When working with newly installed wood and decking surfaces, the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain is ideal after 3-6 months of natural weathering. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain’s long-lasting composition works hard to absorb quickly and penetrate deep into the wood grain to withstand the elements and stay true to its beautiful finish long after the staining project is complete.
Before beginning the staining process, it is recommended that new wood surfaces be installed 3-6 months before prepping and staining. To prep new wood surfaces after the waiting period, use Restore-A-Deck Cleaner. It’s concentrated powder formula is cost-effective, easy to transport, and especially good at removing dirt, grime, mold, and mildew that is prone to showing up on new wood surfaces.
Note: Kiln dried and KDAT wood still needs to weather after install. About 1-2 months. Rough sawn cut wood does not need to weather.
After the new wood has been cleaned, the wood will appear slightly darker. To restore the wood and neutralize the pH, use Restore-A-Deck Brightener to lighten it to its original appearance. The RAD Wood Brightener further opens the wood pores for an ideal surface to apply Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain.
Following Restore-A-Deck Wood Brightener, continue with Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain. Unlike other brands of wood stain, Restore-A-Deck’s formula can be applied to wood surfaces following the Brightener on the same day on damp wood or can be applied to dry wood on following days. If applying to damp wood, it is recommended to allow the wood to dry 2-4 hours after prep is complete.
Only 1 coat should be applied to new wood that is less than 9 months old for the RAD semi-transparent stain. A light maintenance coat of the RAD semi-transparent stain should be applied 12-18 months after the first coat was applied. Every 2-3 years after that is normal.
For the RAD Solid Color Stain, apply 2 coats. Reapply as needed down the road.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
If you have any questions, please comment below.
Some questions. Attached is pic of a white substance that showed up after I wetted down yesterday just with water my two-year old, never been stained pine treated deck. QUESTION 1: What this? Wondering if this was leftover cleaner I was not able to get off well with a garden house a year ago? The cleaner was from cabot for a stain I never applied. Or, could this be substance from the wood still “leaking out” on these boards? QUESTION 2: Assume this will come out when I apply my RAD cleaner? Interesting, new mill glaze showed up on some of my boards after just spraying down the deck with water. QUESTION 3: When I go to apply the RAD cleaner, do I first power wash the boards, to get off as much grime as possible, before I spray on the cleaner? QUESTION 4. Lastly, when you say RAD can be applied when the wood is “damp,” I assume this means when the wood does visibly show water on it, but it feels damp to the touch? I ask because your instructions say wait 2-4 hours for wood surface to dry before applying stain. THANK YOU
1. Not sure.2. It should.3. No need to pressure wash before using cleaner.4. https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
Thanks. So, do I apply the cleaner on the dry wood. Let stand for the required minutes and then rinse off the cleaner with the pressure washer, making sure to hold the wand tip a good foot off the boards so as to not destroy them? Comment: I was a little surprise to see more mill glaze/fuzzies come out today after gently washing some boards.
Apply cleaner to wet or damp wood and then pressure wash off, not rinse. Wash from 8-12 inches away.
In a quandary for time yet again. I have a flight of deck stairs, PT pine, that has boards I am replacing due to fit, and some that are still ok, but need stain. I have RAD solid grey stain. Question is, should I replace the boards, strip old stain and brighten, and do a coat of my RAD stain over all the boards, or just the old boards? The new boards are green PT 5/4 x 6.
You cannot stain the new wood for at least three months and prep.
So I should prep and stain the old boards, then install the new boards and leave them alone?
Yes.
REPLACED NEW 2X6 TOP RAILS ON DECK. SHOULD I CLEAN BEFORE SANDING WITH 80 GRIT PAPER & PALM SANDER AND THEN BRIGHTEN BEFORE STAINING
No need to sand, just follow the directions for new wood.
I have a new outside staircase installed 15 months ago-new wood. Contractor said I should wait at least a year before staining so would I still just do the one coat of semi-transparent now and a second coat in a year? Or should I go ahead and do two coats? Thanks
Two light coats applied wet on wet.
