When working with newly installed wood and decking surfaces, the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain is ideal after 3-6 months of natural weathering. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain’s long-lasting composition works hard to absorb quickly and penetrate deep into the wood grain to withstand the elements and stay true to its beautiful finish long after the staining project is complete.
Before beginning the staining process, it is recommended that new wood surfaces be installed 3-6 months before prepping and staining. To prep new wood surfaces after the waiting period, use Restore-A-Deck Cleaner. It’s concentrated powder formula is cost-effective, easy to transport, and especially good at removing dirt, grime, mold, and mildew that is prone to showing up on new wood surfaces.
Note: Kiln dried and KDAT wood still needs to weather after install. About 1-2 months. Rough sawn cut wood does not need to weather.
After the new wood has been cleaned, the wood will appear slightly darker. To restore the wood and neutralize the pH, use Restore-A-Deck Brightener to lighten it to its original appearance. The RAD Wood Brightener further opens the wood pores for an ideal surface to apply Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain.
Following Restore-A-Deck Wood Brightener, continue with Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain. Unlike other brands of wood stain, Restore-A-Deck’s formula can be applied to wood surfaces following the Brightener on the same day on damp wood or can be applied to dry wood on following days. If applying to damp wood, it is recommended to allow the wood to dry 2-4 hours after prep is complete.
Only 1 coat should be applied to new wood that is less than 9 months old for the RAD semi-transparent stain. A light maintenance coat of the RAD semi-transparent stain should be applied 12-18 months after the first coat was applied. Every 2-3 years after that is normal.
For the RAD Solid Color Stain, apply 2 coats. Reapply as needed down the road.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
If you have any questions, please comment below.
Hi, new pressure treated wood deck, 850 ft². How much stain, cleaner/brightener will I need to purchase?
See this about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
About 5-7 gallons for the one coat.
If it is a new wood why are you saying it takes 7gal for 850sf(2) when you say one coat. The directions for calculating coverage are confusing. The directions say 100-200 sqsf and states 1-2 coats. How much will it cover for 1 coat?
For one coat, you will need 5-6 gallons for most wood types.
I built a new uncovered deck 8 months ago. I used treated pine. The deck has been exposed to the winter weather (snow and ice) and the frequent rain. There are no trees shading the deck and it is exposed to direct sun most of the day. The boards are well seasoned and clean. Do I need to prep with the cleaner and brightener before applying the stain and if so why? I appreciate your help. Thank-you.
Yes, to remove the oxidation and mill glaze. See this about new wood tips: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
I have a 18 x 12 foot new deck with about 16 foot of steps and wood railing with aluminum balusters..how many gallons and prep materials would I need?
See this about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
What is the total sq footage with all flooring, railings, and steps added up?
Probably 350 or so
Just one coat of stain. About 3 gallons and one cleaner/brightener kit.
Can RAD stain be used on black locust lumber?
Yes. Just one coat for hardwoods: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-on-exotic-hardwoods-ipe.html
I am in south Alabama. I have a new deck that was installed in July 18. I did the cleaner/brightener combo one day and stained the deck the next day. I used RAD light walnut. One coat on everything. My vertical surfaces are darker than the floor. It’s been almost a week since I’ve stained. Would it be okay for me to do another coat on the floor? I used a paint brush and back brushed everything so there wasn’t extra stain sitting on top. I don’t want it to peel.
Actually, it looks great! The rail pasts are darker due to the wood. To answer your question, no you cannot add another coat now. Seconds coat if applied need to be applied wet on wet.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
Adding another coat to the already cured first coat of stain would create issues where it cannot soak in. You can clean and reapply another coat though after 91-2 months. It will take then.
Thank you so much!
I’m doing some contracting work and I was wondering if the RAD semi-transparent stain needs to have a reapplication after a certain number of months for both aged wood and newer wood? Just wondering for the customers sake and in case I have to schedule another appointment with the customer for the additional applications.
