We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
I have a 30 year old 430 square foot deck, stained in 2019 with an oil based semi-transparent stain with color “canyon brown.”
I’d like to use your product but lighten up the color. After stripping and brightening, would I be able to stain using the “light walnut” color? The closest color you have to my existing stain is “dark walnut.”
Thanks!
That is not an easy strip. See here for the best option to remove: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-paint-solid-stain-stripper-5-gallon.html
You might need to sand a little as well. Once removed, you can use the Light Walnut.
What is the ideal temperature and how long does it have to be at the temp if I was do to my deck in 1 day
50-85. Cannot drop below freezing the first night.
Hi, need to sell house, 30 year old neglected deck needs restored, what products of yours and equipment do i need? Thx. A magic wand would be great, lol…..
To remove this solid stain, you will need this stripper: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-paint-solid-stain-stripper-5-gallon.html
Once removed, you can use the TWP 1500 Series.
I have a deck that I will do using cleaner/brightener and stain on.
My chickens like to hang out under the deck.
Should I cover the dirt under the deck before washing and staining it?
Yes.
I applied RAD solid stain 2 years ago. There is some minimal flaking along fissures (splits) in the decking, but overall it’s still in good shape. What is the correct prep for maximum layer to layer adhesion? Should I wait another year.
Pressure wash for prep while using the prep products. You can do this whenever you think the wood needs another coat.
I previously used Armstrong Clark semi-solid on my deck. 6 months ago, I had my deck floor boards flipped, 3 new treated floor boards installed, and new treated top railings and stairs. So that I don’t have to wait another 6 months to stain, I’m going to use TWP semi-solid stain this time.
Should I use a RAD stripper with or without additives? I’m including a pic of my flipped deck boards. From the look of the boards, do you think I’ll need to sand them or will the stripper be enough?
I’m not sure what type of wood the old boards are but I think the new boards are pine. I don’t know the age of the old boards but they were present when I bought my home 9 years ago.
No need for the additives here.
Thanks! Will I have to sand the old boards or will just stripping be enough?
Stripping should be enough.
Should I use the RAD cleaner on the new treated stairs and railings?
Regarding the 3 new treated deck floor boards, it’s going to be difficult not to get the stripper on them since I will be using the stripper on the old deck floor boards. Is this alright or will the stripper damage the new deck floor boards?
Also, I don’t have a pressure washer to wash off RAD products. Will a garden hose with a high power attachment work alright?
New wood needs to weather and be prepped. https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood
It will be fine if you get stripper on the new wood. Rent a pressure washer for proper results.
Hi there,
We are hoping to stain our fence, have approx. 760 sq. ft. of surface area. The wood is pressure treated, likely pine, most of it 20 years old, the posts just a year. Don’t think it’s ever been stained. We do have access to an electric pressure washer. Would love some advice on process and amount to purchase! We are in Ontario, Canada if that helps!
Prep with this:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-package-300.html
Stain with this:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-5-gallon.html
I have a pressure treated pine deck, about 500 sq ft, last coated with Armstrong Clark semi transparent oil based cedar stain around 2020. Half of the deck is under a porch and gets little weather on it. The rest is shaded about half the day. I have found that the AC tends to get some black mildew and green algae forming on it as the years go on. If I had it to do over again, I would have used the water based RAD brand from the beginning, but I don’t think I can switch at this point. I have already started getting it ready for a recoat with the RAD cleaner, but there are still a lot of dark areas, and it looks like I am going to have an issue with the area under the roof looking different than the part out in the weather. Would I be better off using the stripper on the entire deck for a more even appearance, followed by the brightener? Would the RAD Guard help the situation at all? I do have a pressure washer if that will help.
Yes, strip and brighten for prep. After staining you use the RAD Guard to prevent mildew in the future.
Thanks for the prompt reply, that is impressive customer service! The idea of using the RAD stain really appeals to me, because I don’t have to worry about letting the deck dry completely, and it’s better at controlling the mildew. It’s also about $50 less for 5 gallons. If I am using the stripper would this give me the option of switching from the AC to the RAD product, or am I stuck with the AC? Thanks again!
You can switch once you strip and brighten for prep.
