When working with newly installed wood and decking surfaces, the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain is ideal after 3-6 months of natural weathering. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain’s long-lasting composition works hard to absorb quickly and penetrate deep into the wood grain to withstand the elements and stay true to its beautiful finish long after the staining project is complete.
Before beginning the staining process, it is recommended that new wood surfaces be installed 3-6 months before prepping and staining. To prep new wood surfaces after the waiting period, use Restore-A-Deck Cleaner. It’s concentrated powder formula is cost-effective, easy to transport, and especially good at removing dirt, grime, mold, and mildew that is prone to showing up on new wood surfaces.
Note: Kiln dried and KDAT wood still needs to weather after install. About 1-2 months. Rough sawn cut wood does not need to weather.
After the new wood has been cleaned, the wood will appear slightly darker. To restore the wood and neutralize the pH, use Restore-A-Deck Brightener to lighten it to its original appearance. The RAD Wood Brightener further opens the wood pores for an ideal surface to apply Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain.
Following Restore-A-Deck Wood Brightener, continue with Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain. Unlike other brands of wood stain, Restore-A-Deck’s formula can be applied to wood surfaces following the Brightener on the same day on damp wood or can be applied to dry wood on following days. If applying to damp wood, it is recommended to allow the wood to dry 2-4 hours after prep is complete.
Only 1 coat should be applied to new wood that is less than 9 months old for the RAD semi-transparent stain. A light maintenance coat of the RAD semi-transparent stain should be applied 12-18 months after the first coat was applied. Every 2-3 years after that is normal.
For the RAD Solid Color Stain, apply 2 coats. Reapply as needed down the road.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
If you have any questions, please comment below.
We used the RAD stripper, cleaner/brightener & stain last year. Neighbor is paying to have 20 year old cedar fence replaced w/PT pine on 1/3 of our fence, today. Will be moving overseas in Jan/Feb, and want to stain the new pine before leaving. We live near Nashville, TN and want to know if staining in early Jan will be ok. If so, anything other than stain needed on the new pine?
Should be fine as long as you weather, prep, and stain as explained in the article.
Hello, we are in the process of restoring our large deck. We had some bad boards replaced (redwood), and the rest of the deck sanded down. Then, we applied your cleaner and brightener to all. Now we are ready to apply the stain. However, I am just waking up to the fact that some of the boards are NEW wood, and have not been weathered, as recommended. My question: if we stain the whole deck now, then come back next year and add another coat, will that be ok for the new boards, or will the premature application of the first coat ruin the new boards for taking up the second coat next year?
Thank you!
Just prep and stain all in the Spring. Do not stain the new wood now.
Thanks so much for your prompt reply! I realize that waiting to do all the staining in the Spring would be ideal. But we would prefer to protect the old wood (30 years old!) before winter here in the Colorado foothills. Can you help me understand HOW bad it would be to stain the new wood now? Would it make it so the boards would never take the stain right or something?
I do not think we can get the crew to stain around the new boards. If we did stain the whole deck, should we strip the new boards of the RAD before cleaning and adding a new coat to the whole deck in the spring? If we did that, would we then need to let them weather for 3-6 months, after the stain is off? How much additional benefit would we gain if we did this, as opposed to just adding an additional coat to them in the spring?
Please help me understand why the wood needs to weather first– that will help me make a decision. Is it that weathering dries it out, leaving more room for the stain to penetrate?
I greatly appreciate your willingness to help with all these individual variations and concerns, and to set it up so we can read others’ posts as well. I’ve learned a lot! This is a valuable benefit of using your product.
It is not an issue to leave your older wood unstained through one Winter so the best is to prep and stain all in the Spring. If you do it now, you will end up stripping and redoing it all again in the Spring.
Can i use RAD on a 1 year old rough cut cedar deck that was originally stained with oil based stain? There are some high traffic areas where the surface looks bare and i dont want the wood to grey.
No, you have to remove the old stain when you switch stain brands.
My deck wood is 2×6 cedar. Stainless steel screws were used. It is 15 years old. It was cleaned with tsp and bleach and sealed with a light oil-based cedar tone semi-transparent stain 10 years ago. Last fall I used Restore a Deck Stripper and Brightener with a power washer. The result was the wood blotchy. My house is at the beach in Oregon. Cold weather and rains set in with fall and I determined to not move forward with the staining. Over the spring and summer, the deck turned light uniform grey. I have sanded the grey off the wood with an orbital sander so it now looks like dried cedar.