See this about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
I’m in Northwest Georgia…
I really need to stain my deck and I’ve waited a bit into the winter here. What are the downsides if it gets too cold?
Will it mess it up completely? Will it just not take?
The daytime highs run into the mid 40 to 50s, most overnights it doesn’t freeze.
Can I do it on a weekend where the weather is cooperative?
Thanks!
It needs to be 50-55 during the day. Cannot freeze at night. No rain for 12-24 hours after application at these temps. As long as it soaks into the wood, you will be okay.
I live in North Florida and have a pine deck that was replaced in March 2018 that is roughly 60×16 feet with a total of 14 stairs and a 5×9 landing – see attached pictures. How much cleaner/brightener and stain would I need to prep and stain the deck? Should I apply one or 2 coats, and will the cleaner and brightener harm the stainless steel cable system? Lastly, do you offer a clear stain?
Thanks for your help.
About 8-10 Gallons for the one coat that is needed since the wood is newer. 2 Kits of the Cleaner/Brightener prep. Prep products will not harm the cables. No on the clear and clear sealers will not prevent UV graying.
Thanks for the quick reply.
New deck of pressure treated pine put down in June. Live just outside of Atlanta, GA. Temperature around 50-60s during the day. Temperatures fluctuate a lot this time of year. Can I stain now or have to wait until spring?
You could do now or in Spring. Up to you and if the weather cooperates or not.
We built our deck in April using pressure treated pine, and this past weekend we stained it using the cleaner, brightener and stain. There is a small section on the deck where we apparently didn’t prep the surface well enough because the stain is peeling off. Is there a way that we can patch this small portion?
You can try and sand it off but you will need to do the entire board that is affected. Use 60 grit paper.
Thanks. After sanding, do I just apply stain, or do I need to do the clean/bright process?
Since it is just one board, sand only with 60 grit, no finer.
Generally speaking, is the RAD stain recommended application to pump spray on, then back brush with your stain brush (I bought your stain brush)? Or apply directly with the brush? Doing the horizontal decking only at this time…
Use the brush for best overall results and even appearance.
Thanks for responding. Not to seem dense but you’re saying put the stain on directly with the brush, rather than spraying on and then back brushing?
Correct.
Good deal. Any general tips for using the stain brush?
Not really. Just apply evenly and quickly.
Can you apply your natural stain product over new Western Red Cedar that has been treated with EcoWood ( disodium octoborate tetrahydrate / boron / boric acid system similar to Timbor or Board Defense)?
And can I get one 2.5 gallon?
As long as the surface is porous, you can. We do not offer the 2.5 gallon for sale on this site.
I just finished work on this deck. I flipped all the old boards and replaced 38 that weren’t saveable. After that I pressure washed and chlorinated everything to even out the color. As you can see it went pretty well. I would like to next apply your product to further even out the color and protect the job but am thinking that the difference of absorption between the old and new wood might mean that I should use your natural for the initial application and do a color in the spring. Does this make sense to you? If not, what is your recommendation?
Per the article above, the new wood cannot be stained now. You will have to wait the 3-6 months for natural weathering and then prep all with the Cleaner and Brightener kit. Spring would be best to do this.
The Natural is a tinted stain, not clear and cannot be done until Spring as well.
I just put one coat on new mahogany aged about 4 months. For second application in 12-18 months do I need to use cleaner and brightener, or just one of them, and should this second application be a wet on wet application.
Cleaner only. Just one coat for Mahogany wood. Post a picture of your newly stained deck if you have time.
It did not soak in. Over applied basically to the point, it could not soak in. Best to wait until Spring. Strip, brighten and stain.
2yr old fir T&G porch, stripper for previous oil Storm 1 product, & then brightener & rinsed with hose. After 2 days- it rained- floor has a lot of fuzzy areas- should I hand sand 80 grit the entire surface or just the fuzzy areas? Porch is 13′ x 6′. Can I stain when finished sanding? Thank you
Post a picture of the wood.
