We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
I used Restore A Deck semi transparent stain for my deck a couple of years ago, and was really happy with the results. Though the stain is still in pretty good shape, there’s enough fading/wear that I know it’s time to put a new coat of stain on my deck. I wanted to know what prep steps are recommended, as I plan to use the same Restore A Deck semi transparent cedar stain. Do I need to strip, or can I simply clean and/or brighten before applying another coat of stain?
Please reply back in comments with a picture of current condition.
Sure thing – attached an image from the day the stain was put down originally, and two images I just took of different locations of the deck (one looks lighter because it’s currently in sun vs. shade in the other) so that you can compare the wear
Normally, we would suggest using the Cleaner and Brightener kit for prep and then applying one coat of the RAD stain in the same color, but since you have uneven fading (roof), it may make more sense to strip and brighten for prep. That way, the stain looks even when reapplied.
Hello!
I used the 3 steps in the autumn (4 months ago) to clean, brighten and stain my very old and weathered deck.
The stain is a little uneven on the deck boards and I have extra stain left over… could I clean, brighten and re-coat when it’s warmed up in the spring?
Also what do you think recommend for annual maintenance after staining? Thanks!
Just use the cleaner at about 2-3 oz per gallon of water. No need to brighten it. The goal is to lightly remove any dirt, etc., then you can apply one light coat of the stain.
Have a 15 yr old IPE dock that I just redid part of. The beautiful new IPE has us wanting to go back to lighter stain. Old part of the dock has restore-a-deck semi transparent in dark walnut applied two years ago. Can I use your stripper, cleaner and brightener then go with light walnut? Worried about going from dark to light stain. And also if it will be obvious where new wood is vs old? Old wood was sanded 4 years ago but quite weathered.
Yes, you can strip and brighen for prep and then switch colors. The new wood always stains slightly lighter in color the first time it is stained as it is less absorbent. When you redo it in the future, it will even out.
Do I need to use the cleaner too? Or can I strip–>brighten–>stain?
No need for cleaner if using the stripper. Brighten after.
I have used your products in the past and they are excellent!
I have a new project and would appreciate your advice. Here’s the project info:
-Square Footage of Area to be Restored: 360 sq. Ft.
-Type of wood: pressure treated pine
-Approximate Age of Wood: 23 years
-Previous Stain Brand Used and Type: Flood Pro Series, Solid Stain, Water-Based, color “Mink”
-The last time wood was stained: 2019
-Wood Type to be Stained: Deck, pressure treated pine
-Access to a pressure washer: yes
Can I apply Restore-A-Deck solid stain Espresso) over the existing stain if I clean, brighten, and apply 2 coats?
Strip, brighten, and sand off (if needed) any loose Flood solid stain. You can then apply our solid stain over the intact Flood Solid stain. The point is to remove all that is loose or peeling first.
Thank you!
Hello, I am looking for your input to restore this backyard deck.Looking ideally for a more brownish semi transparent stain if possible. Ideally you can give me a full package? Details below.
What you have is a solid opaque stain, not semi-transparent. Your options are to use another solid opaque stain over the top of what you have after prep or remove all and use a true semi-transparent stain. Removing all will be challenging and will need our heavy RAD PaintStrip and possibly sanding.
OK, will go with the solid stain then. Means restore/strip, re-stain? Do you think one coat is sufficient?
You strip off what is loose or peeling and then you can cover over the current intact stain that is not peeling. It will also remove all the dirt and mildew. You will need 2 coats of our solid stain.
I used your stripper and brightener and then sanded the deck.
Do you think it’s good enough for your semi transparent stain or would your rather recommend to use your solid stain anyway?
Thanks a lot!
You will need the solid stain as you still have some of the old solid stain coating on the wood.
Thanks so much, great product, great service!
You are welcome!
Our deck has a slimy green film (algae?) on it. It’s been several years since we’ve done the cleaning and brightening and it’s due. Is there a temperature below which you would recommend NOT treating? We are currently in the mid-40’s (Fahrenheit) and will be cooling as the week goes on. Thanks.
It should be above 50. Maybe wait until Spring to prep and stain. It will be okay to wait.
I have a covered deck that is ( years old. It was stained as soon as it was installed using RAD transparent stain but it didn’t take well so this month I used the RAD stripper and brighter to clean and restained using the same transparent color but it needs a second color because it looks faded in some areas. I planning on staining again in march and wanted to know if I just use the cleaner and brighter or will I have to use the stripper. I’m using the same transparent color.