I have just finished sanding and it looks like the weather will hold for the next 10 days. Can i used the Restore a Deck stain I purchased last fall to proceed without preping with cleaner or brightener.
Yes, you can.
Deck is Yellawood flooring, rails, pickets, almost 2 years old and unstained. Cleaned in May but unable to complete project at that time and plan to do full prep. I have RAD cleaner, brightener, semi-transparent stain.
1. Any special suggestions for Yellawood? One or two coats of stain for new wood over 9 months old?
2. Several grease spots 3-7″ long under grill. Any suggestions? It will be covered up again but would like for stain to “take” in those spots if possible.
Thanks!
1. One coat.
2. Grease if deep into the wood grain will not come off with prep. You can stain over it.
What will happen if I use RAD on new pressure treated wooded benches that are only about a month old? The wood appears to be pretty dry. No telling how long it sat in the lumberyard prior.
Thanks
Dave
If you do not follow the directions for new wood then your stain could prematurely fail.
Thank you for rapid delivery of semi-transparent stain samples, which arrived today. We’re going to apply to scrap wood before the day is done. Our new second-story deck, made of pressure-treated pine, is split level; one section is 27’7″x8’10”, the other (one step down) is 16’7″ x 13′, with eleven 3’9″x11.25″ steps (with risers) and five piers 5.5″x5.5″x7’3″; vinyl rail. The front stoop is 94.5″ x 59.5″, no rail. How much cleaner, brightener, & stain should we order for the first treatment?
The deck floor was completed on 7/7/22 and the stoop on 7/21/22. Recommended 3-month weathering puts us out to October, when we won’t be able to do the work, and also too late for your 2022 stain contest. Would it be better for us to hope for good weather in November, or wait until early 2023 to order and do the process?
What is total sq footage added up? Best to prep and stain in spring.
Here’s our math for total sq footage:
horizontal deck surface (459 sq ft) x2 (top & bottom) = 918 sq ft
steps & risers (66 sq ft x2) = 132 sq ft
joists = 610 sq ft
piers = 66 sq ft
stoop = 40 sq ft
Total = 1,766 sq ft
Why are you doing the joists and posts and underneath? There is no reason to outside of appearance.
Thought we had to stain all wood, including under side of the deck, in order to protect it. We’re in northeastern Pennsylvania, which is fairly humid. Below the deck there’s bluestone patio, which is utilitarian for us, not a place where we entertain. We don’t want any more work than necessary!
No need to do it unless you want for appearance. 99% do not bother.
Good. Our revised figures are: deck surface (459 sq ft) + facing (53 sq ft) + steps (66 sq ft) + posts (66 sq ft) + front porch/stoop (40 sq ft) = Total of 684 sq ft. It appears that one RAD Semi-Transparent Wood Stain (5 gal) and Cleaner/Brightener Combo Kit can cover 750–1000 sq ft, and would be sufficient. Is that correct?
Yes, that is correct.
Thank you very much. We’ll order & use in early 2023.
I used RAD cyprus solid after prepping an old deck with RAD stripper/brightener. A second coat is recommended on horizontal surfaces. Is there a time limit on how long after the first coat that this can be applied?
Try to stain within a day or so for the second coat to avoid dirt, etc.
Can I use a Sherwin Williams deck prep with this or do I need to use this specific brand and system start to finish?
The same brand of prep for the proper results.
Just installed new cedar railing with black aluminum spindles. Is this product safe for painted aluminum? What do you advise?
Do not get the stain on your black spindles when applying. it will look messy if you do.
We have ordered several Restore a Deck products to redo our deck. As part of the project, we have to rebuilt some of the deck with new boards (could be treated or untreated). I have read the information about waiting for new boards to weather several months before staining. Is there any product that I could use during the rebuilding part to help preserve the wood before staining. That is, sealing the ends or other cut sections and the backs, edges etc. What about something like Thompson’s Water Seal or is there another product you would recommend to help seal the wood before the rebuilding prevent access to these surfaces? Or could we just use some of the stain (RAD semi-transparent dark walnut) on the ends and other cut surfaces?
