We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
I stripped, brightened and stained a few years back using RAD products only of course, but there are some high traffic areas of the deck that appear to need a restrain. Do I need to strip as opposed to clean if I used Restore A Deck again? At first I was thinking I could clean and brighten and then stain again but I wanted to double check (trying to avoid the pain of sanding and all that). On the flip side could I just clean the deck with a high pressure hose and then just stain and avoid the clean/brighten? Thanks!
what is the shelf life of the stripper and or brightner once it is mixed?
Many years as long as they do not freeze.
is it tintable and is there anywhere I can purchase it and see the stains
Not tintable. We have samples here: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-samples/flypage.tpl.html
Hi my deck is bare wood, do I still need to prep. It.
Yes. If new, see this: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
We ordered desert taupe solid and have tested the color on a step that has been stripped and brightened. The color is no where close to the sample on the website or bottle. Attached is a picture showing the sample from your site and images of our steps next to each other. We need help asap as this is too light and will not work. We would like a phone call to discuss options since we took this week off work as weather permitted to finish our deck
Hello, The color is correct and will darken as it cures and when not in direct sunlight. If you want a darker color, maybe Brown Oak will work for you?
Thanks for taking our call today and sending the brown oak asap so we can finish our deck
I used the RAD stripper and brightener and they did a great job. However, the weather has kept me from being able to stain (using TWP 1500) for the past 2 weeks. Do I need to brighten again prior to staining (if it ever stops raining!)?
Yes.
Hi I used the cleaner and then applied the pressure washer. I was not seeing a great difference and then I uses a kitchen sponge and scrubbed some of the wood and a lot of dirt came off and the wood lightened. Do I need to scrub the whole deck on top of pressure washing? Any tips to make it easier? I attached photos and you can see the wood i scrubbed and the ones I didn’t
All the gray and dirt is coming off. Apply the cleaner (make sure you are using the red bag), pressure wash but closer to the wood, rinse well, then brighten all wood. You do not have to scrub.
So even if the color doesnt change I should still just apply the brightner
The only area the color changes was where I scrubbed
Also I stopped cleaning in the middle and am away fkr a few days do I have to redo the whole thing? Bec i didnt place brightner yet? Thanks
No, just finish what is not cleaned.
We ended up renting a floor sander. There is still some old stain but no flaking or peeling we are covering again with the restore a deck solid. There is a 24% chance of rain (scattered storms) this afternoon. Is it OK for us to go ahead and Brighten, any issues if it rains after brightening. Can brightener be applied in full sun? Tonight and Tomorrow is 0% chance of rain so we plan on appying the solid later this evening and / or tomorrow
Rain will not harm any prep. You can brighten now and the sun does not matter.
Thanks so much for your quick response you guys have been great. we have a lot of questions because we’ve had a bad experiences in the past and just want to make sure we are prepping as best as possible. Should we keep the Brightener damp for the 15 minutes that it sits on the deck
Hello, I have several questions for my project. I plan to restore just the deck surface and top of the rails only as they are exposed more to elements.(It rained last night, so the pics may look different)
1. Will the prep solution damage the paint on railings when I apply the prep solution? If so,ow can I safely clean it?
2. Can I skip the prep solution application and power wash it instead?
3. What particular brand of caulk should I use to fill the cracks? Polyurethane or acrylic?
Thank you in advance.
1. No, the cleaner will not harm the railings.
2. Use the cleaner while pressure washing for best results.
3. Do not fill cracks. No need and having cracks is normal for exterior wood.
how do I check on the status of my order?
Your sample order was delivered July 3rd and left at the front door.
any chance the order I just placed can be sent 2 day.? Thank you. Patricia Hartman.
You can call the office to pay for this.
Some of my pictures did not download from my previous post. Jack
That is sap leeching from the wood. Not much can be done about it.
Is this something that I can clean off and reapply another semi-transparent coat next year? Does this sap stop leeching? Thank you
Sap leeching or not cannot be controlled. It can happen whenever the pores are opened and is prone to pine decking.