I finally got around to using the stripper and brightener. For the most part it looks pretty good, but there are a few areas in the grain that seem pretty stubborn about holding onto the stain, even after 2 applications of the stripper and brushing with a broom. Will this cause a problem with the Restore-A-Deck cedar stain?
Thanks!
No, you are good to stain now.
I applied two coats of the RAD cedar semi transparent on Saturday. It took longer than I expected because I was working alone, and as it got later the direct sunlight became an issue. I worked as fast as I could, but I am afraid that the first coat dried a lot faster than I realized so I wasn’t able to directly follow the “wet on wet” application. It soaked up and dried so quickly that I basically would have had to apply the second coat within 5-10 minutes of the first. Ambient temp was in the low 80’s.
Now my problem is that I can feel my shoes sticking to the deck 48+ hours after application. Will this go away, or am I screwed? I would like to be able to put my furniture back on the deck. We have an outdoor area rug that goes under the table on the part of the deck that is under a porch roof. When can I put that back down? Thanks!
It should go away but at this point, it is not fully cured. Give it time. Maybe a few more days.
The word “should” concerns me. Looking back, and for future deck staining endeavors, what should I do to avoid this? I did the top of the railings the day before when it was cooler, and while not as bad as the deck, they are slightly tacky.
You have to do it wet on wet and not wet on dry. If for some reason it is taking too long then you should use application tools that are easier for applying or possibly be a 2 man team.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application
Also cannot be in hot sun.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-hot-sun-application
Applying the stain to a 500 Sq foot deck floor should take less than 30 minutes when using the proper application tool(s). Such as:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-staining-brush.html
It’s getting better, hoping I can put the furniture back this weekend. Yesterday evening I did a set of stairs that I wasn’t able to get to. This time I basically put the second coat on almost immediately because the first coat soaked in so quickly. There was maybe 8-10 minutes between coats. This worked much better. This morning it was completely dry, no stickiness at all, and it has the flat sheen that I was looking for.
Great!
Here are pictures
I have a deck over 6 years old. The top boards are made of pressure treated 2×6. I think they are pine. I recently build steps around them of cedar and stained them using Ready Seal Natural Cedar stain. I pressure washed the old top boards, so they now have a greyish color. How shall I prepare the old top boards so that when I stain them, they will come at least close in color to the new cedar steps?
Use our Cleaner and Brightener Kit for prep: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-package-300.html
I have a quote with shipping for approximately 512 dollars is this in US dollars or does your site recognize and calculate the amounts in Canadian when address is put in?
USD.
Thank you.
Last week, I washed, brightened and then stained my deck (All RAD products), and because the stain had faded so much since I last did it (in 2021), I put two coats of semi-transparent stain on and now the deck is very tacky and a little shiny, so I’m assuming I oversaturated it. As I know the only solution is to strip the deck and redo it, I have already ordered the stripper, brightener and a fresh gallon of stain and (weather permitting) was hoping to redo it sometime in the next two-to-three weeks. My questions are – is this too soon, and if I do strip it, should I just put one coat down or two? Thanks.
Use the Stripper additives to help strip newly and overapplied stain. Just do one coat after.
Thank you! I did purchase a bottle of the booster because I know I overapplied and the stain will still be fairly fresh. Is it still okay to strip and re-stain this quickly? It’s just really tacky. My shoes were still sticking to it yesterday (3 days later). We’ve got a lot of rain coming this week and next, so I’m guessing the soonest I’ll be able to get out there will be Memorial Day weekend (or immediately after). I just want to make sure I don’t do any damage to the wood. Thank you!
Yes, you can strip and stain whenever you have time.
Hi! I’ve been using your products for several years on a 300sq foot pine deck. Two years ago I stripped, washed and brightened my deck using RAD and then applied two coats of semi-transparent cedar. It looked great the first summer, but by this year it was so faded I decided to wash brighten and stain again. Would I still want to put down two coats? Thanks!
Just one coat if you have a base coat.
Good morning RAD crew,
Here’s my situation with 2 pictures to illustrate.
The build is 2 years old. Montreal climate means it’s in use for only half the year maybe, in this case with direct exposure to sunlight most of the day.
Material is brown pressure treated pine. Only the cuts have received an ‘after cut’ treatment at the time of the build, nothing else so far. Wood was no so great quality so lots of cracks.