I received your email to send pictures & sent 3 pictures showing the fuzzy, the entire porch & a new water stain after the rain. Thanks
Hello, no pictures are attached to your comment above.
we had new deck wood replaced/installed last October 2017 and have had a very rainy summer so have not stained the deck yet. We are fearful we will not get the deck dried to ever stain it before winter. Should we treat the deck before winter and pray next spring we find a dry time to finally stain the deck. I am afraid we are damaging the deck with waiting. HELP PLEASE
You should prep and stain in the same season. Do it all now if the weather cooperates or next Spring if it does not.
I have a deck that is 4 yrs old but was in bad condition. It is in full sun all day. The man I hired has sanded the 2 coats of solid stain, applied RAD Brightener and light walnut semitransparent stain. It looks good but he is suggesting a 2nd coat of stain. I prefer to do another coat summer of next year. Would you advise a second coat now? Thank you
You cannot apply another coat after the first coat has dried. If doing two coats, it needs to be applied wet on wet: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
At this point, you would need to wait for at least 6 months, lightly clean and reapply one light coat but only if needed.
Thank you for your prompt reply
Just installed a new cedar deck. Cedar experts differ on when to apply the stain. Do you still recommend a 3 to 6 month waiting period even for cedar?
Yes.
I sanded some scratches on a new untreated deck. I’m getting ready to use the cleaner, brighter and the stain. Do I need to sand the entire deck since you can see where I sanded?
Probably as the stain may dry unevenly. Do not sand with grit higher than 60 or 80. Clean and brighten after.
Do you recommend the stain pad or the stain brush for application on new mahogany, aged for 3 months.
Either will work very well.
Are you saying there is no need to stain underneath the deck or stairs? No real benefit unless appearance?
That is correct.
I have replaced some old deck boards with new pressure treated white pine. I had already cleaned and brightened the old boards before replacing with new ones. (tree fell on deck and busted boards) I am assuming it is acceptable to stain the old boards and wait to stain the new boards early next Spring?
Best to wait and prep/stain all in the Spring. It will be easier and look better as well.
We have a long wooden wheelchair ramp that was built with new wood 14 months ago and we will be prepping and staining it for the first time. Given its age, do you recommend one coat or two coats of RAD stain? I will be purchasing your products; just need to calculate how much I will need to purchase based on how many coats we should apply.
Two light coats applied wet on wet.
What is the best working temperture for outside staining for the RAD products to dry and set up?
60-85 degrees.
We have a new cedar deck, installed in mid June, in northern Indiana. It is beginning to have a slight gray look to it, but looks like new when rained on. We will be having many people trafficking over the deck dur ing September, and we are concerned about any food/drinks that could get spilled on the unprotected wood. Would it be OK to clean and seal now? If not, will the brightener remove any food/drink stains months later, so not to worry?
It is a little too early to do it now. Best to wait for another month or two. The prep will help with the spills but it depends on what the spill is. Red wine, for example, will not come out.
We were planning to stain all sides of our new cedar decking before installing it, but you recommend waiting for a few months. Is it important to stain the undersides and sides of the board, as we can’t do that after it is installed?
There is no reason to stain all sides and it is actually discouraged. Best to install, wait, prep, and stain the wood that is exposed to the elements.
Are RAD products sold anywhere in Jacksonville, FL? If so, where can I purchase them
They are not. Shipping takes a few business days to arrive in FL.
I built the deck two years ago but is shaded well and was in good condition. No mold or mildew, only slightly graying. Have cleaned and brightened and orbitally sanded wood fuzzies. Lightly washed down. Use one coat or two of stain? Bought enough for two.
How fine of a grit did you sand the wood? That would determine if it will take one or two coats.
