We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
Is this available in ontario canada
Cost of shipping?
Price in american dollars?
Can I pick up in michigan if not available in canada?
USA only. You can see shipping costs by adding products to cart and entering your shipping info. Prices are USD. You can pick up in MI.
~243 SQFT to be restored
Most of the deck is pressure treated lumber. The lighter part is 2.5 years old. The rest is ~8 years or older. If the deck was previously stained, it was over 4 years ago, though I cannot detect evidence of previous stain. I do not have ready access to a pressure washer. More details upon request. Appreciate the advice!
For prep, use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener kit:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-package-300.html
For the stain, any color in the semi-transparent line:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-1-gallon.html
I have aged dried larch 3/4 T&G flooring. Does it need to be weathered before applying RAD stain?
Yes and prepped.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood
Hi, I got some unforecast rain after staining. I had semi dark walnut stain, but it looks very light now. Wondering what I should do.
Leave as is until Spring. Lightly clean with water and apply 1 coat then.
I have 800 sf of deck previously stained 3 yrs ago with TWP Semi-solid stain. It is faded/worn in the sunny places but still intact in the shade. There is no peeling or chipping. I want to apply your Solid stain. Do I need to strip or just clean the deck? Also, must I brighten after cleaning or stripping? Finially, how much stain should I buy?
Strip and brighten for prep is your best option. About 8 gallons for 2 coats.
Hi,
Completed RAD steps for new PT railing and posts. Started staining with RAD natural but would like to change the color. I would need to strip the current stain off and brighten before using new stain (Natural to Cedar)?
Also how long before stain is rainproof? I read somewhere it was 12 hours?
Thank you
Yes, strip and brighten if you want to switch. It can take rain in 6-12 hours after applying the stain.
Hi I cleaned and brighten our dock yesterday. This morning, the dry and not yet dried parts look different. That’s understandable. Is it ok the apply the semi transparent stain as it is or will the stain look different because some parts of the dock is still wet?
As long as the darker areas are from being damp only, then it will stain evenly once all wood fully dries.
Hi,
I have this deck which i want to restore (please see attached photographs). I dont know the age of this deck…it was stained almost 5years ago.have couple of question…would appreciate if you could answer:
1. Two light coats applied wet on wet. About 3 gallons.
2. No, never use wood filler on a deck.
3. No third picture.
4. Visit our contest pages:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-prep-stain-contest-2023
The first step is to remove the old coating. You will need our stripper and brightener kit.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
I will be stripping spindles and hand rails on my deck and stairs (floor boards were replaced). The spindles have a lot of old Thompsons stain on them. I bought RAD Wood & Stain Stripper along with RAD Stain Stripper & Thickening Gel and RAD Stain Stripper Booster. Is this all I need to do this? Also, do I mix the 5 gal of water with the stripper AND the gel & booster (all 3 together)? Since it’s going to make 5 gallons I’m getting a lid to put on the bucket – but how long will it last after mixed? I doubt I’ll be able to do it all in one day.
Can you post some pics of what you are stripping?
Yes, you mix all 3 together. It will stay good for months. It cannot freeze.
I have white cedar siding on my home in New England that is about 8 years old. About 5 years ago I applied TWP 1500 (clear/natural), but I am disappointed in the amount of mildew. What product would you recommend? I want to keep it natural looking with no color, but would like to protect the wood.
It must be tinted for UV protection. Clear will gray naturally in months.
Thanks. Is your “Natural Semi Transparent” a color or is it “clear”. I don’t mind it turning gray, just want to reduce the amount of mold/mildew.
Natural is tinted, not clear.
This afternoon I applied 2 coats of Dark Walnut Semi Transparent to half of the deck. However, the weather is suddenly turning “iffy”. Maybe a light shower late tonight. Am I in trouble?
You should be fine.