No, do not apply anything to the wood during the natural weathering. No need to stain end cuts but you can if you want.
Is it better to apply the RAD semi transparent stain 2-4 hours after brightening/washing (while still damp), or to wait till the next day when it’s slightly more dry?
Either is okay: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
I have a 10 mo. old “new” cedar fence that has started to weather and gray- 140 ft. x 6 ft tall. After cleaning and brightening, how many gallons of semitransparent will I need for both sides?
About 15-20 gallons for both sides and two coats applied wet on wet.
Upload some pics of your prep so far.
Here are a few Photos of the deck boards after my prep. Thank you for the samples I received them and deciding on which one will do the best on our deck. In the photos I thought lighter stain however I’m now leaning towards darker stains
It looks ready for stain.
Is any prep needed for staining new Japanese cedar (cyprus wood) fence, boards are horizontal and rough cut?
No prep is needed if rough-sawn cut and the wood is clean and free from graying.
We just stained our weathered cedar deck with RAD after cleaning and brightening. We only applied 1 coat but it looks like 2 would have been better (it weathered for 1.5 years). The 1st coat is now dry. Can I apply a 2nd coat even though not wet on wet?
Not right now. In 6-9 months you can lightly clean and apply another coat.
I am preparing to stain a new western red cedar railing made with high quality kiln dried wood. I will be using Armstrong Clark Semi-Transparent and understand I need to wait a couple of months. Moisture reading is ok at this time and the trim seems ready to take the stain. Top boards have mill glaze. I figure in 4-6 weeks I will work on the mill glaze.
1. Am I correct that I use RAD cleaner (scrubbing gently) to get the glaze off?
2. And immediately then use the brightener?
3. If this causes the fuzzies I sand and then re-brighten? Is that correct?
4.How much time can elapse between this prep and the staining?
Thanks!
1. Use a pressure washer lightly after using the cleaner is the best way.
2. Yes.
3. Correct
4. For the Armstrong, wait 48 hours after prep and stain within 2 weeks of prep.
I’m afraid to pressure wash new cedar! I’ve ruined wood before. Is scrubbing not adequate for removing mill glaze? Thx.
You can scrub but much easier to use a pressure washer.
Hi! I had new porch post installed 6 months ago pressure treated pine. I was told to wait a few months to stain. I’m pretty sure they are rough cut as they are not smooth?
Do I need to prep these in any way before staining? I also had gables installed to my home 3 months ago that I plan on staining the same color. Pressure treated pine as well but the wood looks smooth. None of the wood is gray and I’m assuming I’m okay to stain? Would appreciate any advice / feedback.
Prep with this: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/best-restore-a-deck-prep-products/restore-a-deck-package-300/flypage.tpl.html
Stain with this: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-1-gallon/flypage.tpl.html
Does it need to be cleaned and brightened?
Yes, for best results.
I appreciate your help. I’m trying to achieve a color similar to this in the picture & I’m staining pine? I’m not sure if I should go with light walnut or dark walnut? Opinion?
Dark Walnut most likely but colors do vary based on wood type and age of the wood.
Hello – two quick questions on prep:
1) Last year I stripped/scraped/sanded badly worn solid stain from deck surface. Turned out to be a couple of coats under there – not fun. I applied a single coat of RAD grey-semi after cleaning/brightening. I will be applying a second coat to darken and even out color. After washing the first coat from last year, should I apply brightener prior to applying the second coat this year?
2) I will be doing a two tone scheme with the railings using RAD white-solid. Current railings are a mix of older semitransparent stained pressure treated wood and unstained PT wood repairs. As prep for the RAD solid stain on these railings, is it best to use brightener as well?
Even the single coat of RAD grey-semi held up well over winter and looks good. Application was easy. Very happy with the RAD products so far.
1. No need for a brightener if you have a base coat.
2. Strip and Brighten the railings.
We have an old cedar deck that was stripped and power sanded (finer than 80 grit) a year ago and want to apply your semi-transparent stain.
1. Should we still apply only one coat of stain bc it was sanded, even though a year has passed since then?
2. Also, some of the deck boards are more weathered than others due to one side being exposed to more sun. What tips do you have to ensure that the applied stain will look uniform?
1. Clean and brighten with RAD prep products first and then apply 2 coats wet on wet: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
2. Clean and Brighten all wood.
Thanks, that was an amazingly quick reply!