I plan on giving a quick sand on the horizontal surface unless advised otherwise (because of wood quality issues) but hoping not to do much of that on the vertical parts.
I have roughly 436 sqft of horizontal surface, and about 624 sqft of vertical to cover. I plan on giving the vertical parts only one pass and giving more attention to the horizontal with a second wet-on-wet pass as I go (thoughts ?).
What I’m looking for here is mostly tips for the prep with product and quantity to order. Also tips about applying the semi-trans stain, dry time, rain, sun etc… would be nice.
Note: I do have access to a pressure washer and a garden sprayer if those can facilitate the project in any way ?
Thank you
JB
No need to sand. Clean and Brighten for prep. Proabbly 2 kits. Staining with one coat on verticals is okay. About 7-10 gallons total for all wood.
Lots of tips here: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/topics/deck-cleaning-reviews-and-tips
Thank you, you mean 2 of prep kit ‘300’’ ? from what i can find on the site…
So when during prep would the pressure washer become an asset ? Washing away cleaner and/or brightner ?
What is the brightners’ purpose exactly ?
Thanks again !
Yes, correct on the kits. A pressure washer makes your job easier and more efficient with better results. You pressure wash after the cleaner. You rinse after the Brightenr. Brighener neutralizes the cleaner and leaves your wood in a neutral pH balance. Better for the stain performance as well.
What are the pros/cons of the semi-transparent vs solid Restore-a-Deck stains (durability, cost, ease of application/reapplication)?
Durability is the same. Comes down to preference on opacity.
Hello,
I have a 512 sq ft deck, ~16′ x 32′. I replaced the top boards (5/4 x 6″) last summer with new MicroPro Sienna pressure treated SPF from Home Depot. Unfortunately, in the Fall, hundreds of dark berries from a pear tree fell on a portion leaving dark stains on about 100 sq ft. (See photos. )
I would like to clean off these berry stains and apply a semi-transparent stain. The deck is located in Stouffville, about 25 miles north east of Toronto. It is on the south side of my house, so it gets a fair bit of sun. I do have access to a pressure washer.
Can you please advise as to what are the best steps to remove the berry stains and what stain would you recommend for both long life and ease of maintenance and re-application.
Thanks!
Hello,
We are not 100% sure what will remove the berry stains. Your best option would be to use our Deck Cleaner and Wood Brightener. If anything will remove the deep stains it will be the brightener.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-package-300.html
I’ve stained my deck 3 times with restore a deck walnut semi transparent stain.it’s due for a recoat. Do I use the same process of cleaning, brightening, and staining? I thought you recommended clean only but no brightening the last time I restrained.
Clean and brighten is correct.
Hi there,
I’m preparing to stain my 3 year old, 700 sq ft. pressure treated deck. Can you recommend a stain? I live in Ontario and my deck receives sun all day long. 1. I’m wondering if I should use your RAD water based stain or the oil based one? I’m looking for ease of initial application, and reapplication for future maintenance but most importantly, longevity. In terms of colour, I like the look of it when it is wet. 2. Transparent or semi-transparent? 3. Colour suggestions?
With Thanks!!
Use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener Kit for prep. Stain with the RAD Stain in Semi-Transparent Natural color.
Thank you! And how much of the Cleaner and Brightener and stain should I order?
1 Cleaner and 1 Brightener. 5-7 gallons of stain for two coats.
Do you offer a military discount to veterans?
Sorry, but we do not.
Looking for some assistance for a 1000 sq ft deck. Used your product for last application, not sure how long ago, maybe 5yrs? Would like to clean and restore in 1 day but not sure how much of each product to order. deck is 10 yrs and 15+ yrs old
Post some pics for prep help.
Here ya go
Use this for prep. Very easy:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
Stain after.
Sorry for posting this again, I cant find my previous comment. I had stripped and applied your product last summer (I bought the entire kit). Initially it looked great, but I must have messed something up. We have rainy winters here. What did I do wrong, and I have stain left. What do I need to do to fix it? Should I apply another coat wet on wet? Thanks.
It looks like the boards that is is wearing more than the others are actually rotting. Some of them might need to be replaced at some point.