Question on sandpaper: I’ve seen use nothing less than 60 grit paper but in a different posting nothing less than 80. Which do you recommend?
60-80 is correct. No finer.
So EITHER use 6o grit, OR 80 grit?
Yes.
installing a cedar deck should be completed by October 1st – would it be advisable to wait until next spring to do the semi transparent RAD stain (I live in Alberta and the weather can get cooler in October for staining) thanks
You will have to wait until spring to prep and stain.
Installed pine treated deck planks two years ago-two years of MI winter behind them. As attached photos indicate, have brown substance leaking out of some knotts and mill glaze (fuzzies)on some planks. 3 questions 1-assuming I will need a deck cleaner and brightener and if so what do you recommend? 2-Assuming I must sand any planks that have the mill glaze and brown substance coming out of knots. If so, what grit type sandpaper and do I sand after brightener, or after cleaner but before brightener? 3-one coat or two? 4-When it comes to reapplying years later, will a simple cleaner and power washing suffice? Or must I strip deck and sand it? Thanks.
Pressure wash first the Gemini Restore Kit Cleaner. Let dry and sand 60-80 grit. Brighten all after. You will need the Gemini Restore Kit for prep when redoing in the future.
1) After sanding-how to remove dust/debris from surface before staining? 2) Apply one or two coats? 3) Where to buy your product in MI? or it only available online?
1. Use the Brightener after sanding and then rinse well with water.2. One coat if sanding.
3. We are located in Bloomfield Hills MI.
2388 Franklin RdBloomfield Hills, MI 48302
Thanks.
1) Why only apply one coat of TWP 100 after sanding instead of two? I assumed I should put on second coat as directed.2) When you say 60-80 grit, do mean using EITHER 60 grit sandpaper or 80 grit sandpaper?3) If I ordered in a.m. from your online store, is shipping free?4) Do you have next day shipping to Lansing (if I can’t make it down there to purchase in person?5) Hours of operation at your Bloomfield store during week?/May I ask questions to your experts at the story about TWP?
1. Sanding reduces penetration of the stain so only one coat will soak in.2. Either.3. Not sure what you mean by AM? Most items ship free as stated on the website.4. 1-2 days is normal Lansing. We do not ship Next Day.5. 9am to 5pm.
Thanks. Question. After I use the gemini restore a deck cleaner, sand, brightner and apply the first coat to this pressure-treated pine wood that has been exposed to the elements for 2 years and never been stained, should I jus stop after the first coat–or is there a way to determine if a second coat could be applied after first coat? Wait 20 minutes? If so, what is that test?
Just one coat to sanded wood, do not do a second.
Hi, thank you for the help. RE: Restore a Deck semi transparent water based stain-
Here in MI, how long must I wait for deck to dry after applying brightner before applying stain?
do I need 24 hours without rain after one or two coats applied? or 48 hours?
Lowest temperature it can be at night so as to not negatively impact drying time? We’ve been averaging 50 with dew and fog in some places in MI.
Thank you very much.
See this: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
Can take a rain in 4-8 hours.
55 degrees.
About wet on wet:
do 3-4 boards at a time for first coat?
thin first coat and thin second coat? Or liberal first coat and light second coat?
How long to wait until going back to brush or apply second coat?
Do the entire deck and then go back and recoat again within 60 minutes. Two thin coats.
You folks are awesome. Thanks. Here’s my last 2 questions:
Cleaning
1-Power wash deck first, to clean and get off dirt?1-Then, spray on cleaner — a few boards at a time — let sit for recommended time and wash off?
Brightner
I have to let the deck dry after applying the cleaner to sand off some fuzzies/mill glaze that’s been on some boards for some time on my never stained deck. toward this end…
1-wet the deck, apply cleaner few boards at a time, let stand for required time, then rinse off with power washer?
Stain
1-Must I wait for deck to dry –and if so how long — after rinsing off the brightner –before applying the stain?
2-Or, is the stain formulated to be applied while the deck is still soaking wet after rinsing off the brightener?
