We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
Do I have to strip the deck to use RAD if there is a prior coat of Defy Extreme on the Deck?
Yes, you cannot apply a different brand of stain over your current coating.
Last August, I put on one coat of RAD’s semi-transparent natural wood stain on my deck, and it turned out beautiful! This year it still looks pretty good, but there are some spots where it seems to have worn thin, with bare grain beginning to show through in spots. This is true primarily where the sun has hit it the hardest. Would you recommend a second coat now, or should I wait longer before I recoat it? And if I recoat it, do I first use the cleaner and brightener just as I did before?
Wait until Spring. Prep the same to recoat.
I have a deck that I need help with next steps.
The deck is 4-5 years old, and the original Semi-Transparent Stain did not adhere correctly (peeled), so I have spent the last 2 weekends applying Citri-Strip, and then pressure washing the old off (before I found / was recommended your products). I will next do some rough sanding of seating areas, and posts. The pictures are after the first attempt at stripping with a SW product that did not work, the final result is quite clean pressure treated pine.
Best I can tell my next step with your products is Brightener and then Semi-transparent penetrating stain.
Is there a time frame from the process I have completed to then use the brightener, i.e. do I need to figure out how to do that sooner than later, or can it be up to a month?
Is there any chance you can help me estimate how much is needed? The deck itself is about 15′ x 18′, but as you can see there is a pergola and benches.
In addition, I see we spray on the brightener and then rinse, is there a best practice for applying the stain (i.e. how do I apply it the the pergola and protect the deck and benches until I’m ready (are simple canvas drop cloths enough)?
Thanks in advance for the help.
After using the brightener, you should stain within a couple of weeks. As far as how much stain, 5-7 gallons would be a good estimate.
Thanks. I will try and do the same day, but bigger deck, so may be tough.
Will the standard canvas drop cloths suffice for the protecting of the deck and benches while I apply the stain to the pergola? Do you have advice how to apply to the pergola…hand pump sprayer and then roll in (with a thin nap roller?), or any other method?
Thanks again for the time!
Plastic tarps. Canvas will bleed through. You can spray and back brush/pad for the pergola. Don’t use a roller.
Thanks. I will try and do the same day, but bigger deck, so may be tough. Will the standard canvas drop cloths suffice for the protecting of the deck and benches while I apply the stain to the pergola? Do you have advice how to apply to the pergola…hand pump sprayer and then roll in (with a thin nap roller?), or any other method?
Also, approx. how many square feet are you estimating, so i also know how much Brigthener to order…or can you let me know your estimate for Brightener needed?
Thanks again for the time!
One pack of brightener.
After being the one to reply to my questions, is there any way to call you directly to ask final questions before I purchase?
Thanks.
Anyone at the office can answer your questions.
I painted my first coat of a solid restore a deck stain a few weeks ago. Due to scheduling constraints, I wasn’t able to apply the second coat within the recommended time period. what cleaning / preparation do I need to do to get good adhesion between the 1st coat applied a few weeks ago and a second coat?
Do a light pressure wash rinse tor remove dirt and let dry fully before applying. Post some pictures when done!
Just cleaned, brightened, and stained a brand-new deck but wound up with really bad lap marks. Used a foam pad to apply as opposed to rolling and back brushing. Followed all instructions, time limits, ‘damp’ preparation, etc. What can I do in the future to avoid these marks? And should I immediately apply a second coat to try and obscure them now? Thanks in advance.
Another coat will not take now. Did you let the wood season and you prepped the wood? https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Applying in full sun could have been an issue as well: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-hot-sun-application.html
Hi! So I used your clean and brightener and I did one coat in an area on Friday and I’m Sunday some water spilled on it and I see it washed away. What did I do wrong? Why isn’t it curing?some of the space was just from stain being out on unevenly
You definitely will need more than one coat for the solid stain. Once the stain fully cures, it cannot wash away.
I’m worried why it didn’t cute in two days though does that mean it needs more time or it won’t cure because I did something wrong
Did you prep and stain the same day? If so, how long did you let the wood dry between prep and stain?
no i didnt i did prep and a little less than two weeks later did stain
Are the RAD stain, cleaner and brightener made in the US?
Yes.
I coated a new cedar deck last fall with Flood CWF-UV penetrating wood finish. I put on one thin coat a 24 hours later a fairly thick coat. This year it looks terrible: splotchy. I am trying to strip it. I’ve applied Superdeck exterior wood stripper 2X and am still scrubbing and pressure washing the Flood product up. the deck is about 10′ wide by 30′ long. Any advice you can give me?