I’m building a gate with new wood (got weather treated 2x4s and 2x2s a couple weeks ago at the hardware store) to add to a 30-year old deck that we stained with the RAD solid stain a few years ago. I ordered another jug of the same color so that it will match. I’m gonna be honest, this deck shows its age so I’m not concerned about a pristine finish on the gate (because the deck def doesn’t look pristine!), just want the gate to match the deck. What would happen if I just stained it today? What would be bad about it?
Not weathering new wood corectly and not prepping correctly can lead to premature deck stain failure.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood
Thanks for your reply. I read that page earlier today and posted a comment because it didn’t really answer my question. What type of failure is it, and how premature are we talking? I’m weighing costs and benefits of two less than ideal approaches. (Stain it now v. in a few months when I also have a newborn and, realistically, am gonna have basically no bandwidth to do it.)
Most likley you will need to strip/brighten and redo it within 6-12 months if you do not weather and prep correctly.
Ok that is very helpful to know. I’ll find someone to help me out after it is weathered and prepped!
A friend stripped and brightened my deck and steps yesterday. He clearly did a great job and rinsed the deck thoroughly. However, I am not sure that he rinsed the steps. Can I proceed to stain after giving the steps a thorough rinsing.? It has been 24 hours. Thank you.
Yes.
I have a deck with a combination of previously stained and new wood. The stained wood was done with a water based solid stain. I have the RAD Cleaner, Stripper and Brightener, and also have the Espresso Solid Stain. To prepare the new wood (which has aged for about six months), I’m planning to use the Cleaner and Brightener to prepare it. For the previously stained wood, I’m cleaning up any chips of old stain and sanding rough spots. Do I need to use the Cleaner on the previously stained wood, or is the Stripper and Brightener sufficient to prepare for the new stain? Thanks!
The Stripper and Brightener are sufficient.
Thanks for the quick and helpful response!
I have some dark spots in my deck. A clear cedar oil was applied about 10 years ago. The picture attached is after RAD Stripper was applied and power washed. This part of the deck was under pine tree shade for 25 years on the east side of the south facing deck.
deck is pressure treated pine at least 30 years old, whole deck is 30′ x 6′ plus a set of 13 stairs.I do have a pressure washer.
Thank you
That looks like internal stains. It will most likley not come out. Make sure you brighten after the stripper.
Deck: 240 sq Ft. Pine. 4 years old wood.
Project: Strip RAD Light Walnut (two years old), Brighten and apply 2 coats of RAD Dark Walnut.
*** How many gallons of RAD Dark Walnut will be required? ****
2-3 gallons
I am a bit time constrained and need to plan.
About How much time should I allow for Stripping and Brightening?
Thank you.
A couple of hours.
What is the best soap to use to remove dust and dirt from vinyl siding and wood porch before using the clean and brighter kit?
Just pressure wash rinse and or buy a siding cleaner.
I would like some guidance on what to do with my deck! I did purchase last year the following RAD products: stripper/brightener kit, booster additive and thickening gel additive. I have a pressure washer and this is how it looks after I’ve pressure washed it. I’m not sure what kind of stain or what is on here. Will I need to be sanding this all or will the products I bought work for this?
You have a multitude of layers or over-application of old stains. Use the stripper with both additives. Let dwell for 30-45 minutes (keep from drying out) and then pressure wash off. It might not remove all but it should remove most. After you can spot sand if needed to get the rest off.
Thanks, I’m crossing my fingers! Been putting this off for too long! It almost seems like the previous owners used a varnish. This was likely applied in 2018 before we bought it.
I stained my deck boards with RAD 3 steps. Thought I could get by without
doing the railings. The railings have Marine Seal Once clear from last year..
I stained my deck 3 weeks ago. What would happen if some cleaner/brightner was to
get on the stained wood? also since the stain on the deck was applied we had our patio doors replaced. How soon after staining can you clean your deck?
Avoid getting the prep on any areas you are not staining. It could discolor or even remove some of the stain. You can rinse you deck with water to clean 24 hours after the stain dries.
I just stripped and brightened my deck today. Unfortunately, I missed the instruction which said to apply the stripper to a moist deck. I did get alot of the fiber off with a deck brush before brightening. I am assuming there were still be significant fiber when the deck totally dries. Is there anything I can do short of sanding before staining. if I do sand, do I need to re clean and brighten?