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1. No. Apply cleaner to all wood than then pressure wash off after about 10 minutes. Rinse well and then brighten all wood. Rinse after 10 minutes.
2. Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood. Never soaking wet.
All instructions are on the website and containers as well.
This is what I did to my powersanded deck – one coat of semi-transparent. Powersand – stripper – brightener – stain. It looks thin. What is the reason for only one coat? Would it hurt for me to put a second coat on?
A second coat will not take to power sanded wood as it will not absorb. You can add another in 6-12 months after prep.
Just finished the clean/brighten/semi-transparent stain on the main deck. Now we decided to put up a wooden privacy wall made from the old pressure treated deck boards that have been rough sanded down. It is installed next to the main deck. Will the clean and brighten treatments harm the newly stained boards of the main deck?
It could so best to avoid it from getting on the new stain.
That’s what I thought. Thanks!The cleaner & brighter work very well. The semi-transparent cedar stain went on a bit blotchy, but I see that I can put a thin coat on next spring to smooth it out. All good!Great products!
Ok, we stained the deck but some of the boards came out uneven. It was hard to tell when applying the stain but some boards are lighter than others…even on the same board. We also opened the second bottle of stain and wondered if that had anything to do with it. We kept it stirred but the end of first bottle seemed more of a chocolate color when we poured it. Is there anyway to correct this? Should we try to go over the lighter areas to even out the stain? Any help is appreciated.
You cannot add anymore now that it has dried. You can lightly wash and apply another coat in the Spring. It should even it out then.
I posted some questions and can’t find them…sorry. I am getting ready to clean, brighten, and use cedar semi-transparent stain (all your products) on our deck. The wood is new though it has been 12 months since built and it is exposed to bright sun. It is graying somewhat but was wondering if you think I still need to use just one coat…especially on the horizontal boards? Secondly, I know the directions say you can apply it wet on wet. Should I do this or is it ok to apply to the deck dry? Is one better than the other? Lastly, we are going to have some more help and will need to get some additional brushes. What type of brush is best used for your water based semi-transparent stain? I have a hard time finding that answer online for some reason. Thank you in advance.
One coat should be fine and we like damp wood as it is easier to apply. https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
Applicators: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/decktools.html
We are making an outdoor table for our daughter out of kiln-dried cedar. She lives in Milwaukee, WI. We have never used your product before. She wants a dark brown tone with gray to get as close to her existing fiberglass table which has failed. See picture below. 1. Is 80 grit the finest sand paper that should be used? 2. Should this new wood be cleaned and brightened? Any suggestions?3. Do you have any suggestions to achieve the look we re trying to replicate?
If you sand, do not sand finer than 80 grit. Yes, you should clean and brighten. It is not possible to achieve this look with exterior wood and deck stains.
I have a new cedar deck (installed 9 months ago). I plan on using the cleaner and brightener then one coat on the bulk of the deck and 2 coats on the inlaid design to make the design darker. The stain I’m using is semi-transparent light walnut. First question, will this allow the design to be darker than the rest of the deck as I hope? Second question, how long should I wait between coats?
You cannot add two coats to new wood and that would not give a large contrast that it will be darker. You would need a darker stain color.
thanks for the quick response
Our deck has been left to weather in full sun and elements since it was built 14 months ago. I am planning to use the cleaner/brightener/2 coats of semi-transparent Cedar stain in the next month or so. I put a rug down about 12 months ago which I now regret due to the huge discrepancy of color from uneven fading. Will the brightener correct this, or would we need to do something in addition to end up with an even-toned finished product?
Only way to fix this would be to strip and brighten for prep.
So use the strip/brighten kit on the whole deck instead of clean/brighten kit? Or just strip the unfaded part and clean the rest?
Yes on all of it.
Another pic
I have a brand new fence installed about a month ago. I believe the fence is pressure treated pine. I noticed this greenish blue stuff on the deck and am curious as to what it is and how to get rid of it before we stain. We have had lots of dry weather where we are since it was installed but it’s Indiana so you get extremes often. What is it and how do I get rid of it? Is it ok to use the restore-A-Deck on this deck when it’s dry?