Clean and brighten the floors while pressure washing. Stain after. Railings should be okay to skip this year.
My deck is about 700sf and in Western WA. I stained with RAD semi-transparent light walnut 2 years ago. Last year I removed a planter box and had to replace the deck boards beneath it and did not stain them to let them weather. I now have the combination of weathered raw wood (fir or hemlock) as well most of the deck which was previously stained. What do you suggest before re-staining in order to even out the old and new wood? Thanks.
Strip and brighten all wood. Use the 2 additives with the RAD Stain stripper.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-strippers-and-additives.html
I used RAD stripper followed by RAD brightener with light power washing. Then coated with Penofin marine oil.
Followed same steps one year ago and my deck looked great. This year it is splotchy with light and dark spots.
Ipe installed 2010
400 square feet
Do I need to strip/light sand/brighten and then apply a semitransparent stain or Ipe oil?
Yes.
Any tips on where I went wrong this year
Not sure. You may have over-stripped and or not brightened fully.
Do I need to wait a period of time before stripping again? The directions say to apply brightener immediately after stripper while deck is still wet, so should I sand before stripper or after brightener when deck is dry?
If you sand, brighten all wood after.
We just bought this house. The deck is about 1100 sq ft. I think it is 18-20 years old. Does not look like it’s been treated or stained. I would like to clean and stain it with the cottage gray. I have a power washer. I removed the old lattice on the railing with plans to use cable railing. We are also very near the ocean. Do you recommend a RAD kit and how much will I need?
I would suggest 2 of these combo kits to prep and stain the wood. This should cover two coats for the horizontals.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-5-gallons-and-cleaner-brightener-combo-kit.html
I’m planning on recoating our deck with semi-transparent RAD after cleaning and brightening. It’s weathered and mildewed some in the 2 years since our last recoat. I’m looking at your new RAD Guard product and wondering if it’s a good idea to apply this after re-staining? If so, how long after applying the stain should I wait?
Yes, apply it after the stain has fully dried and cured. A few days or a week.
Hello,
I’m wondering if you sell in Canada, also wondering if I prep using your products if I would be able to use the solid stain over an old oil stain that I did 2-3 years ago without sanding the whole thing down? Thanks for any and all help you can give me!
We ship to Canada from our site. There are no dealers in Canada. As for prep to recoat with a solid stain, this is a very good article on the subject:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Stripped,cleaned and stained my 200 sq ft deck with restore-a-deck 3 yrs ago. Needs a refresh/re-do. Treated pine, have a power washer. Some deck is under a roof, most exposed to the elements. Replaced a corner last week with new treated pine. So have a mish mash of everything. Love your product. What do I need to do this year? Thanks!
New wood needs to weather:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood
Strip and brighten all after so it is as even as possible. Stain after.
Might want to consider that after the staining to prevent algae:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-guard-mildew-cleaner-preventer-1-gallon.html
Thanks for a quick reply.
Can I strip old wood now and then clean,brighten,stain all in July/Aug after new wood has weathered?
Yes.
Hello
2 years ago (June 2021) I used your products and recommended application for my fence and deck. Stripping previous stained fence/cleaning old bare wood deck, brightener, stain.
I was pleased with the initial outcome of the fence and still pleased to date. See photo of fence.
I was pleased with the initial outcome of the deck. See same photo with fence and deck.
However, after 1 year and a Canadian winter, some of the deck stain was stripped off. The photo below shows the current situation after 2 years/2 winters (April 2023).
Please let me know the following for the deck
Thank you
Marshall, Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
You over-applied the stain. In the pics, it is showing that is dried on top of the wood instead of in the wood. /teh directions state to only apply as much as the stain can fully absorb. If it fully soaks into the wood, then it cannot do this.
At this point, it would be best to strip and brighten the floor and recoat. One coat my be sufficient but if you do two, make sure it is wet on wet:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application
And not in full sun:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-hot-sun-application
It is normal to redo a deck floor every 2-3 years or so but it should be a clean and recoat when you have even fading. The fence can last twice as long. You cannot make a stain last longer but do remember, more is not better with a penetrating stain.
I have a new pressure treated pine deck with Trex railing. How will any over-spray from the cleaner and brightener impact my saddle brown Trex railing?