Clean and brighten for prep. The goal would be to just lightly clean off any dirt.
Is the solid stain Espresso color a very dark brown or is it essentially black?
Very dark brown.
What is the best applicator option for staining square lattice? Would a pump sprayer work? Can it be applied with an airless Greco sprayer?
You can use a pump sprayer or airless sprayer. Back brush to catch any drips or runs.
Forgot to add I had to replace a number of boards with pressure treated white pine. Should I just wait until spring to do it all at once or what steps should I take?
Replacee the wood now and then prep and stain in Spring.
So since it’s already stripped and brightened, does that mean in the spring I need to
In that order?
Correct.
About 10-12 Gallons for 2 coats applied wet on wet.
Hello! I just completed my deck project, some of which will need to be revisited in 6 months.
Due to the condition of some of the wood, I needed to get 7 boards replaced, but didn’t want to wait to strip/brighten/stain the rest, so I have a partially finished deck. The new boards are spread out and are not all together.
After the new wood seasons over the next 5-6 months, I would like to go back and complete those boards to be stained like the rest.
From my reading your responses to other comments regarding new wood, it sounds like I will need to clean and brighten those new boards first before staining.
My question is, do I need to protect the boards I’ve already stained? (E.g. Covering them or being careful not to splash them too much?) Or, should I go ahead and also clean/brighten the boards I just stained, then put a maintenance coat on them at the same time I put the one-coat stain on the new boards.
I’ve provided a picture of the partially finished deck to give you an idea of what I’ll be working with next April/May.
Thanks!
You cannot get the prep on the stained boards unless you plan or recoating them.
Given that it will only be 6 months, is it OK to recoat that soon? (If I go ahead and clean and bleach all the boards.) Thanks!
You can. Note that no matter what, the new boards will be lighter in color since they are less absorbent.
Hi,
I need advice about staining a fence.
What are your questions?
Dear RAD folks,
I finished the three-step process my 19-year-old deck this past weekend after first using your products four years ago. I have a couple of questions about the job, upkeep, and re-staining my fence:
– We had our first significant rain since the job last night, and the photo shows the difference between water standing on edge boards (which received extra coats) and interior boards (which got 2 coats). Is this a problem and should I apply an additional coat to the less “beady” horizontal surfaces?
-Is it possible to do a light, water-only cleaning and an annual re-stain / “refresh” of the deck rather than the full three-step process? If not, what do y’all advise for routine upkeep?
-The fence was last stained (professionally) about 12 years ago. Would it be best to clean-brighten-stain or strip-brighten-stain? This will probably wait till next year either way.
-Most of the fence is shadow-box with smaller stretches of open pickets. Do you have suggestions on effective cleaning and staining of the shadow-box panels? I plan to apply the same dark walnut semi-transparent stain but with a pump sprayer.
Thanks for your help and for providing great products!
1. No, it is correct.
2. No, you always have to the full steps when recoating.
3. You have to strip/remove old coatings when switching stain brands.
4. Same steps as doing the deck. If spraying the stain, make sure to back brush to ensure an even application
Can you comment on the environmentally friendly nature of your cleaning and staining products? I am chemically sensitive and trying to find the most non-toxic alternative that will still do a quality job and be easy to maintain. A SDS or TDS link would be appreciated. Also, if you go with your semi-transparent stain, can it be reapplied when the time comes without stripping?
You can clean and reapply as needed. Attached SDS sheets.
I have a 7 year old pressure treated deck that previously had SIKKENS RUBBOL STAIN.I toke it apart board by board and ran it thru a 12 in planer to remove the stain.After putting it back together I sanded it down with 40 grit sanding disc.Can I skipped the cleaner and brighter and just apply the semi transparent stain?
No, the prep cleaner and brightener removes sand dust and opens the wood grain so the stain will absorb deeper into the wood. Only 1 coat of the stain.
I have around 20 year old 400 square foot pressure treated deck. I used oil based Cabot semi transparent stain first and then switched to water based Behr premium semi transparent stain. Many years of staining, but some of the stain started peeling off. I would like to remove all the stain and bring it back to the natural color of the wood to match the cedar shake siding. I was thinking about the rad paint strip to remove all the stain, but maybe the rad stain stripper with additives will do the job. I’m leaning toward the paint strip because of the Behr stain and also I wouldn’t have to scrub the deck with a brightener. Looking for the easiest solution. Any help would be appreciated.