That is part of the wood pressure treatment. It is embedded throughout the wood so it will not come out fully when you prep. Use the RAD Cleaner and then the Brightener for prep. You can stain on wet or dry wood.
I have a deck built 2 years ago with pressure treated wood. Has not been stained yet. The deck has a curve along a sidewalk and they left the old base board of the deck. It has Deck Restore product on it. How should I prep the deck. I feel I may need the stripper to get the old stuff off the curved portion. I also have a few stains from flower pots sitting on the deck. So I’m not sure if I need the stripper on all of it or just the old wood and use the cleaner and brightener on the new portion?
You will have to sand to remove the Rust-Oleum Deck Restore on the curved section as it cannot be stripped. Clean and brighen all after.
I built a table out of cedar fence materials, so I had to sand the rough posts with sand paper this weekend, used as fine as 150 grit. What products would I use and how long do I have to wait? I live in Texas, and want to protect it as soon as possible, but I’m curious what you recommend.
Treat like new wood to weather for 3 or more months outside and prep just as the above article explains.
how long does pressure treated wood need to weather before i apply your stains?
3+ months as the above article explains.
Couple questions, I bought your crack and groove tool and staining new wood with one coat. I’m also using your brush. Should I use the crack and groove tool first to get between the boards before doing the deck floor? Will the brush work very well on the deck spindles? We have a lot of them! If not, what type of brush do you recommend for semi-transparent stain?
Do the groove tool first and then follow right away with the floor brush. Move quickly. The brush would be too messy for the railings. Use a stain pad.
Oh how I wish I had found this website about a week ago! I think I screwed up my new deck… I have a 6 month old cedar deck, we let weather, and then I started to prep it for sealing. However, I treated it like an old deck (only experience I had) by pressure washing and then sanding the whole thing. Oops! I’ve now learned that is not good for new decks… so now should I either just use brightened to open pores and then 1 coat semi-transparent stain or do I need to wait a month and use the cleaner, brightened, and then 1 coat of semi-transparent stain?? I really want to stain to work well and not mess it up! Thanks!
How fine of a grit did you sand and was it power sanded or hand-sanded?
It was power sanded with 150… I know, way too fine! ??
Give it a month or two and then clean and brighten for prep.
Okay, will do. Thanks for the prompt replies! Your advice to everyone’s comments are super helpful to read!
Just sanded entire deck. Had Behr stain on it but was too difficult to strip so sanded. The deck is 3 years old. Since I sanded do I have to wait like it is new wood or can I proceed with brightener and stain? 1 coat only right?
As long as you did not sand finer than 80 grit, you can then prep and stain with 1 coat.
Ok I used 80 grit but now I am kind of nervous if I should wait a little while. You think it will be fine though? What could happen? No penetration?
You can wait a month or two and do it in the late Sumemr or Fall. No issues.
We have a 15 yr old redwood deck that we replaced half the boards on last summer. We have just cleaned, brightened and sanded. Do we now apply one or two coats of semi-transparent stain? Also, do we need to wipe off any excess stain that isn’t absorbed and if so, how long do we wait to do that. Thank you.
Just do one coat on this newer wood. You do not back wipe excess, just apply evenly and make sure to not puddle it or over apply.
Because we’ve sanded you’re considering the entire deck new, so only one coat? Just making sure. Thanks for the info on “back wiping,” didn’t realize that was what you called it.
Yes, just one coat for newer wood and sanded wood.
Thanks much!!
I have a 15 year old deck that had previously had the Rustoleum Restore product on it. I had to use a heat gun and belt sander to remove. So I have completely sanded deck which I’ve also cleaned and brightened.
I purchased your RAD Semi-Transparent Stain in Cottage Gray and applied a single coat today. It seems very light after application; I’m guessing I need a second coat but surprised given your instructions where I should treat sanded wood as new wood and only a single coat required.
Did I do something wrong?