No, but rinse when done with water to remove wood fibers and soap residue.
Hi guys. First of all, I’m a big fan of your products but now seem to have a problem. 16 months ago I applied two coats (wet on wet) of your Cypress solid stain and it came out beautiful. Last week I ordered and received your RAD Guard Mildew Cleaner & Preventer.as I was beginning to see early signs of mildew. My deck only gets about 2-3 hours of full sun per day and i wanted to be proactive. I pressure washed the deck and let it fully dry. I applied the RAD Guard Mildew Cleaner & Preventer to my entire deck using a pump sprayer and excluding any vertical surfaces and let it dry. I know the directions say it may take 1-3 weeks for it to fully work but it has now been 5 full days (no rain) and I still have these splotches – please see photos. Any recommendations on what to do to remove the splotches?
How big is the wood area that you applied the gallon to? It should only saturate the surface and not puddle.
Based on the photos, it looks like there is a chance it was slightly over-applied in certain areas. I would recommend rinsing the deck. If just rinsing does not remove the splotches, try a soft brush (like a car wash brush) on the areas to remove the splotches, while still wet, and then rinsed again. It should not need to be scrubbed hard, just enough to agitate the Rad Guard, and then rinsed clean.
Thanks for the really quick reply. The wood area was around 150 square feet. I’ll follow your recommendations and let you know how it worked.
Thanks again – you guys are the BEST!
Hi guys and thanks for the recommendation. This morning I wet my deck and then scrubbed lightly with a soft bristle brush followed by another rinse. I then used a squeegee to remove the clean rinse water from any depressions in the deck. A few hours work but worth it as all splotches are gone and I now know my deck will be protected from mold and mildew for quite a while. It might have worked with just a firm rinse but I hate to do a job twice. As you know, not all decks are perfectly flat (especially older decks) and often have some small depressions and/or cupping so I would urge you to add something to your directions for this product along the lines of “Do not let RAD Guard puddle.”
Thanks again for your great products and especially your terrific customer service.
I applied RAD Dark Walnut on my 2+ years ago and I am ready to re-stain it as it is showing some wear. Do I need to strip and brighten or should I just clean and apply stain?
Clean and brighten while pressure washing should be sufficient.
I have a small back porch in which I applied Benjamin More Arborcoat solid decking stain several times and have had with pealing not matter how much prep work I do. My question is can I apply Restore-A-Deck Solid stain over the Arborcoat if I sand it or do I have to strip off all the Arbor coat?
You should remove the peeling BM as much as possible by stripping as you cannot “fix” a bad product by adding a quality deck stain like our RAD Solid Stain.
I miscalculated the amount of solid stain I would need for 2 coats. I ordered more. How long is too long to wait to do second coat? I estimate it might be 5 days before will have product and be able to do it.
Just apply your 2nd coat of solid stain when you get the new product.
Square Footage of Area to be Restored: 1,726 – no fences
Type of wood if known: Was told redwood
The prep looks good to stain. Apply 2 coats of the stain wet on wet. About 15-20 gallons of the stain for the 2 coats.
Which stains do you recommend? What about the cleaning products do we need to do that first?
Use this to stain: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-5-gallon.html
You do not need more prep.
Ok great I will order now. Square Footage of Area to be Restored: 1,726 – no fences. IT looks like these are 5 gallons, how many gallons do I need to cover the 1726 sq. ft?
15-20 total gallons.
I’ve cleaned and stained my Ipe deck annually for the last three years. One thing I wonder each time I do it, however, is just how long do I actually need to rinse the cleaner and brightener? I know the instructions say “20 minutes” but what does that mean?
Does it mean the entire surface of a deck needs to be washed down for 20 minutes? That would take hours. I have noticed that when rinsing both the cleaner and brightener, it takes a long time before there are absolutely no bubbles that wash up when the water hits it. I’ve spent more time rinsing that any other step in the process.
Is that necessary?
A total of 20-30 minutes for an average size deck.
Can you please make recommendations for the following fence project. I plan to use your semi-transparent Cedar stain to match my deck which I stained with this product a few years ago (quite successfully!):
What prep steps/products if any are recommended?
Do I need to do 2 coats on a fence?