It looks opaque like a solid stain so you would need the RAD PaintStrip to remove it.
I thought of trying to do this in October, but noticed it works best between 60 to 80 degrees. If I applied RAD PaintStrip during the day when it’s in the 60s would it be ok overnight when temperatures get down to the low 40s? Or should I wait until it’s warmer in the spring?
Warmer works better. In the meantime, we do have a small bottle to test to make sure all works well:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-paint-solid-stain-stripper-sample-size.html
I have a 500 square foot deck that is teak or similar. It has been 2 years since it was stained or treated actually with a teak oil. Is it ok to use your stripper and brightener on this type of wood? In the past I just used a cleaner like mean green and pressure washer before oiling.
Yes, use the Stripper and Brightener for the prep.
I have a new, unstained Ice 450 sf wood deck made of the Bison tile system. I mistakenly purchased the PREP and so I am now ordering the cleaner. I have on hand the Deckwise Ice oil. I plan to do the CLEANER and BRIGHTNER, then the Ice oil. Annually, I plan to re-apply the Ipe oil. Which of your products will I need to use in the future prior to re-applying the oil? If I do not need the Prep in future, then I will return it.
Whenever you recoat, you clean and brighten for prep.
My floor to back deck was sealed last yr. Want to stain and seal again now. It needs it! It doesn’t look like it has any seal on it now. Do I need to strip the wood before cleaning and staining?
Also put on new railing on back deck and new wood front deck this July of 2024. Can I wait till next yr to address doing these?
Just do both next Spring. It will be easier. As for how to prep, what sealer was used prior and pictures of the current condition would help. You can post them in the comments.
We have 600 sf deck area to be restored.
Use our Cleaner and then pressure wash all wood. Brightner when done. Apply the Restore A Deck Solid Stain after.
Would a Semi-Transparent stain work as well? Also How much stain will we need for this application
You can only use a semi-transparent if you remove the solid stain 100% from all spots.
I want to enter the contest today 9/28 because your site says enter by September 30th. But upon reading further it says deadline to enter is 9/20. Hmm… Biggest font and bold statement that jumps out to me is enter by September 30th which is why I waited until 9/28 to enter. See attachments. Id really like to enter the contest. Can I?
Yes.
Thanks. Tried resizing phone photos with an app. I’ll try again. 🤞. If you don’t mind how will I know if I’m entered into the contest?
I have an 800sqr foot deck that had Behr Deckover applied about four years ago. Significant peeling has led me to re-do the deck. It is pine (several boards recently replaced) I have mechanically and with a pressure washer chipped off most of the deckover but as you can see from the pics there is a lot left. I was planning on using a solid stain (not deckover) can I just feather the rest of the deckover and paint over it or do I have to remove every little bit of the deckover before staining? Also, if I do need to strip it, will the restore-a-deck stripper work on Deckover? Thanks for your help.
Sorry but no. You must remove all of the Deckover before using a solid stain. Deckover cannot be stripped.
Can restore a deck be used on fences?
Yes.
After brightening my deck, rinsing it thoroughly (I thought – no suds and rinsed for a long time), and then staining with light walnut some of the boards have a white powdery look to them, which I assume is brightener that was not rinsed enough. Do I need to start over?
Add some pics.
Here you go. Weathered green treated pine stripped of weathered and peeling solid deck paint using Rad Paint and Solid Paint Stripper, sanded (power wahing raised grain) brightened with RAD brightener, stained with light walnut Rad semi-transparent stain.
I am not sure what that is, but it is not from the stain or lack of brightening. Does it wipe off with water? Trying to see if it is on top of the stain or under it.
Deck is rustic, green treated pine.
I am restoring a 12 year old deck with aging cedar decking. I used Penofin semi solid stain previously. Yesterday, I used the RAD stripper which worked VERY well. The wood is now clean, light colored, and free of stain. I plan to apply Solid stain in Coastal Gray. Do I need to use the Brightener? I did not order it. Also, I may not have enough stain after measuring to do the two coats. Can I apply the second coat a week later after receiving more stain in the mail?
Yes, you should neutralize after using the stripper. You can apply the second coat a week later but make sure the wood is clean and dry.
I previously had Sikkens Solid Rubbol Exterior Wood Finish on my deck .I sanded it off with 40 grit paper.I’m down to bear wood can I use your product on my PT Deck now thats its clean?