Could be how fine of a grit you sanded. The smoother you sand, the lass the stain will absorb and that will result in lighter colors. Only one coat for sanded wood is correct.
I started with 40 and finished with 80. What would you suggest I do now? Would a second coat help or hurt?
You cannot add another coat now, it will not take and it would not darken it up much or at all. Best to lightly clean off dirt and apply another coat next Spring.
Do I need to use the stripper or cleaner for prep? Deck was last stained with One Time Wood clear stain about 10 years ago. Deck was stripped prior to applying One Time Wood product. The One Time Wood product is no longer visible. Thanks.
Strip and then brighten for prep.
I’m getting ready to start sanding a deck, and want to know what product I should use after to prep wood before solid staining.
Use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kits.
Hello – I have a new deck with tiger wood railings – the top surface of the railing has black spots all over it – it’s been pretty dry here so I don’t think it’s mildew – maybe tannin stains from pollen? How do I treat this? Will your cleaner remove these stains? I’m spot testing with oxyclean which also has percarbonate. Also – for the red in tiger wood, is the natural semi transparent stain the way to go or do you recommend something else? Planning to stain early fall to give the wood the weathering time it needs. I don’t want to change the color at all, just keep the natural red. Thanks in advance!!
Send some pictures. Most use the Light Walnut color but you can use any. You must use a stain for UV protection from graying and that means the color will be enhanced. It is impossible to have a clear (no color at all) and protect the wood from graying.
Sounds good re: stain/UV protection and see attached photos for the black spots. The areas where the railing is covered by something (porch, umbrella) the black spots are non-existent, which makes me think it’s a reaction in the wood to something floating around in the air. I spot tested with oxyclean and a different spot test with bleach, and neither made any difference in removing the spots. Sigh. Our deckers don’t know why this happened either. Thanks for your help.
Looks like rust spots form some kind of metal that got in the wood. Prep with the cleaner first and then the brightener. If it is indeed rust, then the brightener will remove it.
Photo 2/3
Photo 3/3 (sorry for the multiple posts, tried to attach all three to my reply and only one showed up)
This photo is near a rose bush and and the spots are worse here vs other places on the railing
I have used the RAD system for a new deck built in 2020. First application of TWP 1500 stain done last summer, second application using cleaner and brightener this Spring. I have mildew developing on the deck surface. ( I can take it off with a scrubby pad, so I know it is on the surface.) What should I use to clean the mildew/mold off with? Your cleaner diluted 2-3 oz. per gallon? Does it have an ingredient to prevent mildew/mold growth? If not is there a product you would recommend to prevent mildew mold growth?
Try a product called Wet and Forget. Spray on and let dry. Supposed to help clean and prevent mildew.
I am building a pergola using rough cut Douglas fir, structural select grade. I prefer to stain it before assembly. I also intend to use a hvlp sprayer for the staining. It sounds like your product would be suitable for this project. Do you have any comments? How much product will I need to cover approximately 1700 square feet of surface area? Thank you.
If it is rough sawn then you can pre-stain. About 10-15 gallons.https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-5-gallon/flypage.tpl.html
Your advice seems to be the most consistent and timely. I also like the idea of – and hope to order – the sample stains.I am planning to build a pergola/ “veranda” type porch cover. Cedar wood I got is rough-sawn and appears to have been stored (poorly) for a time. It has dark, “purpleish” stripes and blotches (Photo Cedar 1) as well as dark, dirty areas which I thought might be mold (Photo Cedar 2).I tried a Valspar cleaner (oxalic acid) which seemed to lighten some stains but not entirely, even with repeat cleaner and some scrubbing. Most of it seems to be in the top 1/8 inch or so of the surface, but some spots deeper. I also tried a mold-remover which made little if any difference.I sanded out some of the lighter stain spots with 80grit, but most of it all would likely show through the semi-transparent stain I would like to use, especially since some are patterns of other boards or straps.Then, I came across RAD and your Q&A.I suppose I could deep sand the lumber to clean wood, and go through the long process of weathering etc. I prefer of course some way of removing the stains if any possible.I could consider solid stain to cover it up as a last resort.I will appreciate your suggestions for a good, effective way to proceed.Thanks,Ed
You will probably not be able to clean or brighten out the strap marks as they are deep in the rough sawn wood grain. Sanding would be hard as well to remove all and if spot sanded, it would leave the wood blotchy. RAD Solid stain would work to cover it and give an even appearance.