You can remove with a paint thinner and reapply next year.
I completed the cleaning/staining on my new PTWP deck 3 weeks ago. The deck was built 10 months ago and I am noticing some white/sticky marks on the wood in areas. I also am noticing that the stain did not adhere to some areas. Any ideas?
I’m re-doing my 16’x16′ deck. I’m replacing the railing and stairs with new wood, but decided to keep the base as it was in pretty decent shape. I decided to strip as much as I could by sanding (still a little more to do around the sides). Can I still use the stripper for the hard to get areas between the boards? Followed up with a pressure washer. Can I use the stripper over the entire deck? Or am I going to need to go over with the cleaner after the stripper? There was a dark red/brown stain on the deck before. I want to go with the lighter cedar stain, so figured it would be best to sand.
Another question. I live in Ohio. The new railing and stairs probably won’t have enough time to weather before the weather turns ugly. So I will need to wait until next spring to stain. Should I wait and stain it all together or will it be OK to put a coat down on the base this year, then do the railing and stairs next year? Maybe another light coat over the base at that time?
I am not seeing any stain between the boards in your picture. Not sure if a stripper and pressure washer will even be able to get between the boards to remove anything. I wouldn’t even bother trying. Best to just clean and brighten all now and stain with one coat. After the rails/stairs are installed and weathered, prep them in Spring and apply one coat to all wood.
If the stain does not fully cure for 24 hours, is there anyway I can apply a light coat on top of a light coat I applied about 8 hours ago? Now that it has dried, I see what I missed and where I applied too little.
Thanks!
No, wet on wet coats only. 20-60 minutes after the first coat.
Ok. Thanks. I’ll do it in the Fall.
My husband and I purchased your 3-step kit and are finally getting around to starting the process. We decided to purchase your kit as we’re tired of restaining our deck every 2 years. (Totally rethinking the cost effectiveness of building a composite deck next time.) We used a pressure washer first and I started the cleaning part, but there is still quite a bit of the previous stain on the cedar deck. I’ll attach a picture. After reviewing some of the comments from others and the RAD responses, I have a question. We most recently (2-3 years ago) applied Cabot cedar oil stain (but it’s not solid stain; I’m attaching the picture below of what we used). Do we need to completely sand the deck before completing step 2 & 3 in the RAD process? Or do I need to repeat step 1 (cleaning) and really put tons of elbow grease into it. Or perhaps simply sanding would be easier??
You should be using the stripper for this, not the cleaner. Use the additves as well: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
The other option is to sand.
I purchased a gazebo one month ago. The builder applied one coat of a semi-transparent water based stain on the pressure treated floor but the color is much too light. Can I apply RAD over the existing stain?
No, you would have to strip it off and then brighten the wood.
how soon after applying restore a deck will it tolerate rain
2-4 hours after it dries.
I just finished applying one coat of dark walnut semi transparent due to all the sanding required to get the deckover, paint and other stain off. I used a 1 1/4 bags of cleaner, 1 1/4 bags of brightener and did not even finish 2.5 gallons of stain. I did not want to over apply, but what if I under applied?
Looks good! You will be fine and you can always do a light cleaning and recoat next year or as needed.
The reason you used less stain is due to the sanding. That reduces absorption.
Ok. It is much lighter than I thought it would be. How many months do I need to wait if I want to clean, brighten and add another coat?
Thanks!
Kate
Later in Fall or next Spring will work. It is lighter due to the sanding as that reduces absorption.
Ok. Thanks so much for the help!
Hi,
I am going to re-stain my 20+ year old deck. I stained it about 5 years ago. I have power washed it, I am not sure I remove all the old stain. I also have one area that has turned black from the suet that dripped on the deck. I have two questions.
1. How do I remove the suet stain
2. Do I need to use the stripper and brightener?
You could try the stripper and brightener but if the oils from the bird seed are deep in the wood, then it will not come out fully.