Thank you
Send some pics after the wood dries for tips.
Here are some pics.
Buffing the floor is the easiest way to fix this. See this article for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Buffing was not enough. I sanded the deck. Do I need to clean and brighten or since it was stripped and brightened earlier this week, can i just rinse with water and apply the stain after 4 hours?
If you power sanded, then yes, you should clean and brighten for final prep.
Hello,
I recently purchased RAD Cleaner, Brightener, and Solid stain for my deck. I was under the impression that I did not need to strip the stain that is currently on my deck, but now I am having second thoughts and would like to get your opinion.
Can you provide input on how critical it is to use a stain stripper for my new stain application? I am only concerned about how much of a difference for this will make for the new stain to adhere to my deck.
Thanks,
Greg
We would strip and brighten this deck. The AC is oil-based and the RAD Solid is water based. You will have better adhesion if the majority of the AC is removed. Does not need to be 100% since you are covering with the solid stain.
Great, thank you for the quick response!
Approx 467 square foot deck
Probably treated wood
Age of wood = 23 years
Previously stained with Flood Pro Series Solid Color 100% Acrylic Stain – FLD820
Last stained in 2015
I don’t own a pressure washer but can rent one if necessary
I would like to know which products and how much of each that you recommend.
Thanks!
Easiest would be to use the RAD Solid Stain. For prep, use the RAD Stripper and pressure washing. You do not need to fully remove the current solid stain, just the loose and peeling stain. You can then cover the intact solid stain with the RAD Solid Stain. About 4-5 gallons for the 2 coats.
Roughly 250 sq foot deck to be restored. Unknown wood. I believe prior stain was Cabot Solid stain based on old can from previous owners. Unknown the last time deck was stained. I do have access to a pressure washer. Due to the prior condition of the deck I felt the need to sand it down with 40 grit. The idea was to remove the solid stain and restain with a semi-transparent. I think I did a pretty good job getting most of the old stain removed but have attached pictures for your judgement. The real problem areas are the ballisters and the outer base of the deck. It’s extremely difficult to get the sander into those spots to remove the old stain. Would you suggest the rad paint stripper for the the ballisters and outer base? What would you suggest for next steps for the rest of the deck?
Use the RAD Paint Strip for removing the old stain that has not been removed. You can spot apply as needed. Pressure wash off. Brighten all wood when done.
Thanks so much for the quick response. Great to know I can spot treat as needed. A couple of follow up questions. Does the wood need to be completely dry to apply the Rad paint stripper? How long after the paint stripper do I need to let deck dry before applying stain? Finally, If I wanted to sand the horizontal part of deck down again with 80 grit would I do it before brightening?
Wood can be dry or damp to apply. Sand prior to brightener. See here about applying the stain:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood
Hi. I completed all the prep and applied the brightener this afternoon. Was all set to stain tomorrow but forecast changed and now it looks like rain. I would not be able to let dry for 12 hours before the rain is scheduled to arrive. After Monday it looks clear for the rest of the week. Do I need to clean and brighten again or can I just apply the stain to damp wood Tuesday. Thanks!
No need to redo the prep after rain.
Prep with the RAD Cleaner and Brightener kits and then stain with the RAD in a semi-transparent stain for the floors. Use the RAD White solid stain for the rails.
I have an old large deck. Finished stripping and brightening. The section I did a few weeks ago I red did with the 2 steps. Now that section looks worse than before I went over it. Looking at other comments it must of oxidized between striping and brightening .. what do I go know ? Sand it?
Sure you can do this.
My 250 sq Ft pine deck was stained 2 years ago with the Restore a Deck Light Walnut stain. The deck is definitely in need of re-staining.
I plan to use Dark Walnut stain. So the steps would be 1. Clean 2. Brighten 3. Stain. Is that correct?
Would a second coat be appropriate, as well.?