We built a new back deck in November of 2019 and had a roof over it built in December 2019. The contractor told us to go ahead and stain it before adding the roof and we did using the Restore-A-Deck stain. We used the cleaner and brightner then stained it. I know we should have waited for the wood to cure before staining but he insisted. The stain of course didn’t penetrate the wood and we need to restain it. What is the procedure for doing this. Do we need to clean and brighten again and then stain?
Best to strip and brighten since it never had a chance to fully soak in the first time.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/order-restore-a-deck/rad-kits-best-price/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/flypage.tpl.html
2 1/2year old cedar used RAD semitransparent after 9 months stripped and brightened first – suggestions on how to proceed- thanks! John
Use the RAD Stripper and Brightener Kit for prep before recoating.
I have a stainless steel wire railing system on my 3 year old pressure treated pine deck running through 4×4 PT posts. I used Armstrong Clark semi transparent stain on the deck and posts. The deck and posts still look pretty good, but I think it’s time for maintenance. I want to apply a second coat of the stain to the posts without cleaning and brightening but clean, brighten and re-stain the deck surface. Q1. Will your cleaner and brightener cause any harm to the stainless steel? Q2. Should I do any masking or the steel wires or of the posts where they meet the deck so I don’t get splash up and color variation from the cleaner/brightener when I stain?
You cannot apply more stain without doing the prep. You need to prep all the wood that is being stained. Prep does not harm the stainless steel.
I have a weathered deck that doesn’t appear to have ever been painted or stained. This is a south facing deck and it lives a hard life. I replaced some boards with new pressure treated wood. I need to get this deck stained this season and can’t wait months for the new boards to weather. I can handle spot repainting and color variations but don’t want to have a total failure to adhere.
What is the failure mode when applying to new wood?
It will not soak in as well and will need a recoat in less than a year. It will also stain lighter in color for the new wood.
I stripped, cleaned and stained my deck last year using all your products. I have a few green spots scattered a few places on the deck. What do I use to just spot clean these places?
Many thanks
Try a product called Wet and Forget to remove the green spots.
Our PT deck was installed last June. We won’t be able to get to our prep/staining in our Northern Minnesota location until end of May or early June. Does that fall under the “new” deck category? Will we need 1 or 2 coats of RAD semi-transparent stain after using the cleaner and brightener? Thanks for your help.
Not new since almost a year old. 2 light coats applied wet on wet: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
I have a pressure treated new dock 10 months old 170feet by 5feet
It has nothing on it and has weathered thru the winter.
I want to use the grey semi transparent
How many coats? How much product do I need? Thanks
Sorry, we did not see this question until today. 2 coats applied wet on wet. 1 Gallon should be enough.
Thanks for the awesome website! I have a few questions if your don’t mind.
1. RAD is your second best choice, above all the other oil based stains that you like?
2. When I reapply in 9 months, I don’t have to strip this water based sealer? It doesn’t create a film or anything? I just need to clean a bit, and put on a new coat?
3. I have rough sawn pickets. One side is really rough, the other is smoother, but still not perfectly smooth (see attached picts). I also have 2″x4″ that say they are rough sawn, but are smoother than the pickets. I have then in a barn, and I’m using dehumidifiers and a large fan to get the wood down to 15% moisture (since I was going to use an oil based stain). Also, the boards were really wet, so I don’t want them to dry out fast in the sun.
Questions:
a. I don’t have to weather the boards since they are rough sawn?
b. You said it was better to apply RAD to boards that are more moist, maybe even wet. Is this just because you got more coverage? Or am I degrading the process by drying out the boards?
c. Is it bad to back brush RAD in?
Thanks again! Best website I’ve found!
1. RAD is our top choice for stains.
2. No need to strip, just clean and recoat. It will last much longer than 9 months on your pickets. 2-3 years or longer.
3a. No need to weather.
3b. No, you are not degrading the boards. Applies easier to damp wood, not better coverage.
3c. No, but do it right away.
Wow! So impressed with this site. Two follow up if I may?
1. The grain is pretty high, which I like. I assume back brushing is the best. Or is pad the best? Something else? Is back brushing even necessary?
2. So there is no disadvantage to dryer wood?
I’ve been googling for a while, and this site is helped so much.
Thanks!