Could I use dish soap like Dane to remove the oils Or would that damage the wood? Also I see a number of people have sanded their deck, is this just to smooth out the roughness or to improve the staining
Dawn will not remove the deep oils, nothing will. Probably not even sanding.
We plan on ordering this product (semi-transparent), and cleaner to resurface our beat up 8 year old deck. Can we also use this product on our exterior / front wood beams (wood columns) and bead-board porch ceilings that are in need of paint or stain? Would love to multi-purpose this product. Thanks for any insight.
You can as long as there is not any previous stain.
Pictures
We applied stripper this morning left it on for 30 minutes we are in the process of pressure washing and they’re still a lot of flaking the deck previously had behr solid stain on it. What are your recommendations?
Hello,
Per the stripper product page, the stripper will not remove a solid stain fully. Are you planning on using a solid stain again?
Yes.
You have multiple layers of solid stain that is peeling. Best to continue to strip and pressure-wash off as much as you can. When done, let dry and power sand the rest of the loose stain before applying a new coat of solid stain.
It was stained with solid 2 years ago, 2years prior to that was stained with semi transparent. It is 4 years old. We attached the surface cleaner to the pressure washer and it’s doing better
Should we brighten before or after sanding. Updated pics attached
After.
Here is another pic
Do you have samples of the Armstrong stains?
We do not.
Most of your advertising states that you can clean, brighten and brighten on the same day. On your bottles of stain I received it states to wait 48 hours before staining. Which is correct>
We for 48 hours if using a different brand of stain. The RAD stain can be applied the same day.
How long from order time would it take for stain to be delivered to Calgary alberta
4-6 business days.
Can the solid be applied to damp wood or does this only apply to semi solid and transparent stains?
The RAD Solid can be applied to damp wood.
I have a rooftop deck and would like to save some effort sanding by using a stripper. Will it hurt the membrane of my flat roof?
No, it should not.
Hello
I applied the stain to my deck yesterday, it started raining early this morning and I noticed that the water is not beading up on the deck in some places. Did I not apply not enough stain to the deck ?
I put on 2 coats of the stain. Thx
It is not designed to bead water but shed water as it is a penetrating breathable wood stain.
Here is a photo. Trust me… it looks worse in person.
Hi! I just finished staining my new deck (16×20 KDAT pine) I weathered it for 7 weeks, used the cleaner, the Brightener, and then followed with a single coat of RAD cedar and now that it has dried, I have to say, I did a lousy job. I used a pad to apply and you can see every last overlap, stop mark, etc… next time I’m definitely going with a brush. My question is… how long do I have to wait to redo it? And even if I do give it a second coat, will it cover the mistakes I made this time?
You will have to remove to fix this. You can do it now or next Spring. Was it hot out when you did this and did you apply to damp wood? See this for tips about hot sun issues: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-hot-sun-application.html
I misted it, per the instructions, then waited an hour for the standing water to disappear. It was still early in the day, so under 80 degrees, and it was overcast. I had also power washed it for over 30 minutes the night before during the cleaning/brightening process. The directions on the stain said not to stop in the middle of a board, but I was only able to cover about 6 feet of each 20 foot board before having to stop and re-wet the stain pad. Any suggestions on how to work around that? Would a brush would give me better results than a pad? Also, when I stained my sample boards, they were more visibly wet (no standing water, but the wood was clearly damp) and they came out perfectly (of course they were only two feet long, so I didn’t have to stop and restart anywhere). Assuming the stripper works like the brightener (spray on, wait 15 minutes, then power wash off) will it remove ALL of the stain? And finally (sorry – I’m just frustrated that I screwed this up and don’t want to mess it up again), am I correct in assuming that simply applying a second coat of stain at this point would not mask the problems, but make them worse? Thanks so much for your help. The color is beautiful. I just didn’t expect the process to be so unforgiving. The drips settled almost instantly. Thanks again. I appreciate it.
