No way to cover the board without a break.
Can you spray the semi transparent stain with an airless
You can spray and yes you can continue with a wet edge under the rails and then all the way across.
There is a rubber membrane roof under my porch deck. Will RAD stripper damage the membrane?
It shouldn’t.
Returning customer with different deck. 3 month old pressure treated pine floor (painted rails) 12 x 21 ft. (Calculator says 283 with steps.) Happy with the products on my last deck and understand I must use cleaner and brightener before staining. I have a gallon of cedar stain left from 2 or 3 years ago. Can I use it? How many coats of stain do I need on new wood? Do you sell the 2.5 gal jugs (as my leftover is?). Thanks
Shelf life is about 2-3 years so it has probably gone bad. See here about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
How can I tell if it’s “gone bad”? I had a bigger deck before and have leftover brightener. Can I buy cleaner and stain (without brightener)? Thank you.
We cannot guarantee that the old stain will be good if used. It is a time issue and you bought it 3 years and 2 months ago.
See here to buy cleaner only: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Cleaner-Only.html
Here are some pictures of my deck I can’t send through Amazon.
The issue you have is that what is on the deck is a solid/opaque stain, not semi-transparent. Behr, lies about its opacity, and when you look at your stain, it clearly shows no wood grain through the coating.
Our stripper clearly states that it will not remove a solid/opaque stain as you have on your wood. You will have to sand to fully remove it.
We would appreciate it if you removed your review on Amazon as it is incorrect to the product description. Let us know if you will be able to do this. Thanks!
Do you sell the solid stains in a 5gal bucket?
Only single gallons.
I have a 12+ year old IPE deck in Florida that I stripped, cleaned, & brightened 3 years ago. I have cleaned/brightened each year since. This year I would like the wood finished so it has that beautiful red/mahogony finish. I was thinking I would clean and brighten again and then apply oil or stain. Is this the right approach, and what product do I finish the IPE with?
After the prep, use the Light Walnut color of the RAD Semi-Transparent Stain: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-on-exotic-hardwoods-ipe.html
Used the prep and sanded (60 grit) to remove some old stain to get down to the wood(cedar). Do I really need to clean and brighten again? Don’t you need to sand after using brightened?
Yes, you should clean and brighten to open up the wood grain for the stain. Sanding closes the grain.
I have also have a question about cedar deck. I’m sanding removing sikkens oil based stain . Do I need to use the cleaner after sanding or can I use RAD brightener to open up the wood grain before RAD stain ?
Clean and brighten is best.
I used the Brightener after cleaning the deck a couple times – once a couple weeks ago (no brightener used) and then cleaned again today withe the brightener used immediately after.
As the wood is drying it is drying an almost whiteish hue, not gray. The deck is pine and about 5 years old. This is the first time power washing-cleaning-then using brightener.
Is turning that whiteish hue normal as it dries?
Yes, and it will be fine once stained.
Thank you.
What do you recommend for restoring the color of an Ipe deck, I just cleaned it and it is a light gray color. I am hoping for the original natural light brown color.
The RAD stain in Light Walnut color: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-on-exotic-hardwoods-ipe.html
Yes.
Hello,
I finished a new deck with Restore-a-Deck two years ago. The winters are harsh in Chicago, so I’m thinking it’s time for a touch-up. I’m planning on using the same, semi-transparent natural color stain as last time. Do I need to use a stripper to remove the old stain first, or should I just clean, brighten and add another coat/touch-up?
Thank you!
Clean and brighten will work.
My deck has the Pittsburgh Paints restore solid color stain on it..hate it for obvious reasons…what prep do I need to do to apply your solid color stain over it?
Prep by removing all loose, peeling stain, dirt, and mildew. You can then cover the intact stain with a new coat of solid stain.
My husband is replacing several uprights on our deck prior to re-staining. He’s stained the new pieces with the old stain so they’re close to matching the rest of the deck prior to restaining. (He didn’t want the new stain to look different on the new vs. old wood.) We’re planning to use the opaque cedar Restore-a-Deck stain (after stripping and brightening, of course). Should he not have stained the new wood? What should we do from here?
See here about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
I mixed my Restore-a-deck stripper this morning, then realized I needed to complete more prep work. Will the mixed Stripper last for 24 hours after mixing, to apply? Is it better to apply the stripper in the evening during a very hot day, or wait until morning.
How long to I have to wait before applying Armstrong Stain, after brightening with Restore-a-deck Brightener?
thank you
The stripper will not go bad. Apply when 90 or less and mist with water to keep from drying out. Stain 48 hours after prep with the AC stains.