1. Pad or brush is fine. You do not have to back brush unless you are spraying and you have drips.
2. No.
I definitely plan in spraying. Is there a best sprayer? Is a just a hand pump pressure sprayer good enough?
Any quality pump sprayer will work: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/sprayers/chapin-clean-stain-sprayer/flypage.tpl.html
What’s the minimum temperature for application and overnight dry time?
45 degrees.
is the lowest apply temperature or the lowest for overnight/ 24 hours time frame? I was planning on doing this Saturday and daytime temps when I would do this would be 56, but the overnight low will be 30. Should I wait for another time when the temps don’t ever drop below 45?
45 is the minimum temp for application. It can drop below that at night as long as it has 4-6 hours of dry time prior. It cannot drop below freezing the first night.
My cedar fence is 4 months old, can i just pressure wash then use RAD semi-transparent stain or is it better to use the cleaner and brightener before staining.
Use the Cleaner and Brighener while pressure washing for proper prep.
I am building a deck on my home and I have sawn, kiln dried and milled white oak boards for the decking. The wood has acclimated and has an acceptable moisture content for exterior use in my region (wood is at 15-16% and I’m in the Carolinas). This wood has not been pressure treated and has been sanded to 80 grit. Reading through your installation instructions I believe I can use Restore a deck without weathering at this point but wanted to ask if I needed to prep the wood any way before staining. Also do you feel like restore a deck is the optimal choice for staining this project?
You still need to weather. It is not about moisture % but porosity. For kiln dried wood, weather for 1-2 months and then prep with the RAD Cleaner and the Brighener Kit.
I have a 5 year old PT deck that has never been sealed or stained. Do I follow “new wood” process and do only 1 coat or would it need two? Thanks!
2 coats.
I’m using new “rough cut” cedar board and batten for my exterior siding. Just to clarify, do you need need to use the cleaner and/or brightener to prep new wood prior staining with semi-transparent stain ? Or, if the wood is pressure washed and cleaned lightly prior to stain application, will this be considered adequate preparation ?
Thank you, JW
Not needed to use the prep products for new rough sawn wood.
I have to build a structure which is rough sewn cedar 6×6 posts complemented with some KD18 PT wood. I plan to use solid stain all around, in two different tones, one for the posts, one for the PT parts.
Questions:
1. If I hand plane the cedar (not sand), is it considered smooth and I have to wait 3 months? how long should i wait before entire structure can be done at once?
2. What is the expected moisture content for Cedar and PT wood, before I can stain?
3. I live in south texas and since summer is coming, can I apply during summer, if i start early in the morning before full heat? Assume 90-95F and 80-90% humidity worst case. No exposure to salt water, but there is direct sun.
1. Yes, it will be smooth so you will need to weather and wait as stated above.
2. Does not matter.
3. Yes, as long as it is below 90. Not above.
Thank you. Just to clarify, for how many hours does it have to be under 90, once the stain is applied?
Couple. See this for some tips as well: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-hot-sun-application.html
I installed a cedar fence with treated pine runners in November. How long do I have to wait before I can clean and stain my fence with your cleaner and restore a deck semitransparent stain. I don’t want my fence to turn gray before I can stain.
Hi, the above article explains this and it does apply to fences as well.
We have a ton of redwood fencing to stain and plan to use a sprayer for the first time. Any tips on applying with a sprayer? Also, the top quarter of the fence is woven lattice which looks like it could be tricky to stain correctly. Let us know if you’d recommend a different application method for that section.
Spray evenly and back brush any drips or runs right away. Spraying lattice is the easiest way.
Planning to prep and stain a 50 ft long fence. Should I prep in sections to avoid having the cleaner/brightener sit too long before powerwashing? Or is it okay to apply in one go?
Do one side and then the other side. Brightener after the cleaner.
When is it good to do 2 coats? It’s an 8-year old premium grade redwood gate that has just been sanded to super clean.
Sanded wood is only one coat.
Hi, I’m in the Pacific Northwest. We installed a new cedar deck in July 2021. I see above that the wood stain is best after 3-6 months of weathering. It rains frequently here. Is it ok to wait until summer or should we try to catch a dry few days now to be able to stain within the 6 months to stain?
Waiting until next Spring to prep and stain is fine.
Novice here, this may be a stupid question but do I need to apply a sealer on top of the RAD stain?