Strip and brighten is the proper prep when switching.
I have a one year old ipe deck that has not been stained or cleaned. Planning to let it weather rather than stain so i don’t have to do so much maintenance.
Two questions:
1) with what and how often should i clean it
2) will it decrease the life of the deck to care for it this way rather than staining
thanks for your help!
1. Annually.
2. Hard to say but since IPE is so dense, it is probably okay. It would be an issue with softer woods like cedar or pine to not stain them
thank you. what should i use to clean?
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Cleaner-Only.html
since i won’t be staining, any need to apply brightner after cleaning?
You can skip it here.
My 250 sq Ft pine deck was stained 2 years ago with the Restore a Deck Light Walnut stain. The wood is 4 years old. The deck is definitely in need of re-staining. I need a stain that will last longer. Should I go with the solid stain?
Yes, you can do this.
How often does the solid normally need to be restained.
On a deck floors, every 2-3 years is normal. Nothing will last longer.
My thinking is to go with Dark Walnut. Can I just Clean and Brighten first or do I have to Strip the old Light Walnut? Thank you.
Strip and brighten.
I have solid stain on my deck and railings. Should I just use the cleaner to prep for applying SuperDeck Exterior Deck & Dock elastomeric Coating? I saw that the stripper doesn’t remove solid stains so can I just skip that and use the cleaner? Is there anything else I should do to prepare for the new stain? The last time it was stained was probably at least 7 years ago with probably home Depot or Lowe’s stain. I have access to a power washer.
Thanks
Start by not using the SuperDeck. It is a very poor product that peels. Read the consumer reviews. On their own product page, you will see the poor reviews and comments. As for prep, it depends on the stain brand and type you end up using. If going with something opaque, use the RAD Stripper to remove as much as possible of the old stain. You can then cover the intact stain with a solid stain like our RAD Solid Stains.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-solid-stain-1-gallon.html
We stripped the coating off of the floor only on our front porch decks on a triplex and left the coating on the ballisters/rails because it is too hard to remove. We also put a new cap on the top of the rails. From the photo below you can see the difference between the floor and the rails. We are going to use RAD stain on the floor. I am trying to decide what color would blend with the rails. I am thinking either cedar in the semi transparent or cypress in the solid. Can you tell me which you think would be a better match for the existing rail color, or if you have a better suggestion for color? Thanks!
It does not have to match. See here: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/two-toned-decks-with-restore-a-deck-wood-stains
I was wondering if the RAD “natural” color semi-transparent stain has a color to it like the others or if it is just more transparent with no color to allow the natural color to show?
Natural is tinted, not Clear. It must have a tint for UV protection from graying.
We just removed a solid coating from three front porch decks on a triplex in Golden Colorado. I believe the original wood may be redwood, build in the 1980s. They are about 100 sf each so 300 sf total. We are just refinishing the horizontal surfaces. I have included a photo after we removed the solid coating by sanding.
These decks are the only entrance to the home and on the south side, so they get lots of sun and foot traffic. It is a big pain every time they need to be redone due being the only entrance to the homes, so we want whichever product will be the most durable and last the longest.
I have two questions:
1, Since they were just sanded, do we still need to clean and brighten the wood before applying the stain?
2.Which would be more durable – the semi-transparent or solid stain?
1. Yes, that is correct.
2. They will wear at the same rate so either way, you will need to recoat every 2-3 years.
Can I apply a second coat the day after the first or does it have to be within one hour?
Needs to be wet on wet, not wet on dry.
I built a cedar deck 3 years ago that has not been stained or treated. It is 100 sq. feet. What/how much do you recommend?
One gallon of stain for the 100 Sq feet as long as you measured correctly and added in all stairs, railings, flooring, etc. For prep, one Cleaner and one Brightener.
We have a very small deck, such that the supplies in a stripper and brightener pack should cover three different applications. I want to know how many years the contents should stay good for. Will I be able to use them in two years’ and four years’ time? Can the same be said for the additives that are supposed to boost the effectiveness of the stripper?