Post a picture.
Ok….I finished sanding the solid stained deck ( DeckScapes) I have been working on…( Most solid stain peeled off with pressure washing and I completely sanded everything with 50 grit and a belt sander. Applied stripper and brightener today to all and there are a few small areas that are still peeling and I will finish sanding those tomorrow. My question is: Is there any need to re-brighten etc the small places that I sanded or can I just make sure its clean with compressed air before staining? ( Received Costal Gray solid stain today and will be staining Monday. UPS delayed the delivery for some odd reason!! )
Also…is there any reason to dampen the deck before starting to stain on Monday? Its about 400 sq ft. and temps here will be in the 80’s. I can keep most of the deck shaded .
Thanks!
Kent
If using the solid stain, no need to brighten again or dampen with water prior to stain.
can I use a regular pump sprayer or do I need a stain pump sprayer?
Any quality pump sprayer with a fan tip will work.
What is the shelf life of the RAD solid stain?
Unopened and stored in a temperature-controlled room, it is a few years.
I’m using a solid stain to go over an old solid stain on a deck with wood rails. The wood is pressure treated pine about 15 years old. The old stain was applied over 5 years ago. Do I need to strip and brighten when covering solid stain with solid stain? I do have access to a pressure washer .
No need to strip all off. You can use the stripper and pressure washing to help remove the loose or peeling stain. You can cover any of the current solid stain that is not peeling after the prep.
Just cleaned, pressured washed and stained my 22 year old main deck with one of your semi-transparent stains. Looks great! We have new stairs and I ended up staining them on a separate day. Unfortunately there was an unexpected rain and the stairs are splotchy. Do I need to start from scratch and pressure wash and sand and then stain? Also, I applied the same stain to the rails but am now thinking of using your solid white stain on them to match a smaller deck and our porch. How do I prepare the rails?
You would have to strip/brightener the rails for best results with the solid stain. You would also have to remove the blotchy stain from the steps if you want to fix now since the stain has cured already. The other option is to wait until Spring and lightly clean and recoat then
I have applied the stripper and brightener to half the deck but I think parts still need additional stripping. May just sand it out, but is there any downside to the wood in repeating the entire process. Thx
Post a picture.
Great!!…Will be staining either Friday or Monday..I will post pics when complete. Thanks a million for all the help! The only thing that could make it better is if the customer is still happy a year or 2 from now!!!
Don’t forget to enter out contest: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-prep-stain-contest-2019.html
Does the solid color stain require the second coat wet on wet??
No. First coat has to dry before applying the second coat with the RAD Solid Stains.
Should I use the brightener or cleaner on the raw wood that I just exposed or is that mainly just used to neutralize the use of you stripper or cleaner?
Use to neutralize the Cleaner and Stripper but will help to open up the pores of a sanded deck as well.
Pressure washed solid stained ( DeckScapes) deck and exposed a lot of bare wood.. after sanding any still intact stain should I use any of your cleaning/stripping/brightening products on the exposed raw wood??
I have ordered 4 gallons of Coastal Gray Solid Stain and I have 1 each stripper and brightener and stripper additive also. I posted earlier this morning
As long as the intact stain is adhering to the wood, you can stain with the Solid Gray over it.
Will the cleaner, brightener or transparent stain effect pavers or red brick?
The patio pavers are under a pergola and the pergola is attached to a brick house.
No issues on brick with the prep products but do not get the stain on them. Cover or tarp during the staining process.
I have a deck that is a year old. We’ve cleaned it and are ready to apply stain. We want semi-transparent, but don’t know which stain to use – RAD stain, TWP, or Armstrong. Help!
All of them come in semi-transparent colors. Where are you located?
How would you suggest removing a semi transparent primer from Home Depot on teak. I’m considering buying a table, but owner primed it already. (They thought they were going to stain it). I just did a teak table with what I now believe was solid stain with a lot of sanding and your products, it came out great, but I don’t want that much work for this table.
You will have to sand it off.
I used a cleaner to clean new cedar before staining. I had let the wood gray over several months before applying cleaner. I thought I had rinsed thoroughly using highest pressure of my garden hose for about 45 min over the whole deck. Now the wood is dry and the whole thing is furred. What should by next step be?