I live in Texas. The temperatures have been between 95-110 degree F most of the summer with the exception of the past rainy week. This week is set to be in the 90-96F. With this kind of heat, is it OK to only wait 2 months to stain new wood (vs the suggested 3 months). What differences/problems, etc should I expect if I stain at 2 months (have the time now and may not in another month).
No, you still need to weather the 3 months or more. Heat will not accelerate this process.
When to wipe off stain. Is there a min to max time allowed before wiping off stain after application?
The RAD stain is not back wiped. Just apply evenly without any over application and let dry.
Thanks! Just something else I was doing wrong. Recommend a frequently asked questions list or things not recommended for newbies!
Also, went ahead and started resanding the rest of the deck. Do I need to redo the brightner or use some sort of wood conditioner to keep the stain from splotching? Trying to sand off some of the boards with excessive splotching.
I believe your unevenness is caused be the spot sanding Sand all evenly with no finer than 80 grit. Lightly wash with water and brighten the wood when done.
Help. Splotching!. I must have done something wrong in wood prep. I have a new yellow cedar deck/railings/posts/balusters. Kiln dried wood, 2-3 months of weathering. Minimal sanding except worst spots with 8 grit orbital sander. Used RAD cleaner and brightener before applying stain, about 2 days before stain. Used garden hose to wash off RAD cleaner/brightener, but a lot of white residue remained. Using brush and taking forever on vertical surfaces. I am new to staining. Seems like I need to wipe stain a few seconds after application for less splotching, is this correct? Any recommendations on whether brush, pad or sprayer would help? Should I start over before doing deck surface since only about half done with vertical surfaces?
What equipment (application tools, etc.)? Is a power washer needed? The deck appears to just have surface dust.
Thank you, Suzanne
I live in the Pacific NW and have a cedar deck applied new one year ago. I guess I have to protect it now with first the Cleaner and then the Brightener? Then the stain. I will be doing this myself (67 – female) and would like to know the steps and materials needed before I order. Can you outline for me? Thank you, Suzanne
Prep with the cleaner and the brightener kits and stain with the RAD wood stains after.
I had 13 year old mahogany deck railings pressure washed in June, and then sanded it with 80 grit. Pressure washing was forceful to get rid of built up mold/mildew. Should I treat the railings as new and only put on one coat, or can I put on 2 coats with wet on wet application. Do I need to use cleaner and brightener first. I plan to do the work in mid-September. The deck floor was replaced and will treat as new wood in September at the same time.
Yes, you will need to clean and brighten for the prep. Just one coat of stain.
I have replaced some wood on my old deck. i plan to stain the deck following your instruction now. However; with some new lumbers; I wonder if I should wait 6 months later to strip old ones, clean new ones. Then brighten and stain the whole deck at once? Thanks
Yes, wait 3+ months and do all the prep at once.
In the process of treating a “new” deck that is about 10 months old. Used your cleaner and a power washer. Applied brightner. When the deck dried some areas became visible that had a white appearance. When scrubbed with water the white looks like its been removed, but after the wood dries it becomes visible again. Do I need to fix these areas before applying your cedar stain? If so how? Should I try powerwashing again with or without the cleaner? If so do I need to reapply the brightner? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
That is oxidation of the wood fibers from the sun. That will need to come off with the cleaner. Try to “scrub” a little harder while pressure washing to remove this. It should come off fairly easy.
Curious if you solved the white appearance and how?
Easy to do. Just apply the cleaner and pressure wash off the white oxidation.
John, I repeated the cleaning/brightening process, this time using more force from the pressure washer. I was able to remove the remaining white. I am new to the whole deck maintenance routine, so I think I then did a pretty poor job of staining. Seems like I left a lot of “grit” that tended to pool at the end of my staining. At the ends I was up against the patio door on one end and the railing on the other. See attached picture. I mention this because I’m not sure if the “grit” was due to the fact that I still didn’t sufficiently clean the surface. Or if there is something in the application technique that I am missing. I almost decided to clean again but then thought… well I’ll have to repeat again next year anyways so I will see what happens then. I don’t blame the product… I figure this is some sort of operator error on my part.