The powders (before mixed with water) will last many years when in powder form. The additives have a shelf life of 1-2 years.
Sorry….I’m want a BLACK solid stain…is there something I can add to espresso or another color to get black?
Sorry but no, we do not have black and we cannot darken our current colors to black.
I have started staining my deck with your semi transparent stain and it looks gorgeous! Curious though why you reccomend NOT applying a second coat if the deck has been power sanded?
Sanding reduces the stain’s penetration into the wood so applying 2 coats could create issues of not fully soaking into the wood.
Can you spray on the solid stain color? It seems awfully thick.
With an airless sprayer you can. Not a pump sprayer.
Your test spot absorbed well so, yes. Only 1 coat. Be careful of hot sun issues and overlaps.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-hot-sun-application
Do not apply to a wet composite decking. Please send some pics when done.
I cleaned my ipe deck with a mix of oxy clean and dish soap using a pressure washer. I then applied the restore a deck brightener and let the deck dry. I applied a restore a deck light walnut semitransparent stain and it came out blotchy with darker areas where my application pad overlapped previously stained areas. How can I get a more consistent finish? Apply a second coat? Just let it weather? Strip and reapply? Thanks.
Remove and start over using the RAD Stripper and Brightener Kits with both stripper additives. You cannot add more once the stain has cured as it will not take.
How do I avoid this from happening again?
Apply evenly and move quickly. Damp wood application helps as well:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood
Avoid hot sun application as well: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-hot-sun-application
Hi,
I’m in the process of trying to restore my deck, which was likely never prepped/stained properly. The deck pre-dates my time in the house, so it’s at least 10+ years old. The surface is pine 2×6 boards (not actual deck boards) and I’m guessing whoever originally build the deck did not properly prep/stain the surface. A Behr solid water based stain was used and it was likely applied way too thick.
I noticed it wasn’t properly adhered to the wood in several places, so I got to work on trying to strip the deck. I’ve sanded it down, and it’s MOSTLY free of old stain, however, there still are cracks/grooves many of the boards holding a little bit of stain.
I just stumbled upon the restore-a-deck product line and I think it seems like the right set of products to meet my needs and properly restore this deck. My question is, should I use the cleaner or the stripper as step 1? Like I said (and hopefully the pictures illustrate) the deck is MOSTLY bare at this point, and I’m a little concerned about overdoing it with a stripper if the deck is already mostly bare. Should I opt for just cleaning, brighting and staining?
Thank you,
What type of stain are you shooting for? Solid or semi-transparent? Are your removing the solid stain from the verticals?
I’d prefer to use a semi-transparent if I can get away with it. And the verticals are in good enough shape that I’m just going to leave those alone.
You have to rove the rest of the solid stain from the floors if you want to use the semi-transparent. This means more sanding or using the RAD Paint Strip. It also looks like you sanded too smooth. This can result inability to soak into the wood grain properly. What grit did you use?
80 grit
Hi!
I have a large 15+ year-old cedar deck. I power-washed, then used RAD stripper, then brightner. I then sanded it. It’s basically down to the bare wood. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to stain it yet. It’s been about 4 weeks since all the prep work. What’s the recommendation at this point? Can I do a quick powerwash, dry then stain? I have the RAD SemiTransparent in light walnut ready to go, just wondering if I need to re-brighten again. Thanks!
Prep with the Brightener and a light pressure wash.
Thank you!
I used the stripper and brightener then got sick so it’s been a couple of weeks should I brighten again?
Also I need a paint or solid stain for another project, what brand is best?
Yes, redo the brightener. Use this for a solid stain: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-solid-stain-1-gallon.html
I have begun stripping my 3 year old deck that had Behr semi transparent stain that I don’t like the color of. I’ve applied the rad stripper and kept it wet for approximately 30 minutes and the pressure washer still struggled to remove. Is this just how it goes? Any other suggestions? It’s pressure treated pine. Thanks
Post some pictures.
I’m trying to find this link to upload photos. I’m not seeing it.