That is oxidation/graying of the wood cells that was not fully removed. Reapply the cleaner and pressure wash off. Rinsing with a garden hose will not get this off. Brighten the wood after.
Thank you. Do I also need to pressure wash off the brightener or just rinse with a garden hose? Can I ask why do I need to re-apply the cleaner and not just pressure wash?
Pressure washing with just water could damage the wood. using the cleaner helps with this by allowing you to use less pressure. Rinse the brightener when done.
Makes sense thanks again. What psi do you recommend when rinsing off the cleaner? “Rinse the brightener when done” means with just a garden hose?
Rinse brightener with pressure washer. Wash with cleaner and pressure washer arounf 1500 PSI.
I am refinishing a treated wood deck for a customer that was stained with DeckScapes solid. I realize that unless I completely sand I would need to use solid color stain….my question is how should I prep to change the color to gray? I will be pressure washing today and can post more pictures after.
Thanks in advance!!
Prep by pressure washing off any loose or peeling stain, dirt, algae, etc. Let dry and sand smooth any rough edges of the current solid stain. You can cover over the intact solid stain that is not peeling with the RAD Solid Stain.
I have finished applying Restore a deck semi transparent stain to my deck following your directions. Do I also need to now apply a sealer?
No, and you cannot apply a sealer over any deck stains. No need.
is this the same product as the gemini restore a deck
We private label it for them.
ty…how long does it take to ship to CT if i ordered the cleaner/brightener today
2-4 business days.
I have a lake front home with a 750 s.f wood deck that I want to redo. My concern is the slope under the deck is quite steep towards the lake and the stripping material will likely run into the lake. Am I correct in assuming this product would be harmful to any plant life on land and in the lake? Thanks
It is eco-safe.
I just stained my railings with your white stain and there are areas that are yellow. I used both your cleaner and brightener. Do you know why this might be happening? I was going to buy few gallons of your gray to do the floor but I’m concerned if it will also not be uniform in color.
Did you put on two coats? You might just need another coat as the old coating or wood is showing through it seems. There is nothing in the stain that would cause it to be yellow.
Yes, I did apply 2 coats.
I emailed last Monday but haven’t heard back yet and really want to get started on my deck. We ordered the stripper and brightener but are wondering just how much preparation we need. Our deck is a combination of composite (floor and bench seats) and metal (vertical posts) and wood. We need to use the stripper on the wood but are wondering if it will be harmful to the other areas. Do we need to completely cover them up with tarps and tape or is it okay if they get some of the over spray from the wood. We are anxious to get going on this but don’t want to do any harm. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.
The prep products should not harm the composite. Most likely will not have any effect on the metal spindles either but best to test first to make sure there is not any reaction.
Home is in the Puget Sound area, Pacific Northwest, where we get a lot of rain.
500 SF Deck, Incense Cedar, installed 2015, applied Semi-transparent Flood.
I have completely removed the Flood stain with RAD Stripper, applied RAD Brightener, spot sanded areas where some stain remained. The wood looks great and is ready for second Brightener and then stain.
I ordered and received 5g. RAD semi-transparent, cedar color. However, I am now having second thoughts. Would the TWP100 be a better choice considering the weather here and the type of wood, Incense Cedar?
Is it possible to return the RAD semi-transparent and order the TWP100? Any suggestions?
Which of the two products will work best in the Puget Sound region and on Incense Cedar?
Either brand would work well and about the same in performance. You can exchange but you will need to cover the shipping costs and any price difference.
I have a 5 year old Trex deck with cedar railings that I stained with Ready Seal, an oil based stain, about 3 years ago with mixed results with mixed results (some greying, fuzzies remained). Prior to staining I cleaned (sodium percarbonate) and brightened (oxalic acid) before applying the stain. For the next staining of the cedar railings, Ready Seal strongly advised using a bleach and water solution for cleaning/brightening for best results but I feel the approach would risk discoloring the Trex portions if not properly controlled. I’m ready to move on RAD products and my question is: when prepping with RAD do I need to go through the full sequence of stripping, cleaning and brightening before applying a RAD stain? Also, just to confirm is there any problem going from an oil based stain like Ready Seal to a water based stain like RAD or TWP (and what are the implications for prep)? Further in using RAD products are there any considerations I need to take into account for protecting the Trex portion of the deck? Thanks!