I have a new deck with pressure treated railings and Trex horizontal surfaces. I will be using solid white on the vertical surfaces. Do I have to protect the Trex from the Cleaner and Brightener during prep?
No need.
Do I still have to strip and brighten if I sanded down to bare wood?
Clean and then brighten after sanding. One coat of stain on sanded wood.
My son stained my deck and applied 2 coats. Will this cause it to peel?
Probably not as long as the stain fully soaked into the wood grain.
I stained the deck railings last year. I followed your instuctions by waiting 8 months to treat new wood then followed the remainder of you instruction for staining new wood. As you can see by the attached pictures I’m seeing peeling in a number of areas. how do I go about re applying the stain?
Prep with the Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener kit and apply one coat of the RAD Stain.
I have hired someone to powerwash and then sand our 25 yr old cedar screened porch floor. After he’s done, will it work to brighten, rinse well with a hose and then apply 1 coat of semi-transparent stain? Or do I need two coats? I’m not sure of products that will be used for washing. Does that matter if it is being sanded afterward anyway?
Just one coat and best to use both the Cleaner and the Brightener to open up the pores.
Looking to install an ipe dock. Can I finish the boards prior to install so that the underside has a coating and hopefully leases a the chance of cupping?
No, you cannot pre-stain. New wood has to weather and be prepped and only stain the exposed side. Staining the undersides would not prevent cupping anyhow.
I’ve got a pressure treated deck. Its new construction and its weathered for 1 year. I’ve already pressure washed it and plan to sand it down as it was rougher than I’d like to begin with. I’d planned to buy stain from the local hardware store and just stumbled on your site. I see you recommend your cleaner and brightener. Considering mine has been cleaned and sanded, would it be acceptable to skip the cleaner and brightener and just do the stain?
No, you should prep to be certain that the RAD stain fully soaks in. Make sure to never sand too fine. 60 grit is best. You would do the final prep after with the Cleaner and Brightener.
I am staining a fence of pressure treated wood that is approximately 3 years old but has never been stained or sealed. How many coats of your semi transparent stain should be applied?
2 coats applied wet on wet.https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
I am similar to Cindy, My pressure treated pine deck is two years old. Assume I use your Cleaner, brightener, sand with 60(?) or 80 (?) grit paper to remove mill glaze/fuzzies? If so, when to sand? Do I A: apply the cleaner, then brightener, let deck dry for a day, then sand? r is is B) cleaner, let deck dry for a day, sand, then apply brightener, let deck dry for a day before applying your product? Lastly in looking at attached pics, do I apply one coat, or two coats of your product? If two coats, use the wet on wet method? Thanks.
Sand only if needed and this after cleaner, before brightener. If you sand, then only 1 coat of stain
Why only apply one coat if I sand? Are you not supposed to apply two coats? And if you say only one coat then do I apply second coat next summer or fall? And if so, what would be the prep routine? cleaner and brightner? Or just cleaner?
When you sand wood you close the pores of the wood. Only one coat if you sand so it is not over-applied. You can apply another coat as needed after 6 months and clean/brighten prep.
I have a 3-month old deck. Are you saying that there is no need to sand it if I am using Restore-a-Deck?
Correct. The RAD prep kit will remove the oxidation and mill glaze.
Thanks. Most of my deck is covered. It’s never going to get full exposure to sun/rain. Should I wait longer than 3 – 6 months for weathering?
No need.
how to stain with a combination of old and new cedar and new pressure treated wood on the steps?
Weather the new wood and then prep all at the same time before staining.