It should remove all the stain. Use the boosters as well: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Adding more now will not work. Use the stain brush when applying: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/decktools.html
Thanks. Last question – I just watched a few videos online and noticed that they only pulled the brush backwards. I went front and back like a mop. Could that have been part of the problem? Also wondering if there’s a logic to just getting two high quality paint/stain brushes, dipping one in water, wetting the board and then following right away with stain using the second brush (like I did with the sample boards) It would take a lot longer, but it feels like it might give me more control over both the application (fewer drips and overlaps) and the dampness of the wood. Or am I overthinking this? Apologies for the stupid questions. Just want to get this right.
No, front and back is fine. Yes, you are over thinking this a little. Just spread evenly from end to end.
I just ordered the stripper and plan to redo sometime in the next couple of weeks depending on the weather. I think you may be right in that I allowed the boards to dry too much before applying. Are the boosters really necessary given that I only applied one coat? The description makes it sound like they’re only needed for extreme cases. Thanks.
A newly applied stain is harder to remove, that is why we suggested the additives.
You have to brighten as well when done.
Would I be better off waiting til Spring? Or would I still have to use the additives even then?
It would be easier to strip in the Spring. Probably would not need the additives.
Here are a few more pics. If you zoom in a little, you’ll see all of the stop-start marks and inconsistencies.
Applied the brighter and rinsed thoroughly. After the deck dried I’ve noticed a white coating or film on many of the pieces. Is this normal?
Post a picture.
Do I need to seal the deck after I stain it?
No need and you cannot add a sealer over a deck stain.
My zip code is 80504. Is there a local Store where your products can be purchased?
No there is not but we can ship to you.
Having successfully used R-A-D stripper,wood brightener and translucent ceder stain/sealer, can I apply a second coat of stain/sealer weeks later?
No, the first coat has already cured and would repel the second coat if weeks later. You can lightly clean and recoat in late Fall or Spring.
Installed a fence using pressure treated pine July 2018. Received some very bad advise from local “experts”. Spent many, many hours stripping horrible-looking stain. Desperately needing some assistance so I don’t waste another 2-3 weeks prepping fence and hating final product. Do I need to apply cleaner and brightener or can I just find the correct color stain desired. Portion of fence has removing agent applied and sprayed off with garden hose, old fence has only been pressure washed, a new 12-ft section (on left) is waiting to weather and will be addressed next year. Thanks so much for your time. I am planning to purchase sample kit, but need to know if I should purchase other products.
Yes, lightly clean and brighten for final prep.
I have a deck that was repaired – it hasn’t been treated for 15 years, and that was with a clear coat without stain, but now I have new boards mixed in with old. I am wanting to stain the deck but need advice on the products I need to first clean the old wood. Do I need a cleaner, a stripper and a brightener?
Clean and brighten of no visible coating is on the wood.
Looks good, even after only 1 coat.
Finally finished! 860′ 33 year old redwood deck. Previously stained, powerwashed, restained every year or 2. Cleaned, stripped, powerwashed to remove all old stain (20 hours!) and finally applied Restore-A-Deck solid. Unfortunately, 10 gallons barely covered ONE coat, but it looks better than it has in years. Too late now for a second coat, but I’ll apply the 2nd coat next spring. Just a few questions:
1 – I actually ordered 12 gallons and have 2 unopened. Can I save them until next spring?
2 – How many gallons will I need in the spring for the 2nd coat?
3 – How much cleaner should I order before applying the 2nd coat?
1. Yes.
2. it should spread twice as far as the first coat.
3. Just one cleaner.
Do the verticals require a 2nd coat?
No need.
I do not have a power washer available or know of one to hire. Can I clean and brighten with a garden hose?
No, it will not work with just a garden hose to clean.
Bought the house several years ago and just getting around to doing something with the deck. We’ve decided to try and paint/stain the deck to give us a few years until we need to replace it.
I don’t know anything about the deck other than the size of it. Not sure if it’s stain or paint(leaning to this because of color). I was going to purchase some of your products but not sure what I need for the prep. Any suggestions?