What quantity of stain to buy, and is this for 1 or 2 coats?
Any sprayer recommendations? For this much area I’ll invest in a sprayer, not sure if there is anything in particular to be looking for in a sprayer to apply your product(s). I already have a decent capacity air compressor as well as a pressure washer.
Thank you!
-RAD Clean and Brighterner kits for prep.
-Yes.
-About 13-15 gallons for all wood and 2 coats.
-Any quality sprayer will work with the RAD stains.
Do I need to apply a sealer over the semi transparent stain after stain is applied?
No and you can’t add a sealer over a deck stain.
Hi there! We stripped and brightened our deck with your products and was ready to stain with semi-transparent stain. However, we noticed our car was green with pollen so we decided to wait to stain until the pollen is gone, maybe two weekends from now. On staining day, do we have to start over with cleaner and brightener? Do we just hose the deck off without chemicals? What should we do? Thanks!
Give it a light wash with water to remove andy dirt or pollen.
Hello, I have a deck that is over 30 years old. It is about 225sqft plus stairs. The previous owners used Rustoleum deck restore. A year after moving in the deck was peeling all over. I have removed all of it on the surface by sanding, however, the balusters are still covered. I am looking for the best way to clean and restore the deck. I believe a solid stain would be best, but I am unsure of the prep needed.
Pressure wash all wood and then use the RAD Solid Stain.
This wouldn’t need cleaner/brightener prior to solid stain?
Sorry, yes it will.
Thanks. With a larger deck, if I prep today and don’t get to stain same day, is it okay to stain tomorrow? Solid stain. Do I need to wet it again tomorrow?
Yes, and you do not have to wet it down prior.
Hello, I would like to know if your RAD Paint and Solid stain stripper will remove an acrylic (valspar) semi transparent stain that was just applied to a new deck. It is likely over applied.
Thanks.
Yes, it will.
I have a 20 year old deck. Removed the Behr DeckOver product. Do you recommend applying 2 coats of stain? If so, how long between coats?
How did you remove the DeckOver?
I have approximate 225 sq ft deck – pressure treated wood. Installed 2019, stained with sherwin Williams super deck waterborne semi transparent stain in 2020 and the deck was covered that year too. The deck boards that get sun are peeling. I bought valspar stripper, did about 1/4 of deck – did ok job but not great. Went and got Sherwin Williams super deck stripper and did another 5 boards or so and the previous boards I did with valspar previous for 2nd time stripping. It’s barely stripping the boards that didn’t get the direct sun. Googling other brands and came across RAD. What should I order? Stripper, Brightener and I want to use your semi transparent stain. Also – what’s approximate ship time for Midwest?
Please respond back wth some pics of the hard-to-strip areas so we can suggest the appropriate product to buy.
Here you go. I also have fuzzies from the pressure washer and trying to get this off. Do I need to lightly sand? If so what process to follow?
Use this to strip it: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-paintstrip-paint-solid-stain-stripping-gel.html
If you need to sand, do it after.
Then brighten it and stain 2 light coats if doing semi transparent? I will not get this all done in one day I am sure – so is it ok if I strip one day, sand after it dries, brighten that day and stain same day?
You do not need to brighten with the RAD PaintStrip but if you sand, then brightening will help open the pores of the wood. Two light coats applied wet on wet. You can do it in the order you mentioned.
Thank you so much!
Good afternoon,
I have a 1000 sq ft deck with a Wolman solid color stain over cedar decking that peels and cracks every year. I would like to strip off all of the stain and try using a penetrating type of stain to eliminate future peeling and make maintenance easier in the future.
What do you suggest for prep and stain? I started sanding, but gave up on that quickly with the size of the deck and difficulty getting into the space between deck boards.
See here to strip a solid stain: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-paintstrip-paint-solid-stain-stripping-gel.html
Good Morning. I used the solid Desert Taupe on my deck about 4 years ago. My deck was in really rough shape at the time. I need to do another coat this year due to some chipping and overall maintenance. Pics attached.
1. Pressure wash with the Cleaner.
2. Best to pressure wash this.
3. 6-12 hours.
Thank you, pressure wash did the trick.
One more question, for a touch up coat should I use a 1/2 or 3/8 nap roller?
Either.