I recently redid my deck (last fall) using Western red Cedar with aluminum a ballister’s. I normally clean with our RAD. However I noticed a warning that the product can damage metal. If this is indeed the case is there a work around? I cannot remove and reinstall every time I clean the deck.
Test spot first but it should be fine.
I have a new pressure treated deck installed June last year and will stain it this month, should I apply 1 or 2 coats of semi transparent stain? I will be using your cleaner, brightener and stain.
1 coat.
I have a new deck (installed 8 months ago). It is Western Red Cedar. The decking has a design (Celtic Knot) which I plan on staining a darker stain than the rest of the decking. I plan on using the semi-transparent in the Natural for the bulk of the deck and a darker semi-transparent stain for the design. I plan on using the cleaner and brightener before applying the stain. Do you recommend 1 or 2 coats of the stain for my application?
1 coat for all areas on this newer wood.
We want to do the “light maintenance coat” of semi transparent stain this year. Do we have to prep the deck with anything or just go straight to the stain?
You always have to prep when re-coating. Use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener.
how long to weather cedar fencing before using restore-a-deckstain semi-transparent
See article above on new wood.
I have an entrance ramp that needs to be cleaned and stained. I just had the railing top piece of wood replaced.
Question: Should I cover those new railing top pieces of wood before I use your cleaner and brighter on the rest of the ramp wood? After cleaning I intend to use your Natural semi transparent stain on the ramp. Question: Am I to do 1 or 2 coats of stain on the older ramp wood after cleaning?
Many thanks.
-No reason to cover the new wood. 2 Coats wet on wet for the older wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
Great news, thank you.How much of your semi transparent stain do I need if I am covering the ramp that is: 3″ x 30″ with 2 coats?Also a deck that is:13’x 27′ with 4 steps and a walkway that is: 4’x 30’Many thanks again.
About 5-7 gallons should cover all wood.
I am getting ready to use the stripper and brighter. I have an outside shower that has a composite wood floor and a painted door, do I need to protect these from the Stripper touching them?What about stainless steel handles, do they need to be protected as well from the stripper and or brighter?Many thanks.
They all should be fine. Just rinse well when done.
we are installing a rough sawn hemlock pavilion (up to 8X8 timber) and were wondering if RAD is the right product for this application? can this be applied prior to install or should it weather first for some time? thanks.
The RAD stains would work very well for this! Since it is rough sawn wood, you can stain now.
I have a very large deck that is 12 years old we just power washed it and replaced a couple boards. It was previously treated with oil base amber tint. Since I put the new boards on can I use your stain now
No, you will need to weather and prep the new boards.
We have a new pressure treated pine roof deck that was installed last summer (Chicago). It has been weathering approx. 9 months now. Should we apply 1 or 2 coats of stain?
One coat. Make sure to prep with the RAD Cleaner and Brightener.
We used the diamabrush tool to remove old stain on our seven year old deck. Do I need to wait to clean, brighten and stain? Thank you!
Wait about a month and then prep and stain.
Hi! So my painter started prepping the redwood deck that was installed about 6 months ago and before I knew it had it completely sanded. Do we now need to let it weather again?! Do we still use the cleaner and brightner? Please advise!
Yes, for 1-2 months and then clean and brighten for prep.
I just purchased a custom made table for our deck. The top is untreated new pine. I plan to stain the top with semi transparent Dark Walnut. Should I let the table weather for several months then follow the clean/brighten/1 coat of stain process for new wood? With untreated pine, is one coat of semi transparent sufficient to both stain and properly seal the table?
Thanks.
Yes, weather and then prep before applying the 1 coat. Additional coats will not penetrate new wood. You can clean and re-coat annually for this table.
Thanks for the quick reply. I just checked the moisture content of the pine and it is ~7%. Any need to weather additionally or should that be dry enough to stain now?
It has nothing to do with moisture % but porosity of the new wood. You still have to weather and prep.
Got it. Thanks. Given the wood is untreated, will the semi transparent stain work as a sufficient sealer or do I need to seal separately after staining?
You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain, it will peel. No need.
Thanks