You will need the RAD solid stain to cover this: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-solid-stain.html
Prep with pressure washing and the RAD stripper to help remove the peeling paint that is currently on the wood.
I need to put a second coat of woodrich penetrating stain on my cedar deck. We did one good coat about a year and a half ago (when the deck was new). Before we initially stained it we used used the restore a deck cleaner and brightener. We had a lot of new wood gunk come off and it was a big process to scrub and sand. I don’t want to strip off the stain that is there I just want to add a second coat. Can you please tell me how to prep?
Use the RAD Cleaner and lightly pressure wash.
I recently stripped my deck using RAD products. We had a transparent waterbased stain previously. I also sanding the entire deck to bare wood. We decided to use your solid stain-classic white. I am very displeased at the outcome. We followed the directions and weather as instructed. We let the first coat dry for several days. Today it rained and the stain is now turning yellow on us. What gives? Please help.
The yellowing is not from the stain (it is not possible for a white stain to turn yellow) but from something else. Possibly the water or pollen? It also needs another coat.
I have a cedar deck that was originally stained with a water based semi-transparent stain 2-3 years ago. The deck was new at that time. It almost immediately started peeling, and has continued to do so over the last two years. I’m very concerned that the much of the wood is (and has been) unprotected from elements – I live in Minnesota.
At any rate, I’m planning to prepare the deck myself, and I’ve hired someone to stain it for me. What do you recommend I use to remove what I left of the water based stain?
Thank you!!
What brand was it and best to post some pictures.
I sanded, cleaned, brightened and stained my handrail (2 coats) last fall. Now, there are several sections of the handrail that have faded dramatically so that the wood underneath is turning grey. Plus there are a few sections that look like they’ve dropped out completely and appears as if new wood is showing though. This just happened last week. I want to find out what’s happening with this before I restain my entire deck. Would appreciate your comments and advice.
Most likely you over-applied. The RAD is designed to sook in fully and if too much is applied to the point it cannot fully soak in, this can happen. If you sand the deck, this would hinder the stain’s absorption is why we suggest only one coat if applying to sanded wood.
What is your suggested remedy?
Since it is just the railing, take 60 grit paper and sand it. Rinse well with water and apply 1 light coat. It should take much better/
I have a 12 year old pressure treated yellow pine deck, 337 sq feet. Last year it was coated with penofin oil base stain. It has darkened with many black areas. What do you suggest?
Prep with the RAD stripper and brightener. One of each. Stain with the RAD stain. About 3-4 gallons for the two coats applied wet on wet.
Not sure why this one did not load, but this photo shows the worst of what is left on the deck now. Please let me know what you think. Thanks so much!
Kate
You will need to continue to sand to get it all off. Use 60-80 grit paper. A stripper will not work on this coating. Once fully sanded, clean and brighten for the final prep and then apply one coat of the stain.
At long last, I have all that awful deck over, paint and stain off. Tomorrow I’ll clean, brighten and stain. Thanks so much for all of your help and advice!
best regards,
Kate
Be wary of Hot Sun application: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-hot-sun-application.html
Just one coat of the stain due to the sanding.
I cleaned and brightened and checked the radar to find that the forecast had changed. We are due for scattered showers tonight. So in the morning, can I just wet the deck to dampen, then apply the stain?
Thanks!
Kate
Yes. https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
At the end of day 12 of removing layers of deck over, paint and stain, I have almost all of it off. Will the remainder come off with sanding or should I use a regular deck stripper and then sand? I’m really looking forward to using your quality products! I’m going to be using dark walnut semi transparent.
Thank you!
Kate
I have a 22 year old pressure treated pine deck that was treated with
TWP-100 3 years ago. The horzonal boards look devoid of any of the TWP. The vertical
boards of the rails look like they still have some TWP on them. The deck is
very dirty and has a minor amount of green stuff on it. Should I use the
stripper or just the cleaner and what is the best way to clean the vertical
boards of the rails. Would the gel work best for them?
Thanks!
Phil