Strip and brighten. No need to use the Cleaner. No issues using the RAD as long as you stripping off the RS. No issues with the Trex.
Thanks RAD team for the feedback! Just to confirm, the RAD stripping and brightening process will take care of the cedar that has greyed out as well? Is this done with the stripping process and how best can it be accomplished (i.e. with a power washer, scrubbing by hand). Maybe I’m overestimating the effort but after a couple of years – even with the previous stain (Ready Seal) – the greyed out cedar is apparent in many parts (I also I have to remove the furries by sanding). Lastly while I’m ready to move on to RAD for both prepping (stripping and brightening) and staining would it be easier to prep with RAD and then go to an oil based stain like TWP (is there and advantage to staying with an oil based stain and would the same sequence be the same – e.g., strip and brighten with RAD, then stain with TWP?). Thanks again!
The RAD will remove the RS and the gray. Apply and pressure wash off. Brighrenr when done. No advantage to using an oil-based stain but you can. Same prep.
Thanks! I’ll use the RAD stain as well. Lastly, when stripping the cedar railings do I need to take special care to protect the Trex boards/material which is the majority of the deck? For example do I need to cover the Trex with plastic and/or pre wet the Trex water (like the instructions say with windows, etc ..)? Keep in mind I’ll probably be applying the stripper with a scrub brush (not spraying), so there shouldn’t be a lot of excess stripper getting on the non cedar parts of the deck. I’m hoping I can just pre wet the Trex and rinse off the whole deck when done stripping and brightening.
The stripper will not harm the Trex.
Thanks! I just put in an order for RAD products. Lastly, just to confirm:
– can I apply the stripper with a brush (or do I need to apply with a sprayer)? Keep in mind that it’s only cedar railings (about 3 inches wide) but they are pretty gray.
– likewise do I need to apply the brightener with a sprayer (the type on the RAD website?) or with a brush? If I use a brush what type of brush do I need to use and do I avoid too vigorously applying the stripper to not damage the wood?
– Do I sand off the existing furries after I’m finished stripping and brightening or before that process?
– You stated earlier I should pressure wash off the stripper; what PSI should I use? Likewise, should I pressure wash off the brightener too or can I just rinse off with a garden hose?
Apply stripper with a sprayer, not a brush.
Appy brightener with a sprayer.
Sand if needed after.
1500-2000 psi will work for the stripper. Just rinse brightener.
Have approx 200 yards of post and pole fencing.
1. Any of your products applicable?
2. Can the 3 step process be avoided for the 200 yards of fencing, i.e. just apply the stain
3. Which of the useable products have the longest useful life before restaining is necessary?
1. Yes, the stain would work well.
2. No, you have to prep.
3. The RAD semi-transparent stain.
I have 600 sq ft deck (including stairs & side coverings). Was stained 2 years ago with Cabot – poor quality product. Now the deck is in terrible shape.
It looks as if I will have to sand down, strip, brighten and stain anew.
How much RAD stain will I need, and how much RAD cleaner and brightener. Stain color probably Natural-semi-transparent.
Total cost please?
Can you ship to Canada?
One RAD Cleaner/Brightener Kit. 5-6 gallons of the stain. Add the products to cart and enter your shipping info for the total cost.
How much product will I need for old pressure treated pine deck about 1000 sf. Previously stained with Behr transparent water based stain. Much of deck is now peeling. I understand that I need to strip the old stain, apply brightener and then apply new stain. Not sure how much of each product I will need.
2 Stripper/Brightener Kits: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/order-restore-a-deck/rad-kits-best-price/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/flypage.tpl.html
2 Each of the Additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
About 10 gallons of stain for two coats applied wet on wet.
Hello, I need to sand, stain clean and brighten my redwood deck. Obviously, stain goes last. What order should i do the other 3 steps?
Clean, sand, then brighten.
We have a 25 year old cedar deck that is only about a foot off the ground with a face board around the edge leaving only a 2 inch gap to allow air flow under the deck. We have used Sikkens Cetol deck stain as recommended by the builder but found it begins to peel off within a year after application. Do you have a product that would preserve our cedar deck without peeling off?
The RAD semi-transparent stain does not peel. It is a penetrating wood stain. You will have to remove the Sikkens first. Use the RAD Stain Stripper with the additives. Brightener after.
Stripper Kits: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Kits-Best-Prices.html
Additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
I completely sanded my weathered deck last year and applied 2 coats of your stain. I am very satisfied with the results. I have no peeling but some algae from a long winter. I would like to stain again but am not sure about the prep. What cleaner etc. should I be using?