Can I paint over Restore-A-Deck to get the color I want? If so, what is the best kind of paint to use?
We would never suggest using a paint on a deck as it will lead to peeling but yes, you could paint over it.
Can I mix two colors of RAD simi transparent stain? I’d like to warm up the cottage grey a bit.
Yes, you can!
I am updating (resuscitating?) a 25-30 year old deck (50 sf) and stairway (100 sf) on a California house.
– Both are probably redwood, but the stairway addition could be cedar.
– They are east and west facing respectively and both get a good deal of sun since the house is perched on a hill without shade/trees nearby.
– They show NO signs of stain or protection and have seen better days.
– I have carefully power washed, brightened, and reinforced the loose boards and they look remarkably better already. Now it’s time to protect them.
– I am planning to use a semi-transparent or more likely semi-solid (assuming I can find the right product/base and color combination).
…I think you’ll recommend the Restore A Deck water based system, but am open to oil-based options and would appreciate your recommendations for both.
Also, after reading (almost!) every Q&A and review on this site, most people seem happy with their newly stained decks shortly after the application, but do they have tangible feedback – actually, photos – after say, years 2 or 3? For RAD, there’s a photo from Alexandra after one year with dogs, but what does the average wear and tear look like? (I am a firm believer in doing it right the first time – and maintenance – but would like to know what’s really involved once you’ve made a product selection.) Thanks!
Best would be the semi-transparent RAD Stain. As for the time to redo, it is normal to clean and brighen and then recoat a deck every 2-3 years. No stain will last longer than this on a deck floor.
Yes, RAD semi-transparent would be a good fit… I was thinking about using a semi-solid stain (for extra protection and coverage since the deck is showing age), but now realize there is no RAD product in semi-solid!).
1) What bout Armstrong Clark in semi-solid? Would you recommend one over the other, if so, why?
2) Your website sells TWP products, has anyone tried the TWP Water Series?
Re: application and maintenance:
I’ve used oil stains before and am ok with oil or water-based recommendations, as long as they perform (and are CA/VOC compliant).
1) Which product(s) perform the best (based on deck/stairs above)?
2) Which is the easiest to redo?
3) Can you proactively redo in years 1 or 2 (light clean/recoat only, without “2nd coat issues”) before a full redo is needed (deep clean/brighten/stain)?
Thanks!
1. AC has good semi-solids.
2. We do not sell their water-based.
-All we sell will perform the same
-All can be cleaned and recoated as needed.
-Prep is the same no matter what if 1 year or 3 years later.
Thanks, last one (I think). Will semi-transparent hold up (and protect) as well as semi-solid, or is that just a theory I heard at my local hardware shop? I do like the natural wood grain look of transparent and semi-transparent products, but am afraid this wood may be too old…
More pigment = better UV protection but you will still have to redo every 2-3 years on a deck for eithr/.
As I mentioned below, I finished my deck a week ago. When can I go over the existing stain with another coat? I have stain left over. Also, in future, how long to wait before apply a new coat? Is there a recommened frequency for re staining? I dont want to have to strip again, so I want to keep up on the maintenance. Thanks!
You can lightly clean and recoat next Spring at the earliest. Prep and recoat every 2-3 years or as needed.
I have a 32’x16′ deck. I have replaced about half of the boards with MicroPro Sienna pressure treated 5/4 SPF boards. The remaining boards are about 15 years old and have a solid light grey stain that has pealed quite a bit in some areas but remains well adhered in other areas. I tried using BEHR Premium Wood Stain and Finish Stripper to remove the stain but found it wasn’t very effective. I had to use a wire brush and a lot of elbow grease to remove the stain that was still adhering to the wood.
Questions:
1) What stain product would you recommend to finish the deck that would result in the lowest long-term maintenance effort? Semi-transparent or solid, water based or oil based?
2) What preparation do you recommend for the product recommended?
Thanks very much for your assistance!
1. Use the RAD Solid Stain to make it all blend since you currently have a solid stain on the deck.
2. If the wood is new on 1/2, see here: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Do I need to use the RAD stripper and brightner if my deck was stained two years ago with 1500 rustic and I want to use the same 1500 rustic now? I plan to power wash deck before staining. I live in upstate NY finger lakes region next to lake.
If using the same color and stain as prior, use the Cleaner and Brightener for prep.