No need.
I did the one coat only to a new deck last year and now I am ready to do the second coat. Do I use just the cleaner and brightener then stain. I don’t use the stripper correct?
Clean and brighten. No stripper is needed.
I’m staining a shed built with rough cut pine. The siding was installed 8 months ago. We ran out of cleaner/brightener with about 20 square feet left. This is up at the roof line and now looks the same as the rest of the wood (which) has been prepped. I’m racing the clock with both the two week window and cold temps and need to stain thursday. What should I expect on that one patch? If it ends up being a problem, what will I need to do?
If when wet with water it all blends, then you should be okay.
Hi, forgot to ask this question in my last inquiry: If I have to sand some of the boards of my 2-year-old pine treated deck that has never been stained — boards that have white fuzzies (previously you told me to sand after applying cleaner and before brightner), does this mean I can only apply ONE coat of the semi-transparent RAD product because the wood has been sanded…and therefore I should wait a year before applying the second coat? And when I apply that second coat, can I just wash the deck with water before applying second coat in a year, or must I use cleaner? Thanks.
You always need the cleaner when reapplying. Just one coat if you power sanded.
Hi, I need to purchase some more stain and return a brush I never used for a refund. Want to visit your store. Hours of operation M-F for October and November? Thanks.
9am to 5pm October. 10am to 3pm November.
I stained a deck last year with semi-transparent stain after lightly sanding after stripping the old stain. It has held up really well.
Lately, I noticed some white streaking. And recently cleaned the gutters using a pressure washer. The cleaner caused white spots in the deck that I tried to carefully pressure wash off. This caused further white streaks.
Can I clean, brighten, and restrain over this? Also can I use wet on wet? That worked so well on another deck. Or do I only apply one coat?
Or do I have to strip and start over?
Thank you!
Post pictures.
I went ahead and cleaned the deck yesterday, I am wondering if I left the cleaner on too long. It actually began stripping the stain.
I also used some bleach in places because the cleaner was not getting off the green algae.
I used a pressure sprayer as I rinsed is when I noticed the stain coming up, so we used a stiff brush to get all off we could.
Please see before and after pictures below.
Please help. I think I need to go ahead and strip?
It does not look like you need to strip.
Thank you so much!
I want to stain a new pergola made of rough cut western red cedar and a deck made of treated yellow pine. Both were installed about 11 months ago. After I prep with cleaner and brightener. How many coats of semi-transparent stain should I apply?
One coat for the smooth wood and two for rough cut.
Are cedar pickets that are not pressure treated considered rough sawn, so no need to weather?
Cedar pickets can be smooth or rough sawn.
Once the first coat cures a second coat that is not applied wt on wet will not be able to soak in and adhere.
I have a pretty large boat dock (over water of course) installed 5 months ago with PT pine, and I am ready to stain. We are in central MO, Lake of the Ozarks. We like the coastal grey color but are trying to decide between semi-transparent and solid stain. I like the look of the solid as it seems similar to the composite wood we had wanted but could not justify the cost. We do not care about seeing the wood grain. Can you help me understand differences with the two types of stain? Questions: 1) does the solid wear as well as semi trans and does it work well on boat docks?2) will I be able to just clean/brighten next time and reapply or is other treatment needed? 3) we are first time stainers, is the solid harder to apply or use? 4) my husband measured the dock and it totaled just under 1400 sq ft. Can you please advise on how much materials we would need for prep materials and both semi and solid stains for this area?
1. They last and wear the same.2. Clean and recoat as needed.3. About the same for application.4. About 12-15 gallons of stain for two coats with the solid stain. One coat with semi-transparent for the new wood. About 9-10 Gallons. 2 RAD Brightener and 2 RAD Cleaners.
I have an unstained cedar deck that was installed over a year ago, so I’m planning to clean, brighten and stain. There is a large grill that I cannot move off the deck. Would it be possible to clean, brighten and stain half the deck on one day, move the grill once dry, and then finish the second half? Or do I risk introducing inconsistencies in color by dividing the job?
Best to do it all at once so it dries uniformly.
Thank you, and I have a follow-up question: based on the age of my deck (15 months, cedar, never stained), I need to powerwash before cleaning and brightening, and apply 2 coats of stain (semi-transparent cedar). Is that correct?
Yes.