Clean and brighten for final prep and you are okay to stain.
Hello,
My deck is 520 square feet, rail is 213 sq feet (32″x80′)
Not sure of the wood type
Can’t tell if the previous stain is semi or solid – can you tell from the photos?
I have a 3000 psi pressure washer
Should I use RAD or the regular stripper?
How much stripper and brightener should I get?
Do you recommend spraying or rolling/brushing stripper and brightener?
Thank you!
It looks to be a filming semi-solid stain. The RAD PaintStrip is most likley your best option, especially in the shaded areas since it looks “thicker”. You could try a combo of the Regular Deck Stain Stripper (with both additives) on the weathered areas and then the PainStrip in the shaded area. Brighten all when done.
Do you have pics of the railings? Verticals are the hardest to strip, so you may want to try a two-toned deck:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/two-toned-decks-with-restore-a-deck-wood-stains
OK, so I will go with the RAD paint strip. Attached is a pic of the rail…I was able to get 95%+ of the stain off with the pressure washer. I’m thinking of brushing the RAD onto the rails for the tough spots, and spraying the decking. Thoughts?
If you are getting most off the pressure washing, then we would suggest the regular deck stain stripper with both additives:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
You would have to airless spray the RAD PaintStrip. Always test spot when using the RAD PaintStrip:
Test Patch:
Before general use, test on a small area to determine compatibility, required dwell time, and coverage for desired results. For an estimated 5 or less coats, scrape a section of the area with a stripping tool after one hour of dwell time. If not easily down to wood after one hour, leave on longer and test again hourly.
Thank you very much, I appreciate all of your guidance.
One last question – I read that the brightener is not used after the RAD PaintStrip. So just a good rinsing before stain?
You do not have to brighten after the RAD PaintStrip but it does not hurt to.
Sorry if this is a repeat, but I do not see my reply here.
I think I will go with RAD all around for the railing and the deck just to be sure. I was able to get most of the stain off the railing with just a pressure washer, so perhaps I will brush on the RAD on the tough spots for the rail and spray the decking. Also thinking I should get the thickener for the rails. Do you agree with this approach?
Thanks!
Finished prepping for solid stain. Thought it was a one coat application; however, directions on bottle says two. I will order more How long may I wait to apply second coat. Ok to wait a week for second coat?
If ok what prep before second coat?
Thanks again!
Best to do both coats back to back, as soon as the first coat dries in 1-2 hours. Much easier as well.
I have a Chapin 2 Gallon metal sprayer. Can I use or do I need to buy a plastic sprayer. Does the RAD Stripper and additives react negatively with the metal.
You can use your metail sprayer.
I only need about 2-3 gal of RAD stripper and additives. Can The RAD Stripper and additives be proportioned and the remainder saved for future use.
Yes, just use about half the powder in the bag and mix with 2-3 gallons of water.
I am interested in a material estimate for the following deck. Most if it is treated southern pine, the post are cedar. Last stained with TWP 100 about 4 years ago. 986 sq ft of horizontal surface and 639 sq ft of vert surface. I will be using your water based semitransparent stain this time. I need stripper, brightener, and stain.
2 of these kits:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
12-15 Gallons of the stain for the 2 coats applied wet on wet.
Please advise on this project. 220 square feet —15 year old pressure treated deck – stained and sealed 6 times with a variety of transparent products. – last time oil based 2 years ago – yes we have a Power washer. Last time it became a very ugly uneven dark color.
Strip and brighten for prep but be careful of the screens and this can be messy. Take note that the new wood needs to weather:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood
The new wood will 4 months old when we work in this. Which exact products would you suggest and how much of each. Thanks
One stripper/brightener kit:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
About 2 gallons of the semi-transparent stain for the 2 coats applied wet on wet:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-1-gallon.html
I think the product is good, but the site is incredibly difficult to use, unless you have all the time in the world on your hands to filter through tons of data. How do I retreat a deck after one year. The Product is the water soluble stain.
I’m not sure where you are coming from, as we get rave reviews on our site and its ease of use to purchase, find answers, and ask questions. As for prep before reocating, use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener.
I’m about to refinish my deck and I’m wondering what combination and quantity of your products I should be using.
Thank you.
Strip and brighten for prep. One kit:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
You may one or both additives for the stripper but we would need to see pics for advice on that. Post in comments.
For the stain, about 3-4 gallons.
Deck Pic attached. 😉
It will be easier to strip if you use both additives.