What do I need to buy to stain our deck? Here is information and photos of my deck:
1) Approximately 1151sf (this includes the benches and stair)
2) Cedar
3) Age of wood unknown
4) Deck installed one year ago; haven’t stained it yet because I wanted to let it weather
5) Will rent a pressure washer
When I purchase the products, will there be instructions on what to do from start to finish? I’m not a DIY type of person, so this will be a big project for me.
Do I need to sand the deck?
You need the RAD Cleaner and Brightener Kits for prep. It does not look like 1151 sq feet. What are the deck surface dimensions? Length x width?
Do not want you to overbuy.
Yikes! Thank you for catching that. The surface dimensions are 25.5’Wx15’L for about 383sf. The surface dimensions for the bench totaled about 49.6sf, which makes the total square footage of deck and bench to 484sf.
This kit will work for prep and stain. All instructions are on the website or containers.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-stain-combo-kits/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-5-gallons-and-cleaner-brightener-combo-kit/flypage.tpl.html
Great! Thank you.
2 Years ago I used RAD Stripper and Brightener and then stained with TWP 100 Cedartone. I’m not thrilled with the performance of the TWP on the horizontal surfaces. I’m in Kansas so the deck suffers temps up to 100F degrees in the summer and below 0F in the winter. I am thinking of trying the RAD semi transparent Cedar stain this time. Do I need to use RAD Stripper to remove the existing TWP or just the RAD cleaner then brightener? Or would it just be best to stick with the TWP?
Strip and Brighten for prep. Try switching.
Here are pics of the peeling stain….
It looks closer to semi-solid, what brand is it?
ooops…it is semi-solid….Sherwin-Williams Banyan Brown
It probably cannot be fully stripped so sanding might be needed as well. The best option is the RAD Stripper with both additives. https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
And Brightener after.
My deck has a (pealing) semi-transparent stain. To get the best results, from reading these posts, do I need to strip the deck of the previous stain prior to using the cleaner/brightener kit? I am ready to start this project ASAP. Will my kit work satisfactorily with a strip product that is not a RAD product? Recommendations of strip product I can purchase locally.
We need to know the brand you are stripping and see pics, to offer proper advice.
Here is my finished 20 year old Oregon deck that was pretty hammered at the start. I had to replace some boards. I have to say I am so pleased with this product and the assistance offered. I ordered 5 gallons of stain, stripper, booster, brightener- the whole nine yards. Yes, it was a lot of prep but it was worth it. Love this product and love this company!
Looks great! Please enter this year’s contest: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-prep-stain-contest-2022.html
Looks great! What material (pine?) and what RAD color?
Thank you. Its a cedar deck, and cedar stain. I bought the entire kit.
You can apply our stains to dry or damp wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
I striped an oil based product off of my western red cedar greenhouse two years ago and used restore a deck stain. Have been very pleased. However the side of the greenhouse that takes most of the sun and rain needs to be resealed. Do I have to use stripper or can I use the cleaner and brightener that I used two years ago? The cleaner was very effective at cleaning all of the old stain, mold and algae. Your stain restored the natural beauty of the cedar. I will be using your stain again. It did not grow mold or algae as the previous product did.
No need to strip. Clean and then brighten.
ok have started the stripping process, today may be 1- week before getting back on project, should i put the brightner on it now after stripping or closer to when staining, and if i put it on now the wood is wet that is ok?
Right after stripping, while wood is wet is best.
ok did not have the time to get that done, now it is dry , can i wait and put the brightner on a week before i stain?
Yes.
Will the brightener work as well if applied after using a cleaner from a different manufacturer or is it very specific to be used only after using the RAD cleaner?
This general cleaner I used, which was used earlier this summer for another job, said it would remove mold, moss and mildew. After cleaning and when the floor boards were still wet you could still see green. Now that the boards have dried out overnight they have turned a light gray and no color. I am thinking that rather than put on the RAD brightener now to wait until Fall and clean the boards again then put on the brightener. Thoughts?
No, just brighten, and then stain is all you have to do now. The green was internal and will go away. Brighten always has to be done after stripping and or cleaning the lower the pH balance.
Thank you for your reply. I did the cleaning on this past Saturday. How many days do I have following the cleaning to apply the brightener?
Brightener is supposed to be the same day as the cleaning or as soon as possible.
I’ve purchased the kit. What’s the best way to apply step 1 and 2 (strip and brighten)? Can I use a pump sprayer that will pressurize the solution? Or should it not be pressurized/depressurized? Thank you!
Apply with a pump sprayer and then pressure wash off.
20 year old cedar that has not been treated in many years if ever. I pressure washed it. There is approximately 1600 square ft of deck, no railings. I do not care for solid stains and would like it as natural cedar as can be
Prep with the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener kit. Stain with the semi-transparent stain: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-combo-kits.html
About 10-15 gallons of stain.