It is a paper clip in the bottom right of the comment box.
See pic.
I just spent 6 days restoring a small deck, the floor/decking of a balcony and putting the 2nd coat of stain on a large deck I restored a year ago. All are about 25 yrs old. Restore-a-Deck is the best! Throughout the years we’ve used many different products on these decks–nothing compares to RAD! The 3-step process (following RAD’s instructions) is a lot of work–but so very worth it! Our decks look like new. I’m so glad that in doing research on restoring old wood decks I came upon Restore-a-Deck!
Thank you for such terrific products and your customer service is excellent!
My next project–restoring a 20 yr. old wood fence. I need to make a few repairs (small). I’ll be using PC Woody epoxy. I did read that it is stainable–to a point. Do you think RAD’s dark walnut stain will cover it–at least somewhat?
Before I start the fence project I have to let the new posts age a while, but then you’ll hear from me with questions concerning that project. Thanks for that advice in advance!
Susan
Hello,
You may want to enter our contest?
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-prep-stain-contest-2023
Fillers are not stainable with exterior wood stains. It will not blend so we never suggest to use them.
We just stained our deck for the 2nd time in 5 years with your semi/transparent stain. Restore-A-Deck makes the absolute best deck stains! We waited a few days before we moved the furniture back onto the deck & that was fine. My husband laid a rubber backed doormat down on it & a week later when I moved it I realized that it had made an imprint on the deck with a little bit of white water marks. I want to repair this. Can I lightly sand the area to clean it up & apply a light coat if the stain? It’s only a small area about 15” x 20”.
It is very hard to spot sand and then stain to blend with the rest of the deck. You can try but it will probably stand out when done.
Just stained my deck and love it, When I put a second coat on next year, so i have to clean and bleach or can i just put on a second coat?
You always have to prep when recoating. Never use bleach as prep.
After stripping and brightening my deck, due to weather, it might be 14 days before I can stain. Should I use the brightner again?
If longer than 14 days, then yes.
I have a house purchased in ’21, built in ’09, with 459 sq ft of pressure treated wood deck floor that needs to be refinished. I believe the last product used on it was Valspar SOLID Exterior Stain & Sealer, with an Olympic solid stain under it – this based on old stain found on property – both tinted in Olympic Rusted Ore color. I have access to a pressure washer.
We have experimented with pressure washing and stain remover as seen in pics. I plan to refinish the deck flooring only since the pickets and rails are in good shape, so the finish needs to be as close to or coordinate with the Olympic Rusted Ore.
What is the simplest way to refinish this cracked and peeling deck and make it as maintenance free as possible in the future? What products do you recommend and how much of each?
(deck is not covered in a very wet climate with intense sun in summer and freezing winters)
There are a few boards that were replaced a year ago that have nothing on them
Since you already have a solid stain it is easiest to recoat with the Restore A Deck Solid Stain. Pressure wash with the RAD Stain Stripper to remove any peeling stain. You can then cover the intact stain with the RAD Solid Stain. About 4-5 gallons for the 2 coats.
Thank you. Is that the regular RAD Stain Stripper or the RAD Paint and Stain Stripper?
Regular RAD Stain Stripper. You do not have to remove all the old solid stain, just what is peeling or loose.
Thank you. Just reconfirming that I do not need the brightener because the majority of the previous solid stain will be intact after using the RAD stain stripper?
What RAD solid stain best matches Olympic Rusted Ore? Or are samples available? (need to know since I am not doing the spindles)
No, you do not have to brighten here. Samples are here:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-solid-stain-sample.html
What combo of stripper or cleaner system would you recommend for removing 2 year old restore a deck semi transparent stain ? Thank you
Strip and brighten for a uniform look when done. Use the Booster and Gel with the stripper while pressure washing. No need for the cleaner.
Thank you
Sorry forgot to ask I have an un opened 2.5 gallon container of RAD semi transparent stain that is 2 years old do you think it is still ok to use?
It should be as long as it has not frozen. Make sure to shake well for 2-3 minutes as pigment can settle.