Use the RAD Cleaner and a light pressure wash for the prep. Apply only one coat of the stain.
It will take several days to strip my deck because I will also need to do some sanding. Is it OK to finish stripping and then re-wet and add brightener all at once? Or do I need to strip and brighten in sections?
Yes, you can do it all at once.
160 SF, 8’x20′, it’s composite decking material (CertainTeed Boardwalk, similar to original Trex composite), it’s about 15 years old, has never been stained or painted, we are pressure washing the decks later this month. We have 46 of these decks to paint, my biggest concern is maintenance so we don’t have to continue to pressure wash these decks annually. Is the Restore a Deck stain appropriate for this job?
Sorry but no, it has not been tested for Composite decking. It may work just fine but we do not have any feedback with it.
Our treated lumber 32 x 10 deck, arbor, swing and flower boxes were stained with Sherwin Williams Deckscape waterborne semi transparent deck stain. The arbor and swing’s finishes have not failed and I am not planning on sanding them. The deck and the top of the flowerboxes were faded and peeling. One deck board was starting to rot and has been replaced. I have sanded the deck with an orbital sander with 40 grit paper to remove the peeled stain and smooth out the surfaces.
I plan on using RAD Stripper and Brightener on the deck, arbor, swing and flowerboxes. I am not sure which stain to use. It looks like the RAD Dark Walnut Semi-Transparent stain might be a good option. Also not sure how a two-toned option would look.
Questions:
– I plan on applying RAD Stripper and Brightener to everything. Do you recommend lightly sanding the areas that I have already sanded with a finer grit sandpaper?
– Do you recommend I prep and stain the new deck board with the rest of the deck? What is the best way to make it blend in with the rest of the deck?
– What are the pros and cons of the different stains you sell?
– I am going to have to stand in the lake when I stain the outside of the flowerboxes and the deck frame. I figure it will take me two days to apply one coat of stain to the flowerboxes, arbor, swing and deck. Do you have any recommendations relating to the sequence of completing this project?
– How much of each product will be needed and what is the most economical way to purchase them (Are RAD Kits cheaper than purchasing the products separately)?
The stain that you have is not a semi-transparent in appearance but a solid color. This stain cannot be stripped fully off. While the can says it is semi-trans, it is actually not.
Best to go with the two-toned approach. Solid stain for the verticals, arbor, flower boxes, etc and use the semi-transparent for the floors. Sand the rest of the stain off the floors. You can then strip and brighten all for the final prep. No need to sand after.
-the new board on the floor will not blend the first time staining. Nothing you can do to make it blend when using a semi-transparent color.
-Do the solid stain first and the semi-transparent last for the floors.
-We would need sq footage to help with how much stain is needed. One prep kit should work.
Thank you for your timely replies! Your website and recommendations are greatly appreciated.
Would the RAD Brown Oak Solid and the RAD Dark Walnut Semi be a good match for the two-toned approach? Also, what is the shelf life of the RAD semi transparent stain?
Thanks again for your help!
Any color combo would work, that would be your preference. Shelf life is a couple of years. It cannot freeze.
I have purchased and received the RAD stripper, RAD brightener, RAD solid stain for the flower boxes & arbor and RAD semi-transparent stain for the deck. I have finished sanding the top surfaces of the treated lumber deck which removed nearly all of the old stain. There is still some old stain on the edges of the deck boards.
Will the stripper remove the Sherman Williams stain that is on the edges on the deck boards?
I am not planning on sanding the old Sherman Williams stain off of the flower boxes and arbor. I would like to use my pump sprayer to apply the RAD stripper to these items (and the deck) knowing it will not remove the “solid” stain from the flower boxes and arbor.
What recommendations do you have relating to using the stripper on the flower boxes and arbor? I will be using the RAD brightener prior to staining them with RAD solid stain .
The RAD Stripper will not remove a solid stain from the edges of the deck boards. You may be able to remove some but not all will come off the deck boards, flower boxes, and arbor. Apply and pressure wash off.
Square Footage of Area to be Restored: Approx 590 Sq ft deck, 100 sq ft railings
Type of wood if known: Redwood
Approximate Age of Wood: 25-30 years
Previous Stain Brand Used and Type: Not sure, but believe Water based solid stain
When was the last time wood was stained: No idea. Purchased home 3 years ago.
Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.): Decks and railings
Do you have access to a pressure washer: Yes
Miscellaneous Info:
I have 3 questions please.
1) Based on the pictures can you confirm that you believe my decks to have been stained previously rather than painted? I just want to make sure that your product will work directly over the top (once dirt and loose material has been removed).
2) If I used your “Brown Oak” which is darker than the existing stain, do you believe it will require 2 coats?
3) If I decide to use the Classic white on the railings, will 2 coats cover a previous brown stain effectively?
Many thanks
1. Yes, it is a solid stain and you can apply the RAD Solid stain over this.
2. Yes, two coats.
3. Yes, it should.
Perfect! Thank you very much!
Hi,
Why do I have these lighter colored spots at the joints of my decking? It seems to bead water and I’m afraid the stain wont penetrate in these locations. What should I do?
New wood cannot be stained right away: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
It should be fine after the weathering and prep.
Thanks for the reply. Its weathered now for just over 9 months. Do I let it weather more or is there something I can do at those spots? Sanding maybe?
Thanks
Ask the builder if they put any end cut sealer on those areas.
I did the build and I didnt put any sealer on the ends.
You might want to let it weather some more. Maybe in the Fall. Sanding will not help and could make it worse.
99% percent of the deck is ready to accept stain. Could I stain what is ready and let the spots weather and then come back around and stain them? Or would it be noticeably different between the two?
Go ahead and do all. Once coat this year and another next year: https://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I have a deck that is approximately two feet from our lake. Are these products safe to use knowing the runoff will get into the water (toxic to fish, etc)?
Yes, they are eco-safe.
What is the shelf life of the stain?
Opened, about 12 months but could be longer if stored in a temperature-controlled room and the lid is fully closed. Much longer if unopened.
I have a couple hundred square foot couple year old deck. When it was a year old I put on a coat of Australian Timber Oil. Not happy with results. Deck has also grown a lot of algae/mold/mildew. Last year tried to clean and pressure wash but didn’t refinish because still green deep in wood. Just used RAD stripper, which worked very well, and brightener. Deck looks day and night better but still green deep in the grain that you can see when wet. I’ve tested everything I can think of on small pieces. Concentrated roof cleaner, straight bleach, pool chlorine granules, power washing… nothing gets all the green out and I do’t want to put RAD stain over it. Crazy enough, I can see bleached out spots where some RAD stripper solution splashed but when I put the solution straight on to clean it better… nothing. Should I mix up some RAD stripper very concentrated and test? I can’t believe I have some indestructible green in the grain. Ideas?
The stripper will probably not get the deep green out. You can try, but make sure brighten very well when done.
Doing a two-tone deck. Have finished the rails with two coats of RAD classic white solid stain. Ready to finish the deck floor with RAD light walnut. What is the best way to protect the rails so we can do a wet-on-wet on the deck floor using semi transparent light walnut?
Tape or mask the railings where it meets the flooring.
I did the whole 3 step process last summer with mostly great results. The decks came through the winter looking great except for the knots. The knots are really standing out – looking unstained compared to the wood around them. Should I go over the whole deck with stain? Should I spot stain the knots? Do I have to do multiple steps even though it’s only been one year?
Can you post a picture?
pic
It is normal for knots to be lighter in color due to the harder density of the wood of the wood there. Leave as is. Spot adding more will not blend with the rest of the deck and will not darken the knots much or at all.
Do a clean and recoat next year.
Does free USA shipping include the state of Alaska?
Sorry, but we do not ship to Alaska.
I’m restraining a older cedar deck and will be using the RAD Brightener and semi-transparent cedar stain. I ended up having to sand the deck down to remove older stain. Is there a particular grit I should use to allow the stain to penetrate better?
60-80 grit is normal for sanding a deck.
One more.
I stripped, brightened and stained a few years back using RAD products only of course, but there are some high traffic areas of the deck that appear to need a restrain. Do I need to strip as opposed to clean if I used Restore A Deck again? At first I was thinking I could clean and brighten and then stain again but I wanted to double check (trying to avoid the pain of sanding and all that). On the flip side could I just clean the deck with a high pressure hose and then just stain and avoid the clean/brighten? Thanks!
Post a picture of the current condition.
Here are a few.
You could get away with cleaning but stripping would be just as easy and would give a more uniform prep appearance. Brighten all when done.