We are embarking on the process of finishing two different treated pine decks, neither one ever stained. First (back) was built 3 years ago, the second (front) last fall (9 months old).
We got the semi-transparent stain samples and tried on a few ends with no prep, briefly wetting the surface (to mimic wet application), using sponge brushes and applying twice, about 10-15 min apart. Pictures are provided for the light walnut and the dark walnut semi-transparent samples obtained, against the newer deck.
Questions:
– Given the sample application described and the pics, would you say that the resulting samples are likely accurate or lighter than what we will obtain after full preparation? (They seem lighter than advertised to me, so I am unsure whether to rely upon my result or the site pictures). Would you recommend another coat (~10 days later) JUST for the samples, and JUST for color testing purposes? We’re still trying to decide on color.
– Do you have other pictures of applications on pine that you can share?
– Is it ok to apply the same treatment (i.e. 2 coats) to both decks, given the respective ages, or should the front deck stay with only one coat?
– Initial discussions with the painters was that spraying is ok (before we decided on stain). In some material on the site I see spraying given as an ok option, in most the stain brush is mentioned. Can you clarify if spraying is ok or not, and if both are ok what are the advantages of doing one over the other (in term of results, I assume the painter understands the application pros/cons). Please comment also on the best method to use to apply to a vertical lattice underneath.
– The decks are 300-400 sqft each. Would you expect 1 person to be able to apply one coat in less than one hour, to be able to start second court in time, or would 2 people be needed (I am assuming each deck done on a different day).
– Of course everyone tries to apply stains as evenly as possible, but should there be uneven application should we expect to have to go back and wipe off excess, or…? How soon after applying should a check for uneven distribution be done?
– Assuming we are going with Light Walnut, and we want to go darker when is time to re-apply in a couple of years: Is application for Dark Walnut at the time the same as for light, or would something else/additional be needed to go darker?
-The final color varies based on the age of the wood, prep, and application. You cannot apply another coat 10 days later. It has to be wet on wet if doing two coats.
-You can see pics in our contests: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-prep-stain-contest-2022.html
-One coat for wood that is less than 12 months.
-You can spray but most do it by hand or brush for better control and appearance.
-One deck can be done in an hour or two.
-Apply evenly by hand with brush is the best way so no back wiping is needed.
-Same
Thanks for the reply.
I would appreciate more details about what to expect if painters insist on spraying rather than brush: just the need for back wiping, or additional issues?
For vertical lattice, is brushing still best?
Finally, the website specifies in some places 2 coats for wood older than 6 months, you mention 1 if less than 12. We would be just under 12. Is that still 1 coat?
If you spray, just back wipe as needed to ensure an even application or to catch any drips or puddles. Same with verticals. One coat.
Thank you for the previous answers, one more question:
How important is to get the brighening done the same day as the cleaning? If two days are needed, can cleaning be done in day 1, with brigtening and staining on day 2, i.e. brigtening be done pontentially after the clean wood dries overnight?
Brightening the same day is always best but if you cannot, do it as soon as possible.
In April 2019 I rebuilt my deck with new kiln dried clear cedar and used RAD Cedar semi-transparent stain. The first picture shows results. The second picture is now. I have an ample supply of stain, but what should my prep steps be to get a good long lasting finish? The area is approx 250 sqft.
Use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener for prep.
Need advice. Used your products on our deck last year. Unfortunately our dogs love to use the deck as a playground, so we need to re-stain again. Do we need to use cleaner and brightener before staining or quick sanding and staining right after will suffice? Or sanding, cleaner and brightener? Thank you in advance
Stripper and brightener and then restain.
I used the RAD steps 1 and 2 about 2 weeks ago on my deck in preparation to stain it. The weather took a turn and it has rained twice. Do I need repeats steps 1 and 2 again prior to applying the stain or can I just power wash, let dry, and then stain?
Pressure wash should be okay.
Square Footage of Area to be Restored: 700 sq ft
Type of wood if known: tight knot cedar
Approximate Age of Wood: 6 years
If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
cabot semi transparment oil based stain. last restained was 2 years ago by me.
Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.): Deck
Do you have access to a pressure washer: Yes
Miscellaneous Info:
*Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area. attached
please list the recomended products i need to do this job. i want to use solid stain.
Strip and then brighten for prep prior to using the solid stain. Two coats of the RAD solid stain.