I don’t understand. “Weather”how long? Prep with what??
Please read the article as it will explain this. Thanks
Hi-I am building a cabin and will use 6” beveled cedar lap siding (exterior). I want to cost both side of each board prior to attaching to walls. Is this ok or do I need to let it weather for months first? The siding will probably be laying outside in the summer for around a month before I’m ready to stain and install.
Thx
You will need to let it weather and then prep. Cannot be prestained and you will only need to stain the wood that is exposed after install.
Pics
Looks good but is there a “darker” spot in the middle of the floor? The RAD Wood Brightener might help with this. As for the stain, use the RAD Wood Stain. Apply two light coats with wet on wet application: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
Great…thanks! How much brightener and stain do I need? I have a 36×16 main deck and a 12×12 octagon deck below with two sets of stairs and railings all around. Two light coats equals ??? stain?
Please use the deck stain calculator to the right of this comment. Below if on mobile device.
I have a pressure treated pine deck that is 16 years old. It hasn’t been stained in over 10 years. I don’t know what type of stain was on it before or if anything was applied. I pressure washed the mildew away and the wood now looks great…almost like brand new and the wood is in great shape. What do you recommend that I do next?
I have cedar deck, a year old. Do I just do the single coat, or two coats? Thank you!
2 Light coats applied wet on wet.
With the every 2 to 3 year maintenance staining, do you need to strip the deck first or just clean it?
You could do either. Most just clean and recoat.
Have had T & G pine stacked for 15 years and am now sanding it with 120 grit sandpaper before applying it to soffits. Is your product compatible with my needs ?
You are sanding it too smooth for a stain to soak in correctly. 80 grit is the finest it should be sanded. Where is this being installed?
Can an airless sprayer be used?
Yes.
I have an older cedar deck (Age unknown, maybe 10 years?) that we are almost done sanding down to clean wood, and replacing a handful of boards with new ones. How should I handle finishing since I have a mix of old and new wood?
Clean and brighten the wood for the final prep before applying a stain.
Great! I was concerned I needed to let the 5 or 6 new boards weather in place for several months…which wouldn’t be great for the newly sanded old wood.
Have treated pine deck with 20 yrs of Sherwin Wms stains built up that were flaking and discolored. Used RAD stripper with power washer. Only about 20-30% of finish came up — see pic. Should I keep applying stripper coats? If stripper only gets 50-60% up, should I sand the rest? or should I just sand down to bare wood now? If I sand, should I wait 3-6 months before cleaning and applying RAD stain?
The build of SW is excessively thick and a stain stripper will not remove all of this so sanding will be needed. Sand with 60-80 grit and then wait about a month. Clean and brighten for the final prep.
We have let our new deck weather ~ 12 months. Should we wait 12 months after the first coat of stain to apply the second coat?
Since it has been 12 months since installed, you can do the 2 coats applied wet on wet:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
I have a new vehicular bridge with 4″x12″x13′ full dimension pressure treated Douglas Fir decking. Would Restore-A-Deck be appropriate for this application? If so, how long should I let it weather before prepping and applying the Restore-A-Deck? I live in Texas and the bridge is in full sun.
Yes, you can use this on this but take into consideration, if heavy traffic from cars, you will need reapplication sooner rather than later.
See this about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Would this stain work as well right after sanding new(2 month old) redwood?
No. If you sand, you need to weather again and prep with the Step1/Step2. Sanding is not a good way to prep as it will limit the stain’s ability to properly soak in. You want the wood porous and a slightly rough profile for proper performance.
If you recommend not sanding, then will the cleaner and brightener applications remove weathered gray UV coloration? I was going to sand to remove the gray coloration but is this not recommended or needed? I have a pergola made of white and red oak that has weathered for 12 months.
Yes the prep products are designed to remove oxidation graying. Use a pressure washer as well with the cleaner.