Hi – I purchased the solid stain, cleaner, brightener (and additives). We plan to use the paint sprayer and need to know what spray tip size is recommended to apply the solid stain? Thank you.
FYI, the additves only work in the Stripper, not the Cleaner. As for tip, any fan tip should work. 013 – 105 should work.
I need to stain/treat my new locust covered porch floor. It has been installed for nearly a year. I sanded once in the fall but didn’t have good staining weather. I will sand again this spring. Should I be following recommendations same as the exotic hardwoods for this locust or any other specific tricks? Can brightening take some of the natural color variation away and if so is brightening absolutely necessary?
(First photo is floor after rain, second is floor when dry. Both photos from several months ago)
Clean and brighten for rep, do not sand. You want the wood as porous as possible.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-package-300.htm
You need to use the prep products for proper adhesion and prep. The stain brings back and enhances the color that is internal to your wood.
I don’t /have/ to sand but felt like the surface needed it a bit, and was hoping it would also be a good step for some water stains that have developed over the winter.
I did order the prep package, just was a bit unsure about how necessary it always is based on some of the comments about rough sawn wood. (Mine isn’t rough but also wasn’t quite milled to a ‘store bought’ finish either) So I’m assuming I still only do one coat per most of the instructions but that ambiguity in the surface of my locust does make me wonder a bit about one versus two coats.
And as I was unable to edit my first post before it went into review, it’s about 120ft2 and I do have a pressure washer. Thanks.
Sanding closes the pores of the wood, reducing stain penetration. We do not suggest it unless needed.
Just one coat for your wood type.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-on-exotic-hardwoods-ipe
I have a cedar deck, about 5 years old, that could soon use its third staining. The first staining was done with RAD stripper followed by RAD brightener followed by Armstrong Clark semi transparant stain (cedar colour). The second staining was done with RAD cleaner followed by RAD brightener follwed by Armstrong Clark semi transparant stain (cedar colour). Once again, I want to use the Armstrong Clark cedar stain. I notice that the overall colour gets a bit darker with each restoration cycle, and I would like to minimize this factor (i.e. would like to keep the colour as light as possible). What are my best options for obtaining this result? Perhaps this time around, at step 1 it might be best to use the stripper instead of the cleaner? Or perhaps I should introduce a light sanding at some point in this cycle? Please advise.
Strip and brighten for prep:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
After applying the Armstrong Clark stain, you might want to try this to keep it looking longer better. It goes on top of the stain once it fully dries and cures:https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-guard-mildew-algae-cleaner.html
Hi there, last year I stained my deck with the amber stain on IPE. I wanted to go to the dark walnut this year, any special steps required?
Strip and brighten for prep: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
Yesterday, I used Restore a deck stripper and Restore a deck brightener on my gate and porch post. Clear vertical grain cedar. installed 15 years ago and last stained with Penofin semitransparent oil based 10 years ago. Followed all Restore a deck instructions carefully. Used a pressure washer. The porch post turned out great but the gate has black blotches and is unsatisfactory. What is your recommendation?
You need to redo the brightener to properly neutralize the stripper as it was not correctly done or had enough time to neutralize the raise of the pH from the stripper and lighten the wood.
I had to replace my deck with some new pressure treated wood. I am using you solid stain in white. I saw that it can be apply to wet wood. Do I need to let the wood dry before I stain or can it be applied right away?
New wood is not the same as damp wood application. New wood needs to weather and be prepped:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood
400 sq ft. Deck 5-7 years old
Pressure treated pine wood
Benjamain moore arborcoat used prior
Could rent pressure washer or sander
You have a solid stain on the wood. Do you want a solid stain again or do you want to remove and go with semi-transparent?
Would like to stick with solid if possible.
Okay, for prep, you remove as much of the peeling old solid stain as possible. Use the RAD Deck Stripper and pressure washing. You do not have to remove all the old stain as the RAD solid stain will cover any of your intact MB solid stain that is not peeling.
Thanks. How much of everything do I need? Also i think the closest to my current deck would be your coastal gray..I currently have cliff side gray from BM..are those similar? Thanks
One Stripper and 3-4 gallons of solid stain for two coats. Sorry but no idea if our gray will match BM’s gray.