I messaged last week asking what cleaner to use to remove overspray on my metal roof panels. The recommended solvent “goof off” works with a lot of effort. I have a lot more overspray than I realized so this will require hours of work. My question, will paint stick to the stain and if so what is the best paint for great adhesion?
Your response was very timely and I greatly appreciate that!
Thanks in advance, Les
You can paint over the stain but not sure what kind of paint will work on metal.
I ordered your sample pack and applied all four colors to freshly stripped and cleaned deck boards and railings, and am leaning towards either the Cedar or Light Walnut. They look remarkably similar to me, so I feel like I can’t go wrong with either, but I’m wondering what qualities should theoretically distinguish them apart? We want to avoid too much red or orange tone in the stain, which of the two has more of that (if any)?
Also, for the sample I followed the wet on wet directions and applied the stain about 2.5 hours after completing the cleaning. The resulting finish looks remarkably darker than the image on your website, is it possible I applied too much stain or is this more likely just the variation possible based on my wood (not sure what type it is or how old)? Any tips for a finish truer to the images on your website?
In the images attached, the stains go Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut, Dark Walnut (bottom to top/left to right).
Light walnut has a little more red.
Stain colors vary based on wood type, age of wood, and application. This is normal.
Thanks – I have pretty much completed all the stripping and cleaning for the deck, but now our area has been hit with really heavy rain over the last few days. I see that the semi-transparent stain is recommended to be applied to damp wood but is it possible to be too saturated with water? (I know the puddles need to be gone)
The wood cannot be soaking wet. Damp to touch is okay.
I have removed some rotted boards from my deck. I was planning to replace them with new wood (green cedar-not kiln dried), then strip finish off remaining boards. Will the stripper damage the new boards? What steps would you take?
No, it will not damage the new wood.
I have tried all recommended linseed stains(twp, AC, flood, sikkens) and ALL have oxidized and turned mottled gray during the drying process and definitely worse in the 6 months following application. My deck never had such problems the previous 15 years with high voc Olympic formulas in the pre restriction years. My question since this will be first water based stain usage…how to clean the RAD product when on the deck without it fading (ie dawn soap or other). What soaps have you used and confirmed no stain removal or fading/bleaching?
Warm water with a dash of dish soap.
I have just purchased RAD stripper and brightener with clear cedar stain for my deck; Can I use the stripper and brightener on my teak outdoor furniture? I would then use a Teak oil finish on the furniture.
Yes.
Its suggested to apply your stain to damp wood. What does that mean? Can I dampen it myself and how much should I do it? Thanks.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
I have two spaces to do in the house we bought. It was built in 2018.
#1 (pic 90-91) 8 feet x 12 feet landing with a railing of 16 feet x 8 feet (128 square feet)
#2 (pic 63-67) 12 feet x 22 feet with railing of 12 feet x 3’5 feet (square feet)
I have never done this before and am not a very ‘hands-on’ person. I will have to rent the equipment. What do you suggest in terms of steps/equipment and how much time do you think if would take? My friends suggested your products because they were really impressed by the results (and it survived our harsh canadian winter!)
Use this to prep all of the wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/best-restore-a-deck-prep-products/restore-a-deck-package-300/flypage.tpl.html
Stain with the RAD Stains: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-5-gallon/flypage.tpl.html
I’m going to stain my pine fence with the RAD Cedar semi-transparent stain. A few questions:
1. RAD Cleaner: I don’t currently have a power washer. Any recommended specs for a new purchase on the flow and max pressure? Any recommended tip and pressure setting for the rinse process?
2. RAD Stain: I’m going to be using a Wagner Control Pro 170 airless sprayer to apply the stain. Do I need to back brush if I use the sprayer? Any recommendation on the tip size and pressure setting for applying the stain?
1. Any decent pressure wash with 2000-3000 PSI and GPM over 2.4 should work well. Always use a green or white tip.
2. Back brush as needed to ensure an even application and to catch any drips and runs. Any fan tip will work. Wider is easier,
Hi there,
I have been working on removing the previous stain on my 20 year old deck with a combination of RAD stripper, a brush, and a power washer. Due to time constraints, its been a slow process and I do a section at a time. I am almost done removing all the previous stain, and I assume the next step is the RAD brightener before doing the RAD stain. I noted varying color of the deck at this point. 1) Does it look like I am on the right track? 2) Will the varied color of the deck even out after the brightener? Thanks.
1. Yes.
2. It should but it also should even out when stained.
I just power-washed my 3-year old unfinished deck yesterday. To use your stain, must I power-wash it again with your products.
To do it correctly, yes.