Restore A Deck Solid Stain and Prep on the Same Day!
Restore-A-Deck Solid Color Wood Stain is an extremely durable synthetic-resin, opaque wood finish that helps protect against the damaging effects of water, fungi, and UV radiation on exterior wood surfaces. This V.O.C. compliant water-based product provides exceptional protection for nearly all exterior wood surfaces in a beautiful matte finish.
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain can be applied the same day as the prep. Make sure that all standing and visible water has dried off the surface after prep. Typically 2-4 hours at 70º F and less than 50% humidity.
Order Solid Stain Samples: RAD Solid Stain Samples
Download RAD Solid Stain Color Chart
Note: We would suggest downloading and printing the color chart by clicking the picture to the left. There is also a full version of the color chart picture below and in the product pictures above.
*Colors will vary based on full sun or shade.
WHERE TO USE
Restore-A-Deck Solid Color Wood Stain can be used on interior or exterior horizontal and vertical wood surfaces including: wood siding, log homes, decks, fences, outdoor wood furniture, pressure-treated and all other natural wood surfaces.
ADVANTAGES
- Both a solid stain and sealer for your wood
- Protects wood from damaging UV rays
- Available in pre-mixed solid color (opaque) finishes
- For use on all softwood types
- Dries to a flat finish
- Water-based, easy cleanup
- Low VOC content (
- For use on all exterior wood types and surfaces, not just decks
- Eco-Safe
- Easy to reapply as needed
- Does not promote mold/mildew growth
- Low VOC content, compliant with all US states and Canada
Restore-A-Deck Solid stain can be applied the same day as the prep. Make sure that all standing water has dried off the surface after prep. Typically 2-4 hours at 70º F and less than 50% humidity.
Note: Restore-A-Deck Solid Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood.
New Wood Note: New wood is not the same as “damp” wood and needs to weather and be prepped before staining. Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
Coverage:
RAD Wood and Deck Solid Stain applies at about 200-350 feet per gallon. Actual coverage varies depending on wood porosity.
Restore A Deck Solid Stain Application Tips
- How To Apply RAD Stain to Damp Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
- RAD Two-Toned Wood Decks
Color Chart Below is the RAD Solid Stain on Wood Samples
Available Solid Stain Colors: Espresso, Brown Oak, Classic White, Cypress, Desert Taupe, Coastal Gray
WARNING: This product can expose you to Ethylene oxide, which is known to the State of California to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm, and Cumene, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer. For more information, go to www.p65Warnings.ca.gov.
We recently moved into a house with an old beat up deck. we power washed and sanded the majority of the old stain (paint?) off. Would like to use solid stain so that we do not have to remove all this remaining stain. What products and in what order would you recommend? Thanks!
Hi, please make sure all the current solid stain on the wood is fully intact, not peeling, etc. If so, you can apply our solid stain over these intact solid stain remnants.
I have an old PT wood deck. I scraped, sanded old loose and peeling previous solid color stain, applied RAD cleaner, then brightener per directions. First coat of RAD solid stain is drying from overnite dew.
Deck has a wooden PT ramp which is very slippery in winter.
Can anti skid additive or sand be added during or after 2nd coat of RAD stain on the ramp?
In theory, it should work, but we have not tried adding any anti-skid additives to the solid stain.
I need to stain several hours after an evening rain. Can the wood be damp but with no standing water? Will this decrease it’s effectiveness?
Thanks!
Yes, it can be damp but not soaking or visible standing water for the first coat. When applying the second coat, the first coat needs to be fully dry. 1-2 hours.
Great thanks! Due to temp conditions, I may only be able to get in one coat this year and do the second coat in the spring. Would you advise against that at all? If not, what prep will I need to do in the spring for the sending coat? Thanks for your help!!
If you do that, you must do a light cleaning to remove any dirt, etc.
I am using RAD Paint Stripper, then Brightener. I will be ordering your solid stain which states it will cover 200-350 sq’ and it needs 2 coats. My deck is 520 sq’ and the rail (32″ x 80′) is 213 sq’ for a total of 733 sq’. Dividing this by an average of 275 sq’ of coverage I get 2.6 gallons per coat. Do you think I’ll really need 5 gallons for 2 coats?
Also, the Solid Stain instructions state to allow the 1st coat to dry completely before applying the 2nd. The dry time states 1-2 hours to the touch and complete curing in 24-48 hours. How long do I need to wait between coats?
Thank you!
For 2 coats on 733 sq feet, you will need 5-7 gallons. 1-2 hours between coats.
Thank you for the confirmation. I just read in the comments below that if I pressure wash the deck and get anything loose off, that I can cover what remains with your solid stain without the need of a stripper. Is this correct?
Thank you!
Yes. The key is to make sure that whatever old coating is on the wood is fully adhering and not failing.