So the stripper AND brightener?
With both stripper additives. Booster and Gel.
I have three heavy objects on my deck, on casters, that I cannot move off the deck. The deck contains 30 board rows to clean and stain. The objects can be moved to 8 board rows prior to staining.
How should I apply the stain on the deck taking in account the heavy objects on the 8 board rows?
Thanks
The casters will leave “dents” in the wood when you roll them around. This will leave unsightly marks on the wood when stained. It would be better to pickup the objects to move them around.
Thanks for responding.
Should I wait for the second wet on wet to dry before carrying the objects, and if so, how long?
Thanks
Yes. 12 hours should be okay.
I used the stripper and brightener to prepare an outdoor wood bench. I read on your website that old weathered wood may be lightly sanded after stripping and brightening if furring occurs. What is the final sanding grit to be used before applying the Restore-A-Deck stain? Twebste that old weathered wood may be lightly sanded after strippurs. What is the final sanding grit to be used before applying the stain
60-80 grit.
Can RAD Stripper, Cleaner and Brightener products remain effective, not weaken when mixed and used over the course of a week or more?
Stripper and Brightener, yes. The Cleaner only remains active for a couple of hours after adding water.
Good Morning…
I have a somewhat unusual configuration. I have a long stairway from my house down to a lakeshore. It is 3 feet wide and 87 feet long with 25 steps going down. It has railings on both side consisting a vertical 2 x 6 with a horizontal 2 x 4 on top. There are 3.5′ tall 1 x 1 balusters for the entire length. Approximately 730 balusters total. It is pressure treated wood of unknown type, probably pine. It is at least 14 years old since that is how long I have owned the house. For the purposes of this post I would estimate 15-20 years old.
I have done the following calculations for square footage.
Decking and stair risers~ 278 sq ft
Balusters~ 109 sq ft
Railings~ 130 sq ft
Total~517 sq ft
Now, lets talk condition. I have regularly replaced boards over the years. I have also added a replacement section when we built a patio. There are several types of stain. One section was done with a Sikkens oil based stain (awful stuff). Another has no stain (the new section added 1 year ago). The remainder was done with Permachink Ultra 3 when we stained the house in 2018. I have stripped most of it off using a Valspar stripper. Still working on it. The Valspar has done an OK job but some areas are better than others. The wood is also getting a little “fuzzy” from the pressure washer. I may need to sand a little.
I am interested in opinions of what to do next. I plan to use the RAD Natural stain. I’d prefer darker but Natural was the wife’s choice. I am not opposed to doing the full RAD strip and brighten if it might provide a more consistent look.
Based on the dimensions above and current wood condition, what process and materials would you recommend? Quantities?
Thank you
After removing the rest of the Sikkens, clean and brighten the wood. One kit will work. As for the stain, 5 gallons should be enough. You only need on coat on the verticals but you should do the 2 coats wet on wet for the flooring.
Hi! So, I’m curious. I just completely, painstakingly scraped all the white paint off of my deck. There were about 3 layers and it took me nearly a month to do. (I know, I know, in hindsight I probably should have just replaced the wood)
Anyway, I purchased TWP Low VOC semi-solid Stain (I’m in Illinois, so I had to get low VOC).
I was about to stain it tomorrow now that all the prep is finished, but I just realized that someone mentioned I should wash and brighten. However, my deck is down to the bare wood and it’s been scraped and sanded, there’s nothing left on top of the wood.
Should I still wash and brighten or is it not necessary?
Thanks!
Erin
Yes, it is suggested to clean and brighten after sanding to “open” up the wood grain so the new coating can penetrate deeper.
Restore-A-Deck products are outstanding! Your 3-step process is the only way to bring an old deck back to life. I first used your products 2 yrs. ago when I restored our 25 yr. old deck. Last year I did a smaller deck and a balcony. All look great! A lot of work–but so worth it.
My next project is to strip, brighten & stain our fence. It’s a shadow box style, 80 ft.(X2 for both sides) 6 ft high. So just under 1,000 sq. ft.. It’s pine and has not been stained in many years (last stain used; SuperDeck). The posts are pressure treated–replaced old posts last year.
The products I have remaining from my past projects are: STRIPPER: 1 cup;
BRIGHTENER: 1/2 pkg.; STAIN 2 gals. (stain is 2 yrs old–still okay, I hope)
I am trying to calculate what I need to order for my fence project. I hope that you don’t mind helping me figure this out.
Besides the above 3 products, I think your Thickening Gel is essential because it’s a fence. How about the Booster?
I also plan on ordering your sprayer for staining. I think it will be much better than using a brush. I used a brush last time and it was tough on my shoulder.
Thanks so much for taking the time to help me out! And thanks again for such great products.
Please post some pics of the fence. What stain was used on the fence prior?
The fence was last stained about 13 yrs ago with SUPERDECK.
Hi,
-2 Strippers
-2 Brighteners
8-10 Gallons of the stain for the two coats. If you use the older stain, make sure to mix new/old all together before using it so the color is uniform. Shake the containers vigorously for 1-2 minutes before use.
No need for the thickening gel. This is an easy strip.
Thanks so much for your help!
I ordered your sprayer to stain my fence. Any tips on on using it when spraying the stain on?
Thanks.
Tarp the ground and make sure to back wipe and drips or runs right away.
All the products I ordered for my fence project have arrived!
After I use the stripper, then the brightener I will not be able to stain the same day, then it may rain–how many days do I have after using the brightener before I need to get the stain on?
Thanks
A couple of weeks.
Perfect!
Thanks for your quick reply!
If the deck has dried out after using the Brightener should I wet the deck…with a hose or something… before applying the stain?
The stain can be applied to damp or dry wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood
Can restore a deck stain stripper be used on stamped concrete where the sealer has failed?
The Restore A Deck Stain stripper will not remove a concrete sealer.
Hi, we bought a home with neglected ipe hardwood on the back deck and around the front door. It appears to have been stained with a dark maybe reddish stain at some point. It was installed in 2005. No clue on when it was stained or with what stain.
Ideally we’d like to change the color, but not sure if that’s possible given it’s so dark. Will the stripper remove this stain given it’s so dark? Any chance of returning to its natural color? Interested in process recommendations. Thanks!!
Please send a closeup of the stain on the deck and does it have a “shine” to it? It is hard to tell from teh pics you sent.
Sure, see attached. Parts of the deck that are under cover (the eave overhangs thus more protected) have some shine left. The exposed parts really don’t. Around the front door in areas protected there’s more shine, you can see the transition from deeply weathered to more protected.
Use this kit: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
with both additives:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
After you would stain with our Restore a Deck Stain:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-1-gallon.html
Hi, we hired a guy to use your stripper & booster on the flat deck portion. We saw mixed results…in some areas it appeared to work and in some areas it’s almost as if nothing was done. Oddly enough the areas under some roof protection seemed to strip better than areas in the open, even though those areas were more ‘shiny’ as the stain was in better condition.
Each application of the stripper costs me about $1000, so I can’t afford to do this too many times. What should we do next?? Photos here show the result of the first pass.
Some of the pics (where it is dirty and has leaves) you sent have not been cleaned/stripped at all. In the areas where it was cleaned, it looks like the contractor did not let the product dwell long enough and might have not used enought pressure from the pressure washer.
I don’t mean to question the contractor, but are you sure he knows what he is doing, as he has experience removing coatings from decks?
You also mentioned using the Booster. Did you use the Gel as well? You need that, too, as it helps with the dwell time, which can be upwards of 45-60 minutes.
It’s a deck restoration company that uses your products. His recommendation was not to use your product but to sand the deck instead. However, he had a small amount of your stripper and did a test area (part that was under the eave and more shiny). I watched him rinse it, spray just the stripper, let it sit for about 20 minutes, then power wash. The result seemed promising, so that’s why I hired him to do the entire deck. His process was:
I have no reason to believe he skipped any sections of the deck. The uncovered areas appear to have had little change, while the covered areas appeared to have responded better.
We did not use the gel as based on the description page I thought you meant that was for the vertical/wall section to help with adhesion (we didn’t do that part yet). Also, I’m confused by the gel dwell time as the instructions for the gel still say 10-30 minutes, so I wasn’t aware we should be using it for a longer dwell time or that it would help the deck board stripping process.
Using both additives increases the strength of the stripper, as the Gel allows it to sit on the wood longer in one spot compared to “running” off. It is not just for verticals. When you can let the stripper and additives dwell longer, it allows the stripper to penetrate the old stain, softening the bond between the wood and the coating and making the washing easy. The key is to penetrate through the coating. It only takes about 10-20 minutes for normal stains, but when you have a thicker coating, it can take upwards of 45 minutes. You do need to mist with water sometimes to keep it from drying out.
Ok – so your recommendation is to buy everything again (plus the gel this time) and let it dwell for at least 45 minutes before power washing?
Is there any other prep we should be doing to the darker section that doesn’t appear to be responding to the stripper? Or just let it dwell longer?
Which picture are you referring to as darker sections?
This one. For whatever reason you can see it stripped somewhat under the railings but the part that is uncovered completely still has a dark finish. The stain was red, so I’m not sure what caused it to be more black in color that survived a power wash.
That picture looks untouched, not cleaned at all. You have dirt, mildew, grime that would easily come off with a pressure washer and the stripper. Plus it has leaves all over it.
Honestly, I think he missed this spot.
It’s been a week since he did it, so the leaves just fell since then. It’s a huge section that still looks like this, probably 70% – the part that is uncovered.
Looks similar to this guy’s example of his ipe deck – he had to sand it, which is why I’m wondering if my attempts to strip are a waste of money.
https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/c66cpq/a_novices_attempt_at_rejuvenating_a_neglected_ipe/
Honestly, your contractor should easily remove this dirt and grime with the stain, especially in the picture you sent. Nothing was removed, which leads to our comments that it was missed or that he may be inexperienced.
In the Reddit picture, the coating turned dark, which is not the same as you. You have dirt and grime buildup on top of the old stain.
Ok…so I bought everything again, this time with the gel, and I bought a power washer to try this myself. Used a 15 degree nozzle.
Wet the deck and power washed to rinse. Applied the stripper and booster and gel mix with a scrub brush. Scrubbed after 20 mins, 40 mins, and again at 60 mins. Was in the shade so didn’t dry. Power washed. Applied brightener, power washed again.
Here was before:
And here was after. It seems really uneven and there’s still some dark spots. What now?
The stain is off the wood, so it has been stripped. The first picture looks good. How long did you leave the brightener on before rinsing? You may have to leave it on longer for it to fully soak in and neutralize the wood.
About 15 mins. Wait longer next time?
Yes, try that.
I stained my dock a year ago with your stain and have lightly power washed the dirt off last night. Can I restain it now?
Yes. Looks good to go.
I used Restore-A-Deck on my cumaru dock a year ago. It has started to fade just a little bit. What do I need to do to re-stain it?
Thanks,
Larry
See other photos I sent earlier
from the left untreated top deck
second upper part treated with stripper and brightener one time
third photo shows other view of treated area that extends to other side nothing done yet
Secon strip and brighten? I hate to use more power with the power washer but what do you suggest?
Yes, redo the stripping and get closer to the wood. You can get 95% of that off.
So I’ve stripped and brightened all the areas shown. The steps look pretty good and ready for stain. Does the upper deck need a second stripper and brightener? I didn’t power wash it as hard as the stairs. The second half of the upper deck hasn’t been done. Thank you
I want to buy only the stripper
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper.html
Deck is made of redwood. On the floor of deck you will notice for the four boards on left that some light stain remains accumulated.in some areas. So today I am focusing on removing the final stain having to alternate between 60 or 80 girt as effective removal by grit seems to vary on some boards. Not sure if you have any further suggestion on grit use. Tow other questions. Based on the overall quality of the prep of the boards in these pictures I assume I do not need to clean but should focus on brightening the boards. Would that be the correct assumption?? Second question is related to the knots. Appreciate as they are more porous the previous stain has likely settled in this area. The person who applied a stain used a red based tinted stain Will a stain remover help to get some of the stain out otherwise I appreciate the knots will continue to stain out darker when new stain is applied as we plan to use a transparent stain.
We would strip and brighten all wood when done to remove the stain in the knots. No need for the cleaner.
Hello, we purchased Restore A Deck stripper, brightener, and stain products approximately 5 years ago. I’m embarrassed to say, the project was never started due to various circumstances. The deck is in relatively good shape. We’d like to start it this summer and I’d like to use the materials purchased long ago. My question is two fold — 1) will the products still work given they’ve been sitting on the shelf for so long; and 2) a portion of the deck has black mold. Should the deck first be treated with a cleaner meant to address this issue, and then followed with the stripper, or can the stripper alone be used to remove it? I know the mold killers can be harsh, so my concern is one harsh treatment followed by the stripper might cause issues. Thanks for your time.
Hello,
The stripper and brightener should be fine but the stain has a shelf life of about 3 years. The stripper will remove the mold.