Thanks for the quick response. One follow up question, I have an unopened jug of the RAD solid stain I ordered apx 2 years ago. What is the shelf life of unopened, and opened containers? Thank you.
1 year opened, 3 years unopened as long as it was stored where it could not freeze.
Hi,
I used the RAD solid stain coastal grey on our covered deck apx 4 years ago. I would like to reapply and put a fresh coat to cover some minor scratches. What is the suggested prep?
Thanks in advance.
Give it a good pressure wash with our RAD Deck Cleaner. The goal is to remove any dirt and loose stain. You can then cover the intact stain with a new coat.
I have an old pine deck that is worn – had a solid body stain on it previously that was beat up. I have used a deck cleaner & power washer, and started to sand with 80 grit to get the leftover loose chunks of stain off. I was originally going to use a different product and found RAD. Since I have cleaned/sanded – do I need to do any additional prep before applying RAD? some minor (but now sanded & scuffed) remnants of old stain still there. Please let me know what more would be needed or if I would be safe now to apply RAD. (photo of sanding progress – sanding is now complete)
If you apply our solid stain, you do not need to remove all of the old solid stain, but you do have to remove any peeling or loose stain. If the rest is fully intact, you can apply our solid stain over it.
Have a pine deck coated with an unknown solid stain that is starting to flake off. What would be the recommended prep to recoat with a RAD solid stain, such as Cypress?
Do I need to strip? Which stripper? Brighten after stripping? Or can I just pressure wash off any flaking areas and recoat?
We have access to a pressure washer.
The key is to remove all the loose and peeling stains from your wood, along with any dirt, grime, and mildew. Use our Restore-A-Deck Stripper and pressure washing. The goal is to remove any peeling stains, not all the old stains.
You can apply a new coat of our solid stain over your intact solid stain that is not peeling.
So no need to brighten after stripping?
Not needed in your scenario.
Is it necessary to do the clean and brightener steps before applying the solid stain if we’re applying to an aged but natural (never stained) wood deck that has been recently power washed?
Please post some pics of your prep so far.
I have a front porch 12x38ft facing north and a back porch 12x28ft facing south both covered by the roof of the house. They were stained with Behr premium water proofing all semi-transparent gray all in one stain and sealer 10 years ago rated for 6 years deck surface. This my first time restaining it. I ran a pressure washer over it without a cleaner and don’t appear to have any flaking left. There is is still quite a bit stain left. . The remaining stain appears to be still adhering to the wood. I want to use a solid stain this time for a consistent finish, and more protection for the wood. After reading up on it more. I am thinking I need to go over it with a all in one cleaner and brightner. I am trying not to sand or use a stripper. What are your recommendations? We like the coastal gray will it cover my remaining darker stain. I also read on your site where the stain goes on better with damp wood.
When applying a solid stain over thsi, you should strip and brighten for prep. It will not remove all the old stains but will remove any peeling or loose stains. Two coats of the gray will cover this darker color. Do not apply to damp wood when you still have old coatings that you are covering.
Can I use a regular garden pump sprayer to spray stripper and brightener? Or it has to be a “deck sprayer”?
For a 550 sq.ft deck, how many gallons should I need for a 2 coats application?
Any quality pump sprayer will work for the stripper and brightener. You cannot pump spray on a solid color deck stain. 5-6 gallons for the 2 coats.
Right, I was only thinking spraying the stripper and the brightener. For the stain, it would be a brush
Do you have all the products available in your store in Bloomfied Hills? We are neighbors…..I live in Rochester Hills
Yes, you can pick it up during business hours.
If I want to sand, should it be before stripper/brightener or after?
Thanks
Between. After stripping and the wood has dried. Brighten last.
Where can I find pictures showing the different colors?
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-and-deck-stain-photo-album
I purchased the coastal gray stain whereas my old deck had a color closer to the brown oak. I was excited to go to a lighter color thinking it wouldnt absorb so much of the heat but on the first sunny day after we were done (low 80s) the deck was hitting temperatures of 170-180 deg F near windows and 150 deg average throughout. For reference, my heat tolerance is about 130 where it gets too hot to walk on Way hotter than anything in the surrounding area, black grill, tarmac anything i could find was about 115-120. Any ideas on how to lower the temperature (besides going even lighter) or whats causing these temperatures in the first place?
A deck stain cannot lower the wood’s temperature. Lighter colors, in general, will retain less heat, but it is impossible to lower the actual temperature with a deck coating.
I purchased the Solid Stain “Espresso” and I plan to use a Paint Sprayer (HomeRight C800971 HLVP Sprayer. Do I have to thin the Stain and if so, to what extent? Thanks!
No, you cannot thin it. The solid stain can only be sprayed with an airless sprayer.
Can I benefit from using restore a deck products over another stain?
You can use the RAD Solid Stain over other stains but make sure you prep first by removing any loose peeling stain and dirt or grime.
I expect to be applying RAD Espresso solid stain in the next couple of days, and I will be putting two coats on my deck. According to what I’ve read in the stain instructions and from the discussion board, the second coat could be applied after a couple of hours from when the first coat went on. However, the instructions also say that the new surface will not be cured for walking for 24 to 48 hours. Does this mean I need to wait at least a day before applying the second coat? Unless I figure a way to suspend myself over the deck like Mission Impossible, I’m going to need to walk on the deck boards to brush and roll the second coat. Thanks.
No. You apply the second coat 2-4 hours after the first coat or as soon as it is dry to the touch. You can walk on it when dry to the touch.
rob-im considering the solid espresso stain. how do you like it? is it more black than brown in the shade? how about in the sun is it brown or gray? thanks
Which nap roller is best to use with the solid stain?
3/8″ to 1/2″ nap.
Hi, I have a 5 year old deck made with pressure treated pine. It has never been stained. I live in south Ga with lots of heat and humidity. I’m leaning toward your solid stain, as I have been told that is a better and longer lasting choice in this part of the world. Would you recommend the solid or semi-transparent in my situation? Thanks. Also, are there any photos of the different colors on decks?
Both are excellent and will last about the same so up to you if you want an opaque look or a semi-transparent that shows the wood grain.
Looks at the contests for pics.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-prep-stain-contest-2023
About 3 years ago I used the RAD semi transparent stain on my deck. It is time to stain my deck again and this time I want to go with the solid stain. Is it better to use the stripper for the previous semi transparent stain or would using the cleaner be better?
Also, I think I have seen some posts that say the brightener is not necessary when using the solid stain?
Strip and brighten would be the best and easiest for the prep. You need to brighten to neutralize.
Do you sell five gallons of stain
Only comes in single gallons.
I purchased a cabin with large deck where stain on floor is peeling. Unsure what prior product was used. What is your recommendation on how to strip and restain? I would like to keep the poles, railings untouched as the stain here to be in good condition.
Hi, you have a filming “varnish” type coating on your flooring. To fix this, it would be best to power sand it all off. Look at renting a drum sander and use no finer than 60-80 grit. Once sanded off, use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener kit for final prep. Stain with the RAD Stain in Light or Dark Walnut colors.
Would your product RAD Paintstrip be able to replace sanding in this situation?
Not here since it is “confined” with your wood walls, rails, etc. that do not need stripping.
If I decided to use your RAD Solid stain in Brown, could sanding then be avoided? What kind of prep would be needed for floors? Would still like to avoid doing anything to the cabin body and deck rails as they are in good condition. Thanks!
We would not suggest using a solid stain over this varnish. You should sand no matter what.
If I sanded the floors and then used the cleaner/brightener kit, would the cleaner/brightener damage the vertical surfaces (skirting around deck and rails already stained)? Do these all need to be tarped?
It shouldn’t as long as you prewet and rinse the over spray right away.
If there are boards that need to be replaced, is there anything that could be done to make the new boards blend into the rest of this deck? I’ve read your article stating that new wood needs to season before stain.
Would boards that have been purchased and stored in a shed 3+months, be considered aged/weathered enough?
I would like to complete this project in the next 2 weeks. But reading the articles, if you have to replace old boards with new, seems like I should wait another 3 months. Then I would clean, sand floors, brighten, stain the deck.
This a vacation rental property and would like to make things look nice despite having to perform maintenance on the deck. Seems like new board will really stand out and be unsightly.
You cannot make new wood match old wood with a semi-transparent stain. You cannot weather the wood inside a shed. It mus be installed, weathered, and then prepped.
So a solid stain on a deck with combo new/ old wood might be a better choice? If I am going for an uniform deck look and didn’t have time to wait to season new wood?
Another consideration is maintenance. This deck floor gets high traffic. Would you choose the RAD semitransparent vs RAD solid? Looking for ease of maintenance.
Yes, a solid stain would blend the wood better. You still have to season the new wood with a solid stain. You have no choice here.
Maintenance is the same between the two different types.
Looking at my pics, what color solid stain would you recommend to best match (for my floors)?
Espresso.
We had a brand new pressure treated deck that we let dry out before staining. We then used Valspar One-Coat Exterior Stain and Sealer to paint/stain it a dark gray. It’s been just over a year and it’s already fading and peeling. Can we use your product over top or do we need to sand or strip the current stain? This is a nightmare. We are in Coastal Georgia near the marsh and the heat is brutal. We only stayed the decking as the railing is vinyl. Thanks.
Best to strip off as much as possible before using our solid stain.
Is the coverage of 200-350 sq. ft per gallon for one coat or two coats? I am looking to stain an approximately 600 square foot deck (sanded / stripped) with railings and stairs.
200-350 sq. ft per gallon per coat. You would need about 5-6 gallons for the 2 coats.
I want to strip and paint 700+ square feet of decking and deck siding with RAD solid and semi-stains. The deck floor is old, previously stained (painted?) pressure-treated lumber that we purchased two years ago when someone was redoing their deck with TREX. The railing is new pressure-treated lumber that has been exposed to the elements without stain for two years. Our deck project got sidetracked two years ago due to injury, and we’re hoping to stain it before winter.
So many questions. . .
First, the deck has been power washed. Should we use the RAD paint and solid stain stripper for the deck floor and under deck siding?
We wanted to do a solid stain on the deck boards and a semi for the railing. We like the expresso, but the deck gets direct afternoon sun in the summer. Maybe the brown solid stain would be a better choice? Which transparent stain looks best with the brown solid stain? (Yes, we purchased samples, and yes, we’re still perplexed.)
The storage area underneath the deck has white vinyl siding on the sides and old deck wood on the front. We would love thoughts on using the white solid stain to try and match the vinyl siding versus using the same semi-transparent stain we choose for the railing.
Finally, if we can’t get everything done in one day (most likely), is it best to do the stripping and brightening on the same day and stain on a later date?
The attached photos are of a corner of the deck so you can see the used deck wood with new railings and of the enclosed area under the deck with the vinyl siding on the side and old deck wood on the front.
Confused yet? Thanks for any help you can give!
It will look “odd” to have only the new railings semi-transparent. The rest of the vertical wood has remnants of old solid stain/paint, so you would have to use the RAD Paint Strip on those if you want to use a semi-transparent on the below verticals and the rails on the steps.
The flooring will have to be stripped with the RAD Paint Strip to remove as much as possible of the different layers you have there before using the RAD Solid Stain.
👉Your best option is to use one solid stain color for all wood so it looks even due to the many issues you have going on and to have a consistent color when done. 👈
Can you please explain which sequence and products do I need to use to obtain long lasting results? The previous stain was a Behr Solid stain. Now I want to go with RAD’s solid espresso stain.
Thanks!
Use this kit while pressure washing for prep: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
The goal is to remove the loose and peeling solid stain. You can then cover the intact solid stain with the RAD Solid Stains.
I want to strip and paint 3,000 square feet of dock with RAD solid coastal gray. Docks are removed for winter. Dock material is 2 x 6 treated yellow pine twenty years old. Last stained in 2019 using Olympic Maximum semi-transparent stain. What do you recommend?
Hello,
Use these kits to prep:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
You do not have to remove 100% of the Olympic since you will be using the RAD Solid Stain. Remove all that is loose or peeling. You can then cover the intact stain with the RAD solid stain.
I would like to put two coats of coastal solid stain on my dock wood. What is the minimum time to allow between coats?
You can apply the second coat as soon as the first coat is dry. Could be 1-2 hours.
For the second coat of solid wood stain, can it be done a few days to a week after the first coat?
Best to do the second coat within a couple of days at the most.
Total of 850 sq footage and 2 coats thanks
For two coats of the solid stain, about 7-9 gallons for 850 sq feet.
I’m staining a 28’ x 24’ cabin with t1-11 siding. I’ve removed the old solid stain as best I can. Planning on 2 new coats of solid. Looking for an educated guess on total gallons-thanks
We need a total sq footage of the siding, not the sq footage of the cabin itself to help with this.
I’m looking for a very dark gray solid stain. is there any way mix the coastal gray with a black stain? Do you have any options?
Sorry but no, that is not possible.
Hi, I scraped my Dad’s deck, cleaned with soap and power washed it, then I scraped it again. It had previous coats of stain on it, the last one was a Wolman’s durastain, a solid stain, a lot of it pealed off in big pieces. It is an older deck but is solid. I plan to use your products, what are my next steps? Also, what is normal shipping time to Michigan?Thank you! Larry
Post some pics for prep help. We are in Michigan as well. Bloomfield Hills.
I am planning to use a solid deck stain for our 4 year old deck. It was previously stained with a semi-transparent stain (2 coats). Should I apply 2 coats of the solid stain and what application tools do you recommend for solid stain? I plan to use the cleaner and brightener before staining. Also, can solid stain be applied wet on wet or if I do 2 coats, do I have to wait for the first coat to dry?
2 coats of solid stain. Solid stain is not applied wet on wet. Must be dry for second coat. Use brushes and rollers for the solid stain.
Would it help to prime the deck prior to applying your solid stain? I’m thinking of applying Rust-o-leum Rocksolid Deck Start Wood Primer. What do you think?
No, never prime